Runway Rundown: All The Best From Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear, Resort and Fall ’18 Couture

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Valentino Fall ’18 Couture

 

A lot has happened on the runway over the last few weeks. There was Paris Couture Week; before that, some designers showed their Spring ’19 collections; and in between all of those, there was Resort (which we don’t usually care for, but this season had one great moment). So, we don’t blame you if you’ve missed some things. And because we love you, we’re going to be your fashion fairy godmothers, and round up everything you need to see if you haven’t already (and if you have, all of the amazing things you should look at again). Below, our favorite runway moments — or, as we like to call them, the only ones worth mentioning.

 

Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear:

Spring can be really boring. I mean, florals, for Spring? Groundbreaking. No, but seriously, it can really hard to re-invent the wheel when that wheel is a limited range of flowing skirts, mini dresses and caftans. That’s why our favorite brands threw out seasonal rules altogether and did things like patent leather and hoodies.

 

Alyx

 

For Matthew Williamson’s first ever runway show for his four-year-old brand Alyx (or, as its named now, 1017 Alyx 9SM for Williamson’s birthday and the location of his first studio at 9 Saint Marks), the designer went all out. Instead of debuting a ton of cliche Spring pieces, like bathing suits and floral dresses, the collection looked almost as if it could’ve been for Fall. With a post-apocalyptic vibe perfect for our current political climate, Willliamson’s pieces looked like a uniform for, albeit incredibly fashionable, anti-fascist soldiers. Sign me up.

 

Vetements

 

VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019 – WATCH THE OFFICIAL VIDEO – LINK IN THE PROFILE

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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For fashion world darling Demna Gvasalia’s turn on the runway, the designer paid homage to his home country, Georgia. Gvasalia casted the show with all Georgian teenagers, and took the opportunity to teach fashion insiders about the current political turmoil happening in the region. In fact, each piece from the collection comes with a giant bar code, that once scanned with your iPhone, will open an app that features facts about the country. And as much as I want to hate Vetements, I wish I could afford to pay $1,000 for a sweatshirt.

 

Kenzo

 

Prints, prints, prints. #KENZOSS19

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Kenzo S/S ’19 was all about prints. Gingham, checks, polka-dots, snakeskin — you name it, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon designed it, and styled it together. The whole maximalist, should-be-clashing-but-instead-looks amazing thing has always been Kenzo’s vibe, but each season Lim and Leon seem to do it better and better. After last year’s Spring collection, I really thought the brand had reached their peak, but this season even makes me want to wear color.

 


 

Resort:

Honestly, I shouldn’t have even included Resort on this list, since it’s really not a list – it’s just Miu Miu.

 

Miu Miu

 

If Miu Miu’s Resort ’19 collection was bad, it truly wouldn’t have even mattered. With a casting like the one they had at The Regina Hotel in Paris last week, including Rowan Blanchard, Kaia Gerber, Uma Thurman, Chloe Sevigny and Naomi Campbell, no one would have even noticed the clothes. But we did, because the collection was perfect. Kind of preppy, but with a race car driver-meets-Valley of the Dolls-meets-Maui sort of look, the Miu Miu collection was what Miuccia Prada still does best, even after all these years: it was fun, it was free, and somehow, between all the clashing prints and furry heels, it was still subtle.

 


 

Fall ’18 Couture:

Couture is all about fantasy; it’s about staring at beautiful clothes you desperately want but have absolutely nowhere to wear them to. When it came to this year’s Couture Week, our favorite designers didn’t let us down, delivering some of the dreamiest collections we’ve ever seen grace the runway. I mean, Kaia Gerber at Valentino. Enough said. But don’t worry, we’ll say more anyway.

 

Chanel

 

For his Fall ’18 Chanel couture show, Karl Lagerfeld paid homage to Paris. Honestly, everything the guy does is good, and the fact that he’s still able to send tweed two-pieces down the runway, and make them look good — well, that alone, proves he’s a genius. In addition to his love of Paris, the designer built this collection around what he calls the “high profile” — long skirts that unzip to show thigh-bearing minis underneath. “You can wear it zipped down when you visit your banker, no?” he told Vogue. “And zipped up when you see your lover after!”

 

Valentino

 

At this point, there’s no way you haven’t seen at least one photo from the Valentino couture show. Images of Kaia Gerber in her amazing beehive have literally been flooding the internet. But for once, the talk is true and all the hype is worth it. The Valentino collection was the MVP of Couture Week — and maybe all of 2018. Obviously, Pat McGrath and Guido Palau killed it with the beauty; but the collection itself was completely breathtaking. I mean, the models looked like actual angels floating down the runway in their billowy gowns and floral headdresses.

 

Fendi

 

 

Fendi always knows what they’re doing. For their couture collection, the brand took a step back from the logomania that’s taken over their last few seasons, and created a ’60s-inspired ode to fur. While a lot of the industry has vowed to go fur free, Lagerfeld has doubled down with Fendi. Though the collection included bits of actual fur, it was more about the ways in which he treated other fabrics that created a sort of gaudy (but in a good way), glam feel that I totally could’ve imaged Liz Taylor or Anne Welles in.

 

Margiela

 

Discover highlights from our Autumn-Winter 2018 ‘Artisanal’ Collection designed by @jgalliano: The nomadic idea of taking life on the road is conveyed in abundant layering where garments interweave and mutate. #maisonmargiela #artisanal #artisanalartistry – Music: “Unchained Melody” Written By: Alex North & Hy Zaret Courtesy Unchained Melody Publishing LLC – Black Saturn, Nicholas Hill, Luciano Ugo Rossi, Glenn Herweijer; Ben Sumner. KPM Music When The Clock Stops, Nikky French. KPM Music Breakacuda,Benjamin Medcalf. Anger Music Circus Caravan MYMA. Justement Music Flight Remembered, Nicholas Hill, Glen Herweijer, Ben Sumner. KPM Music The Arrival, David James Caton, Harry Valentine. Anger Music Etude in e major, Frederic Chopin, Tolga Kashif, KPM Music Warhammer, Darren Mudge. Anger Music Arrangement : Jeremy Healy

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Galliano went all Fifth Element for his latest Margiela Artisanal collection (he’s too cool for couture, natch). Using VR headsets and iPhones as accessories, the designer sent a retro-futuristic, technology-obsessed collection down the runway. And hey, since people are already attached to their phones, physically adhering them to our outfits seems like a natural next step. That, or we’re going to war with aliens and Galliano is designing the outfits.

 

Viktor and Rolf

 

To celebrate their 25 years together, Viktor & Rolf decided to take 25 of the brand’s most iconic looks, and update them for their Fall ’18 couture collection. That update meant turning everything white and covering them in Swarovski crystals. Though I’ve always been a fan of Viktor & Rolf, there’s literally nothing more perfect than the bed dresses they originally created for their Fall ’05 collection — or, at least, I thought, until I saw this season’s iteration, complete with white bedazzled pillows and a down evening dress. Sigh. This is what dreams are made of.

 

Photos & Video: Instagram

Armani’s New Couture Line Perfect for 2011 Space Travel

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In a marked departure from Giorgio Armani’s career-length homage to neutral colors, clean lines, and elegant symmetry, the latest couture collection from Armani Privé is more suited for a high-fashion Jane Jetson. Leaving no space-age fabric behind, Armani crafted unconventional silhouettes with metallic silks, reflective organza, and metal mesh–materials you’d be hard pressed to find in any previous Armani collection, ever.

The looks were largely monochromatic, with knee length dresses over leggings, topped by metal hats resembling various shapes of flying saucers or mesh fencing veils. Many of the floor-length gowns feature a waist-level cut-out, exposing a jolt of complementing or contrasting color–a similar look to the surrealist Viktor & Rolf gowns from last winter.

Expected to appear at the show’s close in a space suit and helmet, Armani attributed the line’s inspiration to an unusual piece of jewelry he found in Milan, as evidenced by the show’s backdrop: giant faceted gemstones in the same jewel tones seen throughout the line. While Armani’s latest might not be terribly wearable, we appreciate his devotion to a cohesive theme, and if we ever complete a mission to Mars, we know exactly where we’ll be shopping for the trip.

Visionaire 59 “Fairytale”: For the Artist with Childlike Tendencies

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Since their start in 1991, art and fashion publication Visionaire‘s limited-release issues have been revered for their wildly creative packaging and famous contributors who span every imaginable corner of the art and fashion worlds. Some gems are the “Fashion” issue encased in a Louis Vuitton envelope, the “Sound” issue comprised of 12″ records featuring over 100 artists, and the “Solar” issue complete with black-and-white images that transform into color when exposed to direct sunlight. The cost to covet a numbered edition from recent years ranges from $100 to $800, while archived versions will set you back in the thousands. Number 59 of their literary art concept is “Fairytale”—a collection of children’s books created by the likes of Kirsten Dunst, James Franco, Viktor & Rolf, and Björk, and inspired by the work of Dutch photographer duo Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. As Visionaire states it, the issue “offers a meditation on innocence and childlike creativity.” Bound by a classic bookstrap, it’s the perfect gift for the book collector with an imagination.

To experience the issue and grab a copy before it’s too late, go here.

Wish List: La Garçonne Boutique

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The term “la garçonne” in French loosely translates to “tomboy” in English. As the namesake boutique states it, “the garçonne is boyish, yet dances with a whirl of femininity and a wash of ever-present youth.” Ms. Chanel was an early adopter of the ultra-androgynous look (the film Coco avant Chanel is a must-see), and model muses like Freja Beha Erichsen and Irina Lazareanu continue to perfect it. Staying true to their mission statement, La Garçonne’s awesomely abundant inventory ranges from classic unisex à la Rick Owens to edgy femme like Vanessa Bruno.

Clockwise from left: Thakoon Addition Draped Double Layer Cardi, $690; 3.1 Phillip Lim Berry Wristlet, $285; Julien McDonald Cable Sweater, $918; Vanessa Bruno Flannel Shorts, $416; Viktor & Rolf Ankle Wedge, $790.

Beauty Trends Guaranteed to Annoy: Pastels, Watercolors, & Vampires

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When Kate Moss dyed her hair gray and the entire world erupted in awe, I immediately thought, “Oh shit, here we go.” A lot of times I feel like beauty trends are a lot like reblogging — people recycling stories while believing that they own it if it’s respoken in their own style. But really, while they’re walking around feeling like frontiersmen, hundreds of guys and girls are posturing the same. It’s a beautiful thing when the runways inspire color palates and creativity, perhaps even a bit of jump-into-the-deep-end confidence by promising that style is for everyone. But some kids just ruin a trend by copying and pasting it directly to their face once they’ve seen an Olsen twin try it. These trends will probably be the first to die, or at least annoy you to death while you walk through Union Square, thanks to all the reblogging.

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Photo 1. Pastel Hair I heart this trend and I know it will certainly hit a high note in early spring because it’s an easy way to temporarily change your whole look. But because so many have been sporting it long before the winter ice had melted, it will probably exit the party early. As Rhea from Haute Latte put it, “I personally will not be partaking in this but good for them!” Early Adopters: Becka Diamond, Ashley Olsen, Dree Hemmingway.

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Photo 2. Sexy Vampires Love this guy, but since Jonathan Saunders literally described his runway face as “beautiful vampire” combined with all the Twi-Hards in the world, this will be a tough look to take seriously. It may get a second look, but the same kind of look middle-school goths get while they hang out in front of a movie theater. Early Adopters: Pete Doherty, all of Parisian nightlife.

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Photo 3. Paint-by-Number Watercolors With bold colors on Diesel’s brows and Viktor & Rolf’s cheek/eye/lip combo, it’s cool to see an over-the-top trend. A color for every facial feature! Like with these London club kids. It’s pretty awesome. But now take that and put it on everyone in nightlife. Annoying. And it might spell disaster. It might spell ‘I’m learning to do makeup for the first time.’ Early Adopters: Lynn Yaeger, ravers, maudlin dolls. Tip to make it yours: Pick one crazy color to highlight, or match it to part of your outfit. And don’t copy off of Ms. Yaeger.

Róisín Murphy Makes Viktor & Rolf’s Credit Crunch Couture Crackle

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In Paris Fashion Week, fashion heavyweights Viktor & Rolf snark-and-barbed about their Spring 2010 collection being their own take on the world’s apparent lack of money. The latter half of the duo remarked, “It’s all about cut-backs. It’s everyone’s response to the belt-tightening and recession. This is our version.” His counterpart added, “So we took out a chain saw and hacked away at excess, starting with the tulle.” In the past, V&R have always had an excellent and discerning ear about performers picked to provide a soundtrack for the catwalk. And this show, credit crisis and all, was no exception, as they found a dazzling and spirited performer in Róisín Murphy.

Murphy debuted a pair of new songs — “Royalty” and “Demon Lover” — as dramatic as the asymmetrically-sliced dresses and sharp cuts of tulle in which models paraded down the runway. Also dramatic: the top-heavy tutu she sported to obscure her burgeoning baby bump.

Viktor & Rolf Pop Quiz

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Over the past 15 years, Dutch fashion designers Viktor & Rolf have become two of the biggest forces in the industry. Here, twin peeks into their lives, loves and Zwaantje.

Greatest source of inspiration: Viktor Horsting: “Rolf.” Rolf Snoeren: “Viktor.” We find inspiration in ourselves. Our collections and shows are like an autobiography.

Most outlandish design idea to date: We recently opened the retrospective exhibition, “The House of Viktor & Rolf,” at London’s Barbican Art Gallery. We designed a gigantic doll’s house that comprises all of the highlights from our collections over the last 15 years. It has three levels and more than 25 rooms. Each room is home to a collection, which is represented by one or more couture dolls—replicas of porcelain Victorian dolls, dressed in the most iconic outfits from each show. The dolls’ faces and hair are made to look like the girls in the show.

Biggest hurdle as a designer: Our last collection, entitled “No,” was a primal reaction to the ever-increasing pace of fashion. While working on the collection, the word “no” just kept popping up. We believe that it is quite sexy to say “no,” so we decided to acknowledge our feelings and use them creatively.

Most satisfying part of the job: To be in fashion. It is what we have always dreamed of, even when we were little. Fashion for us is still like magic.

Muse: Our ideal person does not have a certain age or body type. They have a certain mindset, a “mind-style”—authentic, intelligent people who follow their own paths. We have always refused to call them “muses,” however, as that has a passive undertone.

Moment when you knew you had “made it”: There is never a sense of ultimate achievement because new dreams always come to the surface. It is our dream to establish a 21st-century fashion house. In 1996, frustrated by a lack of attention from the international press, we visualized and realized our dreams in miniature, tempting fate to turn them into reality. The installation included a miniature design studio, a catwalk show, a photo shoot and a boutique. The launch also included Le Parfum, a fictitious perfume that we produced in a limited edition of 250 bottles, which were sealed shut. In 2004, with the launch of the usable fragrance Flowerbomb, and in 2005, with the opening of the boutique in Milan, we realized these dreams.

Greatest honor to date: Many events, friendships and collaborations come to mind: Our friendship with photographers-artists Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, with whom we have worked on many occasions; our collaboration with singer-songwriter Tori Amos, who performed at a grand piano during one of our shows; our friendship with actress Tilda Swinton, which, among other things, led to dedicating a show in Paris to her; and working with Rufus Wainwright, who performed a live set during one of our shows.

God(dess) of fashion: We do not have a special god(dess) of fashion, but we admired Yves Saint Laurent. He was a great artist whose legacy has colored the world beyond fashion.

First introduction to the world of fashion: We had just moved to Paris and still lived in dismal conditions—a shoebox of an apartment, shared among three people. We had very little money and no employment. We were just out of school and were floating in free air. This was both exhilarating and difficult, because, without a frame of reference, one is left to one’s own devices—or each other’s, in our case. Our first collection felt like a scream for attention, and it set a standard for the rest of our work. The exaggeration in our designs was a reaction to a sense of loneliness and insignificance that was caused by our first encounter with Paris—Paris the city, and Paris the capital of fashion, the bastion we wanted to storm.

Most overused fashion catchphrase: What’s “in” and what’s “out.”

Most abhorrent fashion cliché: What’s “new.”

Biggest fan: Our dogs, Zwaantje & Vicky.

Your own worst sartorial misstep: Everybody has worn things that, in hindsight, might not have been the best choice one could have made. But the beauty of life is that we are supposed to make mistakes that teach you to remove one accessory before leaving the house, and never use hairspray if you are a man. Self-knowledge is the best style guide.