Hedi Slimane is certainly not shy about switching things up over at YSL. After announcing that he would design the iconic French fashion house from Los Angeles instead of its Parisian headquarters, Stefano Pilati’s successor intends to change the brand’s name from Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent Paris. Bold move.
Thanks to an extraordinarily forthcoming Tamara Mellon (formerly of Jimmy Choo, currently anti Jimmy Choo,) the word on the street is that the man for which the shoes were named never actually designed anything. Now, Mellon has publicly called him a “cobbler”. (Burn!) Mellon, who departed Jimmy Choo to focus on her own brand, continues to air her dirty laundry for our horrified amusement (in interviews, a book, and excerpts published everywhere.) So what other fashion feuds gathered us in the schoolyard to watch?
But a year ago, respected fashion writer Cathy Horyn disrespected Oscar de la Renta in her review of his spring 2013 collection, calling de la Renta a “hotdog,” (in the surfer lingo sense of the word, meaning a showman, obviously.) A seething ODLR retorted with a full-page ad in WWD, calling Horyn a “stale, 3-day old hamburger.” The two have sort of since made up.
That time Keifer Sutherland head butted Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough at the Met Ball in 2009, breaking the designer’s nose. McCollough was supposedly defending the honor of Brooke Shields, who Sutherland had bumped into. Let’s assume Sutherland will never attend one of Proenza Schouler’s shows.
Hedi Slimane versus everyone ever. A few of his grievances include: making sure Cathy Horyn wasn’t invited to his debut show at YSL Yves Saint Laurent Saint Laurent because of comments she made in 2004, and cutting ties with retailer Colette (and losing hundreds of thousands of wholesale business for one season alone) over those AIN’T LAURENT without Yves tees. More to come, probably.
Nicolas Ghesquière v. Balenciaga. When the designer left his post at Balenciaga, he broke his contracts by speaking ill in an interview with System magazine. Now the house is seeking about $7 million in damages. But who knows, maybe we’ll see him turn up at Louis Vuitton, and this will all be history.
Damn, Jessica Chastain. You are really giving it in this new campaign for YSL’s "Manifesto" fragrance line. I’m glad you stopped with all that ombre nonsense and went back to your fiery-coiffed roots. (Yes, red is her natural hair color. She calls it her "badge of honor.") Posing like a true model-turned-actress à la Milla Jovovich, your fierceness is just as accolade-worthy as your work in films like The Help, Zero Dark Thirty and even The Tree of Life. (Although I still find that movie totally confusing. Come on, you do too.)
Decked out in all-black-everything by YSL creative director Hedi Slimane, I’m feeling this new moody vibe you’ve got going on. One question: was your subtle pout inspired by Lana Del Rey?
See more images here.
Raf Simmons stepping down from Jil Sanders to make way for the flesh and blood Jil Sanders isn’t the only fashion house shake up this week. There were rumors that Simmons would take the reins at YSL from Stefano Pilati, but they denied them. Now, new reports are beginning to trickle out of the fashionsphere that Hedi Slimane, whose spent the last few years focusing on photography, will be taking over YSL. It’s an amazing, but odd choice.
Known for his revolutionary work creating skinny suits at Christain Dior, Slimane has only designed womenswear in limited quanities. Compare some of the dresses and skirts you see coming down the runway to the shirts and pants at mens shows and you can clearly see, it’s a whole different world.
AFP reports that the Slimane has already signed a contract and that the official announcement will be made sometime in the next several days during Paris Fashion Week. "He is becoming the new director at Yves Saint Laurent," one industry insider told them.
It will be a big return for Slimane if this ends up coming to fruition. He worked for YSL on their menswear from 1997 to 2000. Fingers crossed for him to bring something new and incredible to women’s clothing, and you know, create a line for Target or H&M so that normal people can afford the looks.
My Saturday morning was dedicated to one thing and one thing only: Get that tote. Yves Saint Laurent’s worldwide distribution of their Manifesto booklet and accompanying tote only happens twice a year, and given the fact that only 2,000 were available per city, with Los Angeles participating for the first time, I knew I had to have a game plan.
After researching the extensive list of Manifesto distribution locations, my strategy was to select a place that I knew was going to be filled with YSL-illiterate passersby: the Hollywood Walk of Fame. Foot traffic here is primarily made up of tourists and unemployed actors dressed up in shoddy superhero costumes, so something told me that completing a survey to receive a screen-print bag from an European brand wasn’t exactly top of mind for them. I was right.
While meticulously scanning the crowded sidewalk in front of Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, I began to spot a few people nonchalantly carrying the tote like it was just another Hollywood freebee. Before I got flustered and tried to bribe someone to give me theirs (fashion people do the darndest things), I finally spotted the YSL street team, totes aplenty. After completing a quick survey that included questions like “What do you know about the Yves Saint Laurent brand?” and “How did you hear about the YSL Manifesto?” I was handed a tote and sent off on my merry way.
Inside the gold screen-printed bag was the spring/summer 2011 booklet covered in black construction paper, barring the brand’s upside-down logo. The first page includes an excerpt of an interview with YSL creative director Stefano Pilati, which you can see in full here.
The next pages are covered with a collage of reviews for the season’s collection, pulled from various publications:
I love this shot of campaign models Will Westall and Arizona Muse in the brand’s delicious new eyewear:
The booklet isn’t stapled or fastened, so pulling individual pages for your inspiration board is a breeze:
If you weren’t able to track a bag down this weekend, they’re already starting to pop up on eBay. Or you can just peep the digital version of the SS11 Manifesto here and use my stalking strategy next season.
If you’re well-versed in all things Yves Saint Laurent, then you know all about Manifesto, the luxury French fashion house’s seasonal publication featuring a collection of exclusive interviews and imagery curated by YSL creative director Stefano Pilati. And you certainly know about the guerilla distribution of the limited edition tote bag that carries it. For the next eight consecutive seasons, 2,000 lucky bystanders on the streets in major cities will be handed the covetable Manifesto tote, along with a large format look book that features model Arizona Muse shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.
Starting March 5, distribution will take place in Paris, New York, London, Milan, Tokyo, Hong Kong, and, for the first time ever, Los Angeles—which is sure to spawn a number of hopeful pedestrians in front of YSL’s Beverly Hills storefront.
If you’re not lucky enough to snag a tote, you can still download the complete SS11 YSL Manifesto here on March 5.
Just back from the menswear shows in Europe and feeling very inspired. I started in Florence for Pitti Uomo, made my way to Milan, and then on to Paris. I even managed a week of R&R in Greece, which left me feeling centered and ready for work again. It’s a good thing, too, because the videos I am about to present to you took blood, sweat, and tears to download! Needless to say, I’m not the most tech savvy blogger, but I am working on it. (Move over BryanBoy!) Before I left, I invested in a new Flip camera so I could bring a little bit of the collections back home to share. So, without further adieu—and with apologies for my unsteady hand—here are some of my favorite snippets from the shows.
Dolce and Gabbana’s washed whites and—of course—a legendary performance by Annie Lennox…
A moment from the Prada show. Such an important collection!
The finale at Prada. Because I loved the show so much, I decided to give you a double dose.
Light in construction, dark in mood at Dior Homme.
Summer chic at Hermes.
So many good ideas at Louis Vuitton—the layers, the colors, Scott Campbell’s tattoo prints.
A parade of genius at Dries Van Noten.
I loved YSL. A retro feeling with a directional edge.
Lanvin’s romantic rebels.
And last but not least, a new and exciting collection from Raf Simons.
Stefano Pilati’s latest collection for Yves Saint Laurent has me feeling very inspired. These were new clothes with modern silhouettes and proportions we haven’t seen before. Sure, there were references, particularly to the 40s shapes I’ve been seeing everywhere this season, but at YSL they were shaken up and transformed into something entirely new and directional. There were high-waisted shorts that flared out paired with stacked sandals and cut away vests, and a leopard print cumberbund that cinched at the waist and tucked into pants.
Pilati gave us a new way to think about the way we dress. That’s what fashion’s all about right?
‘Tis Resort (or Cruise, or Pre-Spring, depending on what you prefer to call it) season, which means fashion houses are highlighting soon-to-ship deliveries of late-summer appropriate styles. While most designers—save for the likes of Galliano for Dior, de la Renta, and Lagerfeld for Chanel—tend to avoid runway productions for this in-between season, sites like Style.com and Coutorture have taken to publishing Resort look books, putting the mini-collections nearly on par with Spring and Fall. In reality, most Pre-Spring collections are a continuation of fall trends, though in some cases they can shed light on what consumers can expect for Spring. While Alexander Wang went for suburban chic, many other designers, like Christopher Bailey for Burberry Prosum, have debuted decidedly urban, sleek resort wear for 2011.
Meanwhile, far less sidewalk-ready were the bandeau tops and bare midriffs at Zero + Maria Cornejo and YSL (the latter topped looks off with demure black turbans). Vena Cava opted for a similarly flesh-friendly approach with a mesh tank styled with nothing underneath. As I’ve noted in the past, this doesn’t necessarily mean Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai are embracing nipples for mid-season. Rather, as Evianna Hartman of Bodkin clarified back at SS10 fashion week, most often exposed nipples on a runway are there merely to highlight the garment, not to sanction going sans bra.