Not many designers (er, actually probably no others) can say they’ve dressed Pacino, Jay-Z and Morrissey. But Italian fashion legend Angelo Galasso’s “Tradition in Evolution” philosophy has an appeal that apparently crosses not just a few cultural divides.
His tres elegan-tay new boutique, installed in the Plaza Hotel’s storied Edwardian Room, is his Stateside debut, and oh what an entrance he makes. Galasso’s modern-classical, masculine luxe looks are right at home amongst the space’s magnificent architectural details, including oak wainscoting, opulent chandeliers and a dramatically beamed ceiling. A seriously classy affair.
“The best ideas are ones that solve problems for yourself,” says Chris Riccobono. And with the creation of his shirt company UNTUCKit, he did exactly that. After years of being fed up with wearing button-down shirts that were too long or too tight (thus, necessitating tucking) Riccobono launched UNTUCKit, a collection of men’s shirts that look good untucked and fit a variety of men’s body types – the first of its kind.
Since its debut, such celebrities as Channing Tatum and Matt Damon have been seen wearing the shirts, and the fan base just keeps expanding, from men in their twenties to sixties – to women. “I receive orders from women who thank us for solving this problem for their husbands and boyfriends.”
Despite the increasing demands and the challenging economy, Riccobono maintains a relaxed managing style – “the opposite of corporate America – and is grateful for his family’s positivity amid the risks of owning a company. “There are many sleepless nights. If you fail, you essentially need to start over from scratch. There will be a lot more failures than successes, but you only need one to make it.”
If you thought crop-tops and jeggings for men were a mistake on the recent SS11 runways, just wait until you get a load of the accessories. Marc Jacobs covered his Louis Vuitton models in temporary tattoos, which were a staple at the women’s Gaultier and Chanel show last season. Jacobs enlisted his own tattoo artist, NYC-based Scott Campbell, to spray LV logos across the necks of his mannequins. The tattoo trend continued over at YSL, where Stefano Pilati “portrayed the tattoo artist Mark Mahoney of the Los Angeles Shamrock Social Club in a short film, directed by Ari Marcopoulos, which debuted at its men’s show last week,” says the Independent. Also fixated on the male neck was Alber Elbaz at Lanvin.
Elbaz introduced thick chain chokers (some equipped with over-sized gems, some with tiger teeth) and charms fit for a decidedly fierce Indiana Jones. And while luxury neck ink and statement jewelry isn’t for every man, Thom Browne took men’s accessories to a whole new level of weird this past week. In addition to slim tailored short suits, Browne introduced school girl knee-socks and lips that looked as though they’d been plated in gold. Never one to play it safe, Browne’s latest collection pushes menswear’s boundaries yet again.
As Milan’s shows stretch the standard definition of gender-appropriate, Valet magazine has asked women what they look for in a man’s sartorial sense. Broken down into pie graphs, the investigation looks into the questions of acceptable jewelry wearing, overall style of dress, and the best denim cuts—all according to the ladies. For example, is a bow tie a pro or con? (Unfortunately, there’s no discussion of an even more questionable men’s neck wear trend: the ascot.) Some of the results, after the jump.
Man jewelry (save for a watch) earned no more than a 6% approval rating. As for the question of manbags, 38% find a messenger bag completely acceptable, while 31% say men should go sans sac and stuff everything in their pockets. Despite it being World Cup season, the biggest “fashion deal-breakers” are in fact team jerseys (“outside of sporting events”). Also making the list: polar fleeces outfitted with a company logo, flip flops when neither at the beach or poolside, and (sorry, Barack) ill-fitting jeans.
Photo of Prada SS11
Following in line with neckwear’s recent resurgence in women’s wear, men’s fashion is embracing the ascot with exceptional rigor. For those not especially familiar, an ascot is defined as similar to a tie except that it’s typically made from a thicker, woven silk, worn wider and folded over. Tom Ford’s newly released ad campaign for fall features actor (of A Single Man fame) and model Nicholas Hoult in Ford’s namesake men’s wear line with a blue check scarf, tied ascot style. CNN’s Roland Martin is a dedicated fan (much to the amusement of John Stewart). Olivier Zahm snapped the editor of L’Uomo Vogue, Robert Rabensteiner, wearing one back in May.
Joshua Jackson likewise outfitted his Met Gala ensemble with an ascot. Meanwhile, Gucci has followed suit, showing slimmed-down versions on its Spring 2011 runway in Milan this week. Expect to see this trend gather even more steam in months ahead.