Gamal Hennessy Seizes the Night

Gamal Hennessy is writing a book about all the good things nightlife brings to New York City’s bottom line. Very few people work very hard to ensure that the city that never sleeps is not turned into a bedroom community by real estate interests and their special friends. The New York Nightlife Association meets regularly to help keep the world I write about open and vibrant. There are very few others fighting the good fight. Without such efforts, this town could easily become a Boston, with bars shuttered by 2 a.m. Gamal is a regular contributor to comment sections of blogs; he always makes insightful comments and asks great questions, and I’m happy to ask him a few as he starts to promote his book, Seize The Night.

What exactly is the book about? Seize the Night is about the cultural and economic benefits nightlife brings to New York City. The book looks at all the great things that bars and clubs bring to the city as well as the social issues that come out of the industry and suggests what people can do to help protect this important element of our society.

Why are you writing it? I’ve run a site about nightlife trends since 2005, and I often get the feeling that we don’t focus on the big picture when it comes to clubs. Operators and patrons focus on running a business and enjoying themselves from night to night. People outside the industry often see clubs as a crime or a noise issue — a problem to be solved. They don’t stop and think about all the musical genres, celebrities, design trends, and social movements that come out of New York clubs. They don’t know how many people have jobs because of clubs, how much money clubs generate for the city, and how pivotal clubs are to the economic success of the region as a whole. I want this book to help change that perception.

Who are you? What is your connection to nightlife? I see myself as an outspoken advocate of nightlife, but I have probably had every non-glamourous club job you can think of. When I got out of law school, I worked coat check and as a bar back at Webster Hall. I even ran small-scale promotions and party organization for a little while. Now I currently DJ on and off at lounges around the Lower East Side. Professionally, I come from an entertainment and publishing background, and I decided to start New York Nights because I felt like there was a need for a publication that covered nightlife the way Vogue covers fashion or Wired covers technology.

When it the book coming out? I’m hoping to have the book on shelves and on Amazon by November of this year, but I post samples of different chapters in my personal nightlife blog called Prince of the City.

How do you enjoy nightlife? Where do you hang out? When I don’t need to go somewhere for New York Nights, I prefer the lounges — places like Apt, bOb Bar, Gallery, Cielo, Lolita, Glass, and Happy Ending. Going out on a weekday is often the best time for me. The crowds are smaller, the bartenders are less stressed, and there is more variety in the music.

Industry Insiders: The Real McCoy of Larry Lawrence Bar

Over on our Mixology site in the Pros section, we asked the hottest bartenders in New York and Los Angeles to whip up a specialty cocktail while describing their perfect New Year’s Eve. Tatsuya McCoy, the owner, manager, and bartender of Larry Lawrence Bar in Williamsburg and craftsman behind the Sweet Lawrence, tells us about living extravagantly, a year on the wagon, and guys who get straight to the point.

Where do you go out? Dressler. Its American French food. The food is excellent, and the restaurant is beautiful. They also have a really nice bar. I like this bar called Happy Ending in the city. They have a lot of events. Another restaurant I like is right across the street from us, and its called Bozu.

What is your guiltiest pleasure? That would have to be going to a really expensive restaurant that I can’t afford, and having a chef’s tasting and a wine pairing.

What do you do? What do you drink? It’s not just bartending — I would say my job is to set up a very nice environment and vibe for my customers and make sure they’re having a great time. Currently I am not drinking. I decided to take a year off and see how that feels, but what I usually like is vodka on the rocks with a splash of soda. In the winter I like having a beer or a nice bourbon.

How did you get your start? Wow. I’ve been in the restaurant and bar industry for a long time. I’ve been doing this for 14 years. I started by waiting tables and moved on to bars. My happiest bartending memory was at Double Happiness in New York City, when it was very popular in 1998-2002.

What is the worst cocktail you’ve ever had to make? Oh yeah, I had to make one recently. It was Jaegermeister and Red Bull.

What’s the worst pickup line you’ve ever heard while tending bar? Probably the really forward ones that sometimes work. For example, when a girl and a guy have been talking for a while, and then the guy will say, “So, you want to have sex tonight or what?”. I’ve seen it work. What celebrity would you like to share a drink with at your bar? That would be Anthony Bourdain. He’s just a well-rounded person. He probably has great stories, and I just think I’ll get along with him.

What’s your ideal bar-hopping night in New York/LA? It would start during the day with lunch. When I used to drink, I liked to go and taste different beers at various bars. If they have food, that’s good too. Just sort of nibble on things and go place to place, probably around Williamsburg, and end up back at my bar and say hello to everybody.

What are you doing tonight? Tonight I might go to an art opening that my friends are having at their loft. Then I’m probably going to drop by Larry Lawrence. Using three out of five of the following ingredients, make me a dream cocktail: grenadine, pepper, Tequila, avocado, lemongrass. I would use tequila, avocado, and pepper. I would make a cocktail by pouring tequila and fresh lime juice. I would use some grenadine, and then I would shake it straight into a cocktail glass with a slice of avocado and sprinkle pepper on top of it. I would call it the Salsa Fiesta.

Industry Insiders: Chris Santos, Stanton Street Star

Chris Santos of the Stanton Social on his love of dives, Apothéke owner Heather Tierney, and why thinking too much detracts from dining.

Where do you go out? Well, I’m kind of a dive bar kinda guy both in drinking and for eating. I mean, I obviously enjoy a good Jean Georges or Per Se as much as the next guy, but I like sort of the hole in the wall-y kind of places. One I really love a lot is in Brooklyn. It’s called Franny’s. It’s on Flatbush Avenue in Brooklyn. A really simple rustic Italian, you know, wood-coal pizza and great appetizers and a beautiful garden in the back. On the outskirts of Park Slope basically, near the Manhattan Bridge. I’m a big fan of Back Forty, which is a small little bistro on 12th Street and Avenue B that does just a really outrageous burger and great roast chicken, and you know, simple crispy nuggets and simple, simple rustic comfort food. I’m a sucker for Strip House on 12th and University. It’s like my favorite steakhouse in the city. There’s a lot of crushed red velvet, bordello-y kind of vibe. And they’ve got great wine, and their steaks are, bam! They do a great job with their steak sauce. I go there monthly.

What do you do at Stanton Social? My title is executive chef and owner. My day-to-day life is hectic right now … in addition to this we are trying to get another restaurant together. I am working on the Stanton Social Cookbook. I am consulting for a restaurant group that’s going national. They’re rolling out 50 restaurants nationwide, and I am rewriting all their menus for them. I was in Las Vegas all summer helping my partner open the restaurant in club Lavo. I have two partners: Peter Kane, who in addition to this he owns Happy Ending bar, and he was the guy who opened Double Happiness, which closed just recently. And my other partner is Richard Wolf, who owns Tao, Tao Las Vegas, Lavo, Rue 57.

You rave about the vibe and loyalty in your kitchen at Stanton Social. Where have you worked that had a stressful vibe? I opened Rue 57, which is a French rotisserie on 57th Street. I was the sous chef, and Sam Hazem was the chef. He was the head chef at Tao for a really long time, and now he’s working to partner with Todd English. But that was just constant stress and drama, and you know it was a really teeny tiny kitchen, putting out enormous numbers.

It seems like if you’re doing more like the low-key, under the radar places; how come your restaurant’s high profile? I’m just lucky I guess. It’s really just upscale versions of street food and comfort foods. We’re not doing anything esoteric here. We’re not really challenging diners. I mean, I like to be challenged, but mostly I don’t. I want to go somewhere and be taken care of, and I want to be able to look at the menu and just kind of understand everything.

Name two people that you particularly admire in the industry. Would it be corny to say my partners? I really admire Josh Capon, who’s the chef at Lure Fishbar. He’s kind of an under-the-radar guy. And that’s kind of an under-the-radar place. He’s a fantastic cook. He was born to be the guy coming out of the kitchen in the white coat, just charming a table. I have a lot of admiration for Heather Tierney. She used to be a food writer at Time Out. She now owns a cocktail bar — Apothéke. She owns Burger Shoppe down on Wall Street, which is like a burger restaurant. She has her own dining concierge service where you’re basically a member, and she gets you reservations in hard to get places. She’s really young — she’s in her twenties, and she’s really passionate about food — and we’ll go out to dinner and just talk about, “Have you been here, have you been there?” We’ll talk about the industry. She’s just super motivated.

Name one positive trend or aspect you see in the restaurant industry. Affordable dining. I see a lot of restaurants opening (in Brooklyn especially) a lot of neighborhood restaurants that are serving really quality food. There’s this place called Buttermilk Channel in Carroll Gardens that just opened. That’s really amazing. Frankies. When I went to Europe — which was like ten years ago — I came back with the feeling that the big restaurants, the name restaurants, the three-star restaurants, Michelin-rated restaurants … I felt they were no better than anything that you could find in New York City. In other words, the top New York City restaurants were better than the top restaurants that I could find in Europe. But I also thought that where they had it on us, all over the place, was the little, tiny neighborhood restaurants and pubs. The food there was so awesome, and you didn’t have that in New York. That is a positive trend. You go down any little street in the Village now and walk into a 40- or 50-seat little Italian trattoria where the food is solid.

What’s changed as far as the restaurant industry goes in New York in the past year? How it’s affecting me directly? You know, we’ve had very ambitious plans to run a restaurant that’s twice the size of this. And we have this space, and we have a lease, and a year ago when were ready to pull the trigger, it would have been a couple of phone calls and a couple of dinners to raise all the money that we needed because you know our track record, not just at Stanton Social, but with my other partners as well. Basically everything any of us have ever done is successful, and everyone’s gotten their money back, and everybody’s making money. You know the investors here are doing very well, and we got the space back in record time. The difference is people now are hesitant to part with the money they have in the bank, with everything that’s been going on. Even though we have a great location, and we have a great track record, and when we open the next place it’s going to do very well. There are people that are so shell-shocked about what’s happened on Wall Street that they just aren’t necessarily willing to keep investing, so that’s something I think that’s really changed. I think you’re going to see the growth of the industry and openings and whatnot coming to a halt.

Do you think people are going to stop going out to dinner? People are going to stop going out to dinner Tuesdays and Wednesdays. I think you’ll still get your Thursday, Friday, Saturday night diners. You’ll still get your Sunday bruncher. And Monday night you’ll get your after-work crowd.