Eating and Drinking by the Reopened Smith-Ninth Street Station

The Smith-Ninth Street subway station is the tallest in the world, which should be cause for some civic pride. Unfortunately, tumbledown infrastructure and ratty innards have long kept riders from luxuriating in the skyline views. Two years and a cool $32 million later, the F and G have at last returned to this stretch of Brooklyn. The station’s new façade is unexpectedly space-age, putting aside eighty years of industrial cred for a look that’s more Funkadelic than Wilco. Although the Gowanus may not quite be ready for destination dining status, both sides of the canal have some great places for getting your eat and drink on, accessible once again by the grace of the MTA.

Buttermilk Channel takes its name from a nearby stretch of Brooklyn waterfront, although buttermilk fried chicken with cheddar waffles is what put it on the map. If you’re looking for a killer brunch and don’t mind a wait, this is your place. Just up Court you’ll find Prime Meats, where the two Frankies take their eyes off the boot for a look back at Germany and old New York. The biggest raves are for the burgers: hefty half-pounders of Creekstone Black Angus, tender and packed with flavor.

A couple of doors up is the Falcinelli and Castronovo original, Frankies 457 Spuntino, where the pork braciola marinara and housemade pappardelle are sublime, and everything else is merely mind-blowing. Nearby La Slowteria is a neighborhood newcomer with a line in Mexican slow food. Duck comes pulled and stuffed in a crispy potato taco, slow cooked in posole stew, or paired with black mole. If it’s barbecue you’re craving, Fletcher’s has the hookup, with a maple- and oak-fueled barbecue pit imported from Texas. That should hold you until the new Dinosaur Bar-B-Que comes online. Another GoWo player is Bar Tano, which compensates for a trafficky corner with a chill Euro interior. The kitchen turns out better than solid bruschette, americo burgers, and lightly charred pizzas.

On the boozy end of things, Abilene and Lowlands peeps bookend the Gowanus with a pair of low-key neighborhood drinkeries. A little closer to Smith-9th is Draft Barn, where 250 brews have been culled from every corner of the earth for your sampling pleasure. On an even bigger scale is The Bell House, an instant G-Slope classic with stellar booking. Tonight the concert hall turns into Wasablanca—a mashup of Casablanca inspirations and Wasabassco burlesque. Wait until tomorrow and can catch epic dance party The Rub. Dance party Mister Sunday is back for at least one more summer at neraby Gowanus Grove. This year’s sessions start on May 12th, with Brooklyn brews, dancing under the poplar grove, and huaraches from the Country Boys. There are worse places to contemplate the Smith-Ninth viaduct, and wonder why they built it so damn high. (Okay, it’s for the tall ships that once plied the pristine waters of the canal.)

Photo by City of Strangers/Flickr.

[For more great places to wine and dine, visit the BlackBook New York Guide; To keep up on the latest openings and events, subscribe to BlackBook Happenings; More by Ethan Wolff; Buy Ethan’s book; Follow him on Twitter

Le Fooding: The Brooklyn Version

The famous French eating festival has finally arrived in Brooklyn, which, some might say, has the most European restaurant scene in New York. Created by Alexandre Cammas in Paris, Le Fooding has spread a concept of modern, edgier, and culture-focused eating in France, New York, and Milano for the last twelve yeras. Now, after three turns in NYC, Le Fooding has concentrated its efforts in Brooklyn.

And you, dear readers, can buy tickets for the event early by clicking this link.

This year they have four main events: Le Clicquot Brooklyn tour, cinematic brunches, Le Fooding lunches at the flea markets, and the Le Fooding Campfire Session. For the Clicquot Brooklyn Tour, they will feature four $75 dinners, complete with a half bottle of Veuve Clicquot, that pair Brooklyn chefs with their foreign “twins.” Meaning at the September 19 dinner, Brian Leth, the Vinegar Hill House chef, will cook with Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook, the guys from the popular Los Angeles restaurant Animal. On the 20th, you get a lovely pairing of Frankies 457 Spuntino’s owners Frank Castronovo and Frank Falcinelli with southern darling Sean Brock, who runs the farm-to-table joint Husk in Charleston, North Carolina. For the third dinner, they have Neal Harden and Alain Senderens preparing a vegan meal with the Paris-based chef Daniel Rose. Finally, the last meal of the series features a nomadic feast where Le Fooding organizers have opened up a kitchen in Dustin Yellin’s new building, The Intercourse, to host great chefs who currently don’t have their own restaurant. This means you can sample fare by British chaps Isaac McHale and James Lowe of the Young Turks, Ignacio Mattos, formally of Isa, and Hugue Dufour, formally of M. Wells.

The cinematic brunches will be held September 22 and 23 at Nitehawk Cinema in Williamsburg, and they plan on screening Brooklyn classics like Saturday Night Fever and The Warriors to pair with dishes that represent the borough. Also on the 22nd and 23rd, the Fort Greene and Williamsburg flea markets will open up a food stand featuring vintage eats by various Le Fooding chefs. Finally, for the last night, they will have the Campfire Session, an energetic event at the Brooklyn Waterfront with live music and, of course, more food. 

This event will sell out, so get your tickets early!

Industry Insiders: Frank Falcinelli and Frank Castronovo, Kitchen Magicians

It’s impossible to pin down exactly what makes some New York restaurants successful where so many others have failed, but whatever the secret is, Frank Falcinelli (left) and Frank Castronovo (right) are in on it. "The Franks," as they’re affectionately known, are the owners of Frankies 457 Spuntino, Frankies 17 Spuntino, Prime Meats, Cafe Pedlar, and the new Frankies 570 Spuntino, each one of them beloved by critics and casual diners alike.

The Queens natives grew up on home-cooked Italian fare courtesy of their respective grandparents, and learned the business from some of the world’s most renowned chefs in restaurants in America, France, Germany, and Australia. They partnered up in 2003 and put their collective experience into their first restaurant, Frankie’s 457 in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn the following year. Its casual atmosphere and seasonal Italian menu – including what many consider the best meatballs in town – were an instant hit. "I believe the secret to our success is that we’re quality- and value-driven, and we’re respectful of our ingredients and our guests," says Castronovo. "It’s not a hobby, it’s a business," adds Falcinelli. "You take it seriously, you’re professional in your approach, and you know what you’re doing. You need friendly service, a good atmosphere, good-value alcohols, quality, good food, and clean bathrooms – the right stuff." With their universally beloved restaurant empire humming along, you’d think they could relax a bit, but Falcinelli takes nothing for granted. "My biggest fear is that I’ll wake up one morning to find that people don’t love meatballs anymore."

 

What kinds of things were you into growing up? 
Frank C: I was really involved with sports and played hockey and football, and I was on the swim team. I also got into art because my mom was into design and clothing. There were always lots of arts and crafts at home. Always. At least five open projects at any given time. I got into it and still am.
 
Frank F: I was always into cooking when I was growing up, and since I can remember, I wanted to be a restaurant owner. I was a creative kid and enjoyed art, music and reading.
 
Where did you pick up your best cooking skills, and where did you pick up your best management skills? Were they the same places?
FC: With regard to cooking skills, it was when I was in France, working under Paul Bocuse, and later at Bouley when I came back to New York. It’s been cumulative with regard to management, going back to my first job as a manager when I was 23 at Jean Claude. I also learned a lot from my grandfather, who was a colonel in the military. He had a tremendous work ethic and I learned by his example. One position did prepare me the best in terms of management and overall efficiency. I was an executive chef for a multi-million dollar corporate catering company. Huge staff and lots of last-minute parties and events so you and your team had to be prepared. It was tough but it really trained me to handle any situation. Restaurants are so easy compared to catering where there’s no set menu and you have to control food costs. It was an intense job with long days but I was determined and ended up staying for three years, and I’m so glad I did.
 
FF: I credit a solid foundation to the CIA [Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, N.Y.] where I learned the basic fundamentals and later, expounding on these at the restaurants I worked at in France, and then working for David Burke and Charlie Palmer. They both were very influential. I learned a great deal from observing Charlie Palmer at Aureole. He was one of the first chefs to open multiple restaurants of that quality in different cities. He was a great manager and so were the guys at Myriad Restaurant Group when I was there, like Michael Bonadies who’s now down at the 21c Museum Hotel in Louisville. He was an incredible manager and all of those guys who worked with me at that time. They were all graduates of the Cornell restaurant management program so I learned a lot.
 
You’ve both spent time internationally, in Europe, Asia and beyond. Did leaving the U.S. give you a perspective that has helped you succeed since you returned to New York? Are there any approaches to running a restaurant that you picked up overseas that you apply to your restaurants here in the U.S.? What do the Europeans do better than us? What do they do worse?
FC: Absolutely. It gave us a perspective and insight that has only helped us succeed — by learning from and being able to observe and understand cultures with long-standing traditions. Seasonality, for example. In Asia, I learned that you can cook with just a burner and a wok. It’s a minimalist approach but you produce great food and it was important to really understand that.
 
FF:  Any time you leave the country, you come back with a fresh perspective. Seeing and experiencing another culture is always exciting because things are done differently. The Europeans do some things better and they have a definite established way of running a restaurant, but they also repeat the same things over and over again. There’s more flexibility here, and in the last five years it’s changed drastically to a level of casualness that you’d never ever get before this time. It just wasn’t that cool to be cool, you know? The food had to change and restaurants today are more accessible in terms of value and atmosphere. This change is good because it gives people choices. You can get away with a lot more because you don’t have to operate in a certain mold. Today, it’s more creative and you’re freer to make decisions that you would never make before in a classic situation.
 
What is an average day like for you, if there is such a thing as an average day. Since you have several restaurants, how do you decide which ones to visit? Do you work together, or divide and rule, so to speak?
FC: We’re on a cycle rotation to ensure we stop by each restaurant and Cafe Pedlar several times a week and sometimes daily. With Frank, we do a little bit of both but more dividing lately because of the new restaurant to ensure everything’s running efficiently.
 
Tell me about Frankies 570 Spuntino. How does it differ from your other restaurants, and what is the common thread that unites them all?
FC: It’s center stage. I guess more center stage would be Rockefeller Center, but for us, this is it. Our philosophy and approach unite all of our restaurants.
 
FF: Same parents; different child. What you do with your first child is different from your second child, and with each kid, you learn something new. The common thread: same ownership and we stick to the plan.
 
How has business been going at 570 Spuntino? Does it require a lot of oversight because it is new, or is it sort of flying on its own at this point?
FC: It’s been great but it does require attention and oversight, and Frank and I are in the restaurant every day.
 
FF: Every new baby requires your time, but it’s something you love and you know it will always require focus, attention, and love — and insight and vision.
 
Does 570 represent the sum of all the knowledge and experience you’ve gained from your previous restaurants? Are you introducing any new ideas that you haven’t worked with before?
FC: Yes, it’s all of that. We bring everything from our collective training and experience to this new restaurant, and we wouldn’t do anything differently.
 
FF: Yes; it represents 50 years of experience between Frank and myself. We’re always taking risks but my biggest fear is that I’ll wake up one morning to find that people don’t love meatballs anymore.
 
You’ve got plenty to keep you busy, but what do you have planned for the future? Anything to look forward to during the winter season?
FC: Skiing! Christmas in Germany and winter skiing in the Alps.
 
FF: We’ll be focusing on Prime Meats, our German farm-to-table restaurant. We’re planning some things now for winter. For example, we’re going to break down a whole pig and have some wine and beer dinners.
 
What do you like to do when you have time off? Any hobbies of leisure activities that keep you balanced amid a hectic career?
FC: I’m doing what I love. I also love to be with my family and travel as much as I can.
 
FF: Cooking and entertaining for friends and family; sailing; hiking; metal and wood working; and learning how to fly a plane.
 

Photo: Darren Ankenman