Runway Rundown: All The Best From Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear, Resort and Fall ’18 Couture

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Valentino Fall ’18 Couture

 

A lot has happened on the runway over the last few weeks. There was Paris Couture Week; before that, some designers showed their Spring ’19 collections; and in between all of those, there was Resort (which we don’t usually care for, but this season had one great moment). So, we don’t blame you if you’ve missed some things. And because we love you, we’re going to be your fashion fairy godmothers, and round up everything you need to see if you haven’t already (and if you have, all of the amazing things you should look at again). Below, our favorite runway moments — or, as we like to call them, the only ones worth mentioning.

 

Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear:

Spring can be really boring. I mean, florals, for Spring? Groundbreaking. No, but seriously, it can really hard to re-invent the wheel when that wheel is a limited range of flowing skirts, mini dresses and caftans. That’s why our favorite brands threw out seasonal rules altogether and did things like patent leather and hoodies.

 

Alyx

 

For Matthew Williamson’s first ever runway show for his four-year-old brand Alyx (or, as its named now, 1017 Alyx 9SM for Williamson’s birthday and the location of his first studio at 9 Saint Marks), the designer went all out. Instead of debuting a ton of cliche Spring pieces, like bathing suits and floral dresses, the collection looked almost as if it could’ve been for Fall. With a post-apocalyptic vibe perfect for our current political climate, Willliamson’s pieces looked like a uniform for, albeit incredibly fashionable, anti-fascist soldiers. Sign me up.

 

Vetements

 

VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019 – WATCH THE OFFICIAL VIDEO – LINK IN THE PROFILE

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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For fashion world darling Demna Gvasalia’s turn on the runway, the designer paid homage to his home country, Georgia. Gvasalia casted the show with all Georgian teenagers, and took the opportunity to teach fashion insiders about the current political turmoil happening in the region. In fact, each piece from the collection comes with a giant bar code, that once scanned with your iPhone, will open an app that features facts about the country. And as much as I want to hate Vetements, I wish I could afford to pay $1,000 for a sweatshirt.

 

Kenzo

 

Prints, prints, prints. #KENZOSS19

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Kenzo S/S ’19 was all about prints. Gingham, checks, polka-dots, snakeskin — you name it, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon designed it, and styled it together. The whole maximalist, should-be-clashing-but-instead-looks amazing thing has always been Kenzo’s vibe, but each season Lim and Leon seem to do it better and better. After last year’s Spring collection, I really thought the brand had reached their peak, but this season even makes me want to wear color.

 


 

Resort:

Honestly, I shouldn’t have even included Resort on this list, since it’s really not a list – it’s just Miu Miu.

 

Miu Miu

 

If Miu Miu’s Resort ’19 collection was bad, it truly wouldn’t have even mattered. With a casting like the one they had at The Regina Hotel in Paris last week, including Rowan Blanchard, Kaia Gerber, Uma Thurman, Chloe Sevigny and Naomi Campbell, no one would have even noticed the clothes. But we did, because the collection was perfect. Kind of preppy, but with a race car driver-meets-Valley of the Dolls-meets-Maui sort of look, the Miu Miu collection was what Miuccia Prada still does best, even after all these years: it was fun, it was free, and somehow, between all the clashing prints and furry heels, it was still subtle.

 


 

Fall ’18 Couture:

Couture is all about fantasy; it’s about staring at beautiful clothes you desperately want but have absolutely nowhere to wear them to. When it came to this year’s Couture Week, our favorite designers didn’t let us down, delivering some of the dreamiest collections we’ve ever seen grace the runway. I mean, Kaia Gerber at Valentino. Enough said. But don’t worry, we’ll say more anyway.

 

Chanel

 

For his Fall ’18 Chanel couture show, Karl Lagerfeld paid homage to Paris. Honestly, everything the guy does is good, and the fact that he’s still able to send tweed two-pieces down the runway, and make them look good — well, that alone, proves he’s a genius. In addition to his love of Paris, the designer built this collection around what he calls the “high profile” — long skirts that unzip to show thigh-bearing minis underneath. “You can wear it zipped down when you visit your banker, no?” he told Vogue. “And zipped up when you see your lover after!”

 

Valentino

 

At this point, there’s no way you haven’t seen at least one photo from the Valentino couture show. Images of Kaia Gerber in her amazing beehive have literally been flooding the internet. But for once, the talk is true and all the hype is worth it. The Valentino collection was the MVP of Couture Week — and maybe all of 2018. Obviously, Pat McGrath and Guido Palau killed it with the beauty; but the collection itself was completely breathtaking. I mean, the models looked like actual angels floating down the runway in their billowy gowns and floral headdresses.

 

Fendi

 

 

Fendi always knows what they’re doing. For their couture collection, the brand took a step back from the logomania that’s taken over their last few seasons, and created a ’60s-inspired ode to fur. While a lot of the industry has vowed to go fur free, Lagerfeld has doubled down with Fendi. Though the collection included bits of actual fur, it was more about the ways in which he treated other fabrics that created a sort of gaudy (but in a good way), glam feel that I totally could’ve imaged Liz Taylor or Anne Welles in.

 

Margiela

 

Discover highlights from our Autumn-Winter 2018 ‘Artisanal’ Collection designed by @jgalliano: The nomadic idea of taking life on the road is conveyed in abundant layering where garments interweave and mutate. #maisonmargiela #artisanal #artisanalartistry – Music: “Unchained Melody” Written By: Alex North & Hy Zaret Courtesy Unchained Melody Publishing LLC – Black Saturn, Nicholas Hill, Luciano Ugo Rossi, Glenn Herweijer; Ben Sumner. KPM Music When The Clock Stops, Nikky French. KPM Music Breakacuda,Benjamin Medcalf. Anger Music Circus Caravan MYMA. Justement Music Flight Remembered, Nicholas Hill, Glen Herweijer, Ben Sumner. KPM Music The Arrival, David James Caton, Harry Valentine. Anger Music Etude in e major, Frederic Chopin, Tolga Kashif, KPM Music Warhammer, Darren Mudge. Anger Music Arrangement : Jeremy Healy

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Galliano went all Fifth Element for his latest Margiela Artisanal collection (he’s too cool for couture, natch). Using VR headsets and iPhones as accessories, the designer sent a retro-futuristic, technology-obsessed collection down the runway. And hey, since people are already attached to their phones, physically adhering them to our outfits seems like a natural next step. That, or we’re going to war with aliens and Galliano is designing the outfits.

 

Viktor and Rolf

 

To celebrate their 25 years together, Viktor & Rolf decided to take 25 of the brand’s most iconic looks, and update them for their Fall ’18 couture collection. That update meant turning everything white and covering them in Swarovski crystals. Though I’ve always been a fan of Viktor & Rolf, there’s literally nothing more perfect than the bed dresses they originally created for their Fall ’05 collection — or, at least, I thought, until I saw this season’s iteration, complete with white bedazzled pillows and a down evening dress. Sigh. This is what dreams are made of.

 

Photos & Video: Instagram

Today: Rent the Runway’s First Sample Sale

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Rent the Runway‘s first sample sale is going on today. Designer dresses and accessories at rock-bottom prices! Like this Preen Lacy Tie Back Dress. Choose from over 100 styles that have been “retired” from the rental inventory and are now available for purchase. You’ll find designers such as Proenza Schouler, Matthew Williamson, Halston Heritage, and many others at up to 65% off retail.

The gently worn dresses will be sold “like new” and any imperfections will be clearly marked, such as missing sequins/beads, fabric fading, picked/pulled, or missing a belt, so consumers are aware of the condition. And to make things easier, you can consult with Rent the Runway’s stylists and customer service team to get further info on each item. The sale is online only at Rent the Runway today. Happy shopping!

Matthew Williamson is Going to the Chapel

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English fashion designer Matthew Williamson has announced that he’ll be launching bridalwear next year. This is indeed an interesting deviation from the norm, as the designer notoriously uses color and patterns to create his remarkable dresses. And wedding dresses are often, well, white.

Williamson told Elle UK: “I wanted to create a bridal collection that is both a natural extension of the mainline eveningwear, but at the same time reflects the opulence of such an important celebratory event. The pieces are characterised by feminine, diaphanous silhouettes in richly embellished luxurious fabrics.”

Karl Lagerfeld’s Own Private Island

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Karl Lagerfeld, the be-gloved genius behind the Chanel cotton ball, is designing an island. Somehow, this feels inevitable. “The legendary Chanel designer has teamed up with prestigious Miami-based architecture firm Oppenheim and the KOR hotel group to create the manmade island situated 20 km off the coast of Dubai,” reports Vogue UK. The island, dubbed the world’s first-ever “fashion island,” will house not only luxury boutiques, but three highest-end hotels and 150 villas, and should be up and running by 2014. (For some mind-blowing renderings, check out this slideshow.) If you’re looking to set your sights on a cheaper, more immediate fashion project not located in the UAE, look no further than Matthew Williamson, the British designer synonymous with vibrant palettes and graphic prints.

Williamson is launching a lower-priced line called Muse by Matthew Williamson. Diffusion collections – from Zac Posen to Marc Jacobs to Scott Sternberg’s recently debuted sister line, Girl – are a natural step for high-end designers these days. “The British label has created a new license with Italian company Mariella Burani Fashion Group and will unveil its new collection in February 2011,” says Vogue UK. Not much is known about the line as yet, as Williams says details are still being fleshed out, but he describes the look as a younger, slightly less financially secure companion to his current customer. If Williamson’s collection for H&M back in 2009 is any indication, there will be plenty of boldly colored party dresses, spirited accessories, and a few sleek sets of trousers and blazers to boot.

Matthew Williamson Toasts Belvedere’s Pink Grapefruit Vodka

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Known for an unabashed and daring embrace of vivid hues, Matthew Williamson’s designs epitomize the confidence and color of warm-weather wardrobes. It’s fitting, then, that Belvedere took up with the Manchester-born designer to celebrate the summer launch of Pink Grapefruit vodka as part of their Maceration line. For the collaboration, Williamson, 38, fashioned a limited-edition caftan inspired by the vodka purveyor’s uninhibited spirit. “It made me think of vacations and jet-set holiday travel, during which I imagine you’d drink that stuff,” he says. “The caftan is a perfect garment because of its shape. It looks good on everybody and takes you from lounging by the pool to an evening of dinner, drinks and dancing.”

While conceiving the garment, Williamson confronted his own almost nonexistent vacation schedule. “I never get a proper summer,” he says. “Unlike the rest of Europe, I don’t take August off. I do, however, snatch a week every year in Mykonos. When I’m old and gray, I’d like to end up there. As a little boy, my mom and dad used to plan our summer holidays in southern England, and I remember thinking it was so boring to go on the same holiday every year. Now, I’m doing the same thing.

Matthew Williamson for Belvedere Pink Grapefruit limited-edition caftan ($1,195), www.matthewwilliamson.com.

Anna Sui, Jil Sander, ‘SATC2’ & Williamson Spawn Fashion Reads

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Fashion’s literary fetish is anything but waning these days. While street-style bloggers have released a slew of tomes in recent months (The Sartorialist, The Selby and the Facehunter included), so have the likes of unemployed sartorial icon Olivier Theyskens and former employees of both Miuccia Prada and Karl Lagerfeld. Now comes news that Anna Sui, Jil Sander and the Sex and the City engine will release their own publications in upcoming months. Notoriously shy Sui is about to go “very public about her 20-year career,” says Women’s Wear Daily. Come fall, Chronicle Books will release a retrospective that will “recount her working with practically every supermodel around, dressing rock sirens and bohemian chicks and giving the baby-doll dress a lease on life.” Although Sui herself can’t be credited for actually penning anything more than the book’s forward; contributors Jack White (hubby to longtime Sui muse Karen Elson), the Costume Institute’s Andrew Bolton and photog Steven Meisel take care of the rest.

Jil Sander, who recently returned from a fashion hiatus to team up with Uniqlo for a heralded ongoing collaboration, is following suit. “The reclusive German designer said she wants to produce a book … ‘some kind of resume of my work in the past and the ideals that stand behind it’,” Sander told Women’s Wear Daily. She has yet to decide on the publisher, but given her larger-than-life sartorial reputation, finding interested parties isn’t likely to be much of a struggle.

A significantly harder pill to swallow, however, is the latest extension of the Sex and the City empire. In anticipation of the sequel to the ongoing Carrie Bradshaw saga, SATC is releasing its own style guide. Slated to hit shelves May 18, the paperback is a “mammoth 500 page fashion-focused book” that breaks down outfits from the film as well as offers up behind-the-scenes, “making of” magic. Fortunately for designers whose garb is featured in the film, every outfit’s various components are labeled by brand. As for the looks themselves, let’s just say that whoever released the preview image above might have been better of opting for something slightly more understated.

Speaking of Sex and the City, Bradshaw favorite, Brit designer Matthew Williamson is also getting into the literary game. “Yes, I’m working on a book,” he divulged to Racked LA this past weekend, before adding, “it’s going to be written by Colin McDowell, with an introduction by Sienna Miller. With a few more contributors, maybe. Anna Wintour possibly.”

Manic Jetsetter Matthew Williamson to Debut Men’s Wear & E-Commerce

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British designer Matthew Williamson, beloved by Vogue and H&M (with whom he did a diffusion line last fall) alike, is about to be a very busy man. Not only is the designer adding men’s wear, which will debut in February to be sold exclusively at Harrods in addition to Williamson’s namesake boutiques; he’s venturing out digitally speaking as well with the launch of a brand spanking new e-commerce site. The latter will include “every piece from the most recent collection available for the public to buy online,” says Elle UK, granting access to Williamson’s vibrant, pattern-heavy creations to consumers around the globe. The move makes sense, seeing as Williamson’s designs themselves are more often than not inspired by his worldwide travels, as he recently told the Telegraph.

In response to how many holidays Williamson will take in a year, the designer says: “as many as possible. I’m out of the country at least once a month, exploring new places for work as well as pleasure, and returning to favourite haunts such as Mykonos and Ibiza for holidays. This year, I’ve been to Cape Town, Tulum in Mexico, Cuba, Rio de Janeiro, Turks and Caicos and New York.” Not too shabby considering he still manages to put out critically acclaimed collections season after season. Although these days Williamson is all about the five-star experience (think dining at the new Nobu in Mykonos’ new Belvedere hotel or renting private villas at Amanyara in Turks and Caicos), it hasn’t all be first class travel. “When I began my business, 12 years ago, and had just started to travel to India. I remember landing in Delhi for the first time with £60 in my wallet and no hotel,” he recalls. “We found somewhere in Nizammudin for about £20 a night and didn’t sleep a wink. The room was like a prison cell, the linen was scratchy, and it was freezing.” As for his best hotel experience: “The penthouse of the Atlantis in Dubai, where I spent 24 hours last year. It is utterly decadent. A gold mosaic lift takes you to your room, which has more marble than you can imagine, mosaics on all the walls, and a huge banqueting table in the middle. There are even peacocks in the courtyard outside. Too much to live in, but amazing for a party.”

Arrivederci, Zegna

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imageDon’t get your tropical lightweight wool panties in a bunch — Zegna’s not the latest fashion monolith to fall prostrate to the crumbling economy. In the wake of the needle-wielding couturiers at Christian Lacroix tearfully forfeiting their craft ’cause they’re running out of money, Zegna’s ciao’ing out of New York Fashion Week and returning home to Milan, where they’ll show the hipper Z Zegna line at the sartorial epicenter’s Pitti Uomo men’s fashion week alongside big brother brand, Ermenegildo Zegna.

This kind of sucks for New York Fashion week, as it’s losing its luster by the day. Don’t get me wrong — American soil has spawned some pretty fabulous designers — but along with my impeccably dressed contemporaries in the biz, I can definitely say the occasional European import show was something we all looked forward to. And with today’s announcement that Matthew Williamson is also taking his colorful extravaganza of a show back to London, we’re forced to ask, “what’s wrong with New York?”

Truth be told, men’s brands showing in Milan will, ultimately, benefit in the long run, as the shows debut a full three months before New York Fashion Week, giving buyers and press more opportunity to snatch up their favorite pieces and spread the buzz, and considering the lack of cha-ching nowadays, buyers buying is a good thing. Still, the male glitterati of the Big Apple will have one less opportunity to show off their short shorts and saddle shoes.

NYC Openings: Bird, Matthew Williamson, Zero + Maria Cornejo, QSW Mercer

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Bird (Williamsburg) – Third Brooklyn outpost is sprawling, chic, and definitely not for the starving artist. ● Matthew Williamson (Meatpacking District) – Mr. Williamson’s first New York foray brings color to the western fringes. ● Zero + Maria Cornejo (NoHo) – Nolitist no more; fancy, light-filled new digs for Chilean sophisticate. ● QSW Mercer (Soho) – Boutique within Quicksilver with free bubbly.