Saint Laurent’s F/W 17 Campaign Feels Like the Trailer For a High Fashion Action Film

Anthony Vaccarello’s latest campaign as Creative Director of Saint Laurent takes the brand to the fast-paced, gritty neon streets of Tokyo, in a fashion film that reads as much like a showcase of the brand’s new collection as it does the trailer for a couture version of The Fast and the Furious.

The video for the men’s F/W 17 collection is directed by frequent YSL-collaborator Nathalie Canguilhem, who’s helmed two of the brand’s previous campaigns. Models include Mica Arganaraz, Anja Rubik, Adut Akech, Dalibor Urosevic, and Paul Manniez. It also doesn’t hurt that Oscar Wilde’s “Her Voice” is spoken over the entire clip.

Vaccarello sparked some controvery by announcing his famed label would not show its S/S 18 collection at Men’s Fashion Week in Paris, instead opting to present at women’s week this September.

Take a look at the campaign video below:

Anthony Vaccarrello Continues to Sex Up Saint Laurent in New Campaign

Photography by Collier Schorr

Since taking over for Hedi Slimane as Creative Director of Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello has breathed new life into the iconic brand with deconstructed, highly-sexualized runway shows exploring cut, silhouette, and texture. Today, he continues his electrification of the brand with a new campaign featuring superstar models including Yasmin Wijnaldum, Freja Beha Erischen, Binx Walton and Lexi Boling.

Check out the campaign below.

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The provocative new ad series is shot by Collier Schorr and represents a continuation of Vaccarello’s raw new aesthetic take on Saint Laurent. He’s only been in charge of the historic house for a season, but is already setting himself apart from his predecessors, who include such fashion legends as Tom Ford and Alber Elbaz. He recently featured trap star Travi$ Scott in a campaign video as well.

Anthony Vaccarello Shows His Debut Collection With YSL

Illustration by Hilton Dresden

Anthony Vaccarello debuted his first runway collection as creative director of Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion week, and the designer certainly kicked off his new career move in style.

“It’s a work in progress,” Vaccarello told Vogue regarding his spring 2017 collection. “[The Saint Laurent woman]’s certainly not bourgeois or classic. She has a huge respect for Saint Laurent, but not in the first degree. So I thought of her taking a vintage dress and cutting into it.”

The first look in Vaccarello’s line was a black leather version of one of Saint Laurent’s retro puffy-sleeved dresses. In other cases, Vaccerello took cuts out of classic forms, deepening necklines, and replacing sections of gowns and jackets with sheer, see-through materials for a sexier, punkier edge.

The show felt like a celebration of ’80s excess and visually stunned. The silhouettes felt fresh and nostalgic all at once, giving us some early-Lady Gaga vibes (particularly in the large sleeves and shiny beading.)

If the show is any indicator, the post-Hedi Slimane Saint Laurent is set to dazzle and innovate. Time will tell is Vaccarello can maintain the high standards he’s just set.

View the full collection at Vogue Runway.

BlackBook Fashion: ‘1.8 Surge Charge, Car is 8 Minutes Away’

Photography: Nicholas Maggio
Styling: Rima Vaidila
Model: Allegra Carpenter (LA Models)

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Turtleneck, Sweater & Coat: Assembly New York, Top: Club Monaco, Jeans: Won Hundred, Boots: Saint Laurent, Sunglasses: Ahlem Eyewear

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Dress: CF. Goldman

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(Left) Dress: CF. Goldman, Boots: Saint Laurent (Right) Jacket: Sandy Liang, Skirt: Won Hundred, Duffle: Saint Laurent

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Turtleneck, sweater & coat: Assembly New York, Top: Club Monaco, Jeans: Won Hundred, Boots: Saint Laurent, Sunglasses: Ahlmen Eyewear

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Sweater: CF. Goldman, Shirt: Liebeskind, Skirt: Club Monaco, Scarf: A Peace Treaty, Boots: Isabel Marant

Why Ban This Saint Laurent Ad? + 7 More Banned Fashion Ads

The banned Saint Laurent ad featuring the model Kiki Willems, shot by the house’s creative director, Hedi Slimane.

Fashion is constantly courting controversy, whether dancing the line on a healthy BMI, playing with drugs, or pushing the art of seduction a little too far. See the banned Saint Laurent ad + 7 other banned ads here.

When you look at the most recent Saint Laurent ad, seen above, shot by Hedi Slimane and featuring the model Kiki Willems, what catches your eye? For me it was the near-unconsciousness of the model. But for the ASA in the U.K., it was the Willems’s body, how thin she is — too thin, according to the agency. I take issue with this — she’s not skeletal, she’s not imminently in danger of hospitalization, or passing out and yes, you could say that’s exactly what she did right before this photo was taken. Is this another form of body shaming? Who can say from the photo whether Willems is healthy or not? I see no flies circling.

Models with athletic, curvy figures are de rigueur now, in vogue — look at models of the moment Gigi Hadid and her sister Bella Hadid, both gorgeous, both curvy with insane bodies. See also: the uber-athletic Karlie Kloss, who posts workout videos to Instagram nearly daily. Some women are bigger, and still gorgeous, like Candice Huffine. What about the skinny girls who just can’t put on a pound no matter how hard they try, but are still healthy? Let everyone live! I say.

Does she appear unhealthily thin to you? While you mull it over, take a gander at seven more ads banned over the years, from a Marc Jacobs ad featuring Dakota Fanning to a series of Terry Richardson-lensed ads that were made against everyone’s better judgement.

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A sexualized and 17-year-old Dakota Fanning depicted with a bottle of the Marc Jacobs Lola perfume between her legs.

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In 2001, this Saint Laurent ad for Opium perfume featuring Sophie Dahl was banned.

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Tom Ford‘s 2004 Gucci campaign featuring Carmen Kass getting some controversial grooming done, shot by Mario Testino.

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Sisley ads shot by Terry Richardson. Take your pick!

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Mia Goth for Miu Miu was banned for portraying a child in a sexualized manner.

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And then there’s the spectacularity of this Tom Ford ad, shot by, who else? Terry Richardson.

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Plus check out Kylie Minogue’s banned TV commercial for Agent Provacateur here.

 

Get up on This Fashion News before You Leave for the Weekend

Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

Models: Out of Work Forever?

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First Joan Didion for Celine, now Joni Mitchell has been revealed as the star of Saint Laurent’s new campaign. Let’s first take a moment to applaud the use of older women as campaign models. I love that, and hope that, if fashion can embrace women at any age, then Hollywood might be next. I’m just a little bit concerned for the bank accounts of models everywhere.

HRC Takes on Saks Fifth Ave

The HRC has suspended Saks Fifth Avenue from their CEI (Corporate Equality Index) in response to Saks’ insensitive handling of a lawsuit brought forth by a transgender employee.

Leyth Jamal, a former employee of Saks, filed an employment discrimination lawsuit under Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964 claiming she had been discriminated against, harassed, and subject to a hostile work environment based on her gender identity.

The department store argued in court that the suit should be dismissed because “transsexuals are not a protected class under Title VII” of the Civil Rights Act of 1964.

Tiffany’s New Same-Sex Ad Campaign Makes Us Happy

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Because same-sex couples get engaged too.

Public School Wins the Woolmark Prize

Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, designers of Public School, are winning all the awards. 

STYLE SCOOP: Jessica Chastain’s Underboob, Fashion-Chasing Investors

Mergers and Acquisitions investors are looking to fashion brands for ideas of what to buy into these days, and fashion’s eyeing M&A back. Carven’s looking for investors, as are The Kooples.

Jessica Chastain poses for YSL Beauty’s first campaign of 2014 for the Manifesto L’Éclat fragrance, styled by Hedi Slimane in a very revealing Saint Laurent dress.

Italian leather handbag company Furla is making the push for lifestyle.

Fashion mourns Dolores J. Barrett, formerly Polo Ralph Lauren’s SVP Global Public Relations, who died at home on December 24. She kept her age private.

STYLE SCOOP: Selling Saint Laurent, CFDA Improves NYFW, and More

Investing in fashion: Moncler’s shares shot up 39% already – too quickly, according to the chief of the Italian stock market.

TGFCFDA (Thank god for CFDA): The CFDA is teaming up with Fashion Calendar and Ruth Finley to provide editors and CFDA members with a more organized calendar of shows and presentations, organized by men’s/women’s wears, presentation/show, time and venue. It’s part of an overarching effort to improve the entire fashion week experience – improvements that are much needed. This will all come into effect by the February shows.

In opening news: Rick Owens set up camp in Miami with a new Design District shop. Miansai bowed in SoHo.

Saint Laurent problemsJust because all the fashion folk are taking issue with Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent, doesn’t mean his collections aren’t still selling out. Granted, he’s making limited quantities of those multi-thousand dollar grungy sweaters, but accessories are another story entirely. And they’re selling out, too.

Chanel apologizes: Kind of. A rep apologized for Fashionista’s “misinterpretation” of the Metier d’Art show, which included model Caroline de Maigret in a Native American headdress.

FOMO Major: The NYT finally delves into our terrible, awful, Instagram-induced FOMO.

3-D’s the thing: Fashion takes to 3-D for jewelry, and even a pair of Victoria’s Secret angel wings. Shapeways leads the way.

Image: Saint Laurent pre fall

Copy Pasting the ’90s

A trip to Zara feels like a trip to H&M feels like a trip to Mango – which all feels like a trip down Saint Laurent’s fall 2013 runway. It all brings you back to a simpler time when pagers were a luxury and the sound of dial up was so progressive.  It feels as if the only difference now is that we are listening to a house remix of “Smells like Teen Spirit” and Courtney Love has been replaced by Miley Cyrus. We may not be experiencing temporary amnesia despite the obvious indicators, e.g. the overabundance of flannel shirts, plaid skirts, and studded boots, but rather the direct effect of digital photography and online archives on fashion. High end and high street designers embraced the ‘90s grunge trend with such ardent enthusiasm that it is hard to tell whether some of the lines were vaguely reimagined or just copy pasted.

Yes, the world of fashion is nostalgic, but where past spring’s runways merely evoked the sentiment of the 1920s with flapper dresses reinterpreted in newer cuts and fresh materials, the grunge trend feels far too similar to its origins. It’s hard to imagine Louise Brooks feeling at home in one of Gucci’s variations of the flapper dress, but it’s easy to see Courtney Love in any one of the plaid dresses in Saint Laurent’s windows (actually she looked right at home starring in the campaign.)

Fashion has always been cyclical in nature (a myriad of parliament members called, they want last seasons ruffles back) but have we just become the ‘90s younger sister who took the hand me downs straight from the closet? It seems that the ease in which we can take and share photos has in some ways stunted creative and artistic freedom. Rather than having to reinvent a trend due to an absence of details, designers can pull up high-resolution photo archives of entire collections with a click and just work from there. Knowing exactly how something was made, how it looked and felt, eliminates any need for interpretation or imagination. As the gap between creation and its inspiration becomes smaller, the need for assiduous reinvention becomes greater. Will we be living in big sis’s shadow for now on (Stephanie Tanner, anyone?)

So what next? A renaissance in the creative process? A call to glean inspiration from beyond the fashion archives? I would like to think that as the effect of technology become more and more apparent that designers will find new and innovative ways to create. Throw out the hand me downs and look for something that is our own. Maybe a revolution in the infamous cycle of fashion? Next fall we’ll probably be in fun fur and crop tops, fondly remembering the days around Y2K.