How Last Night’s CFDA Award Wins for Pharrell, HBA, and The Row Are Changing Fashion

Kanye West presents Pharrell Williams with the Fashion Icon Award at the 2015 CFDA Awards. Photo: Joe Schildhorn/BFAnyc.com

What does CFDA Awards win for The Row mean for fashion? How about the Eugenia Sheppard Media Award being given to Instagram founder Kevin Systrom, or Pharrell’s recognition as a Fashion Icon?

Obviously the world is changing — has changed — and we’re just further witnessing its acceptance. The Row, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s fashion line, initially perceived as a “celebrity” brand, has again received the highest honor in its category, winning Womenswear Designer of the Year (the first time was in 2012). A media award founded in honor of venerated fashion journalist Eugenia Sheppard was given to a photo sharing app we all use, presented by Kim Kardashian, a reality star who has been accepted by Anna Wintour and the fashion industry as a whole. Pharrell accepted his honor stating, “I’m not a style icon, I’m just inspired.” And at a time when transgender people (the incredible Caitlyn Jenner, anyone?) are in the spotlight, Shayne Oliver’s androgynous design for Hood By Air won the Swarovski Award for Menswear  — yes, trans issues and androgyny are separate, but Oliver’s win is still a testament to widening acceptance of people, design, and visions that may have previously been deemed too “different.” And fortunately, the embrace of different is what fashion is all about these days.

We’re withholding judgment and evening out the playing field. It may not always feel like it, but as a whole we’re becoming more open to the world around us, to being inspired by people we may not have noticed, admired, or turned to before. And that’s a good thing.

Click here to check out the must-see photos from the CFDA Awards, and everything you might have missed from the after party at the Top of the Standard.

Backstage at Hood By Air: 26 Photos from Behind the Scenes

Photos: Leandro Justen/BFAnyc.com

The beauty and grooming at Hood By Air was as much talked about as Shayne Oliver‘s clothes for the fall/winter 2015 collection. Check out photos of the looks in progress, models posing backstage, and Oliver and crew getting ready for the show, below.

Check out our review of the show + runway photos here.

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

HOOD by AIR Fall 2015 Fall Show

 

Ambisexual Dressing for Anonymous Pimps and Prisoners: Hood By Air Fall/Winter 2015

Photo: Leandro Justen/BFAnyc.com

As the lights went up in the stripped bare Wall Street setting on a frozen Sunday morning, the loudspeakers blared an audio clip from Empire, “I want to show you a faggot,” remixed over jazz and classical music. The Hood By Air FW15 show had begun, and first up was a semi anonymous model, face blurred and obscured by a stocking that smushed features together in an almost clown-like fashion, the association helped along by hair styling and tonal differences between stocking and skin.

For more fashion week coverage, click here.

LOOK 1

This was not quite the affair Shayne Oliver showed for his label last season, with appearances by giant dogs and artists like Boychild. The scene was set this time by a custom floral Regimes de Fleurs fragrance wafted through the location, and the clothes spoke all on their own. Oliver’s inspiration stemmed from the pimps of the ’70s, prisoner uniforms (as evidenced by the color orange in the collection,) and as always, ambisexual dress.

Check out 26 photos from backstage at Hood By Air by clicking here.

Whether it was impressed upon the models to walk this way or necessitated by the stage, Hood By Air’s men and women walked with their eyes cast downward, shy, with in the case of one or two looks, with a little bit of difficulty.

The show featured both men and women, but either could have been anyone — most sported grills under lock and key (gimp mask-like,) stockinged faces, and the ambisexual cuts and tailoring for which Hood By Air is known. Slits in dresses shown on male models were taken to new heights. There were also mini skirts and mullet hemlines in the mix, and plenty of deconstructed fur — there was the pimp reference. Reference to bondage was there in details vaguely resembling corsetry, giant logos over layers of fur restricted movement. The knife pleated pants ballooned out nicely.

LOOK 4 LOOK 8 LOOK 11 LOOK 12 LOOK 18 LOOK 19 LOOK 20 LOOK 21 LOOK 25 LOOK 26 LOOK 28 LOOK 34

 

 

Selfridges to Open Agender Pop-Up: Get Ahead with 12 Pieces from Nicopanda, HBA + More

Courtesy of Toogood

London’s Selfridges has announced that come March, Agender will open in their stores, taking up three full, androgynous floors until April. That is to say, neither female nor male mannequins, perfumes on shelves next to shaving kits, and clothes for sale sans gender delineation.

Designers Toogood, VFILES, Nicopanda, Hood by Air, Rad Hourani, Body Map, Comme Des Garcons, Ann Demeulemeester, and Meadham Kirchhoff will all take part.

Unisex clothes are nothing new — for some, there’s nothing more inspiring than Helmut Newton’s le smoking-sporting women — but that was different. It’s been a while since the surge of gender neutrality has been so strong, the look so newly defined, and the designers so buzzy. Hood By Air draws crazy attention around show time, and the brand dresses celebs like A$AP Rocky, Kanye West, Rihanna, and Ciara. Sure, they’re menswear designers, but women can and do wear the clothes all the same. Then there’s Rad Hourani, who designs the collections specifically to be worn by all genders.

Selfridges is smart to take note of the change in winds. But you don’t have to wait until March to get in on the “agender” trends; shop these pieces from VFILES, HBA, and Rad Hourani now for the look of the buzziest new direction.

 

genderneutral

(Clockwise from left:) VFILES sideline puffer; Rad by Rad Hourani rectangle cardigan; Craig Green v-neck kimono jacket; Rad by Rad Hourani jersey top; Hood By Air color block t-shirt; Craig Green tie shirt; Craig Green tie-wrap shirt; Craig Green track pant; Rad by Rad Hourani coat; Hood By Air sweatshirt; Craig Green side tie wide leg jean; Craig Green canvas wide trouser

Boychild, Mykki Blanco Perform for HBA, L’Wren Scott, Mick Jagger: Fashion News You Need to Know

Backstage at Hood By Air. Photo courtesy of Hood By Air

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Mick Jagger has donated a three-year scholarship for Central Saint Martins, the prestigious British fashion school, in the memory of his long-term late partner L’Wren Scott.

L'WREN SCOTT and KRISTA SMITH Fete the BANANA REPUBLIC LWREN SCOTT Collection
PhotoAleks Kocev /BFAnyc.com

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House of DVF will return for a second season starring season one winner Brittany Hampton.
THE ELEVENTH ANNUAL CFDA/VOGUE FASHION FUND AWARDSPhoto: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

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Agnona builds its team–effective Monday, with the hiring of Natalina Stercoli as collection director and Paola Properzi Curti as commercial director.
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Coach keeps its new cool factor in their new campaign for Spring ’15. It’s shot by Steven Meisel and features models Valery Kaufman and Julia Bergshoeff.
coach adPhoto courtesy of Coach
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Hood By Air presented a special collection for Pitti Uomo 87 at the Villa di Maiano, just outside Florence. Guests were greeted by a Florentine choir and entertained by acts including Boychild and Mykki Blanco. Listen to the playlist:
HBA0018
Photo courtesy of Hood By Air
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The New HBA Site Is Raining Men

Image courtesy of Hood By Air

Shayne Oliver didn’t get into fashion to do it like everybody else, and his relaunched site for his cult classic androgy-menswear line Hood By Air is perfectly in tune with that notion. The home page features 360 views of all the looks–men stomping across your screen in  Demeulemeester-esque knee-high combat boots and drape-y leather. Click on store and you can shop raining men–actually not kidding–and shop on the looks that catch your eye. So, if you’re looking to change up your e-tail experience, or add some variety to your add-to-cart addiction, HBA’s new site is worth a click–or more. Click away.

 

Weekend Update, #NYFW Style: Hanging with Peyton List, Travi$ Scott, and Happy Models

Peyton List and BlackBook’s Sara Spruch-Feiner at Nanette Lepore. Via @sarajanenyc on Instagram.

Alyssa: Hey girls!

Emily: Hello!!  What’d you get up to today?

Alyssa: It’s so bad but every time someone asks me that I have to look at my calendar. I’m losing my mind. Hopefully not really. Hold please. Where were you today?

Sara: Today has been insane. Honestly these are the moments I remember why I love fashion. There is a frenetic energy in this industry that is essentially inimitable. The people, their creativity is truly one-of-a-kind. I’m writing to you guys from Queen of the Night at the Paramount Hotel which is insane. We just cleared out table by THROWING dishes across a room. We are here for the new Noble collection by William Rast. It is a huge acrobatics show. The woman next to me is a horse vet and has been here before. She is showing me the ropes. It’s very interactive. We were fed short rib and wine and grapes. It’s an acrobatics show. The seats are upholstered in leopard velvet.

It was also the last day of Linda Honan’s FFF at the Highline hotel.  I dropped by Mary Helen Bowers’ Ballet Beautiful class. So that obviously necessitated a trip back to the Zappos braid bar and this time I got pics! #obsessed

Emily: Cute! I was at Alejandro Ingelmo’s presentation at Robert Miller gallery–the shoes were beautiful and it was awesome having the event at a gallery.

Alyssa: Ooh, a little art and fashion. Who was showing?

Emily: Peter Sacks. The shoes were so polished and it was cool to have them set against the backdrop of rough, texturized, modern art.

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Alyssa: So cool. I started out with DKNY, which I love loved. Coolest shoes, kind of platform sneakers… great clothes that were sporty and street but chic. Styling was great. Totally a celebration of New York and real New Yorkers. Basically I want it all.

And then I spent some time with the dudes today… Mark McNairy then the men’s presentations at Milk. Mark McNairy was so fun. Everyone (models included) had a beer in hand, and Travi$ Scott opened and closed the show. Kid is energetic. There was also a shirt that read: M*A*S*H Potatoes — I mean… Fun vibes at McNasty.

Sara: That’s funny — I raced to William Rast from the tents where I saw Nanette Lepore. I was there with actress Peyton List who is just the best. (More on her later). She sat with the cast of Orange is the New Black in the front row. And then with Carmen Electra in the MBFW lounge.

Nanette’s final model was her daughter, Violet, who drew huge cheers from the crowd. The finale was a spectacular dance party/conga line led by Nanette and Violet. The models looked like they were having so much fun!!

Alyssa: Love a good model dance party. Everyone was having fun today, including the boys at Pyer Moss, who paused mid-presentation for the all important #selfie. Usher was there… if only we’d gotten him to dance, too.

Sara: I did not have my dancing shoes on today. My feet are killing me–I put on 6 inch heels to hang out with Peyton who still towered over me 🙂

We had so much fun! She wore a blue suit by Nanette Lepore and looked unbelievable.

Emily: I feel you on the foot pain (glamorous), I’ve sworn off them for the remainder of fashion week.  Pretty sure the only people wearing heels have drivers.  That or flip flops in their purse.

Alyssa: Today at Eckhaus Latta I saw a girl carrying Timbs in clear plastic bag, the kind I use to organize stuff in my styling kit. Not so chic… but practical? Ooh and our girl Hari Nef was there, modeling in the show. Hari was in Hood By Air before that, too. BlackBook on the runway, bbs!

(P.S. you can follow us through #NYFW on Instagram at @alyssashapiro@sarajanenyc. And of course, @blackbookmag.)