WWD speaks to L’Wren Scott’s friends and collaborators about what they’ll remember most about the stylist, designer, and friend. Scott was found hanging from a scarf, dead in her apartment on Monday morning from an apparent suicide.
Phoebe Philo received her Order of the British Empire from Prince Charles this weekend for her services to fashion. Wonder if Kate Middleton will start wearing Céline now?
Bad news for gel mani lovers; the UV lights, chemicals, and unskilled professionals (horror!) might be worse for you than you think.
Queen Elizabeth II added Celine’s Phoebe Philo and makeup artist Pat McGrath to her New Year Honors list with an OBE and MBE, respectively. The two managed to beat out David Beckham for a spot.
Shoe designer Sophia Webster took to Instagram to call out NastyGal for copying one of her bags too closely. As Stylite said, at least she didn’t sub-gram it.
A warrant has been issued for the owner of Tazreen Fashions Ltd., Delwar Hossein after a factory fire killed 112 in 2012. Five others were also issued warrants. Hossein is on the run.
Something to look forward to in 2014? Purple‘s Olivier Zahm is set to release Diary, a photographic book published by Rizzoli.
And: Models rapping.
Now that it has been speculated and confirmed that former Dior Homme designer turned renowned fashion photographer Hedi Slimane will indeed succeed Stefano Pilati’s role as YSL creative director, everyone wants to know where he’ll make the magic happen. Will he stick to tradition and work out of YSL’s Parisian headquarters or will he switch the game up and design from his homebase since 2007, Los Angeles? Ever the rebel, Slimane chose the latter.
According to British Vogue, although Slimane will maintain the design reins from his West Coast studio, "fittings will still take place in Paris and YSL ateliers will continue to work from the label’s Avenue George V offices." They also note that London-based Phoebe Philo of Céline is the only other creative director of a French fashion house to go against the grain and work elsewhere.
While Philo’s relocation definitely worked out for her (I’m pretty sure some Philophiles have physical shrines dedicated to Céline), I’m curious to see how the notoriously laidback LA will affect YSL’s European sensibility. Slimane’s first YSL collection as creative director is expected to drop this month.
On another note, Vena Cava now has a studio in LA, Vera Wang bought a home in LA, Céline is re-opening their Rodeo Drive boutique and Isabel Marant is setting up shop in West Hollywood—I suspect the grooming of a West Coast fashion capital.
Phoebe Philo is seven months pregnant with her third child, and we’re being punished for it. Today, Céline’s CEO Marco Gobetti confirmed that due to the designer’s pregnancy, the French fashion house will not produce a runway show for the fall 2012 season. Although Philo is still designing the new collection and the Céline team may show it in a presentation setting during Paris Fashion Week, we can’t help but feel torn between our admiration of Philo’s courage to scale back for her baby and our sartorial selfishness.
Every season, Céline’s front row is filled with heavyhitters like Emmanuelle Alt, Carine Roitfeld, and Anna Dello Russo, so we know that we’re not the only ones saddened by this news. Kanye West is also a huge fan and recently presented Philo with the International Designer of the Year award at the 2011 CFDA Awards, so we’re sure he’s shedding a single tear, too—unless he’s too busy working on his own fall runway collection.
Photo via Style.com
● To further prove their standing as the world’s leading French luxury brand, Hermès has launched a million-dollar handbag made of gold. [Financial Times]
● For their first foray into film, Cartier took viewers on a CGI journey around the world with their iconic panther. The piece apparently took two years to make, with six months dedicated to editing. [Styleite]
● Following her divorce from British artistocrat Justin Portman last year, model Natalia Vodianova rolled to the Dior show today on the arm of LVMH founder Bernard Arnault’s son. [Modelina]
● Say it ain’t so! Freja Beha Erichsen’s agency said that she’s not walking Paris Fashion Week this season. [Modelina]
● French photographer Jean-Baptiste Mondino’s photos of French cow Hermione in high-fashion hats can now be viewed at the aptly-titled Milk Factory in Paris. [The Gloss]
● If you’re missing the name Phoebe Philo now that Celine is officially not showing this PFW, read this interview in which the designer talks about her maternity, creating the perfect wardrobe, and those Philophiles. [NYT]
Catch up on the latest happenings in fashion and style:
Fledgling designers will have another shot at a helping hand thanks to LVMH’s new global fashion prize. WIth members like Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Phoebe Philo, Nicolas Ghesquiere and Riccardo Tisci on the board, winners will be privy to their advice along with a 300,000 euro prize. The prize aims to find the fashion designer of tomorrow – without the American/British limits the CFDA and BFC place on their funds. Kenzo/Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim will join in on the search. The 30 semifinalists will be flown by LVMH to Paris to show their collections in March.
Alexander Wang bowed his new Balenciaga retail store in SoHo, feted last night by the likes of Julianne Moore, Joseph Altuzarra, Max Snow, Vanessa Traina, and Julia Restoin Roitfeld. What to expect? Lots of green marble.
Love Thom Browne but afraid of a highwater? Fortunately for those seeking a classic American look, Thom Browne is expanding his offerings to include a new line – andt this is a little confusing, so stay with me – called Thom Browne. What about his other Thom Browne line? It’ll be renamed Thom Brown New York. The new Thom Browne will feature his aesthetic with a more classic fitting suit.
CFDA winners Dao Yi Chow and Maxwell Osbourne of Public School are working hard on their J.Crew collaboration collection, and there’s a whisper in the air about a possible women’s line. Which is great news for women. Fingers crossed.
The fashion weeks controversy has been ongoing – scheduling is a nightmare for everyone, and it’s no secret that Milan has been the stickiest of all the cities in refusing to budge or cooperate. But this is progress – Giorgio Armani joined the National Chamber of Italian Fashion in an attempt to reinvigorate Milan Fashion Week. He still wants all Italian designers to show in Italy. But he recognizes the need for reorganization. We’re on the right track now.
On to more serious business, those working to improve safety standards in the Bangladesh factories have found some common ground and are moving toward an agreement. Good news all around.
When Kanye names-drops you in a Dark Fantasy song, you know you’ve arrived. That’s doubly true for the lesser-known designers behind major fashion labels, but in the case of Celine’s Phoebe Philo, the hype is deserved. Philo has taken great strides in refreshing Celine, the French luxury brand where she began working at the end of 2008, spawning countless imitators and knockoffs with her flawless take on high-fashion minimalism.
While the latest line to drop is a step away from the clean lines of previous seasons, the emphasis on contrasting fabrics and color-blocking lends an air of playfulness for Pre-Fall 2011 to the usually stoic brand. With cheeky elements like patchwork denim, leopard print, iridescent PVC, and tartan plaids, the collection’s cohesive element is the tailoring, which updates classic silhouettes. Check out the full collection here, and keep your eyes peeled for the Fall line–we’re expecting good things.
Designer darling Phoebe Philo has created a capsule collection called “Five Perfect Tousers” for Céline. Ranging from pleated and tapered to skinny and cropped, these five trousers give fashionistas everywhere the ultimate basic to build the rest of their ensembles on. “There is no shortcut to making an excellent pair of trousers, which is what makes them so rare,” the brand said in a statement. “It takes a commitment to technique, a deep knowledge of tailoring, and understanding of how to elongate differing female body-alignments. Then, there is the critical element: the fashion-informed judgment which makes a proportion right, so it synchs effortlessly with a shoe, a top, a jacket for today.”
See all five trousers here.
This much we know: Hemlines have dropped to the floor and footwear is being served up high, by way of a wedge, with a side of florals. But what about SS11 pants, you say? Sleep soundly, as New York Fashion Week’s catwalks have met with nary a harem pant this season. Derek Lam is championing a high-waist, while simultaneously embracing the wide cuts and flared denim calves that Phoebe Philo started resurrecting at Celine this past spring. Phillip Lim is promoting something a bit softer—slim but softly tailored pants in silks of various shades.
Diane Von Furstenberg’s tailored trousers likewise left her models with leg room. Hers were cut low at the waist but cropped just above the ankle in most cases. Over at Mulberry, the cropped effect was the same, though waists were raised to Lam’s levels. And Karen Walker’s looks were equally loose, and fashioned in cheery floral and fruit tones for spring. Unlike all of the transparency afloat on catwalks this season, trousers are welcoming room for a few extra pounds. It’s all the more to love.