Lanvin S/S 17 is an Assymetrical Organza Dream at Paris Fashion Week

Illustration by Hilton Dresden

Bouchra Jarrar had her first show as Creative Director of Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week yesterday, and delivered an organza and pinstripe-filled collection, an amolgamation of finely tailored pantsuits and high-fashion negligees.

Jarrar took over for Alber Elbaz this year. The former CD was known for his lavishly embellished gowns. Jarrar gave a nod to her predecessor by incorporating feathery collars into several of her line’s most provocative looks.

Jarrar is one of two new female Creative Directors of major French fashion houses as of this year, joined by Maria Grazia Chiuri of Dior, who will make her runway debut with the label on Friday. While many assume Coco Chanel to be the pioneer head female designer of the fashion world, Jeanne Lanvin actually preceded Chanel and other female couture designers.

“She made menswear and sportswear before she did women’s,” Jarrar explained to Vogue.

Pictured: Bouchra Jarrar (bottom row, second from left), Alber Elbaz (bottom row, third from left), and Maria Grazia Chiuri (top right). Illustration by Hilton DresdenJarrar’s debut was exciting in that it took risks and experimented with old forms – only forthcoming seasons will tell what her overarching vision is for the brand moving forward.

Anthony Vaccarello Shows His Debut Collection With YSL

Illustration by Hilton Dresden

Anthony Vaccarello debuted his first runway collection as creative director of Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion week, and the designer certainly kicked off his new career move in style.

“It’s a work in progress,” Vaccarello told Vogue regarding his spring 2017 collection. “[The Saint Laurent woman]’s certainly not bourgeois or classic. She has a huge respect for Saint Laurent, but not in the first degree. So I thought of her taking a vintage dress and cutting into it.”

The first look in Vaccarello’s line was a black leather version of one of Saint Laurent’s retro puffy-sleeved dresses. In other cases, Vaccerello took cuts out of classic forms, deepening necklines, and replacing sections of gowns and jackets with sheer, see-through materials for a sexier, punkier edge.

The show felt like a celebration of ’80s excess and visually stunned. The silhouettes felt fresh and nostalgic all at once, giving us some early-Lady Gaga vibes (particularly in the large sleeves and shiny beading.)

If the show is any indicator, the post-Hedi Slimane Saint Laurent is set to dazzle and innovate. Time will tell is Vaccarello can maintain the high standards he’s just set.

View the full collection at Vogue Runway.

Your Sneak Preview Into Guillaume Henry’s Vision for Nina Ricci

Don’t expect any spoilers — this video released by Nina Ricci ahead of designer Guillaume Henry‘s debut at the house doesn’t show much in the way of clothes. Still, the mood and beauty (and model) are all supremely beautiful.

View the Nina Ricci Fall Winter 2015-16 Collection film here ahead of Henry’s Paris Fashion Week debut at Nina Ricci:

The 5 Kanyeiest Kanye West Moments of Paris Fashion Week

Photo: Julien Boudet/BFAnyc.com

Kanye West certainly made the rounds during fabulous Paris fashion week this season. Even if you’ve managed to hop on a chartered jet to Paris this season, surely North West’s front row presence will knock you right off your high horse. Though North had a pretty good first season, papa West didn’t do so bad either. So here are the five Kanyeiest things Kanye West did during #PFW:

1. Kanye wearing Kanye to promote Kanye
Kanye wears his own “Yeezus” tour t-shirts over and over again. He also managed to throw one on his on his little baby girl, North. The outfit was paired with some pleather Kardashian Kids leggings of course. (North’s, not ‘Ye’s.)

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style #GapxBFA - DAY TWO

Photo:Julien Boudet/BFAnyc.com

2. Kanye got his hair did
Here we see the artiste that is Kanye West using his head as a canvas, using that spectacular fade to direct onlookers at his face with those semi-subtle arrows. Edgy, or ratchet? Debatable.

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style #GapxBFA - DAY ONE

Photo: Julien Boudet/BFAnyc.com

3. The West family affair
The time Kanye sat next to his wife and daughter front row at Givenchy. To throw some salt into the wound, yes the ladies are both wearing matching Givenchy gowns and yes North West does have her own front row seat.

GIVENCHY SS15 Runway Show

Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

4. Kanye’s daring show of skin
To compensate for Kim’s relatively demure attire here, Kanye allowed his shirt to flow open, revealing a healthy amount of cleavage while sitting with close friend Olivier Rousteing at his Balmain after party. ‘Ye certainly understands the important cleavage ratio that every couple should have.

PIERRE BALMAIN SS15 After Party

Photo: Joe Schildhorn/BFAnyc.com

5. Hell freezes over: Kanye smiles
And on that very same night, Kanye revealed more than his gleaming chest — we actually got a great view of his teeth. Enjoy this rare wonder!

PIERRE BALMAIN SS15 After Party

Photo: Joe Schildhorn/BFAnyc.com

 

Kanye West Returns to PFW, Wants to Collab with Topshop

In today’s "Kanye West Loves Fashion" news, WWD has announced that the rapper will indeed return to Paris Fashion Week to present his sophomore womenswear collection at 9:30pm on March 6. Now, the Telegraph reports that ‘Ye met up with billionaire Topshop tycoon Sir Phillip Green last week for lunch to discuss an upcoming project. "They were in the restaurant for several hours tossing ideas back and forth," Telegraph reveals. Hmm.

While a possible Topshop collaboration might make others flich, we actually think it could work, especially since the London-based retailer is a champion of fit and West’s designs are very much lacking in that department

This is interesting and all, but honestly we’re just waiting for a solid DONDA update, or at least another Twitter barrage.

Paris Fashion Week: Carven’s Printed Poetry

Today’s Carven show has already received enthusiastic reviews from the Paris Fashion Week set. The French fashion house’s head designer Guillaume Henri delivered an array of sculpted silhouettes and unique prints, with fresh touches like winged sleeves and eyelet layering. Like a sartorial storyteller, Henri illustrated the connection between past and present by mixing medieval details with futuristic accents.    

Highlights from the range include hourglass dresses in mustard, salmon and rouge, vivid tapetries, turtlenecks (they’re back!), nude sheaths under laser-cut eyelets, voluminous outerwear and, of course, pattern play.  

See the complete collection here

Spring/Summer 2013 Menswear: Print Play, Short Shorts, More

In honor of Band of Outsiders’ 60-hour menswear show, which is livestreaming now here, we bring to you the latest and greatest of men’s ready-to-wear for spring/summer 2013. The boys brought their best to Paris this season, presenting an array of statement pieces that encourage straying from the fool-proof penguin suit and exploring new patterns, thanks to busy numbers by Alexander McQueenrepeat printspiration purveyor Marc Jacobs and Bottega Veneta. We’re also seeing slacks in new sheens (Fendi’s luxe teal bottoms), suits in moody hues (Prada’s playing with oxblood) and ahem-worthy hemlines (Carven’s shorts are getting shorter). See it all after the jump.

Luxe Slacks
mens3
FendiBurberry Prorsum and Jonathan Saunders were all fans of shiny pants in sea-inspired hues this season. Tops in neutrals and dark tones balance these bold bottoms.
 
Shorter Shorts
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Calvin Klein CollectionCarven and Dolce & Gabbana encourage a braver hemline for shorts. Although I’m not sure who else could pull these off besides Brad Goreski or Nick Wooster, after Magic Mike hits theaters, skin will definitely be in.
 
Oxblood
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While some could argue that oxblood is just a fancy word for burgundy, this specific hue is currently trending—hard. GucciJil Sander and Prada all agree.
 
Photos: Style.com

SS13 Menswear: Before Dior, Raf Simons Showcases Artful Androgyny

When Raf Simons left his post at Jil Sander back in February, the fashion world wondered if it was the end of an era or the start of something great. Although the designer’s signature structural aesthetic would be missed at Sander, speculations swirled as to whether he was heading to Dior, which would be a thrilling turn for the iconic French fashion house. The appointment was confirmed in April and since then everyone has been waiting with baited breath for the new artistic director’s debut haute couture collection, which is happening in just a few days. But first, Simons needs to do Simons.

For the designer’s namesake line, Simons crafted a collection of garments that represented his past, present and future. His bold salute to the trio of trends currently infiltrating both men’s and women’s racks—androgyny, sportswear and retro—didn’t go unnoticed, as he cleverly punctuated Sander-esq tailored suits with short shorts, sneakers and hints of grunge.

Art also plays a part in Simons’ spring, thanks to pops of sherbet, wallpaper-friendly florals and artsy tees designed by LA-based artist Brian Calvin. An additional nod to womenswear came in the form of front slits featured on the aforemented short shorts, balanced by masculine blazers and crisp white top-buttoned shirts with oversized collars. 

If this is a taste of what we can expect from Simons at Dior, the future looks bright.

Photos: Style.com

Paris Fashion Week: Checking in with Balmain

Olivier Rousteing does it again. For the second runway season as Balmain’s head designer, the young talent delivered more of the same refreshing innovation we saw in his stellar debut. Fall 2012 is all about balancing intricacy with simplicity, and Rousteing illustrates this idea well by pairing busy embellished tops with solid bottoms. Then there were the bodycons.

In true Balmain fashion, Rousteing presented a set of bodycon party dresses that will soon become the seasonal uniform for just about every model off duty. While a few of them were rather predictable, there were some jaw-dropping numbers framed with vividly gorgeous cameo portraits in the center. More of that, please.

View the complete collection here