Is it Fall Yet? Our Favorite NYFW Collections We Can’t Wait to Wear

Alexander Wang F/W ’18

 

Is it just us or is fall fashion just so much better than spring? That was definitely the case at the NYFW FW18 shows the past two weeks. And so while most New Yorkers might be pining for spring sunshine throughout this temperamental (but mostly cold) Northeast winter, we find ourselves counting down the days until September finally returns, and we can look cute again.

From Matrix-inspired office wear at Alexander Wang to ’80s power suits at Marc Jacobs and ’00s-era Paris Hilton puppy vibes at Gauntlett Cheng, we’ve compiled here our favorite Fashion Week moments – plus two honorable mentions because, well, we just couldn’t bear to narrow it down.

 

Alexander Wang

 

 

We’ve loved Alexander Wang since he first debuted his part minimalist, part rock ‘n’ roll It-girl uniforms; but we have to say, the last few seasons have left us with a never-ending #WANGOVER. This season, though, the San Fransisco born designer channeled The Matrix-meets-The Office, delivering a range of post-apocalyptic professional wear that we want every piece of – especially, the fur-lined ’90s CK-inspired undies.

 

Marc Jacobs

 

 

Marc Jacobs is basically the Alexander Wang of the late ’90s. So, needless to say, we’re giant fans. But much like last season’s awful #WANGOVER, Marc has fallen off a bit the last few years. I mean, remember the dreadlocks fiasco? Still, it seams Jacobs got the memo (or finally found it again), and this season felt like a return to form. Part ’80s power suit, part goth noir, the Marc Jacobs FW18 collection felt like Bianca Jagger in her white suit days, if she had Grace Jones’ attitude and Siouxsie’s sense of color. What more could you possibly as for?

 

Eckhaus Latta

 

 

One of fashion’s favorite new brands, Eckhaus Latta has mastered minimalism in its purest form. For their FW18 collection, designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta built upon the easy going feel of their last few seasons, but experimented more with shape and color than they ever have before. While the knits and sheer dresses fit right into the Eckhaus Latta playbook, bright yellow flowy fabrics were a new look for the brand. Overall, the collection was bold but understated, yet what Eckhaus Latta does best isn’t actually their clothes. Season after season, and despite its growing popularity, the brand remains dedicated to its outsider ethos. And did we mention their casting always rules? This season saw a diverse runway filled with New York City favorites, including model Paloma Elsesser and indie rock royalty Coco Gordon-Moore.

 

Tom Ford

 

 

Nobody does sleek and sexy like Tom Ford. This season, the designer went all in with leopard print, mixing loud colors with the even louder print in all different sizes from head-to-toe. Not only did each look feel totally timeless, you’ve got to give it to someone who can make lime green or bright red leopard print look not only classy, but cool.

 

Chromat

 

 

Another one of the fashion industry’s favorite young designers, Becca McCharen-Tran built Chromat to empower women of all shapes, sizes and colors. While most brands have embraced a long overdue push for diversity on the runway (not looking at you, Stefano Gabbana), Chromat also delivers it IRL. With a focus on emerging technology and body positivity, the label pushes boundaries and challenges the fashion status quo. For her latest collection, McCharen stuck with oranges and neons, accessorizing each look with Flaming Hot Cheeto bags tied to models’ pants and in their hands. Rapper Slay Rizz finished out the show with a killer performance in an orange two-piece by Chromat, and even though we didn’t get any cheese puffs to go, we were sold.

 

Dion Lee

 

 

Since launching his eponymous label in 2009, Australian designer Dion Lee has consistently delivered classic yet forward-thinking clothing, with his FW18 collection serving as further proof of his talent. Outfitting traditional sportswear looks with architectural bra-tops, it seems Lee also watched The Matrix and The Office before designing his collection. But unlike Wang’s, the Dion Lee range felt modern, not futuristic – the Neo influence was subtle. Lee also brought in more feminine elements, juxtaposing the structured suits and tops with flowy skirts.

 

Gypsy Sport

 

 

Ever since winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2015, Rio Uribe has been making waves with his brand Gypsy Sport. Inspired by New York City, Uribe turned heads last year when he decided to present his Spring collection in Paris. But for FW18, Uribe returned to the city, thank god. Other than that, though, this was an all new Gypsy Sport. Over the last few years, the brand has become recognizable for their upcycled jerseys and I <3 NY logo tees, with the Gypsy Sport name in place of the heart. This season, Uribe ditched the streetwear element, presenting a romantic collection filled with suits and gothic ruffles, as well as a few sustainable aluminum looks. Of course, the designer stuck to his habit of using friends and members of the LGBTQ community as models, including 10-year-old activist and drag star Desmond is Amazing, who stole the show (and probably all of Fashion Week). Known for his willingness to experiment, it’s hard to tell whether this collection was a one-off, or the evolution of the brand. Either way, it doesn’t really matter, because whatever Gypsy Sport does is really, really good.

 

Adam Selman

 

 

Another CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund alum, Adam Selman won Fashion Week in our book. The FW18 collection was kinky, it was campy, it was part John Waters, part new wave, it was punk as fuck. Featuring a collaboration with artist Cheyco Leidmann, who created the surrealist prints Selman used on dresses and shirts, the range was bold and colorful, mixing prints, patterns and styles in an ode to photographer Ypsitylla Von Nazareth. In addition to the outfits, Selman also debuted his latest collection for sunglasses brand Le Specs. If you haven’t already been spotting his metallic cat-eyes for the last few years, get ready – this season’s heart-adorned versions are about to be everywhere. We want ours now.

 

Vaquera

 

 

Most people had never heard of New York City brand Vaquera before last NYFW, when they debuted a dress made only of blue and gold credit cards. For some reason, the look ended up on every news outlet, even though it was one of the weakest of the show. (We’re not saying we didn’t like it – we did.) What Vaquera does best is their more subtle work. This season, the designers seemed to realize that as well, presenting a range of deconstructed pieces that were delicate and cool. The highlights: an oversized blazer dress, cropped suit and crazy snakeskin skirt that all looked like they were slightly unfinished, but in reality, took forever to make. And isn’t that the best stuff anyway? The kind that costs, like, $10,000, but looks like you got it in the back of Duane Reade.

 

Calvin Klein

 

 

Oh, Raf. There’s literally nothing he could do at this point that would make us angry, because every collection he sends down the runway is as close to perfect as it gets. After presenting a men’s collection for his namesake label earlier in the week that revolved around Christiane F. and Cookie Mueller’s Drugs, Simons presented a classic Calvin Klein collection that took all of his quirky eccentricities and somehow made them look, well, classic as fuck. I mean, who else could send swimming caps and sweatshirt-less hoodies down the runway, without looking like he’s trying to be avant-garde? No one. And that’s part of his charm. Unlike a lot of of designers who, when they take over a storied brand, start to lose their individual voice, Raf’s seems to get only louder with each season, and we can’t wait to see what happens next.

 

Jeremy Scott

 

 

We have to be honest when we say that we love Moschino, but have never really caught the Jeremy Scott bug. That is, until this season, where Scott went full-on Fifth Element, with futuristic space-inspired looks. For those of you that don’t know, Jean Paul Gaultier did the costumes for The Fifth Element, and it’s basically a 2-hour fashion orgasm. So, when Scott sent Gigi Hadid down the runway in a silver overall dress, pink crop-top and matching pink LeeLoo-inspired wig – well, we almost stood up to give him immediate applause. The rest of the collection was equally amazing, with all of it feeling retro-futuristic without trying too hard. The key was nothing felt too much like a costume, just the uniform for a school in 2064.

 

Honorable Mentions

Telfar

 

 

This was Telfar Clemons’ second collection since winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, and though it was impeccable, it was the presentation that really kicked ass. Following the runway show that saw Clemons’ solidify his gender neutral ’70s aesthetic, singer/performer Dev Hynes, rapper Ian Isiah, Kelela, Oyinda, 070 Shake and Kelsey Lu took the stage for an intimate performance. The result was emotional yet understated, just like the collection itself.

 

Gauntlett Cheng

 

 

We’re big fans of Esther Gauntlett and Jenny Cheng’s self-aware brand that makes clothes for cool girls all over the world. This season, the duo went Westminster – or maybe Paris Hilton circa 2002. Either way, we were obsessed with the high fashion pieces they presented on models and a group of pups.

 

All photos courtesy of Vogue Runway

Raf Simons’ Blade Runner-Inspired Show Stole Men’s Fashion Week

Raf Simons Spring 2018 menswear show yesterday evening – his second time presenting in New York – was a much needed jolt of freshness and excitement amid his largely predictable Men’s Fashion Week peers.

Inspired by the classic 1982 sci-fi film Blade RunnerSimons set his show under the Manhattan Bridge in a nighttime Chinese food market, complete with neon lights, wet pavement, and lanterns printed with imagery from the designer’s collaborator, artist Peter Saville. The latter was responsible for the stark, iconic imagery of those early Joy Division and New Order album covers.

 

 

The audience was standing-only, and more a-list than at much of the week’s previous events: A$AP Rocky, Marc Jacobs, and Julianne Moore were among those in attendance.

Jacobs had told Vogue“I love Raf and he’s a good friend, so I’m very glad he’s here. Although, I saw more of him before he got here than since he’s here . . . but, you know, Raf makes fashion. He’s a creator. So he brings a creativity to American fashion which I think is lacking.”

 

 

The clothes made reference to many signature Simons pieces past, only with a dystopian twist. There were several shiny trenches, printed bucket hats with matching neck ties, shirts bearing the word “Replicant,” as well as off-the-shoulder sweaters, wide-legged trousers, and an excess of plaid patterns. Accessories included, fittingly, galoshes and umbrellas, some with glowing rods, and little pouches in collaboration with Eastpak.

 

 

Soundtrack-wise, the music was a familiar Simons amalgamation of genres that only served to enhance the gritty, action-movie aesthetic of the whole scene.

Raf Simons Wins CFDA Award for Menswear and Womenswear in the Same Year

Photo: @CalvinKlein on Instagram

Last night was a big night for fashion: the 2017 CFDA Awards drew New York City’s most elegantly-dressed into one room, the Hammerstein Ballroom, to honor the minds that have shaped the year’s clothes. Raf Simons made history as the second designer ever, and the first since 1993, to take home Designer of the Year in both Menswear and Womenswear categories. Of course, it’s probably time to start thinking about taking binary gender out of fashion, but that’s an argument for another time.

Simons won the awards in his first year as Creative Director of Calvin Klein, and, fittingly, the previous person to win both was Klein himself, 23 years ago.

“I — we — came to America because America, and you, its people, are inspiring to me…are inspiring to us,” Simons said upon accepting the first of his awards, for Menswear. “If this means we can do something back, and we can inspire, then we are more than happy at Calvin Klein, and thankful at Calvin Klein. It feels like a big welcome.”

Simons has been in his post at the iconic brand for under a year, but already done much to rejuvenate the label’s image. He unveiled a new logo in February and had an incredible Americana-inspired runway show featuring his collections for both sexes on one catwalk. Some of our fave looks from that Ready-to-Wear line:

Look 33, Calvin Klein Fall 2017 Men’s + Women’s RTW. Watch the show at calvinklein.com. #CALVINKLEINFW17

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Look 54, Calvin Klein Fall 2017 Men’s + Women’s RTW. Watch the show at calvinklein.com. #CALVINKLEINFW17

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Take a look at the full list of winners below:

Menswear Designer of the Year:

WINNER: Raf Simons for Calvin Klein

Robert Geller

Thom Browne

Tim Coppens

Todd Snyder

Accessory Designer of the Year:

WINNER: Stuart Vevers for Coach

Irene Neuwirth

Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel for Mansur Gavriel

Paul Andrew

Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row

Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent:

Laura Vassar and Kristopher Brock for Brock Collection

Gabriela Hearst

WINNER: Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia for Monse

Virgil Abloh for Off-White

Sander Lak for Sies Marjan

Womenswear Designer of the Year:

Joseph Altuzarra

WINNER: Raf Simons for Calvin Klein

Marc Jacobs

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler

Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row

Inaugural Swarovski Award for Positive Change

Kenneth Cole 

Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award

Rick Owens

International Award

Demna Gvasalia for Vetements and Balenciaga

The Founder’s Award

Pat McGrath

Board of Directors’ Tribute

Cecile Richards, Gloria Steinem and Janelle Monáe

Fashion Icon Award

Franca Sozzani, Italian Vogue editor-chief, posthumous

Raf Touches Down in New York

Illustration by Hilton Dresden

Six months ago, Calvin Klein announced industry veteran Raf Simons would take over as Chief Creative Officer. Following his abrupt departure from Dior in Fall 2015, Simons would receive full control over clothing, fragrance and advertisement. Relatively quiet since his appointment, Simons has dominated headlines as of late, with a redesigned CK logo and an inspired campaign focusing on American Pop and Modern art. On Friday, though, Simons finally unveiled his first collection for the house.

Inviting press and celebrity clients to the Calvin Klein New York City headquarters in midtown, guests sat beneath a new permanent ceiling installation courtesy of friend and longtime collaborator Sterling Ruby. With a soundtrack consisting of David Bowie’s “This Is Not America” and Virgin Suicides soundbites, Simons showed his expansive take on modern America. Filled with clever anecdotes, including quilted blankets as technical jacket liners, and nylon layered over fur reminiscent of plastic couch covers, the designer presented a European view on Americana in its truest sense. Bold color combinations and minimal designs irking back to his Jil Sander days were just the refresh needed to jolt the poorly performing Calvin Klein Collection line back to life. With full creative control and an inspired first outing, we can’t wait to see what Raf will do next.

Raf Simons Unveils Andy Warhol and Richard Prince Inspired Campaign

All photography by Willy Vandeperre.

Just days ahead of his NYFW debut as Creative Director of Calvin Klein, Raf Simons has dropped a new ad campaign set in front of the iconic artwork of visionaries including Andy Warhol, Richard Prince, and Sterling Ruby.

The campaign is titled ‘American Classics’ and photographed by Willy Vandeperre, with styling by Olivier Rizzo. On CalvinKlein.com, the designer dissects the meaning behind each model(s) paired with each painting. Over Instagram, the label explained that the campaign is “a celebration of Calvin Klein’s iconic underwear and jeans; acknowledging their status as Pop and showing them in the world of art.”

Check out Simons’ art-inspired new campaign in the following slides.

Raf Simons Unveils New Mapplethorpe-Inspired SS17 Campaign

Photo by Willy Vanderperre for Raf Simons.

In the new Raf Simons SS17 campaign, the designer and new Chief Creative Officer of Calvin Klein collaborates with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation, with photography by Willy Vanderperre and styling by Olivier Rizzo. Print’s of Mapplethorpe’s work are incorporated into the designs of his collection, as well as leather hats and belt chokers, a nod to the late photographer’s sexuality. The Mapplethorpe Foundation approached Simons to propose the partnership, and the pair debuted the new collection last summer in Florence.

Simons’ new campaign comes ahead of his much-anticipated menswear show, his first at the helm of Calvin Klein, tomorrow at New York Fashion Week Men’s.

Take a look at the new campaign below.

Raf Simons, ‘I Don’t Want To Do Collections Where I’m Not Thinking’

Last spring, months before Raf Simons announced he’d be stepping down as Creative Director at Dior, the designer agreed to a series of intimate interview with prized fashion critic Cathy Horyn, Business of Fashion reveals.

Caught inside Dior’s unstoppable money-making machine, the pair’s conversations shed light on Simons’ creative suffocation during his time at the European house—his genuine artistry falling second to systematic processes in order to meet strict deadlines. For a dreamy romantic like Simons, such a regimented fast-paced environment became a heavyweight burden, as shown in the following interview excerpts via BOF, below.

On the Dior fall ready-to-wear show:

“You know, we did this collection in three weeks […] Tokyo was also done in three weeks. Actually everything is done in three weeks, maximum five. And when I think back to the first couture show for Dior, in July 2012, I was concerned because we only had eight weeks.”

On the Dior process:

“When you do six shows a year, there’s not enough time for the whole process […] Technically, yes—the people who make the samples, do the stitching, they can do it. But you have no incubation time for ideas, and incubation time is very important. When you try an idea, you look at it and think, Hmm, let’s put it away for a week and think about it later. But that’s never possible when you have only one team working on all the collections.”

On inspiration:

“I just did a show yesterday. Just now, while waiting in the car, I sent four or five ideas to myself by text message, so I don’t forget them. They are always coming […] I was just thinking about this kind of very masculine tailoring you see in the navy. It can be stupid things, like a certain button. But I’ve been doing this my whole life. The problem is when you have only one design team and six collections, there is no more thinking time. And I don’t want to do collections where I’m not thinking.”

On his schedule:

“I have a schedule every day that begins at 10 in the morning and runs through the day, and every, every minute is filled. From 10.10am to 10.30am, it’s shoes, let’s say. From 10.30 to 11.15, it’s jewellery. Everything is timed—the whole week. If there’s a delay in a meeting, the whole day is fucked up.”

On fashion:

“Fashion became pop. I can’t make up my mind if that’s a good or a bad thing. The only thing I know is that it used to be elitist. And I don’t know if one should be ashamed or not to admit that maybe it was nicer when it was more elitist, not for everybody. Now high fashion is for everybody.”

On accessibility:

“Everything is so easily accessible, and because of that you don’t make a lot of effort anymore. When we were young, you had to make up your mind to investigate something—because it took time. You really had to search and dig deep. Now if something interests you, one second later, you can have it. And also one second later you also drop it.”

On personal versus professional life:

“There’s never enough time. You get a tension. I know how to pull out from this in my personal life. We go and look at nature for three hours. It’s heaven. We go to a bakery and buy a bag of stuff and lie in the grass. Sublime. But how to do that in the context of your professional life? You buy a house and you start doing pottery or something?”

The complete text of Cathy Horyn’s interview with Raf Simons appears in the Autumn/Winter 2015 issue of System Magazine.

Insta-Critic: Dior’s Covetable Lucite Boots

At Dior today, the #frow was fully occupied by zooming and snapping pix of Raf Simon’s surefire hot of a boot–latex with lucite heels (both of which which varied in height–the heel, and the boot itself, that is). The collection itself saw creative uses of the season’s favorite: fur, rendered in dresses and extra sumptuous, almost pastel looking colors. The coats stayed classic–think gorgeously tailored dusters, but the clothes themselves combined 60s mod looks with far more futuristic, out-there patterns (some of which came in the form of full out body suits).

Backstage at @dior #aw15 #pfw

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Futuristic prints + longgggg straight hair.

Simply…#jadore @dior #pfw #fall2015

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An it-shoe to be sure.

@dior #Diorshow #pfw

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Mod references.

Another iteration of the latex bootie.

Designer Raf Simons Talks Nerves, Fears, and Getting Emotional for New Documentary “Dior and I”

In an interview with WWD, Christian Dior’s Raf Simons discusses the filming of the documentary “Dior and I” about his coming to the house that will premiere next week at the Tribeca Film Festival. Geniuses get nerves, too.

270 hours of raw footage have been whittled down to the final documentary, a film that Simons found both comforting and emotional. Said Simons, “There was an enormous intimacy in the movie, which I think is also present in Dior, in the company. In the building, there was a strong kind of family feel.”

The filmmaker Frédéric captured Simons’ creative process — so rooted in contemporary art in a house “steeped in tradition” — a process that includes a bit of a temper:
“As he watches the film long afterward, Simons squirms as his anger flares in some scenes…”
… even at Simons notes he appears much more calm then he had envisioned. Wonder what the members of the atelier would have to say about that.
The film premieres on April 17. See stills from the film, below.

dior01
Raf Simons

dior02Members of the atelier

Main image: Dior fall 2014, photo by Guillaume Roujas for nowfashion.com

Stills: Courtesy