Historically a rather refined and prim adornment, associated with WASPdom and conservatism, the pearl has been reappropriated, now suitable for a more subversive set. Thanks to shows in New York and London, for spring, the girl wearing pearls could be sexier, harder, and powerful in comparison to her single-strand wearing counterparts.
At Thakoon, the pearl had moved to the bedroom. Styled with chemise-like dresses, wrapped suggestively around the neck, circling the wrist over and over, it was a decidedly sexier take than we’ve seen it previously. In the past, the pearls we’ve known have been inherited from generations past; this new iteration has little to do with family and proper decorum. For Thakoon, the pearls gave rather amatory feelings.
In London, Simone Rocha hardened the look, the collection itself taking a turn from the designer’s sweeter past, making a darker move than previously. Plasticized crochet and black leather accompanying the pearls down the runway lent the required moodier tone. The pearls, stuck to knee-highs, shoes, and accentuating purposeful and revealing tears in skirts, could have been un-strung from inherited strands, and reattached to a new, more defiant, wardrobe.
No longer conventional, traditional, sweet, or pure, the pearl takes on new life to spring, reinventing itself for relevance in a modern world where strength and confidence imbue the nature of women and their, and nature’s, gemstone.