Fratelli Rossetti is Transforming Footwear

Share Button

 

When you think of shoes, the first thing that pops into your mind isn’t usually carpet. That is, unless you’ve seen Fratelli Rossetti‘s new striped loafers. The Italian footwear brand has teamed up with handmade rug creators CC-Tapis to debut a line of striped shoes that are equal parts classic and contemporary.

Founded just outside of Milan in 1953, Fratelli Rossetti has become one of the leading names in Italian footwear. With a focus on both craftmanship and comfortability, the brand creates stylish shoes for every season. CC-Tapis, a Milan-based brand, produces eco-friendly rugs that are handmade in Tibet and Nepal.

 

 

For their collaboration, Frattelli Rossetti and CC-Tapis created two pairs of multicolored shoes that exemplify both brands’ focus on fashion, function and sustainability. Using white, mauve, pink and black to create a signature striped effect on the soles, the “Stripes Under Your Feet” capsule is a bold, yet understated statement. And in line with both brands’ disdain for mass production, the shoes are limited edition.

So, be the best dressed of your friends and buy them while you can. We have already.

 

Photos courtesy of Fratelli Rossetti

 

Insta-Critic: Sea-Inspired Dressing at Armani

Share Button

Giorgio Armani is committed to easy, classic tailoring. Closing out MFW today, he showed a daytime uniform of sorts, consisting of fluid trousers and gently-cropped jackets. What broke the tedium of tradition was the season’s ocean inspiration. A jacket in seaglass green and inky black borrowed its texture of fish scales, a shawl with fringe in marine blue fanned like sea spray behind a model as she walked. Even the brushstroke details that cropped up on handbags mimicked the fluidity of the fabrics. For evening, Armani things casual: pink dress + flat boots = ready for the ball.

Backstage at Giorgio Armani FW’15

A photo posted by eletrikhman (@eletrikhman) on

A jacket worth jumping for

Blue is the warmest color at @Armani. #GiorgioArmani #blue #mfw #fw15 #YutopiaFashionWeekDiary #lastday #floral #armani

A photo posted by Yu Lee • Milan-Taipei (@yulee_yutopia) on

Marine details at Armani

The new pantsuit backstage

Llega la colección #FW15 de Giorgio @Armani, presentada hoy durante #MFW. #GiorgioArmani

A photo posted by Harper’s Bazaar en Español (@harpersbazaarmx) on

Black collar evening

Armani finale in pink! @armani #graziamfw #seenbygrazia #mfw

A photo posted by grazia_it (@grazia_it) on

Ballgowns and boots

Insta-Critic: Sunday in Milan Has Color Blocking for Everyone

Share Button

Photo: @msgm_official instagram

If, like me, you imagine that the Milanese spend their days soaking up the infinite opportunities for arts and culture that surround them, then the painterly, artistic touches on the clothes in many of Sunday’s collections at MFW will come as no surprise.

MSGM

The silhouettes at MSGM were sophisticated (tailored jackets, trousers, and necks wrapped up in scarves) but the colors (which popped up as contrasting pockets, and on extra-long scarves) reminded us of the youthful-appeal for which the brand is known.

#MSGM #MassimoGiorgetti #WomenCollection #FallWinter2015 #FW15 #Backstage #MFW | @mrmsgm @msgm_official |

A photo posted by MSGM (@msgm_official) on

(Some of the other color-blocked scarves nearly hit the floor).

Missoni

The classic Italian brand’s collection served as a this-is-how-it’s-done lesson in print-mixing.      

Missoni MFW AW 15 #Missoni #MFW #Style #Fashion #Milan A photo posted by catwalkyourself (@catwalkyourself) on

 

Oversized blazers gave off subtle 80s vibes.  

Salvatore Ferragamo

Another collection dedicated to waist accentuation–(see also, Sportmax, earlier this week), a majority of the looks that went down the Ferragamo runway were accented by knotted belts ranging in color and texture, but not style or impact. The collection also featured a host of color-blocked creations (a trend for sure, but in far more muted-colors than the ones at MSGM) which looked like they could just as easily be framed-canvas-creations.

Arrivederci Milano! Thankyou @ferragamo for having me in your beautiful show today!

A photo posted by Grace Simmons (@gracesimmons) on

The Ferragamo belt.

Marni

With a pared-down aesthetic, signature Marni quirk was delivered via big, artsy earrings, and colorful snakeskin shoes. The clothes themselves were cut in simple silhouettes, and mostly neutral hues. Add another talley mark to your waist-accentuation count, though at Marni this came in the form of totally unembellished, wider belts. Finally, there was ample use of fur, most notably on pockets.

– MARNI –

A photo posted by EMMANUEL CAUREL (@emmanuelcaurel) on

Insta-Critic: Emoji-Dressing at Versace

Share Button

A heavily-sequined, glam-fueled affair is par for the course when it comes to Versace–and today’s show in Milan was no exception. What sets this season apart is a new approach to the label’s heritage. In a bold but basic palette of red, yellow, green, and blue, the Versace logo emerged as a design element, winding its way across shoulder straps and shoe heels, while alphabet letters spelled out the label’s name on sweatshirts and suit jackets. If this seems like a return to 90s logomania, think again. Donatella Versace had a decidedly contemporary take on the matter: her show notes called all those reworked logos “the emoji of the future.”

Red lights at @versace_official. Waiting for the show #mfw

A photo posted by Milano Fashion Week (@cameramoda) on

The pre-show staging at Versace

 

 

Miss Kloss shows off the bling

Donatella revisiting @Versace_Official in the 1990’s for AW 2015

A photo posted by @aplaingirl on

90s game strong at Versace

 

The letters of @versace_official remixed like the blingiest alphabet soup ever

A photo posted by Susie Lau (@susiebubble) on

 

The logo laden line up

Detalles en la colección #FW15 de @versace_official, presentada hoy durante #MFW. #Versace

A photo posted by Harper’s Bazaar en Español (@harpersbazaarmx) on

Pattern detail and primary color

Eight Stand Outs from Milan’s Menswear Shows

Share Button

1: Brioni’s East-meets-West vibe

You have to go back a long way to uncover the roots of Brioni’s Fall/Winter 2014/15 collection—all the way back to Caravaggio, in fact. Take, for example, Giusquiamo green—yes, I had never heard of it either, but a chief pleasure of fashion is how it expands your appreciation of color. Giusquiamo green—dark and mossy—is named after a leaf (henbane in English), that was said to help witches fly, and the dead forget their loved ones, as well as more practical purposes in treating colic, irritable bladder, and gastric ulcers. And now it is a shade of beautiful knits and jackets by Brioni, taking the color palette from the shades of Carvaggio’s compositional chiaroscuros. There’s also midnight smoke, cherry brandy, dry bougainvillea, and geisha red. Talk about a (cashmere) coat of many colors. And that geisha red is no anomaly: a 1963 travel journal by Brioni co-founder Gaetano Savini, in which he recorded his impressions of Tokyo, serves as the anchor to this sublime collection in which silk shirts and a varsity jacket are embroidered with traditional Japanese scenes that you don’t need to be an extrovert to wear. Current creative director, London-born Brendan Mullane, let me look through Savini’s yellowed notebook, full of scribbles and doodles, and practically humming with inspiration and passion. Mullane and his team have taken that inspiration and expanded it for a collection that genuinely merits that overused trope “east meets west,” by synthesizing the best of both worlds.

Brioni JournalBrioniSilk ShirtBrioni close up

2: Bottega Veneta’s everything.

There were many shades of green on show at the Bottega Veneta presentation early on Sunday morning—at an hour that Tomas Meier, the brand’s reserved, somewhat cerebral creative director, tends to favor, presumably because he thinks that afternoons are for slackers. Meier has helmed the luxe Italian brand, Bottega Veneta for over 12 years—and for good reason. His collections are never less than impeccable, and consistency is his hallmark. There is almost nothing that materializes on his runway that I wouldn’t want to wear, and almost nothing I could ever afford. This season’s signature was a dip-dyed sweater, as well as cashmere sweat pants that will never be worn to the gym.

Bottega

 

DipDyesweater

3: Canali’s Grand Piano

The music for the Canali presentation was a live performance by pianist Ludovico Einaudi, playing his own pastoral compositions on a grand piano. Yes, it was exhilarating to hear Beyonce’s Superpower at Bottega Veneta, and the blast of Pulp’s Hardcore at Feragamo was a delightful mindfuck, but after all the pop and rock that propels the svelte young boys down the catwalks, how nice to have the grown-up sound of Einaudi at the piano. I’d never heard of him before, but when I fly back to New York, this is the song I shall be playing to calm my nerves.

CanaiRunway

Ludovico Einaudi

 

CD for ludovico-einaudi-in-a-time-lapse-album

4: Bebel’s Puntarelle salad

Man cannot live on style alone. Sometimes he needs bread, too—preferably dipped in a little olive oil, and served with a heaping bowl of puntarelle salad. Let me come clean: I had no idea what puntarelle was when I first encountered it at Bebels, one of those typical Milanese restaurants that are over-lit, and basic, but which serve fresh, simple dishes that you crave after a day of sitting endlessly on hard, narrow benches waiting for shows to start 30 minutes after their scheduled time. Puntarelle is a winter chicory that grows in southern Italy, and which is transformed by a little chopped anchovy, garlic, vinegar, and olive oil. Reader, I could eat this every day, and when I am here I do.

Puntarelle Salad_Bebels

5: Pink? No, Flamingo.

I overheard Deborah Needleman, now making waves as editrix of T Magazine, marveling one morning at the rise of the men’s clutch. Men’s fashion had become a little more feminine, she noted, while women’s wear was a little more masculine, and so much the better. It’s a good and true observation, but Valextra, a cult Italian bag company, suggests the wheel has simply been dialed back to the 1960s when European men thought nothing of running around with a slim, elegant purse under their arm. Velextra’s fall collection of leather goods come in three colors—petroleum, dark brown, and what they refer to as Flamingo, a bright poppy pink that would add just the right amount of dash to a man’s wardrobe. It surfaces in attaché cases, document wallets, even a cool little case for your computer cables, but I liked the wallet best of all. Is it too early to draw up a Christmas list?

Valextra-Wallet

6: This model

Watching Pier-Gabrile LaJoie stroll down the runway for the Fall/Winter 2014/15 Calvin Klein’s menswear collection was my Death in Venice moment of this season’s shows (you’ll have to read the novel/watch the movie to understand). In Gerontophilia, the most recent movie by director Bruce LaBruce, the young French Canadian plays an 18-year old attracted to an 82-year old man, and it’s easily LaBruce’s most touching and mainstream movie to date. There was something cinematic, too, about Italo Zuccheli’s latest collection with its masculine suiting and the slick-haired models strutting confidently down the catwalk. Leading the charge, LaJoie wore a green trench and pleated, roomy pants that brought to mind a Raymond Chandler crime noir. Later that night, at an extravagant cocktail party festooned with tureens of caviar, LaJoie reflected the same lovely ease and grace he shows on camera, and yes—I was charmed. And no, I did not ask his age. That would be too depressing.

Pier-bigger

7: Donatella Versace

When her brother was shot and killed by Andrew Cunanan on July 15, 1997 few fashion world observers expected Donatella Versace to have the combination of talent and business acumen to keep the fashion house relevant. And yet, here she is in 2014 with a collection that had the audience at the Versace mansion cheering at the weekend. It was, perhaps, the most purely entertaining and joyous occasion that this year’s shows had to offer. There were men in assless chaps that might have been ripped from the pages of gay illustrator Tom of Finland; and men in elaborate jewel-encrusted cod-pieces; and men in ferociously-patterned biker helmets. I had the pleasure of interviewing Donatella some years ago, and still remember thrilling to her deep-throated purr as she discussed fashion and sex. Was there such a thing as being too sexy or seductive, I asked? “Never, never!” she responded, “You can be too boring, but you can never be too seductive.” Nothing about Donatella has ever been boring. And when she came out at the end—a gush of silky blonde hair and a buoyant smile—seductive was precisely the word that sprang to mind.

Versace

8: The enigma that is Prada

Trays of whiskey were waiting as the fashion press poured into the large cage-like arena for Prada’s always-hot ticket show. A stickler for detail, even the refreshment is often a hint of what’s to come, but as usual with Miucca Prada the show was playfully abstract with a somber undertone. Were we in wartime Europe, or maybe in the immediate aftermath? The fox furs hanging around mens necks, and used, harness-like, to reinforce vests, conjured escaping prisoners, but no — afterwards, backstage, Miucca smiled appreciatively at the guessing games, but quickly clarified: we are in the world of the German avant-garde, of which the late Pina Bausch was such a great exemplar. And Bausch, like Prada, commanded a devoted following, not simply because she knew how to dance, but because she knew to think.
PRADA

Aaron Hicklin is the editor in chief of Out magazine and editor of BlackBook.

Milan Wrap-Up Day 1: Costume National, John Varvatos, Marni

Share Button

It all kicked off Friday night at Santa Tecla with Natasha Slater’s rambunctious pre-fashion week bash, Punks Wear Prada. Models and pretty young things guzzled toxic cocktails and danced to the beat into the wee hours. But hangover aside, the following morning it was all business as the fashion glitterati stormed the streets of Milan for the first day of the men’s Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collections.

Leading the launch was the storied house of Ermenegildo Zegna, which changed direction from last season’s opulent Asian-inspired looks to that of understated and classic elegance. The collection was younger and cut slenderly, geared to the successful man on the go, perhaps enjoying a blissful weekend in Gstaad. Wintry plaid suits in shades of hazelnut and marine paired with refined Fair Isle shawl collar sweaters and denim blazers. The best came by way of coats, most of which wear lined with shearling or fur. For the evening, Zegna suggested a black quilted silk tux and an incredible robe coat in "sable Spazzaolino."

Next, we scampered through Milan’s industrial design district to Costume National, where Ennio Capasa presented an assortment of contemporary retro-punk that he titled "Bohemians and Dreamers." This resulted in sleek military coats and shearling-lined patent leather bombers, black high neck mohair sweaters, and clunky Derby ankle boots with high rubber soles and Palladium stainless steel toes. "It’s about a man who dreams. It’s very ’90s—you can recall the New Wave movement—but yet it’s very of the moment and contemporary. You can see this in the shoes," confessed Capasa backstage.” Costume National never caters too much to commercialism—it remains true to to my vision," the he said about the difference in his luxury line.

As the day peaked, Dolce & Gabbana played with a black, modern definition of Baroque hyper-luxe, whereas Raf Simons sent a leather-dominated homage to American Psycho down the runway. We sauntered through Milan’s fabulous Guadrilatero della Moda to the Marni boutique/showroom where quirky, ’70s-esque designs filled the modish space. One glass of prosecco and it was time for Frankie Morello, a label that has just begun to pop up in US boutiques. What started off as punk-chic with shimmering appliqué and spikes on bombers, blazers, and pants, turned into Himalayan hippie. Nearly every show had the studded or spiked accessory, and Frankie Morello had one of the best renditions of this on a kaleidoscope of prints and ornamentation, decorated skinny black bottoms, bicolore ombré wool sweaters, and bohemian suits. An evident trend on the runway was the mix of blocked fabrics: quilted leather at the top of a sport coat blended into a cable-knit cashmere sleeve; stripes simmered into cool smokey hues. An added bonus was Burger Girl and Giuseppe Sartori live concert collaboration that definitely set the Sherpa tone.

Burberry Prorsum tried something rather innovative: After its live stream from the runway at Corso Venezia, viewers could place orders on the company website for those must-have cropped-bomber jackets and trenches. Chief creative officer Chris Bailey’s inimitable ability to keep the label modern, yet always in the shadow of its treasured past made fireworks in a variety of masculine silhouettes. A double-breasted chevron knit shawl collar pea coat and the English college-stripe tops made a perfect match with classic three-button wool and velvet suits. Exploring new waters were the cropped coats and jackets, many in quilted olive, black, and slate-colored nylon, canvas, and leather. One thing Burberry can’t get wrong are accessories and the studded textured leather document cases, geometric-patterned holdalls, and studded leather gloves are gonna fly off shelves later this year. Growing weary, we mingled after the show over a few swigs of burnt wine and prosecco, before taking our car over to the breathtaking Church of Sconsacrata di San Paolo Converso for John Varvatos.

"There are a lot of new proportions, we weren’t all layered up. It was really all about the pieces. It wasn’t about trying to make something for a runway," stated Varvatos backstage. The show opened with an impressive animated video tracing model Miles McMillan on a journey throughout New York City before making his way down an elevator to runway level. "It was just something I thought about when I was inspired about this young guy in New York who was looking in the past, but wanted to know everything for the future too," explained Varvatos. "And that’s how the clothes were. There was a heritage to them, but yet they were very contemporary. It was just something that came together quickly."

He struck gold with sand and heather-grey reverse cutaway jackets, sumptuous knitted cardigans in alpaca, and military calfskin blousons that came in a pony skin-like texture. It was an urbane cool that will surely resonate well on both sides of the Atlantic. "We’ve been here  for three years and if you’re going to be in men’s wear, this is the place to be. I wish it was in New York, because I’m there, but it isn’t and we’re with some of the best people in the world to show. It’s been great for our global business,” explained the ebullient designer as he congratulated his team backstage. 

Backstage With Milan’s Male Models

Share Button

Knife-sharp bone structure, jutting collar bones, legs for days, sculpted muscles. They’re called male models, and at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, they’re everywhere . So we made a couple calls, threatened a handful of publicists, and all of a sudden, found ourselves backstage at John Richmond’s Milan show. The clothes were Savile Road meets rock ‘n’ roll at the Ace Café. The models were young and attractive, and we asked a bunch of them a few candid questions about their experience, primarily, “What do you like most about Milan Fashion Week?” Here is what they had to say. 

Casey: 30, Bowmanville, Ontario, Canada (pictured, top)
“Food… I like the food here in Italy. I like Porta Ticinesem, where they have that wall up of Elvis… it’s kinda psychedelic. I go there for pasta about every night. Really nice people!”

Andrea

Andrea: 23, Copenhagen, Denmark
I like very much the people here that arrive for fashion; they arrive from all over the world and the rest of the country… The style that they have… (On going out) In Milano? Hmm I don’t really so much, but I do enjoy The Club.

Martin

Martin L.: 24, Copenhagen, Denmark
Uh, I like my ah–depending on how many shows I get. I did five shows. I always come to do Dolce [& Gabbana] and then I always get a few extra. I don’t really like to go out in Milan. I don’t do the main people thing.

Javier

Javier: 28, Madrid, Spain
I would say the people. Italians and Spaniards are quite similar… we get along pretty well. And of course I like the food here. Today I actually made a date to go to a pizzeria I love in Porta Genova. It’s called Luna Rossa [http://www.lunarossa-pastapizza.it/]. I always go– like every fashion week I have to go! And in New York I have the same thing! I need a milkshake. I go to someplace near Broadway called Peggy Sue’s!

Vincent

Vincent: 23, Belgium
What I like about the Milan shows is you always meet up with your friends… you go back to that place where you started and you meet a lot of people here– people always come back. So it’s a good time to party with old friends. Mostly I like to go to a bar and have some beers. This time I haven’t! I’ve been a good boy! I did Zegna, this one, I have Canali after, then tomorrow I’m doing Ports [1961] and [Enrico] Coveri. In Paris I have Hermès and I think agnès b.

Matt UK

Matt, 23: London, UK
I’m based in Milan with I Love Models. The whole week has been exhausting going around to the castings and stuff like that– it kinda of drags on a bit. But it’s really exciting– it’s a great place to be with all of the parties. Everyone comes together. The energy is alive. I have to say walking in Dolce [& Gabbana] is one of the top three… Great clothes and great coverage!

Your Milan Fashion Week Round Up, Day 3

Share Button

It’s all about the perfect suit in Milan. On day three of Men’s Fashion week in the Italian sartorial mecca, with empires such as Canal, Etro, Gucci, Brioni and the hip Z Zegna (pictured top) presenting, men’s fashion editors, stylists and buyers had plenty to keep them busy.

For those who don’t know it, Dirk Bikkembergs is making strong waves to reclaim a position in the luxury market. (With fashion PR powerhouse, Noona Smith-Petersen behind the label, success is bound to come.) The sportswear brand presented a convincing variety of form-fitting suits, deconstructed jackets, jerkins, and leather tops in techno fabrics and colors. On a more dreamlike note, "Fly Like an Eagle" boomed overhead, as Miles McMillan stormed the gold and red runway. Head-designer Kean Etro credited the mythological flight of the great Pegaso as inspiration for his colorful collection (also the label’s logo)—the plumage-adorned, fanciful velvet suits with gold piping and car coats; iconic and bold Etro paisley prints abound; there was a touch of Baroque romance, but the screaming cultural reference was the Navajo Southwest. The strongest pieces came by way of evening wear, less New York and more Monte Carlo.

On another note, Z Zegna‘s new creative director has balls. Paul Surridge knows the Z Zegna customer, and catered exquisitely to that end, but pushed a bit further. More modern, a constructed shoulder, a command of technological eccentrics; the collection boasted an impressive double-breasted trench in emerald, cropped parkas in metallic bois-ébène, and the new “it” color for next year’s winter: Merlot, by way of a patchwork calfskin fur coat. There were Zegna stripes, fine wool, four-button marine-blue suits, and a few sleek grey coats with exposed zippers. As with 90% of the shows, the chic man carries an iPad or Mac, and Z Zegna offered a few winners to satiate the tech-freaks. It just might have been the best show we saw in Milan.

Canali referenced the eclectic Londoner, the one who enjoys theatre and Seville Row custom suits. Geometric prints and stripped evening coats came in an assortment of pop-Brit colors and velvet. This dandy likes a military cut, but is a bit more adventurous when it comes to patterns.

Umit Benan has never served in the Turkish Army, but he understands that The Warrior still lives within most men. The cargo is back, but it has nothing to do with the odious Abercrombie & Fitch ’90s phase. With a realistic, post-WWII set to match his theme, Benan explained that his collection paid homage to the military man after the war, ready to go home to his sweetie. This translated into barrack chic cargo pants, sturdy black leather military coats, and thick wool separates in steal and techno fabrics. It was all well received.

The night ended with a bang. Finally, some boozing and dancing. Philipp Plein hosted court at Williams’ Club le Roi for a presentation of military-esque sportswear, the kind worn by a bratty Russian czar in Miami. Club Kids’ burlesque and live hip-hop performances mixed with Möet & Chandon and vodka, equated to a solid dose of mayhem.

Your Day 2 Round-Up of Milan Men’s Fashion Week

Share Button

At day two of Milan’s men’s fashion week, Tomas Meier showed off his knack for constructing that perfectly tailored leather jacket at Bottega Veneta‘s early morning show. Black and midnight blue reigned supreme at Emporio Armani‘s modern cool event, where models sauntered down the runway in luxury cloaks with fedoras, sleek modern leather coats, and impeccable silk suits. Ermanno Scervino was all about argyle, intricate and chunky knitwear, paired with simple gray and blue blazers.

When it comes to smart, luxurious dressing, Salvatore Ferragamo‘s creative director, Massimiliano Giornetti, continues to prove that he is one of the best. Precisely fitted wool double-breasted suits, subtly ombré polished shoes, elegant winter coats in auburn, ash, and a gray, had a classic yet sophisticated ease. A double-breasted gray Astrakhan coat and a pair of merlot-hued velvet dinner jackets with piping turned a few heads, for sure. The new Ferragamo man doesn’t need to flaunt his affluence with flash. He’s too busy to, anyway.

Vivienne Westwood (pictured, top) got political, with a David Attenborough-inspired collection called The Frozen Planet. "If our leaders would admit the fact of climate change and conduct their polices from that perspective, then we might have a chance. We have ten years at the most to stop it," Dame Westwood stated, in an urgent message on the global warming crisis. Models donned iced-over beards and hair wearing a range of plaid, strip and tartan wool suits, patchwork, bright colors, and asymmetrical tops in blue, forest greens, and heather. The label also announced that it has collaborated with sustainable tee-shirt manufacturer ANVIL, to create a limited edition of shirts for men’s week, available on YOOX.com to support GreenUp! 

Missoni had a young and contemporary interpretation of its iconic knitwear, while Trussardi went ’70s glam, replete with flared proportions, wide lapels, and a funky color scheme. Miuccia Prada spun up some fanciful military chic on her star-studded runway in Via Fogazzaro. But with names like Émile Hirsch, Willem Dafoe, Gary Oldman, Adrien Brody traipsing down the red catwalk, who could focus on those tremendous clothes? Thom Browne‘s Moncler Gamme Bleu looked like ski astronauts exploring some blizzard-doomed tundra, and Italo Zucchelli incorporated exotic leathers and croc into Calvin Klein Collection’s über-modernistic DNA.

But some of the top picks from the second day of shows came by way of footwear. From designers Cesare Paciotti to Alberto Moretti, and Swiss label Bally, all presented a variety of winners. Giuliano Fujiwara re-worked brogues boots in sturdy nubuck with rubber soles and colorful techno embellishments. Arfango’s Alberto Moretti relied on high-glam and artisanal craftsmanship for his winter 2013 collection. A series of loafers and ankle boots were adorned with either Swarovski crystals, velvet detailing, or metallic studs, which should give the intrepid dapper man some great evening options.

Bally co-directors Micheal Herz and Graeme Fidler whipped up some stupendous calf skin moccasins in primary colors and waxed/water-proof suede boots. A Bally emblem bag in toffee-brown leather and the signature Scribe collection screamed urbane working man. Bally also introduced a prototype interactive display system that will be installed in select boutiques, enabling shoppers to custom-design their dream footwear. The label’s ready-to-wear options had some awesome quilted outwear, which we inspected over a refreshing glass of, what else, Prosecco.

Last but not least was Cesare Paciotti‘s ever-growing shoe empire. After successfully launching the Steve McQueen-inspired Madison 380 NYC line, composed of understated classic options, the brand is expanding from suede to patent leather and shoes with a bit more edge. The best boots seen so far can be found here: Fur-lined industrial leather stivali, with Paciotti dagger insignia and exposed zippers and studs that were very of the moment, a bit indulgent, but rugged.

Anna Dello Russo

Anna Dello Russo at the Ferragamo show.