Insta-Critic: Extreme Skirts at Yohji Yamamoto

Today in Paris, Yohji Yamamoto showed a collection of dramatic poof skirts and ball gowns the city of lights won’t soon forget. Their massive scale required scaffolding so involved that even the final designs felt like works-in-progress. Given the exposed underpinnings here, the studied polish of those jauntily perched fedoras made for a delicious bit of styling irony. Is it wearable? Not if you have a doorway to walk through. But as far as instagram-worthy runway moments go, the master of avant-garde tailoring is very hard to beat.

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Skirt drama at Yamamoto

 

 

A #pfw runway like no other

#yohjiyamamoto #pfw

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Corsetry and chaos

 

パリコレ。Yohji Yamamoto。感動。 #hotei #paris #pariscollection #yohjiyamamoto #fashion #fashionweek

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A cape coat amidst the runway turbulence

Visual Xanax: Unwind with Yohji Yamamoto

Does Wednesday have you feeling tied up?

Find solace in knowing you aren’t alone. Take those ties and use them to your advantage… an untangle here, a re-tie there. Even the messiest of knots can be worked out, and your posture (and attitude) make all the difference.

Photo: Clothes by Yohji Yamamoto

Y-3 Slays the Sneaker Wedge Game With New Styles

Hot off Yohji Yamamoto’s announcement that he is working on his first feature film, the Adidas Y-3 designer has rolled out a new selection of slick wedge sneakers to remind us all that Y-3 was no doubt an early adopter of the phenomenon. 

The minimalist Sukita styles for fall/winter 2012 come in black ($490) and grey ($510), and are both still less expensive (and possibly more practical) than those blogger-crazed Isabel Marant kicks. The darker colors are also more forgiving for those that spend their days trotting through the city. So, everyone. 

Look out for the wedges when they hit stores nationwide in August. (Long-lead, yes, but we like to keep true Fashioneers ahead of the game.)

Photos courtesy of Y-3

Inside Yohji Yamamoto’s First Exhibition in Israel

Yohji Yamamoto is a man of many firsts. The Y-3 designer pioneered the wedge sneaker (yes, there was a time before Isabel Marant’s Bekket and Willow kicks), is as candid as can be in his premier documentary, and is set to direct his first feature film. Now, to celebrate the 60th anniversary of formal relations between Japan and Israel, the prolific talent is the subject of Design Museum Holon’s first-ever solo exhibition. 

This month through October, visitors at Holon’s iconic Ron Arad-designed building can view a retrospective of Yamamoto’s best work, which was conceived by the designer and chief curator Galit Gaon. 80 avant-garde pieces of men’s and women’s garments, including pieces from his first collection in 1977 and memorable looks from his ongoing Adidas Y-3 collaboration, have been unveiled to the Israeli community in an effort to expand their sartorial horizons. 

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"I think eventually what we’re trying to do here is open up the discussion of how you teach people to choose better," Gaon explains to Interview. "After seeing this exhibition, maybe the next time you go select something from a minimal shop you might think again about the details. You might see something else. You might re-look/re-feel the texture and different process of choosing." See more looks here.

The Yohji Yamamoto exhibition is on display now through October 2012 at Design Museum Holon (Pinhas Eilon St. 8, Holon, Israel 58459).

 

 

NYFWeekend: Jason Wu Shines, Alex Wang Stuns

The past 72 hours have been filled with crazy fashion, crazy parties and crazy weather. Amidst watching brave, stiletto-sporting show-goers stumble through Nemo’s slippery slush, I managed to catch some killer shows, presentations and ragers. From Jason Wu and Alex Wang’s celeb-heavy front rows to Chloe Sevigny and Opening Ceremony’s all-girl protest at St. Mark’s Church, here’s what went down. 

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After hitting up Vanessa Bruno’s crazy-packed pop-up shop opening on Thursday night, fashion fiends flocked to Scoop NYC in Meatpacking to toast superstar stylist Cher Coulter’s new collection for AG Jeans‘ Stylist Series. In addition to appearances by Elizabeth Olsen and Liberty Ross, the event featured music by DJ Ms Nix, Tattly temporary tattoos and an AG Stylist Series photo booth. 

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Friday’s highlight was no doubt Jason Wu’s stunning show at 583 Park Avenue, which was attended by Alison Williams of Girls (she’s really fashion-y these days, huh?), Jaime King, Anna Wintour, Miroslava Duma, Stephanie Seymour and tons more fashion faces. As a possible salute to his top client, First Lady Michelle Obama,  the designer’s fall 2013 range was filled with ladylike pieces with just the right amount of edge. Highlights included a luxe assymetrical evening dress in deep red, intricately embellished sleeveless dress that had the FLOTUS written all over them and lots of fur, which, surprisingly, seems to be this season’s strongest trend.

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On Saturday, indie style star Chloë Sevigny took over St. Mark’s Church for her fifth Opening Ceremony collection. Inspired by "the inhibition of youth the follies of fashion of teenagers" and the ’60s protest movements, the exclusive presentation featured a range of badass female artists like Lissy Trullie and Kim Gordon (yes, the Kim Gordon) showing off the designer’s ever-retro wares while performing body-swaying tunes. Standout looks like ditsy patterned dresses, leather midi skirts, motif tights, platform sneakers and seamless bodysuits in collaboration with Emilio Cavallin stole the show. VIPs sipped SVEDKA Vodka backstage.

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Over at Alexander Wang, the designer’s exciting appointment as creative director of Balenciaga inspired a packed house filled with a who’s who of fashion and music insiders. Front-rowers included Carine Roitfeld, Emmanuelle Alt, Anna Wintour, Terry Richardson, Liberty Ross (who’s certainly making her presence known this season), Joan Smalls, A$AP Rocky (this season’s hip hop fashion fixture) and Zoe Kravitz. Not front row? Bloggers and, sadly, Bon Qui Qui. As for the collection, texture was of the essence, as was fall 2013’s omnipresent fur. Offering the ultimate IDGAF formula, the above look featured flat dress shoes, chunky socks, a knee-length leather skirt and a fur hoodie with a hole for your ponytail. Only Wang. 

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Sunday belonged to Yohji Yamamoto’s latest Y-3 collab for Adidas, which featured a primarily black-and-grey palette punctuated by neon orange and green. As expected, Adidas kicks anchored the show and added the perfect punch of color to otherwise muted looks. Yamamoto’s unmatched layering technique and unique perspective on proportion was seamlessly represented throughout the menswear and womenswear range. 

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The weekend capped with supermodel Anja Rubik’s saucy soiree at The Darby, which was attended by the likes of Brad Goreski and an incognito Amanda Bynes. Cult-cool designers like Cushnie et Ochs stayed glued to the dance floor as DJ Sam French and artist/DJ/stylesetter Theophilus London spun hip hop beats by Kendrick Lamar, Rihanna, Sisqo ("The Thong Song" really got Rubik moving) and Kanye West. Grammys who?

Introducing the DVD Package for Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 Documentary

Earlier this year, we told you about designer Yohji Yamamoto’s revealing documentary, entitled Y3 Presents Yohji Yamamoto: This is My Dream. While the Theo Stanley-directed film’s actual release date was under wraps for some time, it’s now been revealed that the DVD is set to hit the adidas diffusion line’s stores nationwide next week – and the package is impressive.

Encased in a box with a matte black finish that mirrors Yamamoto’s minimalist aesthetic, the DVD includes a Y-3 branded aroma candle with a custom fragrance to commemorate the 10-year anniversary of adidas and Yohji Yamamoto’s collaborative work. The soy wax candle is handmade in France and combines scents of patchouli, lavender and grapefruit.

The limited-edition DVD package is priced at $95 at only 3,000 copies will be released globally, so run to your nearest Y-3 store in NYC or LA next week to secure your copy.

Photo: Courtesy of Adidas

Watch Yohji Yamamoto’s Revealing Documentary Trailer

The highly-anticipated forthcoming documentary on Yohji Yamamoto, entitled Yohji Yamamoto: This is My Dream, is scheduled for release this spring. Directed by Theo Stanley, the film follows the designer as he prepares the SS10 collection for Y-3—his diffusion line with Adidas. Known for his avant-garde approach to design and philosophy, we’re all curious to see how much of his inimitable thought process Yamamoto is willing to reveal. Given the doc’s new trailer, we’re in for a candid treat.

In the 2-minute clip, he gives us such memorable phrases like “The dark side of life is attractive to me forever,” and “I’m not interested in fashion, generally. I’m just interested in how to cut the clothing.” Another interesting moment is when he soberly states, “I have my own judge in me. And long pause he’s always judging me,” as he pounds the table with an imaginary gavel. Watch the full trailer after the jump.

Video source: Think Contra

Yohji Yamamoto & Adidas Celebrate 10 Years of Y-3 at Paris Men’s Fashion Week

This past Sunday, Y-3 threw down big, hosting a bash at Paris’ historic creative/event space, Maison des Métallos. The special celebration marked ten years of the stylish sportswear label, a popular collaboration between famed Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas, which simultaneously presented its men’s autumn/winter 2011-12. The men’s collection was inspired by the concept of escape, which translates, apparently, into various shades of army green. The drab hue was contrasted with pops of Japanese prints on a variety of bomber jackets, button-down shirts, knitted leggings, and sarouel bottoms. Models paced on a treadmill installation in front of swirling projections of country roads and valleys, trying to, er, escape.

As guests mingled and toasted the end of fashion week, Y-3 screened Theodore Stanley’s documentary This Is My Dream, which traces a candid Yamamoto through his creative process in designing the new Y-3 collection, from start to production. The label also held an exposition commemorating a decade of Adidas for Yohji Yamamoto footwear. Y-3 is slated to present both the women’s and men’s collections in New York this February.

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YSL & McQueen Indulge Inner Cinephile for SS10

In seasons past, numerous designers have forgone traditional collection presentations in favor of short films or multimedia installations — and the trend has only gained steam given the recession’s recent squeezing of fashion houses’ resources. So it’s not exactly a shock that heavyweights like Alexander McQueen and Stefani Pilati of YSL are sitting out SS10 presentations (which just wrapped in Milan and kick off in Paris today) this season, and instead supplying films in place of shows. McQueen enlisted fashion photog David Sims to help him create a film about a tortured artist (in some frames clad solely in tightie whities), and, though it’s obviously intended to disturb, the end result feels more like The Strangers than The Shining.

As for Pilati’s cinematic offering, which follows last season’s short film (starring Michael Pitt and shot by Inez & Vinoodh): he’ll present a film directed by French director and actor Samuel Benchetrit. The film stars Benchetrit’s son, Jules, and, according to Women’s Wear Daily, will be accompanied by “a mini fashion show after the screening at YSL’s Rue d’Artois showrooms.” Sadly, it doesn’t look as though Yohji Yamamoto or Gareth Pugh, who are both also watching men’s fashion week from the sidelines, have any plans for a similar filmic endeavor this season.