New York Fashion week is finally here, and no slush, sleet nor snow could stop us.
Day one was opened with BCBG Max Azria’s twenty-fifth anniversary show (featured above). The show offered up the staples that have defined the “bon chic, bon genre” brand in new and fresh ways. Color blocking found itself in the form of gray, black, pink and turquoise graphic stripes. Asymmetrical hemlines were lengthened to cover the tops of knee high boots in a very apparent nod toward the ‘70’s. And fur was the mixed material of choice, adorning everything from outerwear to accessories (the fur clutch cum hand warmer was particularly clever.)
Jumping from the ‘70s to the ‘90s Richard Chai LOVE gave us a cleaned up version of grunge. The ‘90s influence was best epitomized by the effortlessness of layering t-shirts over thermals. Interesting textures helped update everything from a plaid mohair coat to a pair of sequin-adorned trousers. Hemlines were kept long on the few skirts found within in the sea of floral and striped patterned trousers. Clean-cut leather and shearling Andrew Marc jackets were a highlight of the show in an array of black, brown and bordeaux hues. The menswear was chockfull of slouchy trousers, striped suits and black boots. The pieces were made infinitely more interesting with some clever styling, a blouse tied around the waist to resemble a skirt for example.
Creatures of the Wind juxtaposed Eastern-inspired dress with Western tailoring and the outcome was gorgeous. The pieces that were most successful hung in balance between the two sides. The cuts were clean and the layering was kept simple. There was an effortlessness and elegance in the apparent restraint exercised (this best illustrated by the pairing of a black sparkly top with an otherwise prosaic mint green wool skirt.) The sure to be most coveted piece from the collection, an ankle length coat cinched at the waist in a blurred black and white pattern. The Creature of the show? Butterflies, seemingly blown in by the wind, landing on the lapels and buttons of a few different jackets.
Zimmermann’s show gave us the understanding of an Australian beatnik as inspired by her mother. Models were sent down the runway wearing metal “teddy” bow chokers, chunky patent brogues and sported slicked back hair, dark brows and even darker lips. Prints ranged from florals to collages of motorcycle parts but were all kept dark and moody in monochrome black and white. Floral printed dresses, skirts and tops were toughened up with cut outs that were lined in leather trim and then tied together with large, pearl metallic buttons. Contrasting to the tougher, stiffer pieces were cozy knits in the form of a sea foam green mohair vest and an oversized pink sweater with rows of knit balls. As with Creatures of the Wind the pieces that have us most excited are the coats, oversized and menswear inspired.