Is Anna Wintour Exiting Vogue?

 

Anna Wintour has not reigned the Condé Nast realm quite as long as another fashion icon, Queen Betty 2, has reigned her realm; but publishing houses are not the same as royal prerogative – and rumors suggest that Wintour’s time may soon be up. After all, having been knighted by the Queen last May (only to become her chaperone at a recent London fashion show), what’s left for the woman who has defined Vogue for the best part of three decades?

It can’t be much fun presiding over the collapsing fortunes of a once mighty publishing house; and Wintour is too savvy to have her legacy tarnished by tectonic shifts within the industry that she simply cannot control.

Sources have told the New York Post‘s Page Six that Edward Enninful, who recently took over as editor of Vogue UK, was the likely heir apparent. That makes sense. Enninful has taken a broom to the UK title, and made it feel fresh and contemporary, and most importantly inclusive, with cover stars like Gugu Mbatha-Raw and a hijab-wearing Halima Aden. With the replacement of Graydon Carter at Vanity Fair by Radhika Jones, it makes sense that Vogue might be in for a similar shakeup.

Considering the death last year of Condé’s patriarch, Si Newhouse, it was clear that the status quo would no longer hold – though Wintour has been proactive as group creative director in consolidating the editorial and business creative staff into one team, and encouraging editors to focus on revenue-generating schemes.

Not surprisingly, Condé Nast has denied that Wintour is departing any time soon; but we’ve all heard that one before.

 

Inside ‘Rick Owens: Furniture’ at MOCA Pacific Design Center

You know him as the overlord of modern gothic fashion. But the much anticipated exhibition Rick Owens: Furniture at West Hollywood’s MOCA Pacific Design Center looks at his creations not meant for the body. The work presented include recent furniture, a new group of large scale sculptures, video and installations – alongside a selection of works by the late artist and musician Steven Parrino, whom the Paris-based American designer admired.

Owens launched his eponymous clothing label in Los Angeles in 1994, and has consistently drawn influence for both his fashion collections and his sculptural furniture from a vast array of art historical sources, which span modernist design, brutalist architecture, monochrome painting, minimal art, and avant-garde dance. His radical and spectacular runway shows function as a form of performance art, and often call into question preconceived and culturally constructed notions of beauty promoted by the very fashion industry in which he works.

But since 2007 Owens has applied a punk and anarchist sensibility to furniture design as well, creating stark and elegant forms out of marble, alabaster, bronze, ox bone, leather and plywood. And in addition to displaying works in Owens’ signature materials, the exhibition showcases the artist’s first foray into foam, rock crystal and concrete.

The show is produced by Michèle Lamy, Owens’ wife, muse “fairy witch” inspiration.

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6 Ways Tetra is the Future of the Smoking Experience

Photography by:  Charlie Shuck

Tetra is a new online retail project and lifestyle brand dedicated to elevating the aesthetics of the smoking experience. Founded by three prestigious design journalists and curators (Monica Khemsurov, Su Wu, and Eviana Hartman) Tetra sets out to offer a collection of commissioned smoking accessories created by some of the design and fashion world’s most influential artists. This includes a brand new collaboration with Opening Ceremony, a fashion set favorite Bellocq, Miwak Junior, Otaat, Leah Ball and Brooklyn darling Helen Levi.

The concept of Tetra was born from the desire to tap into the ritual of pause that smoking provides from our constantly connected lives and look at this moment as an opportunity to infuse great design. According to Tetra’s founders, in the mid-century period, before smoking was considered taboo, design luminaries of the era like Dieter Rams, Marianne Brandt, and Enzo Mari, created iconic home accessories for smokers to enjoy while engaging in company and conversation. Tetra brings this thought to the present day with their curated collection of contemporary pipes, ashtrays, snuff boxes, lighters, storage pouches, and hand selected vintage accouterments.

Here are six pieces from Tetra’s shop that will elevate both your ritual and home aesthetics.

 

1.) Marbled Pipe Pink by Leah Ball. $90.

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2.) The Balance Pipe designed for Tetra by Jamie Wolfond in collaboration with Opening Ceremony. $65.

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3.) Copper Rolling Tray by Matthias Kaiser. $330.

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4.) Andu Box Moss Agate by Anna NY. $310.

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5.) Octahedron Table Lighter and Ashtray Set by Andrew O. Hughes. $1,250.

 

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6.) Voltaire Pipe by The Pursuits of Happiness. $75.00

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Meet the Artist Behind the Color Matching Collages on Miu Miu’s Instagram

If you’ve been following NYFW, chances are you’ve been refreshing your feed every two minutes. There’s one brand that offers more than runway shows and prep shots and that’s Miu Miu. Here you’ll find the fantastical color matching collages created by mixed media artist Beth Hoeckel. Produced exclusively for Miu Miu’s Instagram feed, Beth assembled an assortment of treasures to best suit pieces from their accessory collection in a reimagined way.

For example, seashells, pink frosted birthday cake, toast with jam and a strawberry daiquiri surround a new eco-shearling bag in coral. Additionally, cherries, a floppy disk, a fire extinguisher, and lifesavers come together to float around Miu Miu’s new Automne ’16 backpack for a most playful digital display.

Beth’s work extends passed fashion and moves across many editorial platforms including stories from publishing heavy weights like Conde Nast and Penguin Random House. With a new book in the works and an exhibition this fall, I was curious to learn more about her inspiration and background.

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How did you become interested in mixed media?

I started experimenting with mixed media techniques quite a bit in high school. I went to an arts magnet high school and mainly focused on painting and photography, and wanted to try combining the two. It also partly came from not being able to afford expensive art materials, and subsequently using whatever was around. I was very drawn to collage and mixed media artists like Robert Rauchenberg and Joseph Cornell. In addition to all that I’ve collected old books and photographs since back then and loved using those elements.

Where do you like to pull images from?

It all comes from vintage books and magazines, or any old printed material. My favorite era of National Geographics are from the late 1940’s and early 1950’s, I love old cook books with color photographs and random sewing and craft catalogs.

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What do you love about communicating with collage?

I love the familiarity of the found images in contrast with the surreal nature of the context I place them in. In that way it can be very relatable. In some ways I think it more readily allows viewers to draw from their own memories and experiences to construct a narrative than some other art forms.

Is there a particular thought you are projecting with your work?

There are several themes. Memory, nostalgia, being lost, getting lost, loss in general, bygone eras and their ideals, hope, longing, and daydreams.

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How did living in New York shape your work?

I moved there in 2001 right after graduating from SAIC (Chicago), I was only 21 and it was right after Sept 11 so it was a strange time. It was a struggle to say the least, I had to work a lot of jobs to pay the bills so I barely had time and definitely didn’t have space to make art. I tried to find ways to make money off of my work so I made cards and t-shirts and sold them to shops on Bedford and even sold them by myself on the streets on occasion.

Where do you find your inspiration?

In music from PJ Harvey, Bob Dylan, Patti Smith, Rimbaud, Paul Bowles- to be honest the book The Sheltering Sky has influenced many of my works over the years.

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Discover more work from Beth Hoeckel here.

Fashion Designer KXG Creates Wearable Art in Tropical Bali

Photography by Krishna Godhead
Text by Katherine Aplin

Tucked away in the dense jungle of southern Bali, KXG Artisanal flourishes into being. Heavy air pulses, warm and humid, pushing forward the creative process of partners in life and work, Katharine Grace and Krishna Godhead. Both of them Australian transplants, they met serendipitously in the mountains of Indonesia. Their instantaneous connection shifted their solo lives towards the manifestation of a shared vision and KXG was born.

KXG marries the harsh and the delicate, creating a relationship of symbiosis, each one feeding off the needs of the other. The expert draping of fine chiffons and silks is blended with the use of structured skins, always revered. An air of heightened craftsmanship flows through the garments, every piece becoming an utterly unique work of wearable art. What results is a collection that is supple yet severe and hauntingly beautiful. Emotion-evoking imagery then propels their creations even further as each photograph of Katharine, shot by Krishna, is not only visually stunning but capable of telling story after story.

The mention of Bali elicits thoughts of lush foliage and sun-drenched skies, but KXG oftentimes puts forth a grave aesthetic, using neutrals and B&W photographs. Can you speak to the contrast at play?

The savage nature of a jungle is a constant play of juxtapositions. Ancient, stoic remnants of temples stand silently in the thick and brutish jungle. The heavy heat of a constant summer maintains itself in the dark shadows created by dense vegetation. Throughout this harsh environment arises hand died raw silks, paper-thin exotic skins, and delicate artisanal hand embroidery. The environment is beautiful and barbaric, creating a dialogue that furthers our creations.

How does your creative process unfold?

After dialog reveals our direction of design, the dress form and experimentation is our next step, along with fabrication. Ultimately, the choice of material and method defines all. Whether we are sculpting a whole crocodile skin around a torso or draping, pleating, and pinning sheets of hand-painted organza, we find the process and evolution of the garment of the greatest importance.

Why is the act of ritual important to the ethos of KXG? 

Part of our structure and DNA is to deeply understand that within this world, there is already so much and of such high turnover, with built-in obsolescence. We make a limited number of unique and one off garments as our collections are small and specific.

We try to produce as little as possible in the way of excessive waste and to understand the toil that is imbued in each raw material, whether it be the loss of life in the skins of an animal, the excesses in the process and production of a simple cotton, or the staggering enormity in the yards of woven worm silk. Our ultimate desire is to produce limited pieces that are intensely personal and precious.

If you could dress anyone, who would it be?

Many women from varied disciplines inspire KXG: women who create, fight and inspire. Women of intelligence, desire and individuality and if to be more specific, fellow Australian Cate Blanchett epitomizes the essence of KXG.

Describe KXG in less than 10 words. 

Honor of sacrifice; create through humility

Insta-Critic: Shrimps Puts Faux Fur on Errything

Shrimps loves faux-fur and the label’s whimsical show, which kicked off London Fashion Week today, brought it. Designer Hannah Weiland paired colorful coats with colorful plaid kilts creating looks we could see on the street like, right now. Of course, the devil’s in the details: haunting hand-embroidered faces (somewhat reminiscent of Edward Gorey illustrations) dotted the knits, while many coats featured contrasting collars and cuffs for pops of added color. And, for a final dash of wit, a collaboration with London-based shoe designer Sophia Webster, turned out heels cheekily sporting acid bright fur trims of their very own. It-Brits Alexa Chung and Pixie Geldolf approved.

Fun with faux at @shrimps__ #lfw

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Accessorizing fur with fur at Shrimps

A hand embroidered detail from Shrimps’ new RTW line @shrimps__. #LFW A photo posted by WWD (@wwd) on

Embroidered detail from the Shrimps presentation

A sparkly coat with @shrimps__ fur and a bold red lip – #LFW has landed!

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A sparkly coat with fun fur trim

Pixie Geldolf and Alexa Chung came out to support

Guardians of the Galaxy… This special @sophiawebster for @shrimps__ collab

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Fur-trimmed heels at Shrimps

Insta-Critic: Modern, Minimal 60s at Calvin Klein

Photo: @Calvinklein on Instagram

Perhaps in contrast to Calvin Klein’s high-drama venue today, designer Francisco Costa kept things minimal and modern with light touches of metal. The late ’60s-inspired nods came in the form of round mod buttons, frayed hemlines, and big zippers, paired with ankle boots or those chunky-heeled Mary Janes. On the runway, double-breasted trenches and peacoats done in black velvets and red patent leathers proved big stars. Off the runway, that honor went to Sienna Miller whose front-row presence caused a flashbulb frenzy of its own.

@CalvinKlein posts a sneak peek of the high-drama venue before the show

The parade of shine on the runway

#NYFW #AnnaWintour at backstage of #calvinklein F/W 2015 show in NYC. With – @costafrancisco and #siennamiller .

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Anna, Francisco, and Sienna after the show

Chunky, patent leather heels

#calvinklein #nyfw #fall2015 the #leather by @alliboocakes

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The audience checks out mod, metallic disc detailing on a Calvin Klein dress