Runway Rundown: All The Best From Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear, Resort and Fall ’18 Couture

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Valentino Fall ’18 Couture

 

A lot has happened on the runway over the last few weeks. There was Paris Couture Week; before that, some designers showed their Spring ’19 collections; and in between all of those, there was Resort (which we don’t usually care for, but this season had one great moment). So, we don’t blame you if you’ve missed some things. And because we love you, we’re going to be your fashion fairy godmothers, and round up everything you need to see if you haven’t already (and if you have, all of the amazing things you should look at again). Below, our favorite runway moments — or, as we like to call them, the only ones worth mentioning.

 

Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear:

Spring can be really boring. I mean, florals, for Spring? Groundbreaking. No, but seriously, it can really hard to re-invent the wheel when that wheel is a limited range of flowing skirts, mini dresses and caftans. That’s why our favorite brands threw out seasonal rules altogether and did things like patent leather and hoodies.

 

Alyx

 

For Matthew Williamson’s first ever runway show for his four-year-old brand Alyx (or, as its named now, 1017 Alyx 9SM for Williamson’s birthday and the location of his first studio at 9 Saint Marks), the designer went all out. Instead of debuting a ton of cliche Spring pieces, like bathing suits and floral dresses, the collection looked almost as if it could’ve been for Fall. With a post-apocalyptic vibe perfect for our current political climate, Willliamson’s pieces looked like a uniform for, albeit incredibly fashionable, anti-fascist soldiers. Sign me up.

 

Vetements

 

VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019 – WATCH THE OFFICIAL VIDEO – LINK IN THE PROFILE

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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For fashion world darling Demna Gvasalia’s turn on the runway, the designer paid homage to his home country, Georgia. Gvasalia casted the show with all Georgian teenagers, and took the opportunity to teach fashion insiders about the current political turmoil happening in the region. In fact, each piece from the collection comes with a giant bar code, that once scanned with your iPhone, will open an app that features facts about the country. And as much as I want to hate Vetements, I wish I could afford to pay $1,000 for a sweatshirt.

 

Kenzo

 

Prints, prints, prints. #KENZOSS19

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Kenzo S/S ’19 was all about prints. Gingham, checks, polka-dots, snakeskin — you name it, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon designed it, and styled it together. The whole maximalist, should-be-clashing-but-instead-looks amazing thing has always been Kenzo’s vibe, but each season Lim and Leon seem to do it better and better. After last year’s Spring collection, I really thought the brand had reached their peak, but this season even makes me want to wear color.

 


 

Resort:

Honestly, I shouldn’t have even included Resort on this list, since it’s really not a list – it’s just Miu Miu.

 

Miu Miu

 

If Miu Miu’s Resort ’19 collection was bad, it truly wouldn’t have even mattered. With a casting like the one they had at The Regina Hotel in Paris last week, including Rowan Blanchard, Kaia Gerber, Uma Thurman, Chloe Sevigny and Naomi Campbell, no one would have even noticed the clothes. But we did, because the collection was perfect. Kind of preppy, but with a race car driver-meets-Valley of the Dolls-meets-Maui sort of look, the Miu Miu collection was what Miuccia Prada still does best, even after all these years: it was fun, it was free, and somehow, between all the clashing prints and furry heels, it was still subtle.

 


 

Fall ’18 Couture:

Couture is all about fantasy; it’s about staring at beautiful clothes you desperately want but have absolutely nowhere to wear them to. When it came to this year’s Couture Week, our favorite designers didn’t let us down, delivering some of the dreamiest collections we’ve ever seen grace the runway. I mean, Kaia Gerber at Valentino. Enough said. But don’t worry, we’ll say more anyway.

 

Chanel

 

For his Fall ’18 Chanel couture show, Karl Lagerfeld paid homage to Paris. Honestly, everything the guy does is good, and the fact that he’s still able to send tweed two-pieces down the runway, and make them look good — well, that alone, proves he’s a genius. In addition to his love of Paris, the designer built this collection around what he calls the “high profile” — long skirts that unzip to show thigh-bearing minis underneath. “You can wear it zipped down when you visit your banker, no?” he told Vogue. “And zipped up when you see your lover after!”

 

Valentino

 

At this point, there’s no way you haven’t seen at least one photo from the Valentino couture show. Images of Kaia Gerber in her amazing beehive have literally been flooding the internet. But for once, the talk is true and all the hype is worth it. The Valentino collection was the MVP of Couture Week — and maybe all of 2018. Obviously, Pat McGrath and Guido Palau killed it with the beauty; but the collection itself was completely breathtaking. I mean, the models looked like actual angels floating down the runway in their billowy gowns and floral headdresses.

 

Fendi

 

 

Fendi always knows what they’re doing. For their couture collection, the brand took a step back from the logomania that’s taken over their last few seasons, and created a ’60s-inspired ode to fur. While a lot of the industry has vowed to go fur free, Lagerfeld has doubled down with Fendi. Though the collection included bits of actual fur, it was more about the ways in which he treated other fabrics that created a sort of gaudy (but in a good way), glam feel that I totally could’ve imaged Liz Taylor or Anne Welles in.

 

Margiela

 

Discover highlights from our Autumn-Winter 2018 ‘Artisanal’ Collection designed by @jgalliano: The nomadic idea of taking life on the road is conveyed in abundant layering where garments interweave and mutate. #maisonmargiela #artisanal #artisanalartistry – Music: “Unchained Melody” Written By: Alex North & Hy Zaret Courtesy Unchained Melody Publishing LLC – Black Saturn, Nicholas Hill, Luciano Ugo Rossi, Glenn Herweijer; Ben Sumner. KPM Music When The Clock Stops, Nikky French. KPM Music Breakacuda,Benjamin Medcalf. Anger Music Circus Caravan MYMA. Justement Music Flight Remembered, Nicholas Hill, Glen Herweijer, Ben Sumner. KPM Music The Arrival, David James Caton, Harry Valentine. Anger Music Etude in e major, Frederic Chopin, Tolga Kashif, KPM Music Warhammer, Darren Mudge. Anger Music Arrangement : Jeremy Healy

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Galliano went all Fifth Element for his latest Margiela Artisanal collection (he’s too cool for couture, natch). Using VR headsets and iPhones as accessories, the designer sent a retro-futuristic, technology-obsessed collection down the runway. And hey, since people are already attached to their phones, physically adhering them to our outfits seems like a natural next step. That, or we’re going to war with aliens and Galliano is designing the outfits.

 

Viktor and Rolf

 

To celebrate their 25 years together, Viktor & Rolf decided to take 25 of the brand’s most iconic looks, and update them for their Fall ’18 couture collection. That update meant turning everything white and covering them in Swarovski crystals. Though I’ve always been a fan of Viktor & Rolf, there’s literally nothing more perfect than the bed dresses they originally created for their Fall ’05 collection — or, at least, I thought, until I saw this season’s iteration, complete with white bedazzled pillows and a down evening dress. Sigh. This is what dreams are made of.

 

Photos & Video: Instagram

Naomie Harris, Kate Moss, & the Aboah Sisters Star In Miu Miu’s New Campaign

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Photography: Alasdair McLellan for Miu Miu

Miu Miu has long tapped A-list actresses for its fashion spreads – past muses include Amanda Seyfried, Elle Fanning, Lupita Nyong’o, and India Menuez – and their F/W 17 campaign is no exception. The brand has now tapped Naomie Harris, nominated for an Oscar for her role in Moonlight, to pose alongside fashion’s blonde queen Kate Moss, as well as activist and model Adwoa Aboah and her sibling Kesewa.

The photography was set in New Orleans and took the crew everywhere from breezy boats in the bayou to the glamorous Preservation Hall. Models wore glittering jazz-era headpieces, oversized, colorful fur coats, floral gowns and accessories dripping in jewels. Alasdair McLellan, in his fifth turn working for the fashion house, shot the collection, and composed the images in collages of color and black and white.

Rounding out the cast: models Missy Rayder, Jean Campbell, Eliza Cumming, Jasmine Daniels, Rose Daniels, Lily Nova. Styling was done by Katie Grand, hair by Anthony Turner, makeup by Dianne Kendall.

Take a look below:

Insta-Critic: Miu Miu Marries Grandma Style and Exotic Skins

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Photo: @miumiu on Instagram

There will be no secrets here: Miu Miu is a brand I feel passionately about. The first pair of designer heels I ever splurged on were one of Miuccia’s creations. No one keeps whimsy elegant like Miuccia, and (forget the famous Chanel apartment), I frequently think that her world would be the fashion universe I’d most like to live in. Today’s show was simply a case-in-point. On the Miu Miu runway a fabric as old and traditional as tweed is revitalized instantly by the addition of patches of python. Big collars and Little House on the Prairie fabrics became super-mod when layered under mini shift dresses made entirely of exotic skins. Playful daisy costume jewelry finished off many a look, but trust–ultimately, it will be the cheeky shoes (wonky patents in retro hues with blocky heels) that have many editors cleaning out their closets.

I have a thing for ruffled cotton blouses! @miumiu #pfw #fall15

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Not your average Grandma…(see Daisy accessories, Little House patterns and ruffles, and exotics-infused tweed).

The gorgeous @iamayajones rounds the bend @miumiu #pfw

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It’s a snakeskin mini dress, yes it is!

The @miumiu shoes oh my… Make room in your shoe closet for the Fall #becausefw

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Note the SHOES.

Pattern mixing on point.

A parade of colorful exotics.

Ice Bucket Madness as Bettered by Miu Miu Fall 2014

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I’m used to ice. The feel of it on your butt as it seeps through your jeans when you slip over on the street trying to maneuver around with an enormous Sophie Hulme bag strapped to your arm in the mid-November rain, or the frosty looks you get from industry bigwigs. But alas, I am referring to neither of these when I talk about the fashion industry’s current fascination with ice. The world has gone ALS Ice Bucket Challenge crazy.

I really started paying attention late last week when Bee Schaffer challenged her mother to do the Ice Bucket Challenge. “Wow” I hear you cry. ”Shock horror…WHO?” Although they don’t share a surname, Bee’s mother is none other than Queen of the Icicles herself, American Vogue Editor in Chief and Creative Director of Condé Nast, Anna Wintour.  Now, I admit, I freaked out a bit on hearing the news. The idea of seeing ice-cold water being poured over the most important figure within the industry was rather exciting. The chilly water sliding off her bob like a downpour on a fresh gabardine Burberry trench, pooling on her Oscar De La Renta swathed lap as she sat, menacingly, glasses super glued to her face. I also didn’t think she would do it.

However, I was wrong and Anna is a good sport. She accepted with grace and dignity, letting out only a little wince as her family drenched her. (Victoria Beckham fared less well, literally being hurled from her knees, face down into the Astroturf, as her boys poured gallons of water over her petit frame.)

Watch Anna Wintour accept the ALS Ice Bucket Challenge here.

But it makes me wonder. It’s all very well watching your favorite celebrities as you’ve never seen them before, erect nipples and all, but how many of us actually donate because they have seen someone do it? Are we all waiting for an excuse to be nominated to show how well we handle having a bucket full of ice cubes hurled at our heads, and then donate the $10 we would normally spend on Wednesday-night-wine-for-one? I, for one, am looking forward to Donatella Versace accepting the challenge (nominated by Mario Testino.

Whatever happens, If I get nominated, all I know is that you’ll have to give me more than 24 hours to grab some Fall 2014 Miu Miu, because that show was waterproofed to the extreme. Thanks Miuccia.

Buy Candy: Miu Miu’s Crystal Sandals for Spring 2012

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Spring officially begins on March 20, which is enough of an excuse to start shopping for seasonal wardrobe options now. Our latest obsession comes from Miu Miu and their new crystal sandals that are inspired by marine life. The hand-made footwear features the glittery shapes of sea horses, starfish, and crabs drawn in pink crystals, pyrite, amethyst and metal studs.
 
We can imagine sporting these leather-soled numbers as we aimlessly walk along the island of Capri or during an outdoor picnic somewhere in the Italian countryside. You know, casual activities. The Miu Miu crystal sandals will be available in all Miu Miu stores and online starting in March.

Aubrey Plaza, Patricia Clarkson Star In New Miu Miu Short Film

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Miuccia Prada hearts Hollywood. Following the Italian fashion designer’s casting of Boardwalk Empire star Michael Pitt as the face of Prada menswear, she’s enlisted four young female directors from around the world to create four short films for Miu Miu that star a slew of famous faces. 

As part of Miu Miu’s "Women’s Tales" series premiering at the Venice Film Festival this week, the Prada sub label has released the trailer for "It’s Getting Late," lensed by Iranian director Massy Tadjedin. The film features actress/comedienne Aubrey Plaza (of Parks and Recreation), British actress Gemma Arterton, Japanese actress Rinko Kinkuchi, and, my personal favorite, Patricia Clarkson aka every romantic comedy’s secret weapon.

All the gals are decked out in Miu Miu’s ready-to-wear collections as they get ready to attend a performance by musicians Zola Jesus and Au Revoir Simone. Peep the trailer below and check out the other shorts directed by Zoe Cassavetes, Lucrecia Martel and Giada Colagrande here.

FashionFeed: Stella McCartney Dresses Ballerinas, Franca Sozzani Hates Fashionistas

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● Stella McCartney designed the costumes for her famous father’s first ballet, Ocean’s Kingdom. [Telegraph] ● Italian Vogue’s ballsy editor Franca Sozzani is on the attack again, and this time she’s hating on fashionistas. Who does she think reads her magazine? [NYT] ● This lady is literally selling her Missoni for Target rainboots for $31k. [eBay]

● Here’s a sneak peek at the new 124-page book on Daphne Guinness. [Racked] ● Behold the complete collection of Miu Miu FW11 accessories. We’re officially obsessed with those glitter pumps. [Fashionologie] ● These Lita Cat Tapetry platforms seem oddly alluring. [Racked]

Celebrities Still Dominating Fashion Rags

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By now you’ve heard the news that budding starlet Hailey Steinfeld has landed a modeling campaign with Miu Miu, making her the youngest face the Italian label’s ever signed. Formal spokesmodels of Miuccia Prada’s celebrated sub-brand include Evan Rachel Wood, Lindsay Lohan, and Katie Holmes. With Karl Lagerfeld busy becoming besties with Blake Lively and Rachel Bilson, and Angelina Jolie working for a Louis Vuitton campaign, you may be wondering: Where have all the models gone?

One look at the current roster of high-fashion mags proves that actors and musicians aren’t only stealing campaigns, they’re hijacking covers: Penelope Cruz for Vogue, Rachel McAdams for Elle, Eva Green for Harpers Baazar UK, Jennifer Lawrence for Flare, Leighton Meester for L’Officiel, and of course, Lady Gaga for V. The only magazine that fairly consistently places professional models on their covers is i-D, which recently rolled out multiple modelcovered issues for May.

And while models aren’t exactly raising torches now that stars are taking over their day jobs, there have been a few who’ve publicly condemned the shift, including supermodel Niki Taylor. In an interview with the Future Claw back in February, when asked what changes she’d like to see in the fashion industry, Taylor replied, “Put models back on covers of magazines and in campaigns and let the movie stars do movies.”

Although we certainly love a fierce model moment, at the end of the day this industry is about making a profit. And for now, whether we like it or not, celebrities sell.

Does This Miu Miu Ad Offend You?

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Miu Miu was recently hit with a number of complaints over this image from their SS11 campaign. Two people reported to the Advertising Standards Authority that 23-year-old Polish model Kasia Struss appears to be “significantly underweight” in the ad, wearing a dress with a plunging neckline that reveals her thin frame. This resulted in an investigation by the ASA, claiming that the Italian luxury label might have breached social responsibility guidelines. As of today, Miu Miu has been cleared of charges.

The Telegraph reports that the ASA cleared Miu Miu of the breach, quoting the self-regulatory organization: “ASA noted that the model in the ad was slim, and that the lighting effects, make-up and low-cut dress emphasized her body shape. However, we considered that the ad was typical of those used for fashion products and that the model did not look significantly underweight. We therefore concluded that the ad was not irresponsible.”

So, what does Prada, the Italian fashion house that owns Miu Miu, have to say about it all? A spokesperson explained to the Telegraph that Struss is “naturally tall and slim” and that the campaign was “dramatic and high fashion and featured statuesque models.”

Although Struss doesn’t necessarily look any thinner than the rest of today’s high-fashion models, it’s worth noting that both the ASA and Prada’s essentially tautological responses fail to address the elephant in the room: that “typical” “dramatic” “high fashion” models and photo shoots glamorize a dangerously thin body type.