Runway Rundown: All The Best From Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear, Resort and Fall ’18 Couture

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Valentino Fall ’18 Couture

 

A lot has happened on the runway over the last few weeks. There was Paris Couture Week; before that, some designers showed their Spring ’19 collections; and in between all of those, there was Resort (which we don’t usually care for, but this season had one great moment). So, we don’t blame you if you’ve missed some things. And because we love you, we’re going to be your fashion fairy godmothers, and round up everything you need to see if you haven’t already (and if you have, all of the amazing things you should look at again). Below, our favorite runway moments — or, as we like to call them, the only ones worth mentioning.

 

Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear:

Spring can be really boring. I mean, florals, for Spring? Groundbreaking. No, but seriously, it can really hard to re-invent the wheel when that wheel is a limited range of flowing skirts, mini dresses and caftans. That’s why our favorite brands threw out seasonal rules altogether and did things like patent leather and hoodies.

 

Alyx

 

For Matthew Williamson’s first ever runway show for his four-year-old brand Alyx (or, as its named now, 1017 Alyx 9SM for Williamson’s birthday and the location of his first studio at 9 Saint Marks), the designer went all out. Instead of debuting a ton of cliche Spring pieces, like bathing suits and floral dresses, the collection looked almost as if it could’ve been for Fall. With a post-apocalyptic vibe perfect for our current political climate, Willliamson’s pieces looked like a uniform for, albeit incredibly fashionable, anti-fascist soldiers. Sign me up.

 

Vetements

 

VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019 – WATCH THE OFFICIAL VIDEO – LINK IN THE PROFILE

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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For fashion world darling Demna Gvasalia’s turn on the runway, the designer paid homage to his home country, Georgia. Gvasalia casted the show with all Georgian teenagers, and took the opportunity to teach fashion insiders about the current political turmoil happening in the region. In fact, each piece from the collection comes with a giant bar code, that once scanned with your iPhone, will open an app that features facts about the country. And as much as I want to hate Vetements, I wish I could afford to pay $1,000 for a sweatshirt.

 

Kenzo

 

Prints, prints, prints. #KENZOSS19

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Kenzo S/S ’19 was all about prints. Gingham, checks, polka-dots, snakeskin — you name it, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon designed it, and styled it together. The whole maximalist, should-be-clashing-but-instead-looks amazing thing has always been Kenzo’s vibe, but each season Lim and Leon seem to do it better and better. After last year’s Spring collection, I really thought the brand had reached their peak, but this season even makes me want to wear color.

 


 

Resort:

Honestly, I shouldn’t have even included Resort on this list, since it’s really not a list – it’s just Miu Miu.

 

Miu Miu

 

If Miu Miu’s Resort ’19 collection was bad, it truly wouldn’t have even mattered. With a casting like the one they had at The Regina Hotel in Paris last week, including Rowan Blanchard, Kaia Gerber, Uma Thurman, Chloe Sevigny and Naomi Campbell, no one would have even noticed the clothes. But we did, because the collection was perfect. Kind of preppy, but with a race car driver-meets-Valley of the Dolls-meets-Maui sort of look, the Miu Miu collection was what Miuccia Prada still does best, even after all these years: it was fun, it was free, and somehow, between all the clashing prints and furry heels, it was still subtle.

 


 

Fall ’18 Couture:

Couture is all about fantasy; it’s about staring at beautiful clothes you desperately want but have absolutely nowhere to wear them to. When it came to this year’s Couture Week, our favorite designers didn’t let us down, delivering some of the dreamiest collections we’ve ever seen grace the runway. I mean, Kaia Gerber at Valentino. Enough said. But don’t worry, we’ll say more anyway.

 

Chanel

 

For his Fall ’18 Chanel couture show, Karl Lagerfeld paid homage to Paris. Honestly, everything the guy does is good, and the fact that he’s still able to send tweed two-pieces down the runway, and make them look good — well, that alone, proves he’s a genius. In addition to his love of Paris, the designer built this collection around what he calls the “high profile” — long skirts that unzip to show thigh-bearing minis underneath. “You can wear it zipped down when you visit your banker, no?” he told Vogue. “And zipped up when you see your lover after!”

 

Valentino

 

At this point, there’s no way you haven’t seen at least one photo from the Valentino couture show. Images of Kaia Gerber in her amazing beehive have literally been flooding the internet. But for once, the talk is true and all the hype is worth it. The Valentino collection was the MVP of Couture Week — and maybe all of 2018. Obviously, Pat McGrath and Guido Palau killed it with the beauty; but the collection itself was completely breathtaking. I mean, the models looked like actual angels floating down the runway in their billowy gowns and floral headdresses.

 

Fendi

 

 

Fendi always knows what they’re doing. For their couture collection, the brand took a step back from the logomania that’s taken over their last few seasons, and created a ’60s-inspired ode to fur. While a lot of the industry has vowed to go fur free, Lagerfeld has doubled down with Fendi. Though the collection included bits of actual fur, it was more about the ways in which he treated other fabrics that created a sort of gaudy (but in a good way), glam feel that I totally could’ve imaged Liz Taylor or Anne Welles in.

 

Margiela

 

Discover highlights from our Autumn-Winter 2018 ‘Artisanal’ Collection designed by @jgalliano: The nomadic idea of taking life on the road is conveyed in abundant layering where garments interweave and mutate. #maisonmargiela #artisanal #artisanalartistry – Music: “Unchained Melody” Written By: Alex North & Hy Zaret Courtesy Unchained Melody Publishing LLC – Black Saturn, Nicholas Hill, Luciano Ugo Rossi, Glenn Herweijer; Ben Sumner. KPM Music When The Clock Stops, Nikky French. KPM Music Breakacuda,Benjamin Medcalf. Anger Music Circus Caravan MYMA. Justement Music Flight Remembered, Nicholas Hill, Glen Herweijer, Ben Sumner. KPM Music The Arrival, David James Caton, Harry Valentine. Anger Music Etude in e major, Frederic Chopin, Tolga Kashif, KPM Music Warhammer, Darren Mudge. Anger Music Arrangement : Jeremy Healy

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Galliano went all Fifth Element for his latest Margiela Artisanal collection (he’s too cool for couture, natch). Using VR headsets and iPhones as accessories, the designer sent a retro-futuristic, technology-obsessed collection down the runway. And hey, since people are already attached to their phones, physically adhering them to our outfits seems like a natural next step. That, or we’re going to war with aliens and Galliano is designing the outfits.

 

Viktor and Rolf

 

To celebrate their 25 years together, Viktor & Rolf decided to take 25 of the brand’s most iconic looks, and update them for their Fall ’18 couture collection. That update meant turning everything white and covering them in Swarovski crystals. Though I’ve always been a fan of Viktor & Rolf, there’s literally nothing more perfect than the bed dresses they originally created for their Fall ’05 collection — or, at least, I thought, until I saw this season’s iteration, complete with white bedazzled pillows and a down evening dress. Sigh. This is what dreams are made of.

 

Photos & Video: Instagram

Take a Mental Vaca with JC de Castelbajac’s Resort Collection

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Stuck at your desk? Take a mental vacation with JC de Castelbajac’s resort 2015 collection. The picturesque patterns and cuts are a welcome retreat from city life. A chic, relaxed vibe emanates from the Riviera-inspired collection. Think umbrella patterns, open basket weaves, and seascapes all contained in a single shirt.

JC de Castelbajac’s new take on classic timeless pieces is a strike between elegant and carefree. There’s youth and whimsy, done up in a Parisian bow.

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After yesterday’s presentation, the party continued at Acme. Olivier Zahm, Chelsea Leyland, Genevieve Jones, Casey Neistat and more showed up to toast the collection.

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Party photos courtesy of BFA 

Rome Opening: Gran Melia Rome

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This sexy new Gran Melia Rome hotel is an instant magnet for those seeking a truly contemporary luxury experience in the Italian capital. It’s something of an urban oasis, as much a resort as a hotel, with sprawling grounds boasting a river and a serenely located swimming pool. Rooms are done up in classy, muted color schemes, and each floor represents a different classically- inspired art theme.

But Gran is also aiming to seriously up the epicurean quotient of the Eternal City’s hotel scene, with Michelin-starred chef Alfonso Iaccarino helming the Vivavoce gastronomic Mediterranean restaurant, in addition to a more casual poolside eatery and lounge, and a gorgeous panoramic roof garden. A YHI Wellness area offers personalized training and beauty services, as well as a dip in the "Vitality" pool.

Industry Insiders: Michael Capponi, Club Kid on a Goodwill Mission

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Like the city he hails from, Michael Capponi’s life is a story of triumph over adversity. Credited as the man who helped land Miami’s South Beach on the jet-set party map by promotiing such influential nightclubs as Warsaw and B.E.D. Miami, Capponi battled addiction and health problems until a successful stint in rehab gave him a new lease on life. His career has taken off from there, with his development company, Capponi Group, and club ventures like The Wall at W South Beach, and pool parties at the Mondrian. But after spending months in Haiti assisting with the 2010 earthquake recovery effort, Capponi decided to build a hotel there, creating a world-class destination for vacationers, while giving locals opportunities to rebuild their lives as he himself has done. 

What has turned your attention to humanitarian work?
In the mid-nineties I dealt with a lot of personal and life-altering things, ranging from major drug addiction to brain surgery and ending up in the streets for a stint. Since my recovery in 1999, I have really tried to contribute to good causes and have lived with a motto of " duty first."
 
Has your career in nightlife helped you with your efforts in Haiti?
While nightlife remains a somewhat controversial topic, it has opened more doors for me than anything I have ever done. In over 20 years in nightlife, I have had the opportunity to meet thousands of people, presidents, dignitaries, celebrities, moguls, developers, publishers etc. When you start looking and connecting all the dots, you realize that all those relationships can really serve Haiti in a big way.
 
How are you putting those skills acquired during your club days to work? 
I think my main skill set is that I’m hands-on. Also, I understand development as a developer but, most importantly, I understand the art of rebranding, PR, and promotions. It’s all these key factors that are needed to help recreate a positive image for the new Haiti.
 
Are you worried that our attention on Haiti is waning?
No, I don’t see Haiti being forgotten. There was too much money donated and too much media and celebrity attention devoted to it. People like Donna Karan and Sean Penn continue being in the headlines, reminding people how important it is to stay focused on that island.
 
What is your plan of action there?
After 18 aid trips, I realized that Haiti needs to be fixed in a completely different manner. I’m developing a hotel on the southern coastline of Haiti, in Jacmel, where my focus will lay on creating tourism there, while preserving the local culture. Really, I thought about a hotel to create jobs there, and give tourists a nice place to stay when visiting. It maybe a small model, but with it I hope to lead the country into the world of self-sustainability.

The Resort Report: Bandeaus & Nipple Baring

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‘Tis Resort (or Cruise, or Pre-Spring, depending on what you prefer to call it) season, which means fashion houses are highlighting soon-to-ship deliveries of late-summer appropriate styles. While most designers—save for the likes of Galliano for Dior, de la Renta, and Lagerfeld for Chanel—tend to avoid runway productions for this in-between season, sites like Style.com and Coutorture have taken to publishing Resort look books, putting the mini-collections nearly on par with Spring and Fall. In reality, most Pre-Spring collections are a continuation of fall trends, though in some cases they can shed light on what consumers can expect for Spring. While Alexander Wang went for suburban chic, many other designers, like Christopher Bailey for Burberry Prosum, have debuted decidedly urban, sleek resort wear for 2011.

Meanwhile, far less sidewalk-ready were the bandeau tops and bare midriffs at Zero + Maria Cornejo and YSL (the latter topped looks off with demure black turbans). Vena Cava opted for a similarly flesh-friendly approach with a mesh tank styled with nothing underneath. As I’ve noted in the past, this doesn’t necessarily mean Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai are embracing nipples for mid-season. Rather, as Evianna Hartman of Bodkin clarified back at SS10 fashion week, most often exposed nipples on a runway are there merely to highlight the garment, not to sanction going sans bra.

Alexander Wang Expands, Serves Up Suburban Chic

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Alexander Wang is showing no signs of slowing down. In fact, all eyes are on the 26-year-old designer as Wang, who just debuted a suburban chic-inspired resort line, was nominated alongside Marc Jacobs and Donna Karan for the coveted title of CFDA women’s wear designer of the year for 2010. Even so, the fledgling talent doesn’t seem to be resting on any laurels; since launching his lusted-after women’s line a few years ago, Wang’s added men’s wear, a diffusion line, and accessories to his empire—along with the occasional collaboration. Now, the Young Turk is looking to appease older, more conservative clientele (an approach Wang likewise took with his FW10 collection, which was inspired by Wall Street). “After last season we started looking at our carry-over business, what our customers come back for again and again,” Wang, who will launch a basics line later this year, told Women’s Wear Daily of the new collection.

According to Wang in WWD, “The new line, which will start with a tightly edited range of three pants, two jackets and one flat-front shirt,” is a way of going more democratic. That, and it broadens the demographic range to which his designs appeal—considering his brand is as recognizable as ever, this can only mean a boost in profits.

Meanwhile, in other Wang news: the designer has premiered his Resort 2011 collection, which is chock-full of looks not exactly fit for the older, office-going customers likely to be fans of his not-yet-launched basics line. “With notions of farms and handmade items in mind, for resort Alexander Wang explored the ‘suburban’ or rather ‘not urban,’ as he corrected, side of his sensibility,” says WWD of the collection. This includes 90s-appropriate cropped knit tops (with models sporting a single Angela Chase-approved braid), plenty of pleated skirts, and earth tones like khaki. And, since fashion somehow still hasn’t gotten over its bizarre hosiery fetish du jour: white socks with burgundy open-toed sandals. Put simply, it’s a style that screams Lolita-meets-Chloe Sevigny’s ‘Big Love’ Mormon chic.

Alexander Wang’s Resort 2011 pictured at left; Wang’s Essentials collection pictured at right. Photos by John Aquino via WWD.