Diversity In Ad Campaigns Surpasses Runways For First Time Ever

Photo: Ethan James Green for Helmut Lang

Diversity in fashion has long been a major problem for the industry, with ad campaigns consistently trailing behind runways in terms of inclusive casting. This season, for the first time ever, ads were actually more diverse than runways—30.4% of models were women of color, and more trans women booked campaigns than have been since these stats started being recorded in 2015 by The Fashion Spot.

Plus-size models were still woefully underrepresented, moreso than previous seasons—10 models in Fall 17 campaigns fall under the category, a step back from 14 models in Fall 16. Of the seven top-booking supermodels in the business, only one was of color: Adwoa Aboah, who booked just as many campaigns as the Hadid sisters.

Racially, Saint Laurent, Coach, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Gap, Helmut Lang, and Nordstrom were the most inclusive, and in terms of number of trans models, Helmut Lang, Sisley and Philipp Plein did the best.

So it’s still far from great. There’s a lot of work yet to be done. But ad campaigns see a far wider reach of viewers than runway shows, so the fact that steps forward have been taken here are something worth noting.

Helmut Lang Releases Signature Iconic Pieces of the Past in ‘Re-Edition’ Collection

Today, Helmut Lang has announced the launch of their ‘Re-Edition’ collection, where the brand will re-manufacture memorable pieces from runways past. In the first batch of clothing revivals, the label has unveiled items from shows between 1997 and 2005, including a reverse cowboy tee, denim zip jacket, and a horse hair handbag. Take a look in the following slides. The items will be available staring September 8 on HelmutLang.com.

Full list of pieces:


Take A Look At Helmut Lang Through The Lens of Ethan James Green

Photography: Ethan James Green for Helmut Lang.

Helmut Lang has got some exciting new initiatives in the works thanks to their editor-in-residence Isabella Burley – the first of which is their new Seen By Ethan James Green campaign, featuring a score of intergenerational creatives and models: Alek Wek, Chris Kraus, Larry Clark, Traci Lords, Shayne Oliver, Nicky Rat, Mari Copeny, Kembra Pfahler, Unlocking the Truth, Yoshi, Alanie Quinones, Aurel Haize, Grace Gee, Ian Isiah, Gogo Graham, Dara, and Soyhun Jung.

It will be followed by Helmut Lang Re-Edition, which will reintroduce iconic former Helmut Lang pieces into the stores; a continuation of Seen By: The Artist series, which will collaborate with twelve visual artists over the course of a year to produce unique pieces incorporating images from said artists’ work. and finally, Helmut Lang Design Residency, which, as one might guess, is offering different designers the chance to work with the brand on capsule collections. First up is former Hood By Air mastermind Shayne Oliver, who will debut his Residency collection at New York Fashion Week on September 11.



5 Star Art Shows You Must See This Weekend

Courtesy of John Waters and Marianne Boesky Gallery, New York  © John Waters


Takashi Murakami at Gagosian Gallery, 555 West 24th Street, NYC
Murakami’s In the Land of the Dead, Stepping on the Tail of a Rainbow, has been open since November (and closing January 17,) but Saturday, January 10 marks the artist’s first #InstaMeet — get there at 12:30 to take an #ArtSelfie with Murakami himself. #InstaGold
@takashipom on Instagram


Helmut Lang at Sperone Westwater, 257 Bowery, NYC
Since annihilating his fashion archives 10 years ago, the reclusive designer turned artist has been working on sculptures made up of pulped fragments of collections past. This exhibition of sculptures is Lang’s first solo show in New York. Open through February 21.
Courtesy of Sperone Westwater


Henri Matisse at MoMA, 11 West 53rd Street, NYC
Visit MoMA this weekend to see Matisse’s famous cut-outs. The show was extended due to popular demand, so get there before February 10 to avoid closing week crowds.
@themuseumofmodernart on Instagram


John Waters at Marianne Boesky, 509 West 24th Street, NYC
Running through Valentine’s Day, this third solo show of John Waters at Marianne Boesky is titled, Beverly Hills John. The exhibition includes photoshop facelifts for Justin Bieber, Lassie, and Waters himself. Make sure you see “Kiddie Flamingos,” a G-rated version of the very X-rated “Pink Flamingos”.
Beverly Hills John, 2012, C-print, Image: 30 x 20 inches  76.2 x 50.8 cm, Framed: 36 1/2 x 26 1/2 inches, 92.7 x 67.3 cm, Edition of 5; Courtesy of the artist and Marianne Boesky Gallery, New York  © John Waters


Louise Bourgeois at Cheim & Read, 547 West 25th Street, NYC
Hurry up before it closes on January 10 to catch Louise Bourgeois’ Suspension. What secrets is the founder of confessional art telling now?
photograph taken by Brian Buckley for Cheim & Read, New York
Courtesy of Cheim & Read

Visual Xanax: Deshabille Wednesdays

It’s not really caring whether or not you’re fully clothed that makes all the difference in what you’re wearing. So carry onward… the week’s halfway over (then it’s back to duvet dressing.)

Image: Shalom Harlow for Helmut Lang fall winter 2001

Need another hit? Click here.

STYLE SCOOP: Changes at Helmut Lang and Dazed (& Confused)

Helmut Lang’s artistic directors of eight years have flown the coop — Michael and Nicole Colovos will step down, leaving the FW14 show (an ominously titled collection called “Rough Terrain”) as their last. The design team will work on SS15, and Theory’s Andrew Rosen will get to choosing a designer in a few months. No rush.

Dazed isn’t confused anymore — the magazine has switched its focus to digital recently, and with the internet comes shorthand. What was Dazed & Confused became Dazed — just one name, like Madonna — and what was 12 issues per year will becomes six. Onward with the times!


‘Game of Thrones’ Inspires New Helmut Lang & LD Tuttle Footwear

Who knew the rangers of the Night’s Watch were so on-trend? Apparently Helmut Lang and LD Tuttle, because they’ve just revealed that this rugged band of soldiers on HBO’s epic fantasy series Game of Thrones motivated their fall footwear capsule. Naturally, the range features wedges and booties in 100% goat and calf suede, as well as "prints inspired by the mystical forest," per the release. Is this a fashionable medieval nerd’s dream come true or what?

Although the collection urges you to channel your inner Jon Snow, I have a hard time believing that the bastard son of Lord Eddard Stark would fork over the dough required to acquire these warrior chic styles. The midnight floral leather wedge bootie in red multi (above, left) is $695 and the burnished suede bootie in "deer" (above, right) is $645. There’s also a suede tall boot for $795 and flat boot for $750. 

Wait until these styles officially hit stores on August 2, or shop them online now here


The Creative Time Fall Ball Tonight

Tonight, the annual Fall Ball from Creative Time will be held at Output. Brian Wolk and Claude Morais of Ruffian are joining to ensure brilliance. There will be “Exclusive Art Experiences” presented by Absolut, Alex Da Corte, Eske Kath and Andre Saraiva, with “mind-altering music and a surprise performance presented by Helmut Lang.” Absolut is providing a four-hour open bar, but there’s a $75 admission.

The list of hosts and Creative Time Ambassadors would pack a dive bar. I stopped counting at 50. They include: my man Jon Neidich, chair and my pal Eric Adolfson (owner of The Wooly), Athena Calderone, Ben Pundole, Frankie Sharp, Waris Ahluwalia, Jiminie Ha, and well, a long list of the fabulous, young, smart set. They ask for creative and colorful dress. This will be amazing.

I caught up with Eric Adolfson and Chair Jon Neidich who co-owns Acme and asked them about it.


How did you get involved and who are the major organizational players?
Eric Adolfson: I’ve been a supporter of Creative Time since that crazy Ace party Jon mentioned. I’ve always been inspired by their pioneering and energetic approach to public art, understanding that art experiences make life richer. My friend Jon Neidich who owns ACME is on the board of Creative Time, as well as the boys from Ruffian who are helping him throw the event.
So tell me about this event?
Jon Neidich: Creative Time is the preeminent public arts organization in the country. They’re a badass nonprofit that makes sure artist’s voices are heard—because their voices are important in positively shaping society. They also have a reputation for throwing a GREAT PARTY! The Fall Ball is the  ball is the younger often wilder alternative to the Creative Time spring gala. The first one I went to was a pajamas party in the lobby of the ACE hotel before it opened.
Why Output?
JN: When I joined the board of Creative Time, the Fall Ball was something I thought I could change for the better. In recent years the ticket price had gone up bringing the numbers attendees and their diversity down. We had accidentally priced out the cool and as a result the party had suffered. This year we wanted to get back to our old way so we slashed our tickets prices and set out to just throw a big old-fashion dance party. Output was the perfect fit having the capacity to hold us and the sound system to let us DANCE. One of the owners, Bo Pitman, and I grew up together. Bo kindly donated the space in the name of the Arts and an epic party. I am totally in his debt– with out him this doesn’t happen.
EA: From the sounds of it, I think the party has the potential to harken back to the heyday of New York parties. The shear number of people coming to support Creative Time is going to be a sight to behold. We were too young to experience the AREA parties, but I’m hoping for a taste of it tomorrow.
Why Williamsburg?
JN:  I think we are all well aware that many artist and creatives no longer can afford to live–let alone have studios–in Manhattan. We wanted to bring the party closer to where things were happening. Williamsburg seemed like a good compromise.
EA: I’ve been reading up on the history of Williamsburg and in the 19th century, it was a bustling city filled with artisans of every kind–carpenters, iron moulders, shipbuilders. That disappeared over time. But over the past recent decades, it’s again established itself a nexus for makers, from food to furniture to art while also being recognized for its natural beauty (the East River and its parks). I’m optimistic it will continue to develop in a way that’s supportive of artists and, hopefully, affordable beer.
Who’s DJing and what are the performances?
JN: We wanted the music to be a good mix of downtown new york and brooklyn. JD Samson is opening followed buy a performance of the Dolls but with the addition of a quartet. The Tiki Disco who people may know from the all day parties they threw at Roberta’s are then kicking the dance party off. Followed by downtown club staple Jefferey Tonnesen.
We really wanted the party to be a happening of sorts with art coming in from different forms and mediums with something for everyone. Andre Sariava [Le Baron, Chez Andre] created a one of a kind Artist Dream Concert Poster which is currently wheat-pasted around the city and editions of which will be put up inside and sold at the event. Additionally there will be more in house activations and installations from Alex Da Corte, Eske Kath, Andrea Mary Marshall, and The Ruffians (Brian Wolk and Claude Morais)
$75 for a ticket—thats for the new Williamsburg, folks. The oldens are still rocking $3 PBRs, are you and yours a dreaded gentrifying force the inevitable wave? Employers of the unwashed plaid-wearing, starving, creative masses?
JN: As a non for profit all proceeds from the event go to production of future collaborations with artists. That said, its a pretty good deal since the 75 dollars buys you free Absolut vodka all night (9p-1a) and the amazing sounds of great DJs in a one of a kind setting.

BlackBook Tracks #12: Acts To See at Fashion’s Night Out NYC

It’s Fashion’s Night Out, which for some people, might be the best day of the year (just call it Treat Yo Self 2012). Special deals, limited edition gear, and complimentary drinks and snacks abound. If you’re in NYC, here are some options for music to see around town.

Theophilus London – “Last Name London”

Check out the ever-stylish rapper/Cole Haan collaborator at the Gramercy Park Hotel.


Azealia Banks – “1991”

If you weren’t lucky enough to catch her at Spin’s Fashion Week party last night, Yung Rapunxel will be appearing at the MAC store in Soho, presumably to support their new lipstick collaboration.


Icona Pop – “Sun Goes Down”

Rising Swedish duo Icona Pop will be bringing their non-stop energy to no less than four appearances tonight. They’ll be DJing at Helmut Lang in Soho, AllSaints in the Meatpacking District, and Mister H at the Mondrian Soho, as well as fitting in a live performance for Urban Outfitters.


Poolside – “Only Everything”

Dreams take flight in the new video for Poolside’s single “Only Everything,” their latest slice of chilled-out disco. Catch up on BlackBook’s Q&A with the LA-based duo and check them out tonight at 8 at Moods of Norway in Soho.


St. Vincent – “Champagne Year”

Sweet-voiced songwriter St. Vincent always has great style, so it’s no surprise that Rag & Bone are bringing her to their party. Here’s her song “Champagne Year” for a champagne night.


Frankie Rose – “Know Me”

The veteran member of Vivian Girls/Dum Dum Girls will take her darker solo project to Theory in the Meatpacking District.


Chairlift – “I Belong In Your Arms” (Japanese Version)

Synth-pop darlings Chairlift will be performing at Prada’s party in Soho. This is also sure to be a popular one.


Haim – “Forever”

LA rockers Haim have been working their way up for years, and they’re now undeniably buzzworthy. They’ll be playing at Topshop tonight.


Wild Belle – “Keep You”

Sibling duo Wild Belle will be bringing their dark pop sound to Mulberry in Soho. If you don’t get to see them tonight, you can always try to see their session at Le Baron next week.


POP ETC – “Live It Up”

The reinvented Morning Benders will be lending their weirdo R&B vibes to Morgane Le Fay’s event in Soho.