Resurrection Summons Fashion Gods With New Retail Store

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Photography: Alexander Thompson

In 1996, Mark Haddawy and Katy Rodriguez founded Resurrection, a retail archive that would become one the world’s premiere international venues for collectible and historic clothing. With locations in both Los Angeles and New York, Resurrection has attracted high fashion icons including Prince, Catherine Denueve, Lou Lou De la Falaise, Azzedine Alaia, Iman, John Galliano and Chloe Sevigny—not to mention Kate Moss, who Rodriguez cites as their longest running, most loyal client.

“Kate Moss came into the store on our first day 20 years ago,” she said. “She will always hold a special place in our hearts and history.  She embodies our generation’s curious take of high and low fashion and everything in between.”

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Alexander McQueen Dogtooth Cocoon Coat (2009), Alexander McQueen Sarabande Lace Gown (2007), Alexander McQueen Runway Gown (2008)

With a new location on Great Jones, Resurrection opens its doors to celebrate a brand new, custom retail gallery and archive. In addition to their vast inventory of vintage pieces from fashion gods like Christian Lacroix, Gaultier and Moschino, Haddawy and Rodriguez are celebrating three specific archive collections in their new space.

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It begins with a selection of rare 20th century, out-of-print books showcased on custom Brian Thoreen brass shelves, moves on to Bulgari Jewelry (including the company’s famous Tubas watches) and finishes with a pupil dilating curation of Alexander McQueen pieces.

“It’s really special,” Rodriguez said. “The collection spans McQueen’s career from our perspective. We love the early pieces as much as the very famous later collections. He was such a unique force.  It’s been an important reminder of what great is.”

Later this month, Resurrection will showcase a rare collection of Maison Martin Margiela and in September, will debut a Helmut Lang show—stay tuned.


Resurrection, 45 Great Jones Street, is open Monday – Saturday from 11 AM – 7 PM.

Margiela Changes Its Name + 5 Fashion Meltdowns to Remember

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Maison Margiela Artisinal Spring 2015, Courtesy of Maison Margiela

With regard to everything except the clothes, John Galliano‘s much-talked about return, the debut collection for Maison Margiela was a drama free affair. The location? The 4th floor of a new London office tower. As Vanessa Friedman put it for the New York Times, In case you missed it: new building, new businesslike beginning.” All of this quiet professionalism is intentional. The clothes will speak for themselves, giving Galliano a chance to cement his status of “in recovery” from the infamous drunken, anti Semitic rant of 2011. 

Something else happened too, almost silently. What’s been “Maison Martin Margiela” since 1988 became “Maison Margiela.” It seems a wise choice to make this move with little-to-no fanfare–after all the noise surrounding the Saint Laurent rebranding was louder than anything else, for quite some time.

The name change has avoided controversy, perhaps because Galliano himself is already enshrouded in it. With the demands of a countlessly expanding seasonal schedule (spring, fall, resort, pre-fall, couture, and so on,) immense financial pressure, and fierce competition, fashion can break one down and chew one up ’til there’s nothing much to do but pitch a fit. Here’s a look back at a few designers who did:

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1. John Galliano’s Anti-Semitic Rant

First up in our short history of fashion tantrums, let’s revisit the incidents that led to Galliano’s firing from Dior. In 2011, Galliano went on a drunk tirade, one he later said he remembered nothing of, verbally attacking a couple in Paris, starting with ethnic slurs and moving on to criticize the woman’s clothes, thighs, and more.

At trial, he cited the immense pressures he felt on the job and said he was addicted to alcohol, sleeping pills, and valium. The judges disagreed, deeming him to have had “sufficient awareness of his act despite his addiction and his fragile state.” 

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2. The Saint Laurent vs. YSL Debacle

This infamous name change must have had public relations professionals everywhere shaking in their boots, and probably paved the path for Margiela’s approach to rebranding — a what not to do.

Hedi Slimane’s entrance at the house formerly known as YSL was shaky on many grounds. Around 2012, it was a straight-up disaster though. Business of Fashion‘s founder and Editor-in-Chief Imran Amed wrote extensively about the ongoing interactions with the communications team after they were asked to edit a tweet (as BlackBook’s social media manager, I know very well that this is impossible) and ultimately neglected invitations to Slimane’s debut collection “because they were unhappy with the ‘tone of voice’ that we have used when writing about YSL.” There was also mass confusion over the name and to how the company would be referred. A lengthy press release was concocted to divvy up appropriate nomenclature.

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3. Christophe Decarnin Ordered to Stay in Bed

The crowd was confused when the 2011 Balmain show closed and then-designer Decarnin was nowhere to be found to take a bow. Immediately, conflicting reports emerged. Had the designer suffered a mental breakdown, was his absence due to drugs, or had he simply stayed up too late the night before, putting finishing touches on the collection?

Reps for Balmain cited “Doctor’s Orders” to account for his absence. Decarnin was reportedly recovering from nervous exhaustion, reigniting a frequent discussion about the potentially dangerous pace of the fashion industry today.

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4. Cathy Horyn Calls Oscar de la Renta a “hot dog”

After a harsh review with a colorful if misunderstood quasi-insult from Cathy Horyn (“far more a hot dog than an éminence grise of American fashion,”) the late ODLR wasted no words nor money to address his response, which he issued vis-à-vis a full page ad in WWD, entitled “An Open Letter to Cathy Horyn from Oscar De La Renta.”

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5. Is Jil Sander at Jil Sander?

Jil Sander founded her eponymous house in 1968. Since then, she’s exited and re-entered so many times that her comings and goings are both hard to keep track of, and met with incredulity.

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John Galliano Debuts a Wild Couture Collection for Maison Margiela

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Maison Margiela Spring 2015 Couture illustrated by Joseph Larkowsky

When Anna Wintour first stepped out at the British Fashion Awards in December in the first gown John Galliano designed under his new appointment as creative director of Margiela, the fashion world wrinkled their collective nose and shrugged their shoulders a little. I mean, yes, very pleasant. Lovely black floor length number with swirling floral detail, an almost mimic of a Galliano dress Wintour has worn previously from his Fall 1995 collection under his eponymous label. But for a world preview of what is to come, it was, by any standards, a tad mundane.

Cut to Monday afternoon in London. With tension building, and after the shocking news that Galliano would be showing there instead of the traditional French capital during the official Couture season in a few weeks, the fashion elite gathered for what turned out to be a complete barrage of ideas, intrigue, illusion, and amazing craziness.

Galliano was known during his previous employment for his extravagance, glamour, beauty, and eye for creating red carpet ready ball gowns for any Hollywood A-Lister. Margiela however, is not known for its Hollywood affiliation, but its constant play on the essence of fashion, fabric manipulation, frivolity, and raw ideas.

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It seems Galliano took advantage of this and really experimented with basically anything the designer and team could find. This was plainly explained by the first look, a beige paneled waistcoat outlined with sprayed black toy cars, racing around the neckline, pockets, and hem. Models wore two tone tights, with matching shoes sporting sculpted heels.

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Red made a prominent appearance, in skirts teamed with tiger skin jackets, a column halter dress and a 3D embroidered frock-coat and ball gown, the former covered in sprayed cabochons and seashells depicting a tribal Schiaparelli-esque face, the latter strewn with a golden bullion bib, and an eclectic mix of…stuff teamed with a golden scull mask, reminiscent of the Roman Catacomb Saints.

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Galliano’s trademarks raised their iconic heads. His affiliation and constant reinvention of the 1920/’30s saw the light in a scalloped fringe and loose, cropped opera coats, as well as the golden glittering hair caps, as well as bias cut skirts and sheer tulle appliqué gowns. He also touched on some of the ideas the House of Margiela had done previously; stonewash and black denim hot pants made an appearance, as well as a selection of masculine black suits, some double breasted, some encased in a tufty shrug of black hair.

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This collection is still in its early stages; it’s been a while since we have seen such passion and interest in design, and especially couture. It is a grower, and it does require a closer look for anyone who may be skeptical. The details, the ideas, and the execution are all phenomenal, as blatant or as quietly concealed as they may be. It will definitely be a collection to remember.

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As for where to go from here, I’m really not sure. Galliano quickly becomes a master wherever he is. He harbors the passion and talent to apply it to any scenario, blatantly seen during his one season stint at Oscar de la Renta. His aesthetic and own personal style and taste will always follow him, and it will always be something his avid followers want to see. Whether the appointment at Margiela will be a long term fix, we don’t know, but as an initial mark-making exercise on the current consumer driven face of fashion, it was indeed more one made with a spray-can instead of a fine-tipped pen.

Collection images courtesy of Maison Margiela

John Galliano Headed to Margiela?

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The rumor mill is swirling with talk of what would be a pretty remarkable second chance for John Galliano who made a very ungraceful exit from Dior circa 2011 after a drunken anti-semitic rant caught on tape.

If however, rumors that he will take the helm at Maison Martin Margiela, are true, perhaps Galliano, who has said that he feels his best designs are still within him, might be able to redeem himself in the fashion world, if not through his words, then through his work. Renzo Rosso (founder of Diesel) has not confirmed the appointment, but did say, “Who wouldn’t like to work with him? If he ever got back his name, I would be the first to produce his collections.” Margiela would be the first big name at Margiela since Margiela himself left in 2002. The house remains very highly-regarded for it’s modern, avant-garde styles, and would undoubtedly be a major point of re-entry for Galliano.

Who’s In At Oscar? Not Galliano.

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This is what happens to prodigal designers who out-price themselves. After failed negotiations (Oscar wouldn’t front the money John Galliano wanted) Oscar de la Renta is reportedly looking for a new creative director, one who will work with Oscar for now, then take over when the 81-year old retires.

Galliano didn’t make the cut, but names like Prabal Gurung and Olivier Theyskens (the designer who currently oversees Theory) have been thrown into the hat. Jason Wu’s name was on the list too, until he accepted a gig with Hugo Boss last year.

Prabal’s red carpet style is a great fit for Oscar… and Olivier’s been at Nina Ricci  — beautiful dresses are what both designers do.

Good luck to both.

Prabal Gurung


Olivier Theyskens

Visual Xanax: A Good Day To Be Bad

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What better way to kick the week away than to get into a little trouble? And by the way, Mercury’s gone direct now.

Photo: John Galliano photographed by Richard Avedon in 2003

Need another hit? Click here.

Visual Xanax: Skin, Sun, Accessories, Done.

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Dreaming of a time when Shalom’s getup would offer more than enough warmth in the sun. Just add SPF, you know?

Image: Shalom Harlow for Christian Dior by John Galliano, fall 1997

Want more, need more Visual Xanax? Click here.

FashionFeed: The Best ‘Best-Of’ Lists of 2011

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● Fashionista’s roundup of top fashion editorials features that memorable Vogue spread with the ageless Natalia Vodianova cuddling with stylish wunderkinds Elle Fanning, Chloe Moretz, and Hailee Steinfeld. [Fashionista]

● Here’s a roundup of the 10 best pop-up stores of the year, which includes Nicola Formichetti’s spectacular concept store. [Racked NY]

● Derek Blasberg’s best-dress of 2011 features a mix of obvious choices (Alexa Chung, Kate Moss), but also includes some surprises, like breakout star Elizabeth Olsen. [Harper’s Bazaar]

● Cathy Horyn’s picks for notable moments in fashion range from the John Galliano debacle to Giovanna Battaglia’s gravity-defying Stephen Sprouse gown at the Cannes Film Festival. [NYT]

● Fashion Gone Rogue’s best beauty editorials include Anais Pouilot‘s striking braid game and Joudan Dunn’s intricate headwear in Vogue Paris.  [FGR]

● Some of this year’s top fashion magazine covers include a crying Hailee Steinfeld for LOVE and a provocatively positioned butterfly for Garage.  [Styleite]

 

John Galliano Cancels Parsons Class, Dresses Like This

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Have you heard? John Galliano’s BFA course at the Parsons The New School has been cancelled. Have you heard what else? John Galliano now masters the art of what we’re going to call "golf-grunge," according to his latest look seen on the streets of New York. Just this week, the former Dior designer was spotted on the streets with Vogue‘s Grace Coddington sporting a rather unusual look. Veering from his signature Shakespearean Pirate style, Galliano has adopted a mash-up that would make Kurt Cobain, Tiger Woods, and a dad in Wichita. Intrigued? See it all after the jump.

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Photo via FameFlynet