Isabel Marant Showing Her First Menswear Line at Paris Fashion Week

 

Isabel Marant will show her first menswear collection tonight at Paris Fashion Week, as a complement to her womenswear Spring 18 line. The men’s clothing will be cut from the same fabrics, just altered to better fit the male figure.

“It’s very on for girls to borrow their boyfriends’ clothes, but actually my husband is borrowing my clothes,” Marant told Vogue. “So I just wanted to show the reverse point of view: saying that men could also borrow womenswear.”

The collection will feature plenty of knitwear – tees, sweatshirts – as well as trousers and shorts.

“Sometimes you have sweaters where the neckline doesn’t really work for men, or the shoulders,” Marant continued. “I was thinking it was a bit stupid not to do it, because in the end it’s quite easy and natural for me.”

Her more affordably priced Étoile collection will also begin to offer men’s pieces in the new season, though Marant is still not going to go completely into the masculine world.

“My aim is not really to go into menswear completely,” she said. “I don’t want to go into making men’s fashion shows and all that; but always to have in the collection a translation of what I think could be good for men from my womenswear.”

Insta-Critic: Isabel Marant’s Belted Bohemian

Isabel Marant knows what works. Her legions of adoring fans really never tire of her ruched minis that somehow make ruffles feel relevant, her fashion forward takes on Baja hoodies and other Berkeley-appropriate gear, the printed pants, and boxy coats. They’re mainstays of the aesthetic that has made Marant a star. The twist–or rather one of the truest trends of the moment, was that tightly cinched, nipped-in, leather waist. Seriously, by the looks of this season, we’re all going to have to do “waist training” like Kimmy K just to stay chic. (Just kidding, I would never do that, I like donuts too much).

Now that is a belt.

Marant mini skirt, oui s.v.p! @isabelmarant #PFW

A photo posted by Moda Operandi (@modaoperandi) on

Marant’s mini and boots combination stays chic.

Exits, Returns, and Debuts: The Fashion News You Need to Know

Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

1. Peta Protests Men’s Woolmark Prize

While Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow were celebrating another big win for their line Public School, PETA protestors (in the form of three vegan male models, carrying a replica of a bloody sheep carcass and signs, wearing synthetic sweaters,) protested the use of wool, pointing to a study that showed severe mistreatment of the animals in Australia. Woolmark contests these claims.

2. H&M & Coachella Collaborate

Festival attire inspires an Instagram frenzy and countless blog posts each year, so H&M decided to make it official with a collaboration with Coachella inspired by the classic American festival aesthetic.

3. Isabel Marant Casts Natasha Poly

Isabel Marant’s new campaign explores the female’s feline side, with hair inspired by a lioness and a decidedly playful characterization for model Natasha Poly, who, Marant told WWD, has a lot of different characters and we knew she would play the game.” The playful campaign was shot by fashion faves Inez & Vinoodh. 

natasha poly4. Pringle of Scotland Exhibition

Pringle is celebrating it’s 200th anniversary in a deservedly big way. The brand will debut a major exhibition called “Fully Fashioned: The Pringle of Scotland Story” at the Serpentine Gallery during London Fashion Week. In addition, the show will feature new campaign images will be presented, shot by Albert Watson of Scottish figures including Stella Tennant, David Shrigley and Luke Treadaway as well as a collaboration with Michael Clark Dance Company. Finally, Pringle will introduce, Deconstructed, a customizable service allowing shoppers to add a personal touch to their cashmere purchases. 

5. Frida Giannini’s Left Gucci Earlier Than Expected
GUCCI and Spinello Projects Present Smell The Magic by Kris Knight
Photo: Joe Schildhorn /BFAnyc.com

We knew Frida Giannini was leaving Gucci, we just didn’t know how soon that would be. Apparently, Giannini left last week, a full month earlier than anticipated. According to WWD, sources say Giannini was asked to leave the company last Friday, rather than after her Fall women’s show on February 25th, as originally planned. It is believed this is a result of efforts to speed up the company’s process for upcoming decisions regarding creative direction for the company.

6. Viviane Sassen for 3.1 Phillip Lim

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First of all, 3.1 Phillip Lim is verging on it’s 10-year-anniversary, which is insane! To celebrate, the brand returned to ideas Lim views as essential to its DNA, bucking convention by eschewing hair and makeup, and heading to Morocco with art photographer Viviane Sassen for a shoot based around the theme “Romancing Reality.”

7. Kim Kardashian Lands Vogue Australia Solo Cover

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Though we can’t help but wonder if she’ll ever land the U.S. cover spot on her own, this cover adds more fuel to Kim’s fashion fire. We know we have her coming up soon clad in Prada on the cover of LOVE, and her ad campaign for Balmain just launched. When Kim sets out to become a fashion icon, you better believe she’s gonna get it done.

8. Cathy Horyn is Back


CAUDALIE + L'WREN SCOTT Launch EventPhoto: Angela Pham/BFAnyc.com

It turns out her exit from The New York Times after 15 years was not a final bow. The famed critic will join The Cut as critic-at-large, starting with the fast-approaching February shows.

9. Adidas Questions the Meaning of “Superstar”

Rita Ora, Pharrell Williams, David Beckham, and basketball player Damian Lillard come together in this video to make probing and skeptical claims about what it means to be a superstar (“If you think a superstar is people wanting to know where you are, who you’re with, and reading about what you had for breakfast, or caring about what you wear to an event…”) –while wearing the athletic brand’s classic 1969 sneaker of the same name.

These Dogs Are Chicer than You

Snoopy and Belle wear Isabel Marant

Snoopy and his sister Belle have wardrobes so chic they’re on display at the New Museum.

Some of my favorite fashion week moments are those that pay homage to fashion with a bit of light-heartedness. They are at once abundant and not-abundant, and sometimes they’re kind of destroyed by seeming like little more than Instagram-bait. There was, however, something decidedly unpretentious and in fact, adorable about #SBIF (that’s Snoopy and Belle–Snoopy’s sister, who knew?–in Fashion) a small exhibit I went to see at the New Museum’s Sky Room.

Snoopy (Charlie Brown’s pup) came into the world in 1950–two days into the premiere of Charles Schulz’s beloved Peanuts series. In 1968, Snoopy became a soft, cuddly toy, produced by Determined Productions and by the 1980’s fans were requesting clothes for their Snoopy stuffed animals. Connie Boucher who worked at Determined decided to reach out to the highest-end couture houses. Schulz was amazed that such famed designers were willing to lend their talent, but indeed they did. Snoopy was one chic beagle. Thirty years later, Snoopy and his sis have done some collecting to say the least.

In fact, it’s so fab that if I had Belle’s wardrobe, waking up for fashion week each day would be far less stressful. Outfitted by Anna Sui to Rodarte, J. Mendel to Dries Van Noten, Isabel Marant to Costello Tagliapietra, the siblings are impeccably fashioned and look dashing in each iteration. The exhibit is a testament to the weird and wonderful whimsy that keep fashion fun.

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Snoopy and Belle in casual vintage Chanel

snoopy versace
Decked out in Versace

snoopy rodarte
Majorly envious of these Rodarte ensembles

snoopy phillip treacy
Super on trend with headwear this season — in Philip Treacy

snoopy bibhu

Hedi Slimane to Design YSL from LA

Now that it has been speculated and confirmed that former Dior Homme designer turned renowned fashion photographer Hedi Slimane will indeed succeed Stefano Pilati’s role as YSL creative director, everyone wants to know where he’ll make the magic happen. Will he stick to tradition and work out of YSL’s Parisian headquarters or will he switch the game up and design from his homebase since 2007, Los Angeles?  Ever the rebel, Slimane chose the latter. 

According to British Vogue, although Slimane will maintain the design reins from his West Coast studio, "fittings will still take place in Paris and YSL ateliers will continue to work from the label’s Avenue George V offices." They also note that London-based Phoebe Philo of Céline is the only other creative director of a French fashion house to go against the grain and work elsewhere. 

While Philo’s relocation definitely worked out for her (I’m pretty sure some Philophiles have physical shrines dedicated to Céline), I’m curious to see how the notoriously laidback LA will affect YSL’s European sensibility. Slimane’s first YSL collection as creative director is expected to drop this month.

On another note, Vena Cava now has a studio in LA, Vera Wang bought a home in LA, Céline is re-opening their Rodeo Drive boutique and Isabel Marant is setting up shop in West Hollywood—I suspect the grooming of a West Coast fashion capital. 

These Isabel Marant Sneakers Are Available for Pre-Order at Barneys

Unless you have $999 to drop on eBay, the now-infamous Isabel Marant Bekket high-top suede sneakers that Beyonce wore in her "Love on Top" video are pretty much sold out everywhere. And while we can all say sayonara to our hopes of ever owning that particular style (knock-offs don’t count), we’ve just discovered a new style of the French fashion designer’s kicks that are available for purchase, in a variety of sizes, right now.

The Isabel Marant Willow sneaker features multiple velcro straps, multi-color panels, a pillow tongue, and the hidden wedge heel we know and love from the Bekket. For $760, these babies can be pre-ordered and shipped as early as February 2012, which isn’t exactly early, but worth the wait if you’ve been itching to get in on the high-fashion high-tops trend.

If the Willow is still too pricey for your taste, you can always snap up these killer Nike Air Force 1 sneakers by The Lake & Stars at the label’s pop-up shop on 57 Walker Street (between Broadway and Church) until November 23.  

It’s Isabel Marant For H&M Day

I would be lying to you if I said I had not been stalking the Isabel Marant pour H&M line since it was first announced – every press release, every lookbook leak – I was there and I was bookmarking and copy pasting.  November 14th has been marked on my calendar since June and last night nothing could have deterred me from waiting in that line, not subzero temperatures, not an early morning alarm, not even the fact that I would be waiting for five hours for a chance at fifteen minutes within the store.

However, once inside, something changed.  As I stood there clutching my four items as if my life depended on it, I realized that I didn’t know if I actually wanted any of the things I’d be hankering for, for the last few months. I held out the stunning beaded jacket that I thought would change my life and realized for the $400 dollar price tag I could probably find the original jacket that this one was inspired by from her Spring 2012 line somewhere on the internet for a similar price. And though this piece was clearly artful, it didn’t meet the shiny, high-resolution expectations that the internet had created for it.

This mid-shopping crisis ignited a whole outpouring of thoughts on collaborations. Where collaborations win is in the bridging-the-gap between high and low-market fashion. For the designers it spreads brand awareness to a much larger audience and in the case of Isabel Marant, a deluge of press. For the consumer, it’s a chance at owning something from a designer that one could usually not afford. There is a luxury in being able to buy a pair of fringed booties, some leather pants, a jacket and an oversized sweater all for the price of just the high-fashion pair of boots. There is more wiggle room in the way of commitment thanks to the lower fiscal sacrifice. One can change their mind on about an item without feeling the guilt of having spent the cost of rent on it, and that choice alone is freeing.

This said, as I stood there holding Isabel Marant’s knock-off of her own jacket, I couldn’t help but feel unsatisfied by the copy. I wanted the real thing. Even if it meant having to save up for longer (yes, much longer.) Having seen the “real one,” to which this was a very astute nod, there was something unsettling about buying one that was mass-produced at a lesser quality. Had I not of seen the real one, known the fit and feel of the fabric, maybe I wouldn’t have cared, but I had and I did.

Similar to Phillip Lim’s collection for Target, where almost every piece was inspired by an exact piece from the designer’s previous runway collections, the Isabel Marant collaboration was chock full of pieces that I could name the exact runway show I had first seen the garment in. Rather than creating original pieces, true to their vision and aesthetic, it seems that designers are very much taking inspiration from their own previous designs for the lower-markets.

I don’t know how I would feel if I had saved up to buy Marant’s original fringe booties or Lim’s ‘boom’ sweatshirt just to have it be available the next year at H&M or Target.  In some ways I would hope that should I make the decision to buy the high-fashion runway piece, make that financial sacrifice, that it would stay exclusively at the high end of the spectrum and that future collaborations would offer original, new pieces.

But, even as I write this I have to admit that I am simultaneously on H&M’s website, yes, scrolling again through the collection and strategically planning when today I can make it back to the store to try again. Maybe I won’t be spending the $400 on the beaded jacket or the $300 on the booties but I don’t think I would ever be able to forgive myself should I not get that black blazer and that oversized men’s sweater. It’s still Isabel Hearts-Aflutter Marant.

So clearly, I am confused.

Isabel Marant x H&M: 5 Styles That Should Make the Cut

OMFG: Isabel Marant is H&M’s next collaborator. The news hit select inboxes late last night, causing editors across the globe to stop that silly thing called sleeping to share the news with anyone that would listen. The cult-cool Parisian designer’s first-ever collab with the fast-fashion retailer is set to hit 250 stores worldwide on November 14 of this year and will include apparel and accessories for women, teenagers and, another first, men. In anticipation, here are five (wedge-sneaker-free) Marant designs that I really, really wouldn’t mind seeing a variation of in this capsule. 

1. This leopard coat from Fall 2009

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2. This entire look (or at least the boots) from Fall 2011

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3. This fantastic rainbow crochet situation from Spring 2012

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4. This hot dress (or anything, really) from Spring 2013

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5. This skirt from Fall 2013

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BONUS: Catch Marant chatting about the collab below.