Insta-Critic: Miu Miu Marries Grandma Style and Exotic Skins

Photo: @miumiu on Instagram

There will be no secrets here: Miu Miu is a brand I feel passionately about. The first pair of designer heels I ever splurged on were one of Miuccia’s creations. No one keeps whimsy elegant like Miuccia, and (forget the famous Chanel apartment), I frequently think that her world would be the fashion universe I’d most like to live in. Today’s show was simply a case-in-point. On the Miu Miu runway a fabric as old and traditional as tweed is revitalized instantly by the addition of patches of python. Big collars and Little House on the Prairie fabrics became super-mod when layered under mini shift dresses made entirely of exotic skins. Playful daisy costume jewelry finished off many a look, but trust–ultimately, it will be the cheeky shoes (wonky patents in retro hues with blocky heels) that have many editors cleaning out their closets.

I have a thing for ruffled cotton blouses! @miumiu #pfw #fall15

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Not your average Grandma…(see Daisy accessories, Little House patterns and ruffles, and exotics-infused tweed).

The gorgeous @iamayajones rounds the bend @miumiu #pfw

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It’s a snakeskin mini dress, yes it is!

The @miumiu shoes oh my… Make room in your shoe closet for the Fall #becausefw

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Note the SHOES.

Pattern mixing on point.

A parade of colorful exotics.

Insta-Critic: Valentino’s Richly-Embroidered, Romantic Dresses

Valentino’s design duo Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli know what their customer wants. For fall/winter 2015 they piled on classic Valentino beading and embellishments, lavishing empire-waist dresses with richly embroidered arabesques and floral forms. Yet, in spite of the careful attention to detail, the finely-wrought clothes still managed to feel surprisingly boho chic. All those sheer panels and strips of lace lent a youthful weightlessness to the floor-skimming dresses so things didn’t get too heavy. Of course, all the floaty fabrics in the world couldn’t prepare the audience for the most light-hearted element of all…the surprise appearance, and a major teaser: Zoolander and Hansel on the runway.

#VALENTINO #FW15 #PFW #LagoBluBlog @maisonvalentino

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Graphic prints on bold, patterned dresses

Rich metallics

Heavy embroidery at Valentino

GustavKlimt gilt meets CeliaBirtwell-esque chinois prints @maisonvalentino #Valentino #paris #aw15 A photo posted by POP Magazine (@thepopmag) on

Long lines and romantic prints

Insta-Critic: Chanel, à la Brasserie

Coffee with Coco, or Karl would top many a fashion person’s bucket list, to be sure. And for some editors etcetera the chance presented itself this morning, No expense was spared in giving the Grand Palais a Chanel level makeover by which it became Brasserie Gabrielle, a place where impossibly leggy and chic models (you know the drill by now…Kendall, Cara, Joan…). As for the clothes, they served as a chic reminder that lunch is reason enough to look chic. Oh, and the shoes. Well, suddenly I desperately want a (very sensible and easily justifiable!) pair of two-toned sling-backs à la my grandmother.

Lady-like lunching @chanelofficial @kendalljenner #pfw #fall2015 #treschic

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Conservative skirts made very cool.

Maybe just never leave this booth.

Saucer clutch @chanelofficial #pfw #fall2015 #jadore

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The bag to snap was this assiette clutch.

Reaching very peak levels of cool over here.

Insta-Critic: ’80s Boys and Biker Babes at Saint Laurent

With the Parisian twilight as its backdrop, Hedi Slimane’s Fall/Winter show for Saint Laurent ushered in a full-force biker-chic extravaganza staged on a set of rock concert proportions. This was statement-making fashion ripped straight out of clubs, music videos, and movies of the 1980s (think: Madonna, circa “Desperately Seeking Susan”). Styled with chains, tattered fishnets, and extreme eyeliner, the references were not subtle. “Pretty In Pink” taffetta dresses and bold patchwork furs came down the runway alongside Saint Laurent’s borrowed-from-the-boys classic: Le Smoking went retro-punk for the occasion, thanks to the sly introduction of the Bowie-esque tie.

Outfit for twilight in Paris @ysl

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Attention-grabbing outerwear at Saint Laurent

Biker jackets for everyone

Baby doll grunge brought to you by Hedi Slimane! Photo by @maximsap report by @nichapats

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The 80s make a bold comeback

Menswear goes evening with a touch of sparkle

Insta-Critic: Sonia Rykiel’s Lesson in French-Girl Chic

Before a set comprised of 50,000 books, Sonia Rykiel’s creative director Julie de Libran sent out a collection brimming with that covetable unstudied, French girl chic, or, je ne sais quoi. That Parisian insouciance came in the form of sequined dresses layered over sweaters or double-breasted coats paired with short skirts. Nonchalent nods to vintage Rykiel turned up in the striped knit wear peeking out from beneath those lavish extra-plush coats that have recently become Rykiel staples. One such coat, tiered in hues of black and beige and worn by fashion week darling Gigi Hadid, made for the instagram statement of the evening.

The studious setting

@AnnaEwers walking for #SoniaRykiel in a navy blue look #PFW @soniarykiel A photo posted by Vogue Paris (@vogueparis) on

Getting very Parisian at Sonia Rykiel

Final! #LeMiroirLeVraiDialogue #FW15 #PFW #regram @modaoperandi

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Gigi on the catwalk

#SoniaRykiel #pfw A photo posted by Richard Johnson (@mrrmjohnson) on

Colored fur at Sonia Rykiel

Insta-Critic: Bold Color Defines the New Hermès

The debut of a new creative director is always a much anticipated affair. Today’s, from Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, formerly of The Row and Céline, had Hermès fans breathing a sigh of relief: the house’s reputation for refined elegance is still in good hands. Vanhee-Cybulski sent out a decidedly covered-up collection of long sleeves, high necks, and long skirts. Still, there was a move to reinvigorate old classics with pops of yellow, red, and blue. And even the classic Hermès equestrian blanket got reimagined as a luxe cashmere poncho coat, complete with the modern touch of a sporty racer stripe.

Beautiful color at Nadége Vanhee’s Hermes debut! #pfw

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A parade of rich reds

Bright pops of primary colors

The striped blanket coat for fall

So #chic it’s calming me… Bravo Nadege @hermes #hermes

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Luxe textiles stay refined yet modern

Insta-Critic: Giambattista Valli’s Psychedelic Femininity

The Valli collection presented us with a new brand of ultra-femininity. Of course, to conclude that this suggests some kind of saccharine style would be wrong–think more psychedelic, kaleidoscopic prints with luxe details (fluffy fur pockets–a trend for sure), sharply tailored trousers, and childlike, pastel florals. The clothes were stunning, but note the shoes–those lace-up booties will be everywhere.

The @giambattistapr #pfw finale

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Femme florals on sharply-tailored pants.

Today’s must-own-to-die-for-dress courtesy of @giambattistapr #PFW #mustown #comingsoon

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You might want to buy a turtleneck dress now.

Coming and going at #Giambattistavalli #PFW

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Something psychedelic about it.

Statement boots at Giambattista Valli @giambattistapr show, Paris.

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An instant IT-shoe.

Insta-Critic: Everything you missed from #PFWeekend

The weekend lineup at Paris Fashion Week was filled with shows that veered on the side of statement-making drama–the kind of shows that provide ample fodder for Instagram. On the quieter side of things, some of Paris’s hippest labels–Kenzo, Celine, and Chloe, to name a few–showed collections that subtly evolved their brands while staying true to their cool-girl roots. See the full roundup below!

Junya Watanabe played with dressing in three dimensions. The show featured graphic skirts, done in rigid pleats and topped with fantastical honeycomb hats.

#paris #pfw #junyawatanabe #show #fw15 Details from the show JUNYA WATANABE

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Hat head at Watanabe

This season Haider Ackermann sent out a more boyishly tailored, less romantic collection. Done in dark prints, the fitted jackets in tweeds and velvets displayed masterful pattern-mixing.

Great mix of patterns #haiderackerman #parisfashion A photo posted by @janeantonacci (@jnantonacci) on

Mixing prints at Haider Ackerman

Vivienne Westwood stayed true to her Brit-punk sensibilities and sent out a collection of perfectly off-kilter clothes, featuring ball gowns for the boys and pant suits for the girls. Completing the runway’s unruly party theme? The German band Die Hartjungs performed live.

Westwood’s wild party dress

Comme des Garcons showed an (unsurprisingly) avant-garde collection this season, delivering white lace and cotton confections fit for royalty and styled with the dark lace veils.

On the runway at #CommedesGarcons. #PFW A photo posted by WWD (@wwd) on

Hyperbolic dressing at Comme Des Garcons

Acne presented a collection worthy of wardrobe envy, featuring high-waisted pants, patch pockets, and plenty of tweed. If the clothes weren’t enough, there are always the coveted Acne accessories: this season the sculptural, high-heeled ankle boot is the one to get.

Acne gets eclectic

Olympia le Tan‘s collection was fit for a prima ballerina who likes to party on the weekends. Those sweet touches of hand-illustrated scrollwork were drawn by the designer’s Dad.

Hand-drawn designs at Olympia Le Tan

Kenzo has sportiness in its DNA, but this weekend the label notorious for sending out statement patterns went for a more refined approach of piling up long, contrasting layers in surprising satin finishes.

Kenzo’s dark drapey looks for fall

True to form, Celine sent out cool, modern clothes women want to wear, but this season, the typically minimalist label got a bit cheeky with tighter bodices and a woodland animal motif.

The bags were big at #Celine #PFW A photo posted by WWD (@wwd) on

The bags at Celine

As Lorde, Kelly Rowland, and Poppy Delevingne looked on from the front row, this season’s Chloe girl embraced a take-charge aesthetic. Still, the relaxed 70s mood that prevails at the brand was still present: slouchy wide-leg pants and plenty of fringe kept things floaty.

I am feeling all sorts of understood at Chloe

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Chloe does fringe for fall

Insta-Critic: Hands-Free at Stella McCartney

The look was minimal today at Stella McCartney. The runway was full of drape-y sweaters, classic coats, and asymmetric suiting. The most dramatic looks came in the form of McCartney’s body-covering faux furs. Lots of sleeves covered hands, or hands were tucked into pockets (a sure way to a woman’s heart). Notable touches were added in the form meticulously engineered plays on the off-the-shoulder look and twisting pearl chokers.

Note the necklace.

NYC winter approved @stellamccartney #pfw A photo posted by Elle Magazine (@elleusa) on

I can’t believe it’s not fur

On the coat wish list @stellamccartney #pfw

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The classics

When pockets are a feminist issue! 🙂

Doily maxi @stellamccartney

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60s vibes and a high neck!