Don’t let the errant snowflake or sudden dips into freezing temps fool you; Friday is the first day of spring, and that means the first day of spring shopping has arrived.
Whether or not the weather is ready for it, we’re moving into the new season — even if it takes some time to come out of cozy hibernation.
Go ahead and take the fuzzy layers — in pale lavender and soft blush — from winter with you, just be sure to add some new warmer weather favorites (like these breezy dresses from Wes Gordon, Kaelen, Tibi, and Karolyn Pho), too. Lijie (Marilyn) models the best spring looks to wear now. Photographed by Robert Johnson, styled by Alyssa Shapiro.
Wes Gordon gray melange strapless dress; Tibi trench coat; Karen Gallo Stevie sneaker; Stylist’s own belt
Creatures of the Wind Jenna parka; Kaelen iridescent cowl-back slip dress
Ryan Roche turtleneck; Ryan Roche shorts; Karolyn Pho hand painted Timberlands
Karolyn Pho Slate slip dress; Wes Gordon ribbon tweed knit pullover (around waist); Ryan Roche lavender cardigan; Karen Gallo Carter sneakers
Wes Gordon blush stretch crepe long sleeved wrap dress; Ryan Roche cardigan
Tibi Maritime dress; Ryan Roche turtleneck; Karen Gallo Carter sneaker
Photographed by Robert Johnson Styled by Alyssa Shapiro Hair and makeup by Ashley Rebecca Model: Lijie Liu (Marilyn)
Taylor Tomasi-Hill isn’t the only fashion editor with a hyphenated last name that occasionally models. Tibi designer Amy Smilovic asked 23-year-old Wonderland fashion editor Julia Sarr-Jamois to star in the label’s spring 2012 ad campaign, which was styled by Swedish fashion blogger Elin Kling and shot by Reed Young.
"I’m drawn to confident women with a strong sense of their own style," Smilovic tells us. "Julia embodies that and represents what I try and bring to the line each season." The designer asked Kling to style both the campaign and Tibi SS12 runway, which received high praise from the fashion world. We can’t wait to see what the brand has in store for fall 2012.
When New York-based label Tibi sets out to find the face of their collections, they’re looking for more than just a pretty face. Last season they asked 23-year-old Wonderland editor (and street-style blog regular) Julia Sarr-Jamois to model their spring offerings, which received major props in the fashion world for its unique approach to supporting young talent. For fall, they’ve teamed up with the mastermind behind those brilliantly quirky Chanel videos, London-based artist and illustrator Quentin Jones. I chatted with Tibi designer Amy Smilovic to hear the story behind the new geometry-infused campaign and what we can expect next.
Why Quentin Jones? "When I set out to find the face of this collection, I was looking for style mixed with substance. I’m inspired by young, talented artists, so this became a focus as well. I’d seen a few of the videos Quentin created for Chanel and found them intriguing, fashionable and a bit quirky—all elements that caught my immediate attention."
How does her aesthetic relate to the FW12 collection? "Quentin’s style is clean and relaxed with a downtown edge, yet she still has that feminine flair. Our fall collection has all of those attributes—menswear inspired with a feminine touch, eased out and minimal. And Quentin’s gorgeous, so that help!"
How did this idea start of using non-models/real people for your campaigns? "It began with the SS12 collection. We were brainstorming for days on which model to use for the campaign. At that same time I was seeing Julia Sarr-Jamois photographed on the street style sites and was absolutely loving everything about her. I thought how amazing she would look in our SS12 collection and the idea sprouted from there. She felt fresh, interesting and relatable. It’s a formula that is working very well for us because these women really represent so much more than just a picture on a page. It’s about substance and style."
Who styled and produced this campaign? "My head designer and I styled the shoot. We work well together and have a good balance. We don’t typically bring in an outside stylist unless it’s some type of collaboration. Last season we collaborated with Elin Kling who worked on both our ad campaign and runway show. She’s amazing and so inspiring to work with."
What was the inspiration behind the set backdrop?
"I came across the idea looking through a magazine and saw a geometric theater set for an artistic ballet. I started looking for similar settings and then worked with a carpenter to create a series of art installations with objects of varying shapes, sizes and colors, which I loved. They added a sense of depth and created a space for the model. We shot in a very pure, white loft; the color and geometric aspect was important so we added that pop of brightness into the oversized blocks."
Any ideas who will be the face of the SS13 collection? "Yes, but that’s top secret for now."
Just because Prada made it doesn’t mean it’s not a Teva. Miuccia Prada, who regularly insists on bringing the ugly to the runway, did it again with a primary-colored and bejeweled pair to heel her spring collection. To offend further, Prada’s kindergarten colored Tevas were paired with the tube sock equivalent of a leg warmer.
Marc Jacobs had his coastal surfing army shuffling down the catwalk in Tevas, too, though Marc’s were fairly tame in comparison to Italy’s offering. This follows this past spring’s resurgence of the Birkenstock, championed by Céline, which showed up again on the New York runways, though designers like Tibi managed to create a more streamlined version.
What gives? There are better ways to do comfortable and functional that are still presentable. While bad taste is often preferable to no taste – kudos for trying, and everything – those looking to add sparkle needn’t do it literally with bejeweled sandals in a Crayola hue.
Take, for example, the Common Projects sneaker or the Vans slip on, since we are heading into fall; consistent, comfortable shoes with a timeless design that don’t have much to say in the way of bad taste. The opposite of loud, shoes like this will still garner the right kind of attention – namely for style and practicality.
From a New York Fashion Week filled with ultra-relaxed hair and easy dressing, it makes sense that our feet will benefit from the new mood, too. Only a few designers deigned to show a single-soled stiletto shoe, those cruel, beautiful monsters that are a major pain after a few hours. This spring, it’s all about comfort, two ways: the flat, and the chunky heel.
The Birkenstock is having a moment, thanks to Celine’s bejeweled mink iteration from last spring. Roll your eyes, but they caught on (and weren’t you a little jealous of those with what were essentially elegant if Muppet-y fur pillows strapped to their feet? Yes.) For spring 2014, Tibi did a Birk-ish flat sandal in a simple slide in white, black, or bedazzled, and they’re quite pretty.
Another sandal for spring comes from Suno, with a simple shape and in blocked colors that coordinate well with the collection.
Honor also treated us to flats – sparkly ones at that. These more formal pieces paired perfectly with Honor’s pretty, proper dresses. Who doesn’t love a flat they can dress up in?
Next up is The Row, who worked on a limited-edition collaboration with Italian men’s shoemakers Enzo Bonafè. If you want to get into this pair come spring, you have to get yourself into a waitlist now. The results of their partnership are beautiful, timeless shoes that look buttery, elegant, and comfortable from here.
Looking for height? Ditch the pin heel and reach for one of this chunky bunch:
Tess Giberson showed white and black leather shoes that crawled up the ankle like armor – ideal for stomping around.
The best shoe of the bunch hailed from Spanish brand Delpozo, who managed to make a potentially clunky heel girly and still fashion forward. All bearing a bow and coming in colors like metallic teal, chartreuse, lavender, silver and gold, along with matte black and white, there’s an option for every outfit.
Of the trends to emerge on the runways, some of the most fun are the beauty looks; there’s no waiting until February to try on what you’ve seen. Beauty is relatively low cost, It’s easy to change it, and if you hate it, wash it off. That’s why beauty trends are the greatest to experiment with, and the newest trial on the to do list applies perfectly in a few places but in one color: white.
In its most elegant iteration, Tom Pecheux dusted models at Altuzarra with shine-free white powder from lash to brow, paired in a trés français way with a sophisticated red lip. Clean, modern, and good on anyone, regardless of skin tone or age.
In keeping with the wild theme at Rodarte, hair stylist Odile Gilbert stenciled zebra stripes in white and black to strands—certainly a more outrageous iteration of the trend. It might be smart to enlist a partner for help with this one, and probably even smarter to avoid it completely.
Kate Spade, ever the quirky-sweet designer to show at New York Fashion Week, again presented her gals with a white nail, the tip of which was accompanied by a pink stripe and grey end. Eyes were lined graphically and dramatically with white on the bottom lash and inner corners, with black on top to ground it all: a little Twiggy, a little ‘60s, and a little loud.
At Tibi, the look was made easy and wearable in two ways. For nails, Jin Soon painted white manicures with black lines—symbols travelers used in the ‘20s to say “All Right.” The color, which was actually an extremely subtle blue-grey-white, reads white without reading harsh, helping it steer clear of White Out territory. Eyes were softly lined in white as well, and surprisingly, the look didn’t scream 2002. The whole look, which was a whole lot of white, seems like it’ll translate well to real life.
The weather this week has been ideal for walking between shows, many of which were situated on Manhattan’s west side.
At Kanye West approved Louise Goldin, athletic gear reigned, though in less literal terms than the clothes shown at Rag & Bone. Still, black and white athletic shorts and a grey tennis dress told that part of the story clearly. Dusty pink and turquoise – California sunset colors – dotted the rest of the collection. As we decline ever so comfortably into a more casual civilization, at least our choices of athletic wear are made to be appropriate for the street.
Alexander Wang’s logomania took hold with the help of technical fabric innovations that weren’t prevalent when the trend first reared its head in the ‘90s. Laser cut leather showcased the designer’s name in repetition on almost every single look in the latter part of the collection, creating a sort of streetwise lace. Though Wang has committed to Balenciaga, this collection was to show us, his dedicated fans, that he has not decamped from downtown cool in his eponymous line.
photo via @fashionlovebox
Every bit of fabric in the Tibi spring collection flowed beautifully around the body without ever becoming so clingy as to be suggestive, the result of which perhaps had to do with the natural materials used in the collection. From leather, silk, and breezy mesh, modern, minimal, feminine shapes emerged. The embellished shoes, a continuation of the Birkenstock reinvigoration ignited by Celine last season, looked comfortable and covetable. Considering midriffs, logomania, tearaways and Birkenstocks, it seems we’re all longing for the simpler ‘90s in some way. The collection pieces all looked sublimely easy to wear, as if any girl with preference for any style could find a piece from Tibi to love.
At Altuzarra, liquid gold and silver, or fabric that gave the impression of melted gilding, flowed and poured ethereally over models Maria Bradley, Josephine Le Tutour, and Sasha Luss. The skirts, paired with ultra fine Henley tees, communicated the ease with which Joseph Altuzarra meant the collection to be worn. Luscious materials paired with slight disarray create the perfect combination for a commanding, sensual presence, all the while leaving the wearer extremely comfortable in her garb.
Meanwhile, at Milk, a frenzy of presentations took place. The room that held CFDA Incubator designer Jonathan Simkhai was packed tight; it took some deft navigation to catch a glimpse of the clothes. Once settled in front of the models, visions of perforated leather bombers, easy leather skorts (more evidence the ‘90s are back,) and athletic-inspired shapes (again) unfolded.
New(ish)comer Bellavance seems to understand simple and light layering. A robe-like and weightless jacket floated briefly as the model walked by, creating again the sense that we’d like to wear our indoor clothes out, so make them comfortable and chic, please.
With almost half of fashion week behind us, there’s still a lot more to see. Keep up with us and go to www.motorola.com/us/home for more.
“Clean, crisp, sporty, looks and relaxed styles you want to live in,” explained Amy Smilovic when we recently asked about her inspiration for Tibi SS12. As the label’s head designer, Smilovic has watched the Tibi girl grow. She’s definitely always been chic and classic, but now, with the help of Swedish style star Elin Kling, Tibi’s gal is cooler than ever. At yesterday’s show, I was spellbound by the ultra-minimalist looks that floated down the runway in simple silhouettes and clever color combos, like the nude-neon number above. See more favorites after the jump.
Every look reflects the easy-chic style manifesto that we know and love from Kling–especially the Bermuda shorts that both she and the designer appointed as their favorite piece in the collection. Amidst the super structured looks were whimsically fluid dresses that we’re sure to see on the red carpet. While monochromatic and color-blocked looks primarily ruled Tibi’s runway, a few printed numbers emerged that were balanced with menswear-inspired touches–like a buttoned-up collar–to offset the femininity.
While there are definitely a host of spring collections I’m looking forward to seeing this NYFW, one runway show I’m considerably hyped for is Tibi on September 13, which will be styled by Elin Kling – a first for the Swedish fashion blogger. When we chatted with her earlier this year, she noted that she treats her blog like a CV, as it documents both her work-related experiences and undeniable knack for styling herself. Her unique sophisticated-sportswear aesthetic caught the eye of Tibi designer Amy Smilovic, so she asked Kling to help create the looks for the label’s spring runway and campaign—and we can’t wait to see the outcome. To toast the collaboration, we asked Smilovic and Kling a few separate questions to see if they’re really on the same style wavelength (hint: they are).
Amy SmilovicWhat’s your inspiration for Tibi’s SS12 collection? The inspiration is taken heavily from the ’90s—a freshly scrubbed Gisele from the pages of Vogue—clean, crisp, sporty looks and relaxed styles you want to live in. If I could sum it up it would be “effortlessly-chic.” The main colors are graphic and cold mixed with some warmer pastel shades. When styling this collection, we asked ourselves two questions: 1) Are we dying to wear these outfits ourselves? and 2) Would we look twice if we saw someone else wearing it?
Who is the ultimate Tibi girl? She’s cool and has a relaxed attitude. She’s never trying too hard and has a total ease about her style. Elin embodies the Tibi girl.
How did you choose to work with Elin? I contacted Elin because, of course, I was familiar with her and her blog, Style By Kling. This really gave me a sense of her personal style, which represents a side of my own. I had a good sense of how she mixes and matches clothing and I was excited and curious to see what she could do with this collection.
What can we expect from the Tibi SS12 show? I keep repeating these words, but I can only sum it up as what I feel the looks represent: very clean, relaxed and effortless. You’ll see bold colors mixed with saturated pastel hues, both feminine and masculine detailing and pretty yet downtown chic silhouettes. Elin and I have been meshing well together on a creative level so I think you won’t find any surprises here but she’s throwing in some interesting elements that can only be devised by bouncing of ideas off each other.
What is your favorite Tibi runway look this season? My favorite look is the Bermuda short suit in poplin—it feels new and I can’t wait to wear it with a strappy heeled sandal.
Elin KlingHow did the collaboration come about? I was so excited when Amy asked and since I never have styled a show before this was a true challenge. I was also very excited that Amy really wanted me to do Tibi in my way. What we can expect from the show? You can expect 18 confident girls on a runway with a look to be jealous of. Hopefully! What’s your favorite Tibi runway look this season? Well, after all these days working with Amy, I’m not surprised that we have the same favorite look – the Bermuda shorts! That’s all I want to wear from now on. How do you hope to put your own influence into the show? I don’t want to try too hard or get stressed about creating something that really stands out. I will work in the same way as when I did my collection for H&M—just do exactly what I like and try to feel comfortable with that. How will Tibi work into your own wardrobe? Very well! What I like about Tibi is that it’s a brand that has pieces that will fit into so many wardrobes; it’s all about how you wear it.