Runway Rundown: All The Best From Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear, Resort and Fall ’18 Couture

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Valentino Fall ’18 Couture

 

A lot has happened on the runway over the last few weeks. There was Paris Couture Week; before that, some designers showed their Spring ’19 collections; and in between all of those, there was Resort (which we don’t usually care for, but this season had one great moment). So, we don’t blame you if you’ve missed some things. And because we love you, we’re going to be your fashion fairy godmothers, and round up everything you need to see if you haven’t already (and if you have, all of the amazing things you should look at again). Below, our favorite runway moments — or, as we like to call them, the only ones worth mentioning.

 

Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear:

Spring can be really boring. I mean, florals, for Spring? Groundbreaking. No, but seriously, it can really hard to re-invent the wheel when that wheel is a limited range of flowing skirts, mini dresses and caftans. That’s why our favorite brands threw out seasonal rules altogether and did things like patent leather and hoodies.

 

Alyx

 

For Matthew Williamson’s first ever runway show for his four-year-old brand Alyx (or, as its named now, 1017 Alyx 9SM for Williamson’s birthday and the location of his first studio at 9 Saint Marks), the designer went all out. Instead of debuting a ton of cliche Spring pieces, like bathing suits and floral dresses, the collection looked almost as if it could’ve been for Fall. With a post-apocalyptic vibe perfect for our current political climate, Willliamson’s pieces looked like a uniform for, albeit incredibly fashionable, anti-fascist soldiers. Sign me up.

 

Vetements

 

VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019 – WATCH THE OFFICIAL VIDEO – LINK IN THE PROFILE

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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For fashion world darling Demna Gvasalia’s turn on the runway, the designer paid homage to his home country, Georgia. Gvasalia casted the show with all Georgian teenagers, and took the opportunity to teach fashion insiders about the current political turmoil happening in the region. In fact, each piece from the collection comes with a giant bar code, that once scanned with your iPhone, will open an app that features facts about the country. And as much as I want to hate Vetements, I wish I could afford to pay $1,000 for a sweatshirt.

 

Kenzo

 

Prints, prints, prints. #KENZOSS19

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Kenzo S/S ’19 was all about prints. Gingham, checks, polka-dots, snakeskin — you name it, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon designed it, and styled it together. The whole maximalist, should-be-clashing-but-instead-looks amazing thing has always been Kenzo’s vibe, but each season Lim and Leon seem to do it better and better. After last year’s Spring collection, I really thought the brand had reached their peak, but this season even makes me want to wear color.

 


 

Resort:

Honestly, I shouldn’t have even included Resort on this list, since it’s really not a list – it’s just Miu Miu.

 

Miu Miu

 

If Miu Miu’s Resort ’19 collection was bad, it truly wouldn’t have even mattered. With a casting like the one they had at The Regina Hotel in Paris last week, including Rowan Blanchard, Kaia Gerber, Uma Thurman, Chloe Sevigny and Naomi Campbell, no one would have even noticed the clothes. But we did, because the collection was perfect. Kind of preppy, but with a race car driver-meets-Valley of the Dolls-meets-Maui sort of look, the Miu Miu collection was what Miuccia Prada still does best, even after all these years: it was fun, it was free, and somehow, between all the clashing prints and furry heels, it was still subtle.

 


 

Fall ’18 Couture:

Couture is all about fantasy; it’s about staring at beautiful clothes you desperately want but have absolutely nowhere to wear them to. When it came to this year’s Couture Week, our favorite designers didn’t let us down, delivering some of the dreamiest collections we’ve ever seen grace the runway. I mean, Kaia Gerber at Valentino. Enough said. But don’t worry, we’ll say more anyway.

 

Chanel

 

For his Fall ’18 Chanel couture show, Karl Lagerfeld paid homage to Paris. Honestly, everything the guy does is good, and the fact that he’s still able to send tweed two-pieces down the runway, and make them look good — well, that alone, proves he’s a genius. In addition to his love of Paris, the designer built this collection around what he calls the “high profile” — long skirts that unzip to show thigh-bearing minis underneath. “You can wear it zipped down when you visit your banker, no?” he told Vogue. “And zipped up when you see your lover after!”

 

Valentino

 

At this point, there’s no way you haven’t seen at least one photo from the Valentino couture show. Images of Kaia Gerber in her amazing beehive have literally been flooding the internet. But for once, the talk is true and all the hype is worth it. The Valentino collection was the MVP of Couture Week — and maybe all of 2018. Obviously, Pat McGrath and Guido Palau killed it with the beauty; but the collection itself was completely breathtaking. I mean, the models looked like actual angels floating down the runway in their billowy gowns and floral headdresses.

 

Fendi

 

 

Fendi always knows what they’re doing. For their couture collection, the brand took a step back from the logomania that’s taken over their last few seasons, and created a ’60s-inspired ode to fur. While a lot of the industry has vowed to go fur free, Lagerfeld has doubled down with Fendi. Though the collection included bits of actual fur, it was more about the ways in which he treated other fabrics that created a sort of gaudy (but in a good way), glam feel that I totally could’ve imaged Liz Taylor or Anne Welles in.

 

Margiela

 

Discover highlights from our Autumn-Winter 2018 ‘Artisanal’ Collection designed by @jgalliano: The nomadic idea of taking life on the road is conveyed in abundant layering where garments interweave and mutate. #maisonmargiela #artisanal #artisanalartistry – Music: “Unchained Melody” Written By: Alex North & Hy Zaret Courtesy Unchained Melody Publishing LLC – Black Saturn, Nicholas Hill, Luciano Ugo Rossi, Glenn Herweijer; Ben Sumner. KPM Music When The Clock Stops, Nikky French. KPM Music Breakacuda,Benjamin Medcalf. Anger Music Circus Caravan MYMA. Justement Music Flight Remembered, Nicholas Hill, Glen Herweijer, Ben Sumner. KPM Music The Arrival, David James Caton, Harry Valentine. Anger Music Etude in e major, Frederic Chopin, Tolga Kashif, KPM Music Warhammer, Darren Mudge. Anger Music Arrangement : Jeremy Healy

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Galliano went all Fifth Element for his latest Margiela Artisanal collection (he’s too cool for couture, natch). Using VR headsets and iPhones as accessories, the designer sent a retro-futuristic, technology-obsessed collection down the runway. And hey, since people are already attached to their phones, physically adhering them to our outfits seems like a natural next step. That, or we’re going to war with aliens and Galliano is designing the outfits.

 

Viktor and Rolf

 

To celebrate their 25 years together, Viktor & Rolf decided to take 25 of the brand’s most iconic looks, and update them for their Fall ’18 couture collection. That update meant turning everything white and covering them in Swarovski crystals. Though I’ve always been a fan of Viktor & Rolf, there’s literally nothing more perfect than the bed dresses they originally created for their Fall ’05 collection — or, at least, I thought, until I saw this season’s iteration, complete with white bedazzled pillows and a down evening dress. Sigh. This is what dreams are made of.

 

Photos & Video: Instagram

Maya Rudolph, Fred Armisen Star in Kenzo Fashion Film

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If you’re looking for clown content that’s a little less It and American Horror Story: Cult and a little more existentially distressing, you may want to take 13 minutes to watch Kenzo’s new fashion film. Cabiria, Charity, Chastity is the directorial debut of Orange is the New Black actress Natasha Lyonne, and to say that it’s bizarre would be a massive, egregious understatement.

Kenzo is already known for creating top quality, surrealist films for its collections – their last, directed by Spike Jonze, won a Grand Prix at Cannes this year – and this clown-centric piece doesn’t disappoint. Lyonne wrangled up a star-studded cast that includes Maya Rudolph, Fred Armisen, Macaulay Culkin, Leslie Odom Jr., and Greta Lee. Oh, and she got almost all of them simply by texting them – because Lyonne is just that good.

In the film, Rudolph plays Chastity, who winds up on a time-traveling journey of self-discovery that includes clown school (as taught by Armisen), a cabaret, a terrifying Macaulay Culkin, and a gibberish language that the director made up for the film. We’d try to explain the story, but after two run-throughs, we still have literally no idea what any of it means.

While we anxiously await Kenzo’s SS18 show on September 27, to see how the film ties in, take a break and watch it in all its weird glory.

 

Maya Rudolph Looks Glam in the Trailer For Kenzo’s Surreal New Fashion Film

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The first full trailer for Natasha Lyonne’s directorial debut with Kenzo is finally here, and it looks as magnificently vaudevillian as we could have ever dreamed.

The film also stars Fred Armisen, Leslie Odom Jr., Greta Lee, Macaulay Culkin, Waris Ahluwalia, James Ransone, Matt Lucas and Natasha herself. Titled Cabiria, Charity, Chastity, it is  about, according to Paper“the illusion of significance in a surreal, unjust and often unintelligible world, yet finding meaning within it and retaining a form of hope despite of it.”

The full film will be released September 15.

 

Kenzo Closes Paris Fashion Week With Entirely Asian Cast Two Act Play

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@kenzo on Instagram

Kenzo certainly knows how to put on a show. The fashion brand helmed by Humberto Leon and Carol Lim closed a highly memorable Paris Fashion Week last night by staging an event dedicated to two of their greatest muses: Ryuichi Sakamoto, the renowned musician and composer behind such films as The Last Emperor, and the model Sayoko Yamaguchi, who served as muse to the brand’s creator, Takata Kenzo.

But this was no ordinary runway experience. Rather than remain confined to a line of men and women walking stoically down a catwalk, Leon and Lim decided to stage a two-act play, complete with a musical intermission, fashion acrobats kareening up and down the walls of the space, and a cast composed of entirely Asian models, a tribute to the brand’s roots.

“We felt like it would be really beautiful and poetic to cast a full Asian cast and celebrate the heritage of the brand,” the pair said.

The first act of their play, titled ‘Building the Bamboo Houses,’ was a tribute to Sakamoto, while the second act, ‘Love Letter to Sayoko,’ was, fittingly, an homage to Yamaguchi.

The show was held at the Lycée Camille Sée in Paris.

“For both [Men’s and Women’s] collections, we aim to capture the duality of the two figures,” they continued. “We look to the era when our muses ruled on two distant continents: to Riyuichi’s personal flair when questioning the norm, and to Sayako’s ability to mix patterns, prints, silhouettes, and color.”

Take a look at the space, some of the clothing, and models cascading down the walls below:

État de mon âme. Haute voltige au show Kenzo. It means : love is wall. #kenzo show #pfw #mfw @kenzo

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Kenzo Just Cast Our Dream Film: Macauley Culkin, Fred Armisen, Maya Rudolph, and Leslie Odom Jr.

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Photo: @Kenzo on Instagram

Huge cinematic news: Kenzo’s upcoming fashion film will star literally the most iconic assemblage of actors we can imagine off the top of our heads right now. Oh, and the film is written and directed by the fiery and fantastic Natasha Lyonne, so you know it’s going to be amazing and freaky. They announced the upcoming project through this Instagram post, which leads us to believe there will be a circus-y vaudeville vibe to the whole experience:

For starters, there’s Macauley Culkin, who we’ve been begging to enter the fashion sphere ever since he served us pom pom hat realness in Home Alone. Maybe he’ll play a washed up clown smoking cigarillos in a corner backstage.

Then, naturally, there’s Maya Rudolph, the Queen of All Things, who looks fabulous, by the way, in a furry jacket and neck bow. We’re imagining her to be the uproarious hostess of the show, who maybe is also a tap-dancing sensation?

Fred Armisen is here, too, and likely playing a mime of some kind, based on his makeup. Rounding out the cast are British comic Matt Lucas, Waris Ahluwalia, Greta Lee, James Ransone, and Leslie Odom Jr. And if Kenzo’s past films are any indication, this is going to be a new masterpiece.

I mean, anyone else still watch this every day before work?

 

Kenzo Releases Trippy, Rave-Inspired New Fashion Film

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For their S/S 17 campaign, fashion brand Kenzo teamed up with Traum Inc. to produce a wild, collage-y video inspired by rave culture both past and present. The video features prints from the new ready-to-wear collection fused with archival footage from the late videographer Nelson Sullivan, who captured scenes from 80s and 90s New York club life on tape.

Traum Inc., who created the video, said of the clip, “It’s obvious to us that rave culture is not a finished story, it’s still in a state of transition from our past to future — in the middle of which we all are,” HypeBeast reports.

They added: “Past or future, there’s a great deal of optimism in the context of rave culture – it’s all about the notions of unity, acceptance, love, respect and possibilities within the international, interracial, intersexual and non-binary community. This is why we want to believe that this culture will continue existing, growing and progressing, it couldn’t be more relevant in 2017… We see Nelson Sullivan’s work as iconic and revolutionary – while documenting his day-and-nightlife surroundings he also documented the birth of a culture, and invented the format of video blogging – way ahead of his time. This video is our expedition into the different eras, where we created a visual dialogue between the yesterday and the tomorrow. ”

Watch the film below:

Shop the latest Kenzo collection here.

Insta-Critic: Everything you missed from #PFWeekend

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The weekend lineup at Paris Fashion Week was filled with shows that veered on the side of statement-making drama–the kind of shows that provide ample fodder for Instagram. On the quieter side of things, some of Paris’s hippest labels–Kenzo, Celine, and Chloe, to name a few–showed collections that subtly evolved their brands while staying true to their cool-girl roots. See the full roundup below!

Junya Watanabe played with dressing in three dimensions. The show featured graphic skirts, done in rigid pleats and topped with fantastical honeycomb hats.

#paris #pfw #junyawatanabe #show #fw15 Details from the show JUNYA WATANABE

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Hat head at Watanabe

This season Haider Ackermann sent out a more boyishly tailored, less romantic collection. Done in dark prints, the fitted jackets in tweeds and velvets displayed masterful pattern-mixing.

Great mix of patterns #haiderackerman #parisfashion A photo posted by @janeantonacci (@jnantonacci) on

Mixing prints at Haider Ackerman

Vivienne Westwood stayed true to her Brit-punk sensibilities and sent out a collection of perfectly off-kilter clothes, featuring ball gowns for the boys and pant suits for the girls. Completing the runway’s unruly party theme? The German band Die Hartjungs performed live.

Westwood’s wild party dress

Comme des Garcons showed an (unsurprisingly) avant-garde collection this season, delivering white lace and cotton confections fit for royalty and styled with the dark lace veils.

On the runway at #CommedesGarcons. #PFW A photo posted by WWD (@wwd) on

Hyperbolic dressing at Comme Des Garcons

Acne presented a collection worthy of wardrobe envy, featuring high-waisted pants, patch pockets, and plenty of tweed. If the clothes weren’t enough, there are always the coveted Acne accessories: this season the sculptural, high-heeled ankle boot is the one to get.

Acne gets eclectic

Olympia le Tan‘s collection was fit for a prima ballerina who likes to party on the weekends. Those sweet touches of hand-illustrated scrollwork were drawn by the designer’s Dad.

Hand-drawn designs at Olympia Le Tan

Kenzo has sportiness in its DNA, but this weekend the label notorious for sending out statement patterns went for a more refined approach of piling up long, contrasting layers in surprising satin finishes.

Kenzo’s dark drapey looks for fall

True to form, Celine sent out cool, modern clothes women want to wear, but this season, the typically minimalist label got a bit cheeky with tighter bodices and a woodland animal motif.

The bags were big at #Celine #PFW A photo posted by WWD (@wwd) on

The bags at Celine

As Lorde, Kelly Rowland, and Poppy Delevingne looked on from the front row, this season’s Chloe girl embraced a take-charge aesthetic. Still, the relaxed 70s mood that prevails at the brand was still present: slouchy wide-leg pants and plenty of fringe kept things floaty.

I am feeling all sorts of understood at Chloe

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Chloe does fringe for fall

Humberto Leon Wants You to Buy a Men’s Winter Jacket, Ladies

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It’s getting to be the time of year when all I can think about is whether or not to take the plunge and buy a SAD lamp. It’s dark at 4 p.m., and so cold the only way to walk is with your entire face buried in your clothes. So when we arrived at Kenzo’s pre-fall viewing/lookbook shoot surrounded by curtains of colorful, stringed beads, reflecting light around the room (very elevated-Claire’s circa late ’90s), we felt instantly uplifted. Off to the far end of the room, were models shooting the lookbook in real time. Then, moments later, the images were posted to a wall amongst the clothes on mannequins, giving a sense of the process behind a collection.

kenzo bts

kenzo lookbook

look1 kenzo

Humberto Leon, one half of the design team behind the uber-cool Kenzo, (and Opening Ceremony), created with Carol Lim, can relate to that doldrums-y-uninspired feeling forecasts like the ones this week can inspire.

“It’s just about owning your favorite jacket, whether it’s a parka or a shearling coat. It’s just about having that staple warm coat and putting anything with it.

“I always kind of liked the idea of buying men’s winter jackets for themselves. I always thought it was such a great idea because you get the volume, and an immediate kind of coolness.”

Pro-tip, obviously. After all, A men’s outerwear jacket, oversized already, means room for your four different sweaters underneath.

Leon noted that the collection is based around hidden languages–evident in many ways, but particularly a pair of bad-ass hieroglyphic-printed wide-legged trousers.

kenzo 2

Note the furry clogs.

kenzo wall

“The Kenzo language is always about color and brightness,” Leon says. Take a look. It’s a language we want to speak.

kenzo bags

Surreal Life with Kenzo and David Lynch

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Image courtesy of Kenzo

Kenzo just released some images and a teaser video for it’s fall winter 2014 campaign, and they’re really weird in a really good way.

The campaign, created in collaboration with Toiletpaper magazine’s creative team — Maurizio Cattelan, Piperpaolo Ferrari, and Micol Talso — Kenzo’s creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, “bring the viewer on another perplexing exploration into the Parisian fashion house’s collections,” according to the release.

The five-some have previously collaborated on Kenzo’s fall winter 2013 and spring summer 2014 campaigns, focusing on the development of characters and protagonists. This season’s campaign, inspired by David Lynch, places models Guinevere van Seenus and Robert Mckinnon in an unusual environment, and revolves around their exploration and interaction with this beautiful, alien world.

Oh, also, they’re wearing beautiful clothes. Peep the teaser video and another image below, and get excited for more videos and gifs to come every day this week on Kenzo’s blog, Kenzine.

KENZO_FW14-TOILETPAPER_-_SHOES__LEG