The City of Lights has seen gloomy weather during Men’s Fashion Week, and its patrons have in turn been weary. Stefano Pilati went for power dressing with a twist at Yves Saint Laurent. Leather pants and accents on black suiting was the staple. Similar to Costume National, shoes came with metallic bands. There was a downtown edge to collection; so much leather detailing that it felt a bit like stealthy kink.
Korean label Juun J. (which is sold at exclusive New York boutique Seven) showed an assortment of over-sized bell-shaped jackets in gray, black, taupe, and navy. The voluminous proportions came in wool, techno fabrics, and leather, complete with oversize pockets and skinny cummerbund-pants. Models also ported helmut hats, but the look was more Martian gladiator than terrestrial warrior (pictured).
Kris van Assche also kept it black with suits and separates that had an industrial Japanese fit to them. Collars contrasted in red and white, and details were understated such as quilting on coats, pleats, and a plaid segment of pieces. Slacks were baggy, but cropped and cuffed at the ankle. A beautiful cowl-neck, chunky ribbed gunmetal sweater with exposed zipper was tremendous.
As the rain continued, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus presented whimsical Victorian-cum-Brit ’60s pop looks, as only Japanese mastermind Rei Kawakubo could dream up. The feminine touches of floral prints, volants collars, and skirts, in addition to the rock-star wigs on the models, gave the clothes an androgynous je ne sais quoi.
But nothing surpassed the sensation that Riccardo Tisci causes with Givenchy. He manipulated the patriotic stars ‘n’ strips on black, orange, blue, red and army green skirts, suits, and leather coats. Some were studded, a few were covered in peacock shaded paillettes, while other pieces were dusted in black star cut-outs. The “don’t mess with me” Givenchy boys boasted septum piercings. Except no one was paying attention because the model roster for this cast was insane!
But the craziness didn’t stop there: Merkure Magazine hosted a launch at Chacha Club and biannual international magazine, Guapo, attracted legions of models (including the godly Francisco Lachowski) to Club 1979 for free booze. But the big bang, an impromptu Givenchy after-after party, took place at Silencio, where Josh Wood Productions hosted "Pacino at Silencio," alongside LadyFag and Catherine Baba. A riot at the door meant that you had to be friggin’ Madonna to get inside, but once there, it was well worth it. Vincent Cassel, the Dsquared2 entourage, makeup queen Pat McGrath, and others enjoyed major beats from DJ Honey Dijon and Milan’s Marcelo Burlon. By 6am, the dance floor was still active, putting many out of commission for the next day.