Insta-Critic: Saturday in London, The Kookier Side of FW

Photo: @utopia_electro on Instagram

While you were at brunch this weekend, a host of England’s fashion finest sent their new collections down the runway. A new week has begun (Monday, groan) so let’s make it a little brighter with some exciting fashion from across the pond.

Sibling

Sibling’s collection, simply called “Woman,” was full of Debbie Harry references (complete with tufted black mohawks) and neon-colored fair isle.

Electric fair isle    

Efforts capillaires punk chez Sibling #LFW #FW1516 @cozettemc #siblinglondon A photo posted by Printemps Official (@printempsofficial) on

   

The next big hair accessory.

J.W. Anderson

An all-out homage to the 80s in a season where the 70s have reigned supreme. Think kooky color combos (even Christmassy red and green), oversized suedes, slightly bigger shoulders–and even a wolf sweater.

JWANDERSON AW15

A photo posted by J.W.ANDERSON (@jw_anderson) on

The good news is you can get this look for less if you go vintage.

Simone Rocha A luxe collection in print and texture, Rocha’s clothes were heavy on blacks and velvets with rich brocade (a bolder print which has been popping up around LFW).    

A photo posted by simonerocha_ (@simonerocha_) on

   

Fit for a modern-day queen.

House of Holland

Always one to make some noise, Henry Holland put his models on a conveyor belt–no walk necessary. The collection was unsurprisingly bright–filled with clashing tartans and brightly striped shearling.

Tartans on the moving walkway.

Gareth Pugh A darkly patriotic collection, Pugh sent a collection that marked his tenth year, filled with dark black drama (think a Mongolian lambswool coat), chains, and most notably, St. George’s cross, red, and painted onto each model’s face.    

Garett Pugh slays…#fashion #garethpugh #LFW A photo posted by artistic evolution (@utopia_electro) on

   

The full effect. 

Tired of Plain Blue Jeans? Simone Rocha Has Your New Denim Fix

Simone Rocha x J Brand

Let’s face it: denim is so ubiquitous that beyond our staple jeans (and maybe a jacket, maybe a button-up) we don’t really get that crazy with denim. Unless you’re Simone Rocha, who has just launched a cool new collaboration with J Brand that’s completely void of basic blue jeans.

Her new collection, inspired by schoolgirls, features ruffled tops and bottoms, dresses, and sleeveless jackets that would make for cute separates, or as a complete look together. “I wanted it to feel a little awkward, a bit young and naive, like the jackets are voluminous and oversized and you see a lot of ankle with the jean,” Rocha told Style.com.

The Simone Rocha for J Brand Collection is available November 14 exclusively at Dover Street Market.

Reappropriating the Pearl: Dark or Bedroom, Take Your Pick

Historically a rather refined and prim adornment, associated with WASPdom and conservatism, the pearl has been reappropriated, now suitable for a more subversive set. Thanks to shows in New York and London, for spring, the girl wearing pearls could be sexier, harder, and powerful in comparison to her single-strand wearing counterparts.

At Thakoon, the pearl had moved to the bedroom. Styled with chemise-like dresses, wrapped suggestively around the neck, circling the wrist over and over, it was a decidedly sexier take than we’ve seen it previously. In the past, the pearls we’ve known have been inherited from generations past; this new iteration has little to do with family and proper decorum. For Thakoon, the pearls gave rather amatory feelings.

In London, Simone Rocha hardened the look, the collection itself taking a turn from the designer’s sweeter past, making a darker move than previously. Plasticized crochet and black leather accompanying the pearls down the runway lent the required moodier tone. The pearls, stuck to knee-highs, shoes, and accentuating purposeful and revealing tears in skirts, could have been un-strung from inherited strands, and reattached to a new, more defiant, wardrobe.

Simone Rocha

No longer conventional, traditional, sweet, or pure, the pearl takes on new life to spring, reinventing itself for relevance in a modern world where strength and confidence imbue the nature of women and their, and nature’s, gemstone. 

Simone Rocha