The #NYFW Trend You’ll Want to Pet and Hold Tight Right Now

Creatures of the Wind

At more than three it’s officially a trend, and it didn’t take more than a day or two of shows for the fur stole to crop up as the accessory du jour.

Long, luxurious, nonchalant, and warm. What’s not to love? Jason WuCreatures of the WindRodebjer, and Ohne Titel would all seem to agree that throwing one over your shoulder is the way to cozy up for fall.

We love the elegance of it, and are particularly enamored with the fun to be had as well (see: Creatures of the Wind’s spangled options, and Ohne Titel’s CMYK-colored swathes.) + Rodebjer added pockets. Pockets are always a good idea.

Ohne Titel: 

Screen Shot 2015-02-15 at 3.32.29 PM

Screen Shot 2015-02-15 at 3.32.40 PM

Photos: @ohnetitelny on Instagram 

Jason Wu:

FW15DLR_NY, Jason Wu,New York

FW15DLR_NY, Jason Wu,New York

FW15DLR_NY, Jason Wu,New York

FW15DLR_NY, Jason Wu,New York

Rodebjer:

RODEBJER RUNWAY FW15

Photo: Paul Porter/BFAnyc.com

Creatures of the Wind:

COTW 20

COTW 23

COTW 24

Hats! Are You Ready?

Gigi Burris spring 2015 presentation at Gallow Green, courtesy of BFA

Three’s a trend, right? Then we’re all in for some chic headwear this spring.

Donna Karan did it her way (loftily aspirational, I’d say):

And Gigi Burris is doing it a few ways. How chic are these? So very, “come for light lunch at my country house’s east garden, darling.”
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And on a totally different note entirely, how cool are these pieces that same designer made for the Ohne Titel show? It’s called a horsehair underbun. These are my level. I can get down with some Gigi Burris x Ohne Titel.

These underbuns make a messy bun not just acceptable but lust-worthy. Can you deal?!

Are you ready for it?

Follow Your Icons: Channeling Spring 2011 Beauty

Big brows, wait—no brows. Right? Or was it red lips with white eyeliner? The hangover from the just-passed NYC fashion week high has me jumping the gun on trends, and questioning what I need to be pulling out of my beauty kit for spring. An easy way to keep the trends straight: get behind your icons. Here are 5 uncommon muses – from the worlds of cinema, music, and fashion – to channel this spring.

Robert Palmer Girls image Slicked back hair, kohl-rimmed eyes, and ruby lips on runways like Gucci and Zac Posen.

The 5th Element, aka Leeloo image Orange lips, eyes, and sometimes even hair bring out the “supreme being” on the Spring 2011 runways like J. Mendel, Ohne Titel, Imitation, Milly, and Stéphane Rolland (during Paris Haute Couture) Biba image Super-smoky eyes colored in lash to brow at Chanel and dark eyes paired with deep lips at the Spring 2011 Marc Jacobs show.

Margot Tenenbaum image Richard Chai and Jen Kao love the moody look of Margot’s fully rimmed eyes.

Avatar image Eyes were in 3D bright blue on the runways like Oscar de la Renta and Dennis Basso.

Runways Get Inspiration from ‘Lost’

Whether it has seeped into the subconscious of fashion’s elite, or they’d readily admit to their addiction to Doc Jensen’s Lost blog on EW.com, it seems pretty clear to me that fashion designers have been heavily inspired by Season 6 of Lost. Like hella inspired. And I’m not talking about the designers that screen print “I’m One of Oceanic’s 6” onto American Apparel T’s. I’m talking high fashion, award winning and industry recognized fashion houses. Evidence that Vogue-heads are actually Losties after the jump.

Claire Littleton Inspired: Christian Dior Fall 2010, Tracy Reese Fall 2010

“I really wanted to take an existential look at who Claire is and perhaps more specifically who she’d be if she knew how to braid her hair while still embracing evil in an equestrian way,” Christian Dior’s director John Galliano said. I’m just kidding- he never said anything like that. But isn’t he saying that, really? The wind-battled curls? The devil-may-care teasing? Artists don’t have to open their mouths to say where their inspiration comes from. image

“Up until about age 8, I had a mass of unruly ringlets. I remember being thankful when my hair spontaneously straightened out (no more getting teased for having “messy” corkscrews). But in recent years, I’ve found myself craving Lost curls—which is why I was completely mesmerized by the look that TRESemmé hairstylist Jeanie Syfu crafted for the Tracy Reese show” said ELLE.com’s Associate Beauty Director Emily Hebert. (Ed. note: She actually said she was craving “my long-lost curls.”) image

Kate Austen Inspired: Alexander McQueen Spring 2010, Ohne Titel Fall 2010

Is it just me, or is Kate looking pretty beat these days? Sure, she’s pissed off about finding out that the mother of her adopted son is a psycho, but that doesn’t mean she should be washing her face with dirt. I think the M.A.C makeup director behind the dirty-faced girls of McQueen’s Spring show were heavily inspired by Kate’s island sweat and dirt soaked pores. Either that, or girl needs to find a better self-tanner. image

“Beach waves have been en vogue for awhile now thanks to the Oceanic 6, so it was refreshing to see a different version of tousled tresses at Ohne Titel’s show. ‘It’s very rough-looking, very urban—like a New York girl getting out of a taxi,’ says hairstylist Jimmy Paul, who used ‘copious amounts’ of Bumble and Bumble Thickening Hairspray and Bb. Surf Spray for a ‘ropey, sea-salt ocean texture.’ But instead of reaching for a waver after blow-drying, Paul opted to ship the girls off to a strange deserted island. The result: Textured hair with whiney, Kate Austin-esque faces.” —Emily Hebert, ELLE.com Associate Beauty Editor (Ed. Note: Again, to make Hebert’s statement true, omit everything about Kate and islands). image

John Locke Inspired: The entire Burkman Bros. award nominated line, Alexander McQueen’s Spring 2010 shipwrecked bald-ish man’s wardrobe.

Have you noticed how everyone is suddenly really into backpacks? Ever notice how Locke never takes off that backpack of his? What the hell is in that thing? I think Locke is using it more to make a fashion statement than to carry important items. Unless those items are vials of evil and other objects dead men need in their possession. (Off topic, but did you notice how his backpack changed from green to black this season? Color choice, or symbol of the man in black?) Similarly, Ben and Doug Burkman behind Burkman Bros are nominated for the Best New Designer in American award and their line happens to be entirely inspired by the casual threads of backpackers. And how did some rugged balding man star in McQueen’s one-man spring show? Looks like Locke isn’t only manipulating his group on the island. It seems like the man in black made it off the island and into the minds of fashion folks. image

Working Titel: Designing Duo Ohne Titel Storm Fashion’s Frontlines

Flora Gill is a fashion victim — literally. One-half of the New York-based label Ohne Titel, alongside Alexa Adams, Gill was blinded by the bright lights at a Calvin Klein and Visionaire party the night before her BlackBook shoot and interview; hence, the dark sunglasses she kept on while inside their Chelsea studio. But no one would accuse these two designers, or the women who wear their fierce creations, of being soft — or anything other than fashionably forward. “Personally, we have very different styles,” says Adams, “but the way in which we critique each other and unite makes something completely different and stronger, rather than just being about one viewpoint.”

The Parsons graduates behind the 2009 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund-nominated line each come from very different sartorial lineages: Adams, who also did time with Helmut Lang, concentrates on the tailoring and silhouettes, while Gill, who cut her fashion fangs in knitwear, focuses on color and patterns. It was a stint at Karl Lagerfeld that brought them together.

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With its dark palette, armor-like embrace of grommets and tunics, and towering, horned heels that teeter towards S&M, the line exudes elegance and cat-like sexuality in equal measure. Graceful draping and featherweight knits are detailed with asymmetrical folds and zippers left at half-mast, producing pieces that feel slightly deconstructed. Their moniker is German for “untitled”—a nod to artist Anselm Kiefer, whose works remain, for the most part, nameless—but their unassuming sensibility hasn’t stopped them from becoming one of the hottest names in fashion.

Flora’s Favorite Wine Bar: Brook Vin, New York City.

Photography by Pieter Henket.

New Designer Footwear Floods the Market

imageExpect a flood of new footwear options come spring. “Today’s news in WWD was all about shoes,” Fashionista notes. See by Chloe is stepping into shoe design, a new development sure to launch fashion lovers into a frenzy given the hysteria that typically revolves around the line’s namesake, Chloe — a luxury brand synonymous with covetable footwear. Meanwhile, labels Proenza Schouler and Hussein Chayalan will likewise introduce original footwear into the mix in just a few months.

Come February, Jeremy Scott will debut “a wacky sneaker mini-line” he designed in collaboration with Adidas. Also making waves in the footwear collaboration department are Pritzker Prize-winning architect Zaha Hadid’s “architectural (of course), asymmetric, injection-moulded plastic footwear” for Brazilian shoe mavens Melissa. Looking for a pair of kicks equally as innovative, but more in the vein of sea-foam green and muted lavender? Try Ohne Titel’s stilettos for Cesare Paciotti, which were expertly strutted by an especially diverse group of models at the German label’s SS09 show just a few weeks ago.

Fashion Week: Real Racial Diversity at Ohne Titel

Ohne Titel has been making a splash in fashion ever since its launch in 2006. Designers Flora Gill and Alexa Adams met while studying at Parsons; in seasons past, the line’s been synonymous with architectural innovation and soft, feminine draping. Yesterday’s show at Bumble & Bumble was no different. A parade of wet-haired models clad in structured blazers, embellished sheer tops and leggings, and stunning knit skirts and dresses was received with heavy applause from a crowd that included Dazed and Confused’s Jefferson Hack, Elle’s Kate Lanphear, and Visionnaire’s Celia Dean. Likewise noteworthy wasn’t the models clothing — but rather the color of their skin.

By my reckoning, nearly half the models that strutted their stuff on the catwalk weren’t Caucasian. That’s a significantly higher count than I’ve seen on any runway this season. So in addition to creating a collection of clothes that fashionistas the world over are going to be especially eager to get their hands on, Gill and Adams have shown that their vision of women is likewise a diverse and well-rounded one. Bravo on all accounts.