Selfridges to Open Agender Pop-Up: Get Ahead with 12 Pieces from Nicopanda, HBA + More

Courtesy of Toogood

London’s Selfridges has announced that come March, Agender will open in their stores, taking up three full, androgynous floors until April. That is to say, neither female nor male mannequins, perfumes on shelves next to shaving kits, and clothes for sale sans gender delineation.

Designers Toogood, VFILES, Nicopanda, Hood by Air, Rad Hourani, Body Map, Comme Des Garcons, Ann Demeulemeester, and Meadham Kirchhoff will all take part.

Unisex clothes are nothing new — for some, there’s nothing more inspiring than Helmut Newton’s le smoking-sporting women — but that was different. It’s been a while since the surge of gender neutrality has been so strong, the look so newly defined, and the designers so buzzy. Hood By Air draws crazy attention around show time, and the brand dresses celebs like A$AP Rocky, Kanye West, Rihanna, and Ciara. Sure, they’re menswear designers, but women can and do wear the clothes all the same. Then there’s Rad Hourani, who designs the collections specifically to be worn by all genders.

Selfridges is smart to take note of the change in winds. But you don’t have to wait until March to get in on the “agender” trends; shop these pieces from VFILES, HBA, and Rad Hourani now for the look of the buzziest new direction.

 

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(Clockwise from left:) VFILES sideline puffer; Rad by Rad Hourani rectangle cardigan; Craig Green v-neck kimono jacket; Rad by Rad Hourani jersey top; Hood By Air color block t-shirt; Craig Green tie shirt; Craig Green tie-wrap shirt; Craig Green track pant; Rad by Rad Hourani coat; Hood By Air sweatshirt; Craig Green side tie wide leg jean; Craig Green canvas wide trouser

Rad Hourani Goes Lean & Green for Fall

While conventional couples wined and dined at 9pm on Valentine’s Day, hardcore fashion fans gathered at Studio 450 in Chelsea to witness another captivating collection by Rad Hourani. From street-style phenom Kate Lanphear to fashion week fixture Jared Leto, Hourani loyalists turned up in droves to experience the designer’s surreal sartorial world first-hand. 

As expected, the collection was equipped with reversible and utilitarian looks that left viewers in awe and wondering how in the world one could imagine—let alone construct—such exquisite work. Just as Hourani introduced a hint of blue last season, his latest unisex collection features a new pop of color: green. According to the designer’s show inspiration, the hue stands for "nature, Earth, perseverance and self celebration." 

Standout looks include wool hooded jackets, leather skirt panels, and boxy backpacks that buckle at the waist. See more looks here.

Photos: Style.com

Designer Rad Hourani Snaps the Stars of One Management

Friend of BlackBook, Rad Hourani, is known for designing insanely inventive looks for his unisex RTW collections. But what people may not know about the avant-garde fashion hero is that he’s also a legitimate photographer and shoots many of his own lookbooks. Aware of his many talents, V magazine recently tapped Hourani to capture the famous faces (and legs) of the One Management modeling agency, which includes appearances by Jade Jackson, Kirsten Owen, and Selita Ebanks.

The spread for the magazine’s model issue also features Carola Remer, Elsa Slyvan, Fanny François, Liisa Winkle, Linda Vojtova, and Milly Simmonds sporting looks from Theyskens’ Theory, Derek Lam, Dsquared2, and, of course, Rad Hourani. The black-and-white images have a cool film noir vibe and we like that the poses are a little offbeat, like Jackson lightly tugging at her hair and Ebanks slipping a hand into her thigh-high boot. See the complete shoot here

Rad Hourani Designs First Unisex Haute Couture Collection in History

Just when we thought the ever-innovative talent Rad Hourani has done it all, the avant-garde designer has found a new way to blow our minds. During Paris Haute Couture Week on July 4th, Hourani will debut his first unisex haute couture collection, making him the first Canadian to present a haute couture collection in Paris and the first designer to present a unisex haute couture collection in history. He’s only 30 years old.

When Hourani let us into his androgynous, transformative world back in 2010, we knew that he was poised to turn the fashion industry on its head. "It is a synchronic and chromatically distilled collection of polymorph unisex silhouettes," the designer told us of his fall/winter 2010 range. "It’s very important for me to have no reference from the past or from a subculture or a vintage feeling in my collection—I’m from everywhere and nowhere." Two years later, his work still reflects a next-level aesthetic that’s complemented by exquisite craftsmanship, inventive silhouettes and origami-like execution.

As far as what we can expect from his haute couture effort, he tells FashionMagazine.com that the theme will be "unisex, pure and complex," the fabrics will be luxurious and include cashmere, leather, silk and crepe,  and there will be 20 to 24 looks presented in total. Major.

Rad Hourani Rolls Out Unisex Amazingness for Joyce Hong Kong

Good news: Rad Hourani has revealed yet another fascinating unisex collection. Bad news: It’s only available in Hong Kong. Good news again: Maybe he’ll release it stateside if we hype it up enough. We’ve kept our eye on Rad since 2010, when he explained to us that he designs from a "virgin point-of-view" and produces pieces that are "freed from any gender differentiations." Although he’s stayed true to this philosophy through the years, he never ceases to surprise us with his ability to infuse innovation in his highly-structured garments. His latest range of adrogynous pieces for Joyce Hong Kong is a celebration of that.

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In honor of the designer’s five years of unisex creations, Rad developed a set of 10 limited-edition transformative garments that can be worn 15 different ways by a man or a woman. As we’ve seen before, his clever incorporation of zippers and fold over details make this sartorial trickery possible. To slightly negate from his standard black-white-gray palette, he introduces a new bold color. Last year it was blue; this time it’s red. And in case his out-of-the-box wears weren’t futuristic-looking enough, he incorporated a touch of metallic for good measure. See the complete range here and cross your fingers that it somehow makes its way to the US (or at least e-Bay). 

Rad Hourani Transforms One Garment into Twenty-Two Looks

Receiving a new lookbook from Rad Hourani is like celebrating an avant-garde Christmas. While we can always bet that his collections will be unisex and transformable, it’s how he manages to breath new life into these concepts that really captivates us. Both Collection #6 (a monotone metamorphosis) and Collection #7 (a voluminous cocoon) utilized six garments to create 22 looks, so for his latest range, Hourani naturally wanted a challenge.

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Collection #8 is a work that not only defies traditional fashion construction, but redefines it. Diving deep into the possibilities of versatility, Hourani has crafted one garment made of six fabrics that are capable of transforming into 22 new looks. Modeled by androgynous hero Kristen Owen, along with David Chang, this sartorial experiment is complex enough to warrant a college course, as students analyze every fold, zipper, and removable layer in an attempt to recreate Hourani’s mystifying multiplicity.

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Watch the collection video, directed and filmed by Hourani:

Watch the Rad Finale of Rad Hourani’s SS12 Runway Show

One designer that never ceases to spark excitement is Rad Hourani. We’ve been following his outré talent for quite some time, and are consistently amazed by his unmatched ability of turn an all-black canvas into sartorial magic. Last night’s show was impressive, as expected, but revealed a few surprises, too. See the looks in action after the jump.

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Don’t adjust your screen: you’re seeing actual color on the Hourani runway. For spring, the designer embarked on a new color story that featured his signature black-white-gray trio, but also introduced the unexpected hue of blue. Every look restates the designer’s signature androgynous aesthetic and was brilliantly multi-functional, complete with inventive fold-over details, layers, and reversibility.

You really have to see his work in action to believe it, so I captured the finale for y’all here:

Meet LA’s Avant-Garde Heroes

Every fashion city has its young designer rebels. In New York, there’s Katie Gallagher and Asher Levine. In London you have Gabriella Marina Gonzalez and Maria Francesca Pepe. And in Paris you have Rad Hourani and Raphael Young. What you may not know is that Los Angeles is also quite the innovative fashion incubator, home to a handful of designers making West Coast waves. We checked in with three emerging trailblazers to give you the scoop on their work and what’s next for LA fashion.

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Designer: Allysun Maria Dutra of KITTINHAWK

Brand concept: “Local handmade love and crystalline magic for darlings and dreamers, inspired by geology, ancient cultures, the animal kingdom, minerals, philosophy, sex, fine art, and fashion.”

Upcoming projects: “I’m obsessed with French new wave and film noir, so I’m working on a short black and white film for the release of the next KITTINHAWK jewelry collection. I’m also working on a new couture collection of avant-garde dresses and headpieces for Concept LA Fashion Week in October.”

LA fashion, now and next: “I adore the fashion scene in LA; there are so many different circles of people creating their own aesthetics. I have no idea where the scene is going next, as everything I thought I knew about people, culture and fashion in LA has shifted dramatically over the years, but I like the mystery and the adventure of not knowing.”

Avant-gardey extra: The brand is available at Gather – a retail and creative space for “slow fashion” (a movement focused on design integrity over fame) designers in LA. Allysun works out of a studio above the store. Also, peep the KITTINHAWK’s eerie short film, A Season in Hell and Illuminations, here.

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Designer: Shawn Owen of Shawn Owen Button

Brand concept: “A cosmic headrush mixed with a tidal wave of creative vomit inspired by David Attenbrough-narrated documentaries.”

Upcoming projects: “I’m getting ready for Concept LA Fashion Week.”

LA fashion, now and next: “Right now, LA fashion is like a ’70s tramp soaked in whiskey and smells like tobacco, but in the best way possible. In five years, hipsters will think segways are mad vintage.”

Avant-gardey extra: SOB’s earthy-futuristic promo video features a tune from the Swedish YouTube phenomenon known as iamamiwhoami. Watch the video here.

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Designer: Amanda Thomas of Luv AJ

Brand concept: “One part feminine and one part bad-ass, Luv AJ mixes unconventional silhouettes and tarnished chains to give a look that extra little something. I’m inspired by materials, whether it’s an amazing chunk of crystal quartz or a spool of vintage chain.”

Upcoming projects: “I’m currently working on my next collection that will include pierced sheet metal, ombré fringe chain, cuffs, and charm necklaces with a twist. I’m also launching a diffusion line with Urban Outfitters, but more on that soon.”

LA fashion, now and next: “I think LA is filled with fashion-forward shoppers that are looking for something totally unique that won’t break the bank. Consumers are getting more creative with the way they wear their accessories, like rocking bracelets as armbands or bodychains as belts, so in the next few years, I think designers will step it up to match that versatility.”

Avant-gardey extra: Luv AJ is available in the new e-shop for DNA (designers+artists) – a collective of emerging avant-garde and contemporary designers in SF, NYC, and LA.

Rad Hourani Returns With an Innovative Unisex Collection

Avant-garde design hero Rad Hourani once again turns the fashion world on its head with Collection #7, six transformational pieces that are styled into 22 looks. Not unlike his previous collection, this unisex offering feels more like an installation piece rather than ready-to-wear, demonstrating the designer’s twin values of diversity and control. Gorgeously androgynous models Yan and Herieth Paul model the collection.

It’s easy to assume that Hourani is repeating the same techniques season after season, but with a closer look you’ll see that he challenges himself by pushing garments to new heights within a static structure. This season he plays off volume, morphing outerwear into cocoon-like shapes with the use of wide collars and two-way zippers. Like his previous collection, he focuses on the back of his garments just as much as he does the front, but this time he adds even more layers. The designer also never fails to introduce a new texture—this season, it’s foam.

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