Thom Browne F/W 17 Campaign

Photo: Thomas Goldblum for Thom Browne.

Thom Browne‘s new F/W 17 look book takes cardboard cutout, architectural tweed vibes and makes them fashion. The clothing is decidedly multidimensional and the silhouettes unprecedented. Paired with mask-like head gear and black lips, it’s a sensational mix of military, goth, and couture.

On the runway, models wore hoof-like boots and some carried suitcases. It’s a total deconstruction of the classically boring gray suit seen in offices everywhere, reimagined as lumpy, asymmetrical pieces of art.

Take a look.

5 Songs We’re Shazaming This Fashion Week

Fashion Week = clothes, yes, but you’re missing out if the only app you’re opening is Instagram. Breaking away from the camera for a few seconds to switch on Shazam yields a whole other creative wealth and will help build the perfect playlist for remaining calm and energized running from one show to the next. So our top five downloads so far this season? (In no particular order):

While waiting for Karolyn Pho to start // Warpaint’s “Love Is To Die”

Closing out Thom Browne’s ecclesiastical show // OMD’s “Sister Marie Says”

At CFDA Incubator designer Nonoo’s fall show // Phantogram’s “Fall In Love”

Marissa Webb gave us two to download: Robi’s “On Ne Meurt Plus D’amour” (which we heard at at least one other show)

and Au Revoir Simone’s “Love You Don’t Know Me”

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqlmtxb7R5I

Enjoy.

It’s All New: Balenciaga’s Store, Thom Browne’s Look, LVMH’s Fund: Today’s #StyleScoop

Catch up on the latest happenings in fashion and style:

Fledgling designers will have another shot at a helping hand thanks to LVMH’s new global fashion prize. WIth members like Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Phoebe Philo, Nicolas Ghesquiere and Riccardo Tisci on the board, winners will be privy to their advice along with a 300,000 euro prize. The prize aims to find the fashion designer of tomorrow – without the American/British limits the CFDA and BFC place on their funds. Kenzo/Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim will join in on the search. The 30 semifinalists will be flown by LVMH to Paris to show their collections in March.

Alexander Wang bowed his new Balenciaga retail store in SoHo, feted last night by the likes of Julianne Moore, Joseph Altuzarra, Max Snow, Vanessa Traina, and Julia Restoin Roitfeld. What to expect? Lots of green marble.

Love Thom Browne but afraid of a highwater? Fortunately for those seeking a classic American look, Thom Browne is expanding his offerings to include a new line – andt this is a little confusing, so stay with me – called Thom Browne. What about his other Thom Browne line? It’ll be renamed Thom Brown New York. The new Thom Browne will feature his aesthetic with a more classic fitting suit.

CFDA winners Dao Yi Chow and Maxwell Osbourne of Public School are working hard on their J.Crew collaboration collection, and there’s a whisper in the air about a possible women’s line. Which is great news for women. Fingers crossed.

The fashion weeks controversy has been ongoing – scheduling is a nightmare for everyone, and it’s no secret that Milan has been the stickiest of all the cities in refusing to budge or cooperate. But this is progress – Giorgio Armani joined the National Chamber of Italian Fashion in an attempt to reinvigorate Milan Fashion Week. He still wants all Italian designers to show in Italy. But he recognizes the need for reorganization. We’re on the right track now.

On to more serious business, those working to improve safety standards in the Bangladesh factories have found some common ground and are moving toward an agreement. Good news all around.

Fashion Week by the Numbers

Fashion week – scratch that – fashion month, has finally drawn to a clothes. I mean close. It’s going to be a very shiny spring.

fashion week

Thanks for the memories, Marco and Marc. It’s been real! See you next season.

Standout Show: Thom Browne

As the Thom Browne show began to unfold (about 50 minutes late,) Bjork shushed us from the loudspeakers and raw light bulbs flickered, alighting headless body casts that hung overhead (disembodied leg casts were strewn on the ground below).

The models that first appeared had a task to attend to before the show could really begin, first filling plastic cups with white candies from carts throughout the show space, then doling them out – like medicine – to editors and buyers in the crowd. It made sense, then, that they were dressed in nurse-like all white, in bustled, pearl button-backed dresses, and latex tights and white ruffled socks. For this, Jack Nitzsche’s Medication Valse played, which appeared in “One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest”. From that point, the references were clear: we were in Thom Browne’s insane asylum.

Confused and delicate, with her lipstick smeared about her powdered face, the first patient emerged, slowly making her way through the space, stopping for photos and to make eye contact with those in front of whom she paused. The rest who followed, with empty handbags haphazardly tossed open, devoid of contents probably stripped during check-in, made the same rounds, gingerly and politely resting one hand on the other.

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photo via @thombrownenyc

Everyone sported a wild, vertiginous mess of hair that red- and pearl-embellished nets did nothing to contain.  The sculpted dresses with latex overlay, suggestive ruffles, and stiff fabrics, were accompanied by to-the-chin necklines, and latex gloves with white acrylic fingernails attached.  One model wore an actual straitjacket, if a couture-like one. It was a little bit funny, if you could forget the tragedy of losing one’s mind.

Though beautiful, the clothes were entirely unrealistic to wear in a modern, sane, everyday life. Sculptured curves would inhibit any form of repose. The clothes were fantastical, and though institutionalism isn’t for everyone, that drastic disregard for reality, though sad, is a somewhat luxurious expense – there’s something glamorous in living in Thom Browne’s world. 

Main image via @cindi_leive

FashionFeed: Wildfox Produces Swimwear Envy, Linda Fargo Induces Life Envy

● This heat wave has us lusting after Wildfox Couture’s new swimwear line. [Wildfox] ● Here’s Linda Fargo of Bergdorf Goodman being fabulous on the isle of Capri. Can we be her for, like, 2 seconds? [Racked] ● Thakoon’s spiffy new e-commerce site includes looks from his namesake label as well as Thakoon Addition and Carbon Copy. We’re obviously hooked. [Thakoon]

● Designer Thom Browne has signed with big-time talent agency William Morris Endeavor to be represented under their Branded Lifestyle group. We’ll find out what that means soon. [Fashionologie] ● Just when you thought the royal wedding obsession was abating, it’s been announced that Kate Middleton’s McQueen dress and accessories are officially on display in London. [Styleite]

Predicting the Five Biggest Showstoppers at New York Fashion Week

Another season, another Fashion Week. Starting tomorrow, Manhattan will be invaded by race-walking clothes-whores in tight pants, gaudy-chic eyewear, and fur that ain’t faux. Packed schedules and the scant number of cabs commuting between Lincoln Center and Milk Studios (where the greatest concentration of runway presentations will be held) make it necessary for designers to promise both steak and sizzle when battling for the attention of buyers, editors, and bloggers. Choosing which show to attend can sometimes be as much about the clothes as it is the spectacle. Herewith, five presentations upping the ante on hype this season.

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Thom Browne: Two weeks ago, in Paris, Thom Browne put on a delicious show—literally, it involved male models skirting the perimeter of a banquet table laid out with all manner of epicurean delights. Some of the models even came out carrying roasted turkeys. Expect something equally outlandish when he presents his new women’s collection at the New York Public Library.

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Elise Øverland: Elise Øverland, who once designed costumes for Aerosmith at the request of Steven Tyler, knows a thing or two about creating a scene, which she’ll do this year when she presents her fall/winter 2011 collection at the Standard. Well, it’s at the Standard’s ice rink. On the ice. With a performance by Johnny Weir! It doesn’t get much for fabulous than that. image

Ken: Perhaps you’ve been the billboards? This Sunday, Christie’s, the famed auction house, will be hosting a bash inspired by Barbie’s beau. Menswear presentations will include the latest looks from Billy Reid, Michael Bastian, Nicholas K, Robert Geller, Simon Spurr, and Yigal Azrouël, all of whom will, one assumes, be dressing the blondest, buffest male models in town.

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The Blonds: Speaking of blonde—Phillipe and David Blond, longtime purveyors of catwalk pizzazz (they’ve dressed everyone from Lady Gaga and Nicki Minaj, to Ke$ha and Katy Perry), have sent out movie poster-size invitations to their upcoming show, The Blond, requesting that we “witness the armies of the night… controlled by the forbidden city’s most dangerous matriarch.” Not sure what that means, but we’ll be there.

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Jeremy Scott: Finally, we have Jeremy Scott, who once sent a model down the runway in a two-piece outfit made entirely of prosciutto. We have no idea what he has in store for his next show, Candy Flip, but Nylon says it might have something to do with mixing LSD and Ecstasy, our two favorite things!

Moncler x Thom Browne Luxe Puffer

Gentlemen, if you’re feeling the need to splurge this winter—you know, Gstaad via your G550 from Teterboro—why not round it out with this amazing duck-down puffer jacket from Moncler’s Gamme Bleu line? Gamme Bleu is a joint collaboration between European skiwear specialists Moncler and American sportswear mastermind Thom Browne. Needless to say, the fledgling collection is performance luxe at its peak.

Structured à la the traditional Moncler puffer, this woolen piece is altogether practical, fashion-forward, and insanely comfortable. It also comes in a navy waterproof version with pinstriped oxford lining—perfect for the world’s most exclusive double black diamonds. Available at Moncler New York, 90 Prince Street, 646-350-3620.