At day two of Milan’s men’s fashion week, Tomas Meier showed off his knack for constructing that perfectly tailored leather jacket at Bottega Veneta‘s early morning show. Black and midnight blue reigned supreme at Emporio Armani‘s modern cool event, where models sauntered down the runway in luxury cloaks with fedoras, sleek modern leather coats, and impeccable silk suits. Ermanno Scervino was all about argyle, intricate and chunky knitwear, paired with simple gray and blue blazers.
When it comes to smart, luxurious dressing, Salvatore Ferragamo‘s creative director, Massimiliano Giornetti, continues to prove that he is one of the best. Precisely fitted wool double-breasted suits, subtly ombré polished shoes, elegant winter coats in auburn, ash, and a gray, had a classic yet sophisticated ease. A double-breasted gray Astrakhan coat and a pair of merlot-hued velvet dinner jackets with piping turned a few heads, for sure. The new Ferragamo man doesn’t need to flaunt his affluence with flash. He’s too busy to, anyway.
Vivienne Westwood (pictured, top) got political, with a David Attenborough-inspired collection called The Frozen Planet. "If our leaders would admit the fact of climate change and conduct their polices from that perspective, then we might have a chance. We have ten years at the most to stop it," Dame Westwood stated, in an urgent message on the global warming crisis. Models donned iced-over beards and hair wearing a range of plaid, strip and tartan wool suits, patchwork, bright colors, and asymmetrical tops in blue, forest greens, and heather. The label also announced that it has collaborated with sustainable tee-shirt manufacturer ANVIL, to create a limited edition of shirts for men’s week, available on YOOX.com to support GreenUp!
Missoni had a young and contemporary interpretation of its iconic knitwear, while Trussardi went ’70s glam, replete with flared proportions, wide lapels, and a funky color scheme. Miuccia Prada spun up some fanciful military chic on her star-studded runway in Via Fogazzaro. But with names like Émile Hirsch, Willem Dafoe, Gary Oldman, Adrien Brody traipsing down the red catwalk, who could focus on those tremendous clothes? Thom Browne‘s Moncler Gamme Bleu looked like ski astronauts exploring some blizzard-doomed tundra, and Italo Zucchelli incorporated exotic leathers and croc into Calvin Klein Collection’s über-modernistic DNA.
But some of the top picks from the second day of shows came by way of footwear. From designers Cesare Paciotti to Alberto Moretti, and Swiss label Bally, all presented a variety of winners. Giuliano Fujiwara re-worked brogues boots in sturdy nubuck with rubber soles and colorful techno embellishments. Arfango’s Alberto Moretti relied on high-glam and artisanal craftsmanship for his winter 2013 collection. A series of loafers and ankle boots were adorned with either Swarovski crystals, velvet detailing, or metallic studs, which should give the intrepid dapper man some great evening options.
Bally co-directors Micheal Herz and Graeme Fidler whipped up some stupendous calf skin moccasins in primary colors and waxed/water-proof suede boots. A Bally emblem bag in toffee-brown leather and the signature Scribe collection screamed urbane working man. Bally also introduced a prototype interactive display system that will be installed in select boutiques, enabling shoppers to custom-design their dream footwear. The label’s ready-to-wear options had some awesome quilted outwear, which we inspected over a refreshing glass of, what else, Prosecco.
Last but not least was Cesare Paciotti‘s ever-growing shoe empire. After successfully launching the Steve McQueen-inspired Madison 380 NYC line, composed of understated classic options, the brand is expanding from suede to patent leather and shoes with a bit more edge. The best boots seen so far can be found here: Fur-lined industrial leather stivali, with Paciotti dagger insignia and exposed zippers and studs that were very of the moment, a bit indulgent, but rugged.
Anna Dello Russo at the Ferragamo show.