Gareth Pugh & Nick Knight Debut Bizarre Spring 18 Fashion Film

 

Fashion films are the new runway show. A week after Kenzo and Natasha Lyonne wowed us with a bizarre clown-centric film about Maya Rudolph discovering her soul and pushing us towards an existential crisis, avant-garde maestro Gareth Pugh has unleashed a 16-minute art film to show off his new collection.

Indeed, for spring 18 Pugh teamed with venerable photographer Nick Knight for a film that debuted at London’s BFI IMAX, which is reportedly the biggest movie screen in Europe. He also employed choreographer Wayne McGregor, as well as performance artist Olivier de Sagazan. In the beginning of the piece, Sagazan and Pugh smear clay over each other’s faces and bodies until they’re completely covered, like some high fashion ritual spa day.

It’s not until two-thirds of the way into the film that the clothes are unveiled, beginning with a gag-worthy red-haired model in a metallic red trench coat. Eventually, more models enter the red-and-black mirrored room until, suddenly, holy music begins to blare and it shifts to gold and white light. We won’t spoil the finale but, between this and the Kenzo film, we’re definitely ready for absurdist, artistic fashion shorts to become the new normal.

 

Insta-Critic: Saturday in London, The Kookier Side of FW

Photo: @utopia_electro on Instagram

While you were at brunch this weekend, a host of England’s fashion finest sent their new collections down the runway. A new week has begun (Monday, groan) so let’s make it a little brighter with some exciting fashion from across the pond.

Sibling

Sibling’s collection, simply called “Woman,” was full of Debbie Harry references (complete with tufted black mohawks) and neon-colored fair isle.

Electric fair isle    

Efforts capillaires punk chez Sibling #LFW #FW1516 @cozettemc #siblinglondon A photo posted by Printemps Official (@printempsofficial) on

   

The next big hair accessory.

J.W. Anderson

An all-out homage to the 80s in a season where the 70s have reigned supreme. Think kooky color combos (even Christmassy red and green), oversized suedes, slightly bigger shoulders–and even a wolf sweater.

JWANDERSON AW15

A photo posted by J.W.ANDERSON (@jw_anderson) on

The good news is you can get this look for less if you go vintage.

Simone Rocha A luxe collection in print and texture, Rocha’s clothes were heavy on blacks and velvets with rich brocade (a bolder print which has been popping up around LFW).    

A photo posted by simonerocha_ (@simonerocha_) on

   

Fit for a modern-day queen.

House of Holland

Always one to make some noise, Henry Holland put his models on a conveyor belt–no walk necessary. The collection was unsurprisingly bright–filled with clashing tartans and brightly striped shearling.

Tartans on the moving walkway.

Gareth Pugh A darkly patriotic collection, Pugh sent a collection that marked his tenth year, filled with dark black drama (think a Mongolian lambswool coat), chains, and most notably, St. George’s cross, red, and painted onto each model’s face.    

Garett Pugh slays…#fashion #garethpugh #LFW A photo posted by artistic evolution (@utopia_electro) on

   

The full effect. 

BFC Announces Fashion Film Winners + 9 of the Best Fashion Films We’ve Ever Seen

Gareth Pugh FW13. Photo: Leandro Justen/BFAnyc.com

Fashion shows and front rows… concepts we’re all used to. It’s the alternative media, the additions and extras, that seem to be gathering speed. Productions, performances, and film are all becoming de rigueur, and the British Fashion Council is continuing to take note.

The program, started in 2012, has helped to fund films for designers such as Mary Katrantzou, Jonathan Saunders, and Nicholas Kirkwood, pairing them with director/producers like Nick Knight and Ellen Von Unwerth. This year the recipients are Gareth Pugh, House of Holland, and Jean-Pierre Braganza.

The films will debut in the tents during London Fashion Week.

Fashion films draw a deeper connection between the brand and the viewer, offering an extra glimpse inside the designer’s world. These are some of the best we’ve ever seen, from models dancing to Pitbull at Lanvin to a Lena Dunham directed short on the topic of best friends. Enjoy.

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Lanvin Fall Winter 2011 campaign video starring Karen Elson and Raquel Zimmermann (to the tune of Pitbull’s “I Know You Want Me”)

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WREN’s “First Kiss” video, which went completely viral, featured pairs of people meeting and kissing for the first time on camera

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Yohji Yamamoto on the rituals of “Getting There” for Nowness

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The revival of Bon Qui Qui by Alexander Wang

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Karl Lagerfeld’s fairy tale for Chanel

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Rye Rye performs in Prabal Gurung

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Prada presents “A Therapy” by Roman Polanski, starring Ben Kingsley and Helena Bonham Carter

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In bed with Cara Delevingne for LOVE

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Lena Dunham’s short film “Best Friends” for Rachel Antonoff

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+ Watch an amazing Rag & Bone video featuring Lil Buck and Mikhail Baryshnikov dancing together 

Art Basel Miami Weekend: Gareth Pugh, Tilda Swinton, & Del Toro

As we emerge from the blur that was the closing weekend of Art Basel Miami, we can now reflect on the ragers that kept us going until the wee hours. And while most of the soirées we attened were on our must list, there were definitely a few unexpected stops along the way. Read on for the highlights.

Miami-based footwear brand, Del Toro, kicked off the weekend with a fete at designer Matthew Chevallard’s crib, Casa del Toro. The event honored the DT’s latest artist collaborations series, which brought the work of notables like Paul Aho, Army of One, and Pharrell Williams onto the Del Toro slipper. In addition to gifting partygoers with logo-embossed mini moleskins, Kanon Organic Vodka was on deck to refresh guests with their signature libations. The night capped with stops at Visionaire‘s Rio-inspired party, and GrandLife’s jam-packed "This is New York" bash at the Delano.

Over in the Design District, actress Tilda Swinton hosted an intimate Pringle of Scotland cocktail pairing dinner sponsored by–you guess it–Kanon Organic Vodka. Although it was Swinton’s first time in Miami, her signature minimalist style wasn’t the least bit compromised, as she rocked slicked back hair and an even slicker Pringle of Scotland trench.

Saturday night belonged to Gareth Pugh, as he welcomed guests like supermodel Lily Donaldson and actress/model Byrdie Bell to a private dinner at Baoli-Vita. The event toasted the British designer’s latest collab with Brazilian footwear brand, Melissa Shoes, and featured a very happy Pugh: "Melissa has been extremely supportive over the years, so I’m very excited to finally work with them," he told us. "And there’s no better place to toast the collaboration than here. I love this weather!" As do we. Until next time, Miami.

WR2

Gareth Pugh & MAC Collaboration to Launch in November

Acclaimed avant-garde designer Gareth Pugh and cosmetics giant MAC have been working together on a makeup line for going on two years, and the suspense has been killing us. So good thing it was just announced that this November, Gareth Pugh for MAC will finally launch. Until then, we only have hints about what to expect from the Rick Owens protégé, who comes from a fine lineage of Goth-inspired British showmen.

“If I was going to do something with MAC, I wanted it to be something special, and quite specific. The collection is very all-encompassing and versatile. It has the scope to go to the extreme…I’d rather people do that than copy what we’ve done for the ad images,” the designer told Fashionista last week at a party in honor of the collaboration.

Given that Pugh wears makeup (“It’s something that I wear everyday — I’m not getting any younger!”), the line is the perfect platform for his vision: dark and adventurous with packaging that echoes his architectural and futuristic aesthetic. “It’s like a weapon. It’s very different to MAC packaging. It’s obviously still MAC, but it’s me and MAC,” Pugh explained. This is also a chance for Pugh to widen his audience. “It’s something that for example my mother would be excited to get at Christmas, but it’s nice that it’s something everyone would appreciate, it’s nice to do something more universal.”

Pugh’s designs experiment with form, volume, and fabric – he once showed an inflatable coat, and his runway makeup is usually powder-white faces with shadowed eyes, which are some times veiled with metal plates. MAC, which has done his runway looks since he began showing seven years ago, has been a long supporter of 30-year-old Pugh.

FashionFeed: Pose 2.0, Heidi Klum 3.0

● Our favorite social shopping app, Pose, now lets you showcase your style finds within your own custom profile page. Version 2.0 also lets you discover the finds of brands like Levi’s and those of your friends. [Mashable] ● What doesn’t Heidi Klum do? The supermodel-turned-host is now a footwear designer, launching not one, but two shoe lines: A seven-style collection called HK by Heidi Klum (sold exclusively on Amazon) and a six-style sneaker collection for New Balance (available on the brand’s website). [WWD] ● Another day, another reason to shop Alex Wang. Take 40% off the designer’s spring 2011 apparel, footwear, and accessories while shopping the pre-fall 11 RTW collection. [Wang]

● Not only does Pamela Love’s fall 2011 lookbook present ridiculously cool warrior armor, but it also features our favorite pink-coiffed model, Charlotte Free. [StyleCaster] ● Fashion rebel Gareth Pugh is jumping on the commercial bandwagon, gearing up to produce a makeup line with MAC, set to launch in November. [Fashionologie] ● Jessica Stam is the face of the SS12 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week campaign, shot by Terry Richardson. [Modelina]

Gareth Pugh Forgoes Runway & Seasonal Model

Just like seasons past, enfant terrible Gareth Pugh opted to forgo a traditional runway presentation in Paris this week in favor of a short film, which premiered exclusively on ShowStudio. And his departures from the norm didn’t stop there. Along with designers like Christopher Bailey of Burberry and Rad Hourani, Pugh is offering up a little something from his SS11 collection for purchase immediately following its public debut. In essence, he’s sloughing off both the runway and the seasonal shopping model in one fell swoop. “In its bravura, its beauty, and its possibility of going viral to hundreds of million of people via ShowStudio and over the Internet, this grand slam in the virtual world poses a question that is increasingly being asked by both designers and executives: Is a fashion show really necessary?” Suzy Menkes writes in the New York Times.

“If a model trips or has a problem with shoes, that is the thing that endures. It is liberating for a designer not to have to worry about a show. You can get the models to be even more expressive and do it all in a more concise way,” Pugh said of making the video, which he did with director Ruth Hogben’s help. Furthermore, presentations like these can reach hundreds if not thousands more viewers than a typical runway show.

The medium is still incredibly new and much remains to be seen, but with so many designers making garments available pre-season, there’s a lot to be said for the growing push toward immediacy and democratic accessibility in fashion. Many would argue that these archaic structures are broken. Pugh is definitely doing his part to shatter the mold.

Rumor Mill: Gareth Pugh to Thierry Mugler

Rumor has it British designer Gareth Pugh might be headed to Thierry Mugler. The brand, founded by its namesake back in 1975, has since come under the creative directorship of Paco Rabanne alumnae Rosemary Rodriguez. (Mugler has kept busy designing custom costumes for Beyonce’s tour as well as launching books and collaborating with Cirque du Soleil.) Pugh, having garnered loads of critical acclaim and frenzied fashion followers since his own brand’s launch in 2003, is apparently in talks with Mugler. Women’s Wear Daily reports, “according to sources, the Paris-based fashion and fragrance house has held talks with the London-based wunderkind, known for his out-of-this-world silhouettes and theatrical shows.”

It isn’t the first time that Pugh has been rumored to be in talks with a major fashion house. Following Alexander McQueen’s death, many outlets were speculating that Pugh could be poached as the icon’s successor. Before that, many had their money on Pugh taking the reigns at Dior Homme. Now, “it is understood Mugler is mulling a change in fashion direction and has approached several potential candidates,” WWD adds. (It’s about time as Womanity.com is definitely not cutting it.) In other Pugh news, the designer isn’t slowing down at all with his own label. In fact, in addition to adding makeup and footwear, he’ll soon open his debut boutique in none other than Hong Kong.

Trend Report: Hanging Jewels to Ankle Boot Clogs

London : Eyewear : Hanging Jewels – First seen at retail in East London boutique Luna & Curious after bounding onto the Ann Sopie Back Spring 2009 runway, bejeweled tears are the summer accessory we all want. The ultimate in beach excess, start dangling crystals from your sunglasses before the glitterati snap them up.

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Paris : Accessories : Pyramid Clutch – In a departure from the oversized, rectangular, minimal, and boxy variations kicking around, the pyramid shakes up the clutch market. Almost architectural in its slick geometry and vivid three dimensions, Gareth Pugh’s luxe gray leather and coordinating stitching variation pitches ancient Egypt into the future. Getting in on the act, Alexander Wang finishes his battered black leather interpretation with signature studs; a less stark, equally striking take on this sci-fi shape.

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New York : Shoes: Ankle Boot Clog – With Kaiser Karl Lagerfeld coming over all Little House on the Prairie at Chanel for Spring/Summer, chunky clogs are striding back out and — for those seeking a less literal alternative — the ankle boot clog steps in. Stamped with classic clog trademarks (wooden sole, external rivet), a leather lace-up upper extended to the ankle sees the clog revitalized.

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Los Angeles : Clothing : Tie-Dye Leggings – Nowhere near hippie, humble leggings get a makeover with starkly rebellious black-and-white tie-dye. Think rock not Woodstock, as graphic bleach interrupts black, running the full length of both legs in fractured crystal tie-dye. Definitely D-I-Y-able, tap into tie dye leggings now.

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