Trends Out of Pre Fall: The Big Eight from Chanel, Alexander Wang, Belstaff, and More

Only a month and a half out – cue panic – from the new and improved New York fashion week, we can’t help but wonder what designers will bestow upon us this coming season. If the pre fall collections are any indication of what’s to come, we’ll be seeing an inundation of fringe, plenty of pleats and lots of lace. Plaids and floral will be prominent pattern stories, as will the black and white pairings that we saw this past spring. Big volume will remain a big player. And Bermuda shorts will make an impressive comeback.

(Above) Lace Resort

Seen at: Burberry, Jason Wu, Rag & Bone

Dark, dramatic lace could be found all throughout the pre fall collections.  This season’s lace felt romantic, sensual and not in the least bit girly.

BermudaTriangleBermuda Triangle 

Seen at: ALC, Rag & Bone, Thakoon, Band of Outsiders

Reminiscent of a schoolboy uniform from private schools past, Bermuda shorts came back in a more tailored way. Rather than being oversized and slouchy they were grown up – a crisp, formal approach to the menswear trend.

BlackWhiteCompare and Contrast

Seen at: DKNY, Donna Karan, Alice & Olivia, Narciso Rodriguez

The back and white pairings that dominated spring runways came back bolder and even more graphic. The contrasting colors felt distinctly harder, tougher, and seemed to harken back to the 1960s.

CowgirlsIndiansCowgirls and Indians

Seen at: Chanel, Derek Lam, Alexander Wang, Nicole Miller

Cowboy hats, boots, and fringe, oh my. Epitomized by Chanel’s show in Dallas, the cowboy trend was more apparent than ever. Fringe found itself on everything from bags to the backs of dresses and broad rimmed hats and over the knee boots.

InFullBloom In Full Bloom

Seen at: Badgley Mischka, Erdem, Alice & Olivia, Temperley London

A perennial trend, flowers bloomed bold and beautiful this fall. In pastel pink and brooding black, blooms were rendered in a dozen different ways. We loved the graphic interpretations as well as the retro inspired prints.

Plaiditude A Plaiditude

Seen at: Altuzarra, Belstaff, Rachel Comey, Thakoon

Cleaning up the grungy plaids of last fall, this season’s tartans are crisp and classic with a modern twist. Interpreted in new color combinations and shapes the plaid feels reinvigorated and new.

PleatsPleasePleats and Thanks

Seen at: ALC, Gucci, Tory Burch, Missoni

Pleated skirts in delicate swingy fabrics look simultaneously classic and fresh, especially when reinterpreted in silver metallic fabric or paired with sleek, minimal accessories.

sizemattersSize Matters

Seen at: Adam Lippes, Just Cavalli, Derek Lam, Proenza Schouler

Proving more is more. Jackets and pants in particular were given an extra dose of volume. Big, boxy structural shapes reigned supreme.

Exclusive First Look: Inside Alice Temperley’s New Book

There was only one show that Pippa Middleton chose to attend during London Fashion Week – and that was Temperley London. Life imitated art as the Duchess of Cambridge’s sister marveled over the high society inspired collection of draped satins and organza prints, which was a fitting theme for the label’s 10-year anniversary. While the esteemed royal support is testament enough to her British roots, designer Alice Temperley – who was recently named a Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) by the Queen – is launching a book to celebrate a decade’s worth of Britannia style. Read on for an exclusive sneak peek.

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With a foreword by Harper’s Bazaar UK editor Lucy Yeomans, True British: Alice Temperley contains a rich history of Temperley London’s style evolution. From memorable campaigns and editorials, to the designer’s personal photo archives, the tome provides a unique look inside the world of one of UK’s most celebrated designers.

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True British: Alice Temperley is published by Rizzoli New York and can be purchased on October 4 here.

The Most Regal Moments of London Fashion Week

We’re not even close to being caught up on all the TV we missed during New York Fashion Week and here we are talking about London. No complaints, though, since the last few days have played host to a number of exciting F/W collections across the pond, recharging our sartorial batteries faster than we thought possible. From a show at the prestigious British Museum, to a collection fit for a fashionable princess, to an elite preview from one of the kings of fashion, these are the events that give London a royal edge.

It was a grand homecoming for Temperley London, who, after two years of presenting in New York, made their way back to the UK. There’s no better way to mark your return than to show at the British Museum—the first national public museum in the world and home to the royal library. The collection was brilliantly executed and included gorgeous evening wear in chiffon, satin, tulle, and mouth-watering embroidery. Over at Kate Middleton-approved label Issa, sophisticated looks, ranging from conservative to downright show-stopping (hellooo, high-slits), were on show. Each piece seemed perfect for the princess-to-be’s updated classic style.

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Moving on to fashion’s royalty, Tom Ford was on-hand to deliver another patrician spectacle for his second womenswear collection. As if last season’s presentation wasn’t exclusive enough, this time around he set private appointments and invited only a select group of editors and stylists to attend the two-day engagement, which required a non-disclosure agreement. We hear that the intimate event featured every hot model under the sun—Abbey Lee, Jourdan Dunn, Arizona Muse, Natasha Poly, and Anja Rubik, to name a few. And although images and formal reviews will likely stay under wraps until the release date, at least we have Mr. Classy himself, Derek Blasberg’s tweets to hold us over. A bag dedicated to Carine Roitfeld? Now that’s classy.

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Photo credit: Fashionista; Vogue

Fashion Week: A Cinephile’s Dream Come True

Tom Ford’s directorial debut, A Single Man, may have just premiered at the Venice Film Festival (where its lead, Colin Firth scored the Volpi Cup award for his performance). But back stateside, quite a few designers showing Spring 2010 collections at New York Fashion Week have been bitten by the film bug. Shipley & Halmos and Tim Hamilton showcased film-centric presentations that forewent a catwalk and models this past weekend. Steven Alan presented an original film, directed by Adam Levite, last night in the Yard at the Soho Grand Hotel in place of a traditional runway show. And, as I mentioned Monday, Gareth Pugh debuted a four-part filmic installation in Milk Studios over the weekend in anticipation of his Paris runway show.

And, yesterday, 8 flights up from the garage that housed Pugh’s films, Alice Temperley brought her own version of sartorial cinema to NYC. The latter included literal mannequins outfitted in SS10 Temperley London looks lined up beside a carnival circa the 20s-themed short film. Shortly before the presentation, Temperley mused on the show’s concept via email. “We wanted to challenge the conventional way of presenting a collection in the attempt to come up with something completely innovative and before unseen. We also wanted to make the collection accessible to a wider audience on a global scale and take into consideration those who are unable to travel due to restricted travel budgets. The new Format is also sensitive to the ever increasing environmental issues surrounding the seasonal traveling.”

So, how exactly does showing a film differ from a runway show in terms of user experience? “The nature presenting the collection in this way also allows the installation and collection to be transported to the main fashion capitals for a debut in each, something previously unheard of with the catwalk concept.” (Post debuting in NYC, the film will travel to London Fashion Week and, subsequently, Paris.) And, Temperley explains, it allows for new found relationship potentials both within the industry as well as beyond. “For the fashion insider they are entitled to not only get up close and interact with the clothes at the first available opportunity but they themselves are invited to participate within the installation. For the consumer, they too can feel a part of the debut simply by following the Temperley London site for an immediate release of the film and collections shots at Temperleylondon.com. Not only that, but they get to experience the collection through the film rather than static runway shots on a generic catwalk.” So, can one expect that eventually everyone will cut costs and consider showing similarly structured presentations? Probably not, says Temperley. Besides, “if every designer decided to show in the same format every season we would be back to where we started.”

New York: Two-Hour Soho Speed Shopping

If you’ve got two hours and room left on your plastic, we’ve got your personal shopapocalypse. These seven Soho streets will help you enjoy wonderful, personal economic collapse in record time.

START: West Broadway (between Houston and Broome)Max Mara – Newly accessorized office couture for the career-minded urbanite. ● Swiss Army Soho – High-quality accessories don’t just includes knives. ● Reiss – Britain’s answer to Barney’s.

Wooster (between Houston and Spring)The North Face – Gear for the urban tundra. ● Betsy Johnson – Frocks for youthful ladies of all ages. ● Diesel – A wardrobe staple for any New Yorker. ● Tibi – Crusty casual basics.

Greene (between Houston and Broome)Paul Smith – Charming vintage meets modern design, UK style. ● Marc Jacobs – Marc might be out of his closet, but he should certainly be in yours. ● Jack Spade – Accessories for the modern man. ● Catherine Malandrino – Sexiness abounds in the form of frilly frocks. ● AG Adriano Goldschmied – The in-house tailor will ensure a snug fit in a variety of styles.

Prince (between Greene and Mercer)Intermix – Intermixed style runs deep.

Mercer (between Prince and Spring)A.P.C. – A must stop for anyone looking for Soho chic. ● Agent Provocateur – The light burlesque flavor of their lingerie will spice up any bedroom.

Spring (between Mercer and Broadway)Ben Sherman – UK preppy for the Soho set.

FINISH: Broome (between Greene and Mercer)Temperley London – Don’t be put off by the walk upstairs, it’s worth it.