9 Things to Know About Stuart Vevers’ FW15 Collection for Coach

Ah, Coach. Easily one of the best shows of the day. Stuart Vevers‘ reinvigoration of the American heritage brand is going swimmingly — each season gets better and better.

Fall found us in a somewhat nostalgic and totally unpretentious zone, with star models like Binx Walton, Lexi Boling, and Sam Rollinson clothed in familiar silhouettes cut from luxurious materials — think the thickest shearling and fleece, and the most perfect leathers. Want the general gist of things? Here’s what’s what.

1. Think the basic principals of a school girl’s wardrobe in better materials and more generous, flattering cuts.

2. Stuart Vevers loves shearling every which way (and so will you.)

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3. Grungy, punky, prep, and still sophisticated.

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4. This is the ultimate cool girl hair of which we’re extraordinarily jealous — but lucky for you, we found out how to recreate it.

5. Bandanas are back.

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6. These pieces are the foundations of so many wardrobes, yet the styling feels entirely personal and meaningful — touches here and there tell stories of adventure and belonging.

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7. You will dream about those pristine leather jackets.

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8. Plaid, baby.

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9. And some luxe fur for good measure.

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All photos courtesy of Coach

 

 

“Bigger, Better, and More Leather!” for Zana Bayne

Models backstage at Zana Bayne. Photo by Sonny Vandevelde. 

Maybe it’s because it’s impossible to resist a cute baby, but more likely the romantic mood and beautiful styling of Zana Bayne’s spring 2015 collection did me in. However I got hooked, I am, and I had the pleasure of speaking with the designer about real life moments on the runway and what’s next for her brand. 

The collection felt like a growth and departure from the strict leather of previous seasons; there’s a lot of depth with the inclusion of the clean white pieces.

I have a totally romantic point of view when it comes to design. A lot of the initial inspiration, with the shirting and shirt dresses [a collaboration with Norisol Ferrari], was this idea of easiness and lightness, being able to bring something softer to leather. Which sometimes can come off really hard. So I wanted to bring something beach-y to the collection. One of the biggest inspirations was moonlit water on the beach at night. What would somebody be wearing in that setting? How would they be feeling?

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When I watched the show and saw these beautiful looks, it made me want to pack up the collection, move to a house by the water and fall in love… and then the baby at the end felt so perfect for that! I mean, that’s how it works in real life, right? How did the baby come to be in the show?

The model is Mollie Gondi, and that was her baby. I just thought it’d be a really beautiful way to end this romantic, fantastical show. I wasn’t really thinking so much about the symbolism as I was about the visual of just how impactful that would be. I like for people to draw their own narrative from having them [Mollie and baby Phoenix] in there. But I wanted it to be a really pretty, spring summer collection! I didn’t really realize how much having baby Phoenix at the end would really resonate with people. And it’s unexpected for a leather collection.

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There have been a few moments like that this season, where it’s not strictly models on the runway. Dustin Yellin walked at Nonoo giving his best white girl impression. That obviously had more humor and was less about symbolism… Travi$ Scott basically roughhoused down the runway at Mark McNairy. At your show, when cooed at the same time it was so funny.

I saw it over the monitor!

It was a nice connecting moment, everyone laughed at themselves after.

Yeah I think people are trying to find a way to bring more life to runway, and hearken back to the ‘90s runway where there was personality and a story. We’re all kind of trying to find a way to escape the fast walk and the same pacing. For me I love a little bit of attitude and sassiness… but even with the Gareth Pugh presentation, that’s another person trying to take something off the runway.

Opening Ceremony put on a play.

It’s something really special for people at the show. It’s a moment you’re experiencing.

What’s next, what do you hope happens for your brand?

After this we go into sales, bring everything to Paris…. Checking out the tannery over in Amsterdam, hopefully working on some leather innovations there. Visiting my friend who just had a baby — another reason why I had Phoenix in the show. I think in October we’re back in New York and starting on the new collection! I’m making pieces for a film this next week. I did a special installation for a fitness studio called Monster Cycle.

I’m really interested in focusing on the collection of handbags. There were five new styles for the show. We’re working on those. I’m trying to secure myself in as a luxury accessories label.

It does not stop from here. I’m glad it doesn’t stop. Bigger, better, and more leather!

The Five Most Insane Sentences in Buzz Bissinger’s Gucci Confession

My dad used to be friends with Buzz Bissinger, the sportswriter. But these days, when you bring up that name, my dad’s eyes glaze over and he kinda shakes his head like: “What the hell happened?” If this appalling GQ “article” is any indication, the answer is Gucci. Bissinger is hooked on the shit. Don’t bother reading the whole thing, it’s barely coherent. I’ll distill it for you: 

1. On his philosophy: “Gucci men’s clothing best represents who I want to be and have become.”

2. On seeing the Milan collection: “It’s like Indiana Jones finally finding the Holy Grail, even though it was only three days ago that I bought the pony-hair jacket.”

3. On the amount spent over a four-day shopping binge: “That is equivalent to roughly a full year’s tuition at my son’s college, Kenyon.”

4. On an item he forgot he had ordered online while drunk: “But I still kept it, and it still is seriously smoking, and none of you can fucking have it.

5. On himself: “I look good.”

Follow Miles Klee on Twitter.