Lanvin S/S 17 is an Assymetrical Organza Dream at Paris Fashion Week

Illustration by Hilton Dresden

Bouchra Jarrar had her first show as Creative Director of Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week yesterday, and delivered an organza and pinstripe-filled collection, an amolgamation of finely tailored pantsuits and high-fashion negligees.

Jarrar took over for Alber Elbaz this year. The former CD was known for his lavishly embellished gowns. Jarrar gave a nod to her predecessor by incorporating feathery collars into several of her line’s most provocative looks.

Jarrar is one of two new female Creative Directors of major French fashion houses as of this year, joined by Maria Grazia Chiuri of Dior, who will make her runway debut with the label on Friday. While many assume Coco Chanel to be the pioneer head female designer of the fashion world, Jeanne Lanvin actually preceded Chanel and other female couture designers.

“She made menswear and sportswear before she did women’s,” Jarrar explained to Vogue.

Pictured: Bouchra Jarrar (bottom row, second from left), Alber Elbaz (bottom row, third from left), and Maria Grazia Chiuri (top right). Illustration by Hilton DresdenJarrar’s debut was exciting in that it took risks and experimented with old forms – only forthcoming seasons will tell what her overarching vision is for the brand moving forward.

Before We Say Good-Bye: Fashion Month’s 13 Most Memorable Moments

Photo Credit: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

Fashion Week is the most ungodly of misnomers. After all, it is most definitely not a month. Just ask the jetlagged EICs who’ve been sprinting around Europe for four weeks straight on barely more than a few espressos. And yet! The marathon (literally, if you’re Karlie Kloss or Glamour’s Cindi Leive)  is coming to a close and everyone is heading back to their respective fashion capitols. And now, a real break has come. The madness won’t resume until September–that’s six whole months! Let’s all go to St. Barths!

Before you forget it ever happened, let’s recap the most unforgettable moments.

1. Kim Kardashian dyes her hair blonde, goes to great lengths to conceal it until debuting it at Balmain

Leave it to Kimmy K to try to be the center of attention at bestie, Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain show (her #frow seat clearly wasn’t enough). Note: this was a show in which practically every super walked, and Kim still stole it. Lest you think this was some coincidence, it was not. 

So close…but if you look closely! En route, Kardashian was almost meticulous enough to keep her tricks under wraps.

Obviously, many memes ensued:

  2. But then someone else showed up with a new platinum look too! Jared Leto + Kim’s hair = Style twins!! The guess is that, this, having left essentially no time for us to mourn the most epic man-bre there ever was, is in anticipation of his upcoming role as The Joker for 2016’s Suicide Squad film.

2. Lottie Moss makes her runway debut at Rykiel

A casting coup at Rykiel’s library inspired show.

3. Bella Hadid walks Tom Ford With Sister Gigi

 

Sister, Sister.

4. Poodles Steal the Show at VFILES

…And everyone bookmarked DI$COUNT UNIVER$E and poodles.

 

5. Givenchy’s Faux-Piercings and Gelled Baby Hair Stir Controversy

Not everyone was a fan of Riccardo Tisci’s “Victorian Chola Girl” inspired beauty look. Critics pointed out that the “high fashion” look was blatant cultural appropriation.

 

6. Snoop Dogg hit the runway for the Etam show

What’s a lingerie show without a musical guest!?

 

7. Taylor and Karlie sit #FROW at Oscar de la Renta

Vogue’s favorite fashionable besties made an appearance because two is chicer than one.

road tripping in Oscar. @taylorswift @karliekloss from @voguemagazine

A photo posted by @oscarprgirl on

This is how we road trip too. 8. Ralph Lauren Melted Yeezy’s Steely Heart From his Style.com interview:

Ralph is the god. And that’s all I want to say about Ralph.

 

Ralph Lauren greets Kanye West backstage at the runway show this morning. #NYFW #regram @davidlauren A photo posted by Ralph Lauren (@ralphlauren) on

9. Chanel Made a Restaurant

Wonder what this cost…

 

10. Kanye Got a Do-Over

After two rather poorly-received attempts at design in Paris in 2011/2012, Kanye made a triumphant (mostly?) return, at NYFW–and Kylie got a moment in the sun/shoes of a model. Want a pair of Adidas Yeezy Boosts? Well you can’t have them…
Though 9000 of the sneakers were released to the public, even at $350 a pair, they, unsurprisingly, all sold out. If you are literally in major need of a Yeezy fix, hold tight, Adidas has plans to restock the shoe.

Read more about Yeezy’s super upscale Spanx here.

11. Peter Copping’s OdlR Debut

Hand-picked to work at de la Renta’s side before his passing last fall, Peter Copping stayed graceful in spite of the pressure, with a collection that felt elegant (like any OdlR one should) but refreshingly youthful. It felt like a fitting tribute (rather than a tired repetition) of the house’s trademark uptown style.

 

12. Alessandro Michele Takes the Helm at Gucci

Alessandro Michele’s debut marked a significant break from Friday Giannini’s Gucci. Romantic, eccentric, unkempt, a touch of geek chic, and maybe most notably, those furry hairy shoes. Is it what the Gucci execs were hoping for to boost sales–who knows? But the the internet loved it, and in 2015, that counts…for something.

 

13. …and of course Zoolander 2 Hits Up Valentino!

In a brilliant cross-promotional stunt, the upcoming Zoolander 2 movie and Valentino pulled off the ultimate runway show stunt. Even if you don’t follow fashion at all, odds are you caught Derek Zoolander and Hansel’s Valentino runway walk-off.

More here, (and trust, the more, the better). 

 

PEACE OUT, ‘TIL SEPTEMBER!

Insta-Critic: Moncler’s British Invasion

For today’s idyllic adventure into the foggy woodlands, Moncler drew inspiration from some of the most iconic (and male-dominated) of English institutions. The Queen’s guard made an appearance in their double-breasted red finery and fur hats. There were fox hunters too, but their tailored pieces were elongated into sharp coat dresses. Equestrian elements like jodhspurs and riding helmets turned up throughout the show. Moncler gave these elements a twist by embellishing jackets and hats with fur and bits of sparkle.

Taking hat cues from a British icon

Another look from the Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall-Winter 2015/16 Show #moncler #gammerouge #fw15 #pfw

A photo posted by Moncler (@moncler) on

Bejeweled rider

#Moncler Gamme Rouge gets the red out. #PFW

A photo posted by WWD (@wwd) on

Out of the woods?

Tweeds and checks

Insta-Critic: Miu Miu Marries Grandma Style and Exotic Skins

Photo: @miumiu on Instagram

There will be no secrets here: Miu Miu is a brand I feel passionately about. The first pair of designer heels I ever splurged on were one of Miuccia’s creations. No one keeps whimsy elegant like Miuccia, and (forget the famous Chanel apartment), I frequently think that her world would be the fashion universe I’d most like to live in. Today’s show was simply a case-in-point. On the Miu Miu runway a fabric as old and traditional as tweed is revitalized instantly by the addition of patches of python. Big collars and Little House on the Prairie fabrics became super-mod when layered under mini shift dresses made entirely of exotic skins. Playful daisy costume jewelry finished off many a look, but trust–ultimately, it will be the cheeky shoes (wonky patents in retro hues with blocky heels) that have many editors cleaning out their closets.

I have a thing for ruffled cotton blouses! @miumiu #pfw #fall15

A photo posted by Amy Astley (@amytastley) on

Not your average Grandma…(see Daisy accessories, Little House patterns and ruffles, and exotics-infused tweed).

The gorgeous @iamayajones rounds the bend @miumiu #pfw

A photo posted by Elle Magazine (@elleusa) on

It’s a snakeskin mini dress, yes it is!

The @miumiu shoes oh my… Make room in your shoe closet for the Fall #becausefw

A photo posted by Caroline Issa (@caroissa) on

Note the SHOES.

Pattern mixing on point.

A parade of colorful exotics.

Insta-Critic: Drawstring Pants and Logo Tees at Louis Vuitton

Photo: @janekeltnerdev on Instagram

From the moment Freja Beha Erichsen walked out in a plush sheepskin coat and patent leather ankle boots, carrying a shrunken-down silver luggage trunk as purse, it was clear that Nicolas Ghesquière intends to keep Louis Vuitton cool and current, regardless of the brand’s plans for world domination. It’s a tricky balance given the weighty status of a brand like LV–only further exemplified by the show’s monumental venue, the palatial Fondation Louis Vuitton. Still, Ghesquière pulled it off: blending mod ’60s elements like low-heeled slingback mules and structured slip dresses, with casual pieces like drawstring pants and logo tees for a mix that showed that even the LVMH umbrella won’t make things too serious.

Here we go #lvdomes @louisvuitton

A photo posted by by WWD (@wwd) on

Morning sun comes through the massive dome ceiling at the Foundation Louis Vuitton

The final look

Shine on @louisvuitton #LVFall

A photo posted by Susie Lau (@susiebubble) on

The logo t-shirt makes an appearance under a suit with a drawstring waist

#LouisVuitton #LVMH #LVFall #fashion #parisfashionweek #FW15 #Fall2015 #PFW #Paris

A photo posted by Marie Odile Radom (@maryophoto) on

Patent ankle boots lend a slight ’60s influence to the presentation

Bags at #LouisVuitton #PFW

A photo posted by WWD (@wwd) on

The classic “LV” gets a graphic and playful update on accessories

Insta-Critic: Victorian Gothic at Alexander McQueen

Photo: @cindi_leive on Instagram

Tonight at Alexander McQueen a Victorian gothic spinster awoke from a century and a half of peaceful slumber. Creative Director Sarah Burton took Miss Havisham–that wealthy old woman living amidst the decay of former grandeur–as her muse. Disintegrating opulence informed the faded lace collars and rumpled rose skirts in parchment-fine ruffles. Signs of life stirred here too: black leather, bright red, and bits of black and blush lingerie kept the sentimentalism in check and the collection firmly in the twenty-first century.

Edwardiana unravelled @worldmcqueen

A photo posted by Susie Lau (@susiebubble) on

Victorian details at McQueen

Llega la colección #FW15 de @worldmcqueen, presentada hoy durante #PFW. #AlexanderMcQueen

A photo posted by Harper’s Bazaar en Español (@harpersbazaarmx) on

Built-up collars and shoulders

Antique and otherworldly

The finale

Insta-Critic: Architectural Dressing at Iris van Herpen

Photo: @farfetch on Instagram

Iris van Herpen, the Dutch designer responsible for some of Lady Gaga and Björk’s most memorable looks, is known for her dramatic, sculptural designs. This season, her architectural vision subtracted the substance and left the scaffolding behind. One construction consisted of precisely-pleated circles hovering around the body, while another was warped from lattice-like networks of metal flowers to form the merest suggestion of a dress. But the designer’s ability to toy with negative space reached its zenith in those gravity-defying, skeletal metal shoes: translucent crystal spikes jutted defiantly from the soles with nary a heel to stand on.

#IrisvanHerpen, circling back. #PFW

A photo posted by WWD (@wwd) on

Instagram’s favorite dress

Interesting #black dress in a stiff #netstructure from #irisvanherpen #pfw #readytowear #fall2015

A photo posted by Kim Lehult (@wittykim) on

Dress forms at Iris Van Herpen

Sculpture and texture at Iris van Herpen #PFW #paris #fashion #irisvanherpen @irisvanherpen

A photo posted by @carinebizet on

A renewed attention to the structural dressing

A most memorable shoe.

Insta-Critic: Valentino’s Richly-Embroidered, Romantic Dresses

Valentino’s design duo Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli know what their customer wants. For fall/winter 2015 they piled on classic Valentino beading and embellishments, lavishing empire-waist dresses with richly embroidered arabesques and floral forms. Yet, in spite of the careful attention to detail, the finely-wrought clothes still managed to feel surprisingly boho chic. All those sheer panels and strips of lace lent a youthful weightlessness to the floor-skimming dresses so things didn’t get too heavy. Of course, all the floaty fabrics in the world couldn’t prepare the audience for the most light-hearted element of all…the surprise appearance, and a major teaser: Zoolander and Hansel on the runway.

#VALENTINO #FW15 #PFW #LagoBluBlog @maisonvalentino www.lagoblublog.blogspot.it

A photo posted by Lago Blu Blog (@lagoblu) on

Graphic prints on bold, patterned dresses

Rich metallics

Heavy embroidery at Valentino

GustavKlimt gilt meets CeliaBirtwell-esque chinois prints @maisonvalentino #Valentino #paris #aw15 A photo posted by POP Magazine (@thepopmag) on

Long lines and romantic prints

Insta-Critic: Chanel, à la Brasserie

Coffee with Coco, or Karl would top many a fashion person’s bucket list, to be sure. And for some editors etcetera the chance presented itself this morning, No expense was spared in giving the Grand Palais a Chanel level makeover by which it became Brasserie Gabrielle, a place where impossibly leggy and chic models (you know the drill by now…Kendall, Cara, Joan…). As for the clothes, they served as a chic reminder that lunch is reason enough to look chic. Oh, and the shoes. Well, suddenly I desperately want a (very sensible and easily justifiable!) pair of two-toned sling-backs à la my grandmother.

Lady-like lunching @chanelofficial @kendalljenner #pfw #fall2015 #treschic

A photo posted by Editorialist Magazine (@editorialistmagazine) on

Conservative skirts made very cool.

Maybe just never leave this booth.

Saucer clutch @chanelofficial #pfw #fall2015 #jadore

A photo posted by Editorialist Magazine (@editorialistmagazine) on

The bag to snap was this assiette clutch.

Reaching very peak levels of cool over here.