Gucci Gucci, Fendi Fendi, Prada: Milan Fashion Week Dispatch #1

Posing not only a contrast to the over the top, boisterous fun that was London Fashion week but also to the brand’s most recent collections, Gucci was wildly tame. Gleaning inspiration from the brands ‘60s collections, full on glamour was replaced with clean silhouettes and smart, simple tailoring. The fits were kept shrunken, with body hugging blazers and above the knee mini dresses and the colors kept to a pastel palette of dusty rose, baby blue and mustard yellow.  Highlights from the collection? Sumptuous leather tops, chunky python boots and drop crotch denim — yes, Gucci did denim.  Though the looks appeared simpler than what we’ve come to expect from the brand, crystal embellished necklines and panels of pleated skirt reminded us that Gucci was still in fact Gucci, bling and all.

Guicci.Style.com

 

While androgyny was a trend embraced by many designers this season, Alessandro Dell’Acqua illustrated how striking the juxtaposition of feminine and masculine dressing can be. In layering a heavy gray menswear inspired jacket over a sequin and feather dress he showed exactly what Pat Benatar meant when she sang,  “Love is a Battlefield” during the closing song of the show. Many of the looks suggested a morning after ensemble, last night’s party dress topped with a flannel coat or camel cardigan stolen from a paramour’s closet.  A No.21 girl is simultaneously a tomboy and a socialite who tosses a floral holographic sequin coat over a pair of gray flannel trousers. (Pictured at top.)

Karl Lagerfeld’s Fendi was a variety show that shifted between four distinct themes but still managed to feel united. There were ladylike hourglass silhouettes and coats pinned with orchid. There were sporty urban looks with mesh inserts and fur-cum-Mohawk details. There were military inspired bomber jackets and furs patched together to resemble camo. And lastly there were strong Nordic connotations with an emphasis on luxurious layers and furs draped around shoulders belted together with leather straps. Despite a deluge of must have pieces and accessories, a certain Karl Lagerfeld Bag Boy three-fur-purse overshadowed them all  (sure to become a cult favorite especially after Cara Delavigne danced it around Lagerfeld during his closing bow.)

Fendi Style.com

 

Roberto Cavallli kept it close to home for Just Cavalli this season despite a tendency to pull his inspiration from more foreign affairs. This season he celebrated his hometown of Florence with an earnest tribute to Medici statuary and the arches of Santa Maria Novella, which were printed on dresses and trousers alike. Abstracting the prints with neon colors and overlaying brushstrokes kept the prints inline with the rock and roll vibe synonymous with the label. It is impossible to talk about the show without commenting on the copious amounts of fringe, which migrated from bags and heels to the cuffs of coats and the legs of jeans. Floral brocade jackets and motto inspired details help to ground the more outrageous pieces, such as one space cowboy gold leather jacket that felt more fit for a rave than a Renaissance.

J.C Style.com

 

It is with little hesitation and even less surprise that I call Prada the best show so far. Funneled in through a black felted tunnel, the stage or sound-proof “recording studio” equipped with sunken orchestra pits, housed the musical soundings of Kurt Weill sung live by Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s “Lola” a la Barbara Sukowa. The show began with minimal sleek menswear tailoring then quickly escalated into a brightly colored phantasmagoria of sheer shift dresses, highly saturated shearlings and bold art-deco prints. Looks began with silk scarves tied around the neck and ended with wedged heels and boots. The vibe was sensual without ever faltering toward sexual; Miuccia Prada exercising her uncanny ability to make even the dowdiest shapes feel feminine and seductive. The best example of this an oversized sporty V-neck thrown over a modest high-neck silk dress. The outerwear was some of the best we’ve seen this season with dark overcoats that boasted contrasting piping in metallic leather and shearling: practical, wearable yet still dramatic.  Likewise can be said for the entire collection, great potential for commercial successful with out losing anything in the way of artfulness and drama.

Prada Style.com

Miranda Kerr, Stefano Tonchi Show Support at Just Cavalli’s New SoHo Flagship

Walking into Roberto Cavalli’s new Just Cavalli Store in SoHo is like taking a little break from reality and entering the world of gold encrusted animal prints. Being lured with bubbly and a signature martini featuring Mr. Cavalli’s namesake vodka is certainly an element that helped with that.

The Italian designer pulled out all the stops for the opening of his ultra glam shop at 434 West Broadway, just steps away from Cipriani Downtown. A quick fashion show engulfed the crowd as models strutted looks from Just Cavalli’s collection through the entire store, ending outside in the freezing cold as they posed for photos with Roberto. A match made in heaven! A shopping spree at Just Cavalli and a bellini spree at Cipriani’s. I’ve probably already made your Saturday plans!

Inside the shop, Miranda Kerr barely posed for photos, as she was too busy lounging in V.I.P. of course. The scene was getting pretty nostalgic… Heather Graham was making small talk with former “Runs House” star Angela Simmons… I wonder what that conversation consisted of. Making a commotion when he walked in, Jonathan Cheban showed up sans Kim Kardashian- what a let down. And all W‘s Stefano Tonchi had to do was christen the space with his glorious presence.

Walking up and down glass staircases covered with translucent snake print is something everyone should do at least one time in their lives. The flagship store carries ready-to-wear, runway pieces, jewelry, handbags, and shoes. Stop by to get your print-fix.

Bryan Boy (Bryanboy.com) in Just Cavalli@Just Cavalli Boutique Opening NYC, 12-12-2013  Bryan Boy

JUST CAVALLI Opening Cocktail + Fashion ShowAngela Simmons

Heather Graham in Just Cavalli@Just Cavalli Boutique Opening NYC, 12-12-2013Heather Graham

Eva Chen in Just Cavalli@Just Cavalli Boutique Opening NYC, 12-12-2013Eva Chen

Roberto Cavalli with models in Just Cavalli@Just Cavalli Boutique Opening NYC, 12-12-2013

 

Trends Out of Pre Fall: The Big Eight from Chanel, Alexander Wang, Belstaff, and More

Only a month and a half out – cue panic – from the new and improved New York fashion week, we can’t help but wonder what designers will bestow upon us this coming season. If the pre fall collections are any indication of what’s to come, we’ll be seeing an inundation of fringe, plenty of pleats and lots of lace. Plaids and floral will be prominent pattern stories, as will the black and white pairings that we saw this past spring. Big volume will remain a big player. And Bermuda shorts will make an impressive comeback.

(Above) Lace Resort

Seen at: Burberry, Jason Wu, Rag & Bone

Dark, dramatic lace could be found all throughout the pre fall collections.  This season’s lace felt romantic, sensual and not in the least bit girly.

BermudaTriangleBermuda Triangle 

Seen at: ALC, Rag & Bone, Thakoon, Band of Outsiders

Reminiscent of a schoolboy uniform from private schools past, Bermuda shorts came back in a more tailored way. Rather than being oversized and slouchy they were grown up – a crisp, formal approach to the menswear trend.

BlackWhiteCompare and Contrast

Seen at: DKNY, Donna Karan, Alice & Olivia, Narciso Rodriguez

The back and white pairings that dominated spring runways came back bolder and even more graphic. The contrasting colors felt distinctly harder, tougher, and seemed to harken back to the 1960s.

CowgirlsIndiansCowgirls and Indians

Seen at: Chanel, Derek Lam, Alexander Wang, Nicole Miller

Cowboy hats, boots, and fringe, oh my. Epitomized by Chanel’s show in Dallas, the cowboy trend was more apparent than ever. Fringe found itself on everything from bags to the backs of dresses and broad rimmed hats and over the knee boots.

InFullBloom In Full Bloom

Seen at: Badgley Mischka, Erdem, Alice & Olivia, Temperley London

A perennial trend, flowers bloomed bold and beautiful this fall. In pastel pink and brooding black, blooms were rendered in a dozen different ways. We loved the graphic interpretations as well as the retro inspired prints.

Plaiditude A Plaiditude

Seen at: Altuzarra, Belstaff, Rachel Comey, Thakoon

Cleaning up the grungy plaids of last fall, this season’s tartans are crisp and classic with a modern twist. Interpreted in new color combinations and shapes the plaid feels reinvigorated and new.

PleatsPleasePleats and Thanks

Seen at: ALC, Gucci, Tory Burch, Missoni

Pleated skirts in delicate swingy fabrics look simultaneously classic and fresh, especially when reinterpreted in silver metallic fabric or paired with sleek, minimal accessories.

sizemattersSize Matters

Seen at: Adam Lippes, Just Cavalli, Derek Lam, Proenza Schouler

Proving more is more. Jackets and pants in particular were given an extra dose of volume. Big, boxy structural shapes reigned supreme.

After Dark Makeup: Lower East Side & Just Cavalli

After the sun goes down, the makeup brushes come out in full force. Beauty junkies can get away with a lot when roaming New York’s Lower East Side: the bars are dark, the drinking is heavy, and people look good in that uncombed, rolled-out-of-bed way. Just Cavalli sent this LES bar-hopper down the S/S 2010 runway the other day in Milan. She looks exactly the girls we know who shop at Blue&Cream and Opening Ceremony, hang out at White Slab, Darkroom, and Gallery Bar, eat at Les Enfants Terribles, and wear a ton of MAC. Appropriate, since MAC was in charge of creating the look. Maxine Leonard, the artist in charge, describes the look as “rock n’ roll to reflect the collection. The girls look a bit like they did their makeup themselves and had a great night out.” Here’s how the pros captured the LES girl.

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Base ● Foundation: Studio Moisture Tint SPF 15. ● Cheeks: Blushcreme in Joie de Vivre.

Eyes ● Base: Pro Black Black Paintstick. ● Liner: Kohl Power Pencil in Feline. ● Shadow: Pro Pigment in Black Black. ● Liquid Liner: Boot Black. ● Lipstick: Black Knight (applied on lid). ● Blush: Powder Blush Azalea (applied on brow bone). ● Mascara: Pro Lash Mascara in Coal Black.

Lips ● Gloss: Lipglass in Frankly Fresh.