Paul Surridge Appointed New Creative Director of Roberto Cavalli

Photo: @Roberto_Cavalli on Instagram

English designer Paul Surridge has been tapped to replace Peter Dundas as Creative Director of Roberto Cavalli, joining the Milan-based fashion house immediately. Surridge’s first show with the label will be for Milan Fashion Week, showcasing the Spring ’18 collection this September.

While you may not be super familiar with Surridge’s work, he’s actually massively qualified for the post, having worked with some of the industry’s most well-known power players, like Calvin Klein and Burberry. He was the design director for menswear at Jil Sander for four years, and also served as Creative Director for Z Zegna.

In a statement, Surridge’s enthusiasm reflected his long career in the business:

“I am honoured and proud to carry forward the legacy of this extraordinary Italian house. This is a unique opportunity to contribute a new chapter to the Roberto Cavalli universe, which positively celebrates the beauty, sensuality and power of women. It is my intention to show the passion I share for the codes and vision on which Roberto Cavalli built his brand while celebrating the excellence of Italian craftsmanship.”

Gian Giacamo Ferraris, CEO of Roberto Cavalli, told Business of Fashion: “We met a lot of candidates, a lot of them showed great creative potential, which made the decision not easy, but the [reason] we selected Paul is that next to his distinctive creative quality, he show a strong interest in further developing the code of the house.”

Lessons from Milan: Dress for the Job You Want (No Job at All)

Dress for the job you want not the job you have. For those who want to skip work all together to hang on yachts, private jets, other *glam* forms of transportation, we have Milans fashion week. It’s v rich, v sexy, v fun. The Milan girl is a diva, but she is also high drama (like red bottoms and a bandage dress simply don’t have enough of a narrative for her). In my opinion the Milan girl is really smart in an unexpected way and I always go owff for her look. Let me elaborate on who the she is.

Emilio Pucci
The Pucci woman tried pot a couple times and it wasn’t her thing, but she’s not mad about it. Her husband, however, had a big stoner phase in college and is still known to have an occasional puff. With the legalization of marijuana in Colorado, the couple relocated to Aspen where he is now making their millions in the marijuana industry. As for his wife, she’s the vice president of the company and she’s spending her cut of the profits on Pucci.

Giorgio Armani
Okay so she LOVES The Great Gatsby. The movie, not the book. That’s about it.

Roberto Cavalli 
Her boyfriend’s in a band, he plays guitar while she sings Lou Reed. His band has a lot of radio popularity, but isn’t very good. He probably sings that “Why you gotta be so rude?” song. Nonetheless she insists he is a rockstar and strives to be the Bianca to his Mick.

Versace
She is kind of like the Cavalli girl except it is all about EDM instead of rock ‘n’ roll. She doesn’t want any of your molly, but she’s backstage at the rave puffing on an e-cig and taking selfies. She looks great.

The Milan girl, she’s so cool.

Roberto Cavalli Opens a Restaurant: A Conversation With the Fashion Icon

New Yorkers are caught up in last minute frenzy of shopping and holiday plans. Christmas will bring a great silence to the streets, clubs, and restaurants as people spend time with their family and friends. Then, it’s a race to New Years Eve. It happens every year, and it will happen again this year and next as well. Flights are booked to warm exotic places as most choose to watch the ball drop on TV. Miami is one of the best places to say goodbye to last and hello to next.

One of the places that seems most intriguing is the New Year’s Eve is the opening of Roberto Cavalli’s restaurant Cavalli Miami Restaurant & Lounge (150 Ocean Drive.) The legendary fashion designer has gone all in creatively to bring us a place that reflects his perfected aesthetic. From the release:

The restaurant space is recreated to show his intimate private life, a very warm and welcoming design, reminiscent of his villa in Tuscany.

Cavalli Miami  features wine from Tenuta dgeli Dei an estate in Florence which has been owned by the Cavalli family for three decades. The estate produces great Tuscan wine as well as competitive trotter horses. It is mainly operated By Roberto’s son Tomasso. I caught up with Roberto Cavalli and asked him all about it. I left the original Italian translation in because I think it’s so sexy.

Is design universally applicable? If one can design a dress they can design a restaurant. For example a dress may be worn a few times but a restaurant must be durable and materials used need more permanence. Tell me about your experience as a restaurant designer.

Il design è applicabile a livello universale? Se una persona è capace di fare un abito, sono in grado di fare anche un ristorante. Per esempio, un abito può essere indossato più volte, ma in un ristorante i materiali usati devono essere durevoli. Raccontami della tua esperienza di stilista ristoratore.

Roberto Cavalli: Fashion and décor are undeniably intertwined in many different ways. Interior decorating and design expresses the most intimate and personal side of each of us. I love style and I believe it was only a natural passage for me to go from fashion to design, and especially to branch out into the hospitality division. It was simply a matter of timing and deciding how to share my inspirations. Cavalli is not only a fashion brand, it is a lifestyle. As a restaurant designer, there are so many materials, designs and aspects which have to be chosen during the design phases. For example I love to experiment, mix and match textiles and colors. I love to see what I can achieve and the new design limits I can surpass. As a restaurant designer I wanted to achieve and offer the experience imaginable: something unexpected which could not be forgotten.

How long have you wanted to express yourself in this way?
Da quanto tempo volevi esprimerti in questo modo?

RC: For a long time. But in this case, as in many others, timing is everything. Also, I am a true perfectionist. Therefore, I wanted everything to be flawless. There were so many things which had to be taken into consideration.

Cavalli Restaurant & Lounge Miami - Lounge

Will you be at this restaurant often. It is described to me to have a feeling like your home—will you be “home” often
Sarai spesso al ristorante? Hai detto che lo senti come casa tua, sarai a casa spesso quindi?

RC: I will definitely try to come back as often as I can. I love Miami and I love seeing my concepts develop into reality.

Did you get involved with staffing, uniforms and such details?
Sei stato coinvolto anche nella selezione dello staff, delle uniformi ed altri aspetti simili?

RC: I tried to be involved in every single aspect. As I said before, I am a perfectionist and I want to supervise and be a part of everything regarding my projects and my ventures!

So who will enjoy this restaurant?
Chi verrà in quest ristorante?

RC: All people who love to live well and who like to have an unforgettable time. Those who love glamour, elegance and want to be surrounded by love.

Miami has a vibrant nightlife scene which I’m sure the lounge will embrace. Do you have a feel whether or not the brand is exportable to places like Las Vegas or New York or Milan or Paris?
Miami ha un fortissimo spirito di nightlife, che sono certa il lounge sarà in grado di soddisfare. Credi il brand sia esportabile altrove in luoghi come Las Vegas, New York, Milano o Parigi?

RC: I personally think my brand is exportable anywhere in the world, and I actually I already have the Just Cavalli Club in Milan, which is one of the best in Italy. I have always been very successful in my business ventures and believe it will be that way still for many years to come.

Cavalli Miami - Restaurant

Your fashion brand has a great deal of caché. Fashion defines itself by the season—it grows and changes. How do you sit with the more permanent aspect of hospitality design. Is it enough that the menu changes?

Il tuo marchio di moda è molto importante e la moda si definisce stagione per stagione. Come riesci a coniugare l’aspetto più permanente del design nel settore dell’hospitality? E’ abbastanza che cambi solo il menu?

RC: Hospitality is a very tricky business. You need to know to develop a certain knowledge and expertise in order to be successful and to be a lasting establishment.

I see the opening is slated for NYE. Tell me about NYE, why open on that day?
Vedo che l’opening è prevista per Capodanno. Perchè hai deciso di aprire quel giorno

RC: NYE is such an important occasion to celebrate. It is the end of a year, which has just passed and the opportunity to share your joy with loved ones in the hopes of an even better year to come.

What are your personal favorite dishes?
Il tuo piatto preferito?
Salted fish—an incredible and very simple recipe.

Christmas Glittering background. Holiday abstract texture

For New Year’s Eve info Patrick Lingle at 786.236.0876 or via email at patrick@cavallimiami.com. 

STYLE SCOOP: Fighting Words from Roberto Cavalli, New from A.L.C. and Eddie Borgo

Breaking: Effective immediately, Matthew Singer resigns from his post as men’s fashion director of Neiman Marcus, a title he held since 2012 when he made the move to Neiman’s from Bloomingdale’s.

Them’s Fighting Words: Italian designer Roberto Cavalli made it clear on this recent New York trip that he doesn’t care for American fashion in the slightest. According to the Italian, we’re sadly, “negatively” wearing black to look thinner. He also asks Michael Kors to please stop copying him. But I can’t remember the last time a Michael Kors put a slinky (to put it nicely), thigh-high slitted, multi-animal-printed dress on the runway. You know?

HBD Eddie Borgo: The jewelry designer’s collection turns five, and in celebration, he’s unveiled a revamped website. The website will be Eddie Borgo exclusive inclusive.

A.L.C. is Launching Bags: and they are pretty! Six styles will be offered, beginning in January.

Jewels for LV: Louis Vuitton is bringing jewelry designer Camille Miceli back into the fold after a few years at Christian Dior, where she focused on costume jewelry. She’ll operate in a similar capacity with Louis Vuitton beginning after the couture collections.

Agency for Sale: IMG will be bought by Silver Lake and William Morris Endeavors, bringing a whole lotta models (like Karlie Kloss) and athletes into WME’s entertainment fold. IMG is going for about $2.4 billion.

MacGil: Gillis MacGil, a supermodel before the term extisted, has died. She was 85.

Party With Cavalli

Recession? What recession? Designer Roberto Cavalli is carrying on like it’s still the mid-aughts by teaming up with Pragma Group to open five Cavalli Clubs and 15 Cavalli Cafés over the next five years, according to WWD. Cavalli hopes this new business venture “will further expand the network of clubs for entertaining my followers in some of the most important cities in the world.” For now the city sites include locations across the Middle East, Southeast Asia, and South America, including Beirut, Istanbul, Mumbai, Shanghai, and São Paulo.

According to WWD, Cavalli’s first Cavalli Club opened in December 2008 in Florence in a 15th-century deconsecrated church with a lounge bar and a restaurant, followed in May 2009 by the opening of a club in Dubai, which, with its opulent Italian restaurant, sushi bar, and nightclub, cost almost $30 million.

There’s No Shame in Winter Sunglasses

Sunglasses are not only for sunny days. If you have sensitive eyes like me, the wind, cold, and atmosphere can make your eyes red and watery. I almost always have to wear sunglasses outside solely to protect my eyes. During the wintertime it can be tricky on gloomy days. People look at you like either, a: you think you’re too cool, b: you had a rough night of partying, or c: you may be, or you just think you are, a celebrity. None of which is true. I also have good vision, so I don’t have regular eyeglasses to use. I’m sure I can’t be the only person in this position. So what is a sensitive-eyed girl to do on a dark winter day? The answer is ditch the black Jackie O’s (for now) and go for a pair with a lighter frame and light lenses. Like these Roberto Cavalli Chain-Embellished Visor Sunglasses, $171.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Aviator Sunglasses, $98. image

Ray-Ban Silver Craft Aviator Sunglasses, $190. image

Top 3: Erin Wasson

There’s not much Erin Wasson hasn’t done. She’s styled two seasons for designer and friend Alexander Wang, launched her own jewelry line, called LowLuv, and designed collections for RVCA. Oh, and she’s a supermodel with renowned personal style, which looks like the visual equivalent of what a fusion of psychedelic, folk, and tribal beats must sound like. “Music is one of my greatest inspirations,” says Wasson. I love afro-funk and old school soul. I love this ’70s psychedelic band from Nigeria called BLO. I also like some good old country, like Candi Staton and Wanda Jackson. My music taste is all over the place – just like my style!”

While building her brand, Wasson found the time to make trips down the runway at Paris Fashion Week to honor a few notable designers. “You do the ones you love, that inspire you,” she explains. “Hermes was Jean Paul Gaultier’s last season so it was a bit of a beautiful farewell. And Chanel, well, is there ever a reason not to spend time with Karl Lagerfeld? Being in his presence makes you a more enlightened person.” Not that the girl needs any more creative juice. Whether it’s returning to her Venice Beach home with a fully-functional treehouse and skate ramp (“I go to Los Angeles to escape the New York chaos – it’s like a yin and yang for me), or returning to her Texas roots in Austin (“That city is full of music and magic”), Wasson is and always will be a free bird. So what project might she be taking under her wing next? “Maybe housewares,” she hints. “There’s an interior designer inside me dying to get out!”

image

1. Vanessa BrunoFall/Winter 2010 – Shearling Jacket – “I love the color and that it’s a modern version of a ranch-style jacket.”

2. Free PeopleSnakeskin Cowboy Boots – “These are the perfect vintage cowboy boots!”

3. Roberto CavalliFall/Winter 2010 – Complete Collection – “I love the Renaissance vibe and the throwback to the good old days.”

Photo of Erin Wasson by Hanneli Mustaparta

Varvatos & Cavalli Join the Blogosphere

Designers John Varvatos and Roberto Cavalli have started blogging — although, sadly, not together. The former, a notorious audiophile (who has enlisted everyone from Iggy Pop to Dave Navarro to star in his fashion ad campaigns), has, appropriately, launched a music blog. Called JVS’ Funhouse, the hodgepodge of coverage includes photos from backstage at Varvatos’ recent menswear runway show and images from Guns ‘N Roses’ performance at the Varvatos store this past Fashion Week. As it evolves, expect “a music centric blog highlighting the designer’s trips to concerts, festivals, parties and backstage jam sessions around the world,” says Antimusic. Also included: posts to Varvatos’ monthly show on SIRIUS XM’s Faction channel called Born In Detroit, an homage to the designer’s hometown.

Roberto Cavalli launched his own blog on March 15, with a revamped namesake site to follow at the end of the month. In the meantime, the Cavalli hopes to “put the Cavalli Maison in direct contact with its fans, with the chance to share its unique fashion and lifestyle concept” via celebrities in Cavalli photos and news and event updates. I for one am particularly intrigued by the ‘love‘ section on the site.

So far there’s only one post from Cavalli himself that reads, “this is my way to feel close to you, to talk with you, to listen and advise, to share with you my successes and sometimes my problems.” He adds:

I will show you that maybe I am as you dreamed but like all humans I have my weaknesses. I also have my dreams. We’ll talk about this wonderful world which our very mindsets are bringing low. We’ll talk about your problems, whether you are young, or old like me. How to combat violence and how to gain respect by respecting others. I will try to make you smile, not with fairy tales but with real stories of my life. A long life, full of emotions and adventures. I am here to prod you, to help and encourage you. Do not forget that I love you!