Insta-Critic: Bold Florals at Erdem

Photo: @erdemlondon on Instagram

London-label Erdem is known for delicate details that make a bold impression. This morning’s runway achieved just that with a riot of embroidered floral dresses rendered in rich jewel tones. Designer Erdem Moralioglu showed off his eye for artfully mixing sumptuous fabrics with a parade of contrasting brocades, and series of lace dresses with fragile trims. With the playful touch of pockets on the skirts, and high-collared necks, the look was decidedly Victorian–and perfect for your next London garden party.

#Backstage en la pasarela #FW15 de @erdemlondon, presentada hoy durante #LFW. #Repost #Erdem

A photo posted by Harper’s Bazaar en Español (@harpersbazaarmx) on

Jewel-toned florals

#BACK #beauty @tokispirit #Erdem #LFW #FW15

A photo posted by Mo Karadag (@mokaradag1) on

Garden party beauty

The dress parade at Erdem

Elaborate lacework for evening

Trends Out of Pre Fall: The Big Eight from Chanel, Alexander Wang, Belstaff, and More

Only a month and a half out – cue panic – from the new and improved New York fashion week, we can’t help but wonder what designers will bestow upon us this coming season. If the pre fall collections are any indication of what’s to come, we’ll be seeing an inundation of fringe, plenty of pleats and lots of lace. Plaids and floral will be prominent pattern stories, as will the black and white pairings that we saw this past spring. Big volume will remain a big player. And Bermuda shorts will make an impressive comeback.

(Above) Lace Resort

Seen at: Burberry, Jason Wu, Rag & Bone

Dark, dramatic lace could be found all throughout the pre fall collections.  This season’s lace felt romantic, sensual and not in the least bit girly.

BermudaTriangleBermuda Triangle 

Seen at: ALC, Rag & Bone, Thakoon, Band of Outsiders

Reminiscent of a schoolboy uniform from private schools past, Bermuda shorts came back in a more tailored way. Rather than being oversized and slouchy they were grown up – a crisp, formal approach to the menswear trend.

BlackWhiteCompare and Contrast

Seen at: DKNY, Donna Karan, Alice & Olivia, Narciso Rodriguez

The back and white pairings that dominated spring runways came back bolder and even more graphic. The contrasting colors felt distinctly harder, tougher, and seemed to harken back to the 1960s.

CowgirlsIndiansCowgirls and Indians

Seen at: Chanel, Derek Lam, Alexander Wang, Nicole Miller

Cowboy hats, boots, and fringe, oh my. Epitomized by Chanel’s show in Dallas, the cowboy trend was more apparent than ever. Fringe found itself on everything from bags to the backs of dresses and broad rimmed hats and over the knee boots.

InFullBloom In Full Bloom

Seen at: Badgley Mischka, Erdem, Alice & Olivia, Temperley London

A perennial trend, flowers bloomed bold and beautiful this fall. In pastel pink and brooding black, blooms were rendered in a dozen different ways. We loved the graphic interpretations as well as the retro inspired prints.

Plaiditude A Plaiditude

Seen at: Altuzarra, Belstaff, Rachel Comey, Thakoon

Cleaning up the grungy plaids of last fall, this season’s tartans are crisp and classic with a modern twist. Interpreted in new color combinations and shapes the plaid feels reinvigorated and new.

PleatsPleasePleats and Thanks

Seen at: ALC, Gucci, Tory Burch, Missoni

Pleated skirts in delicate swingy fabrics look simultaneously classic and fresh, especially when reinterpreted in silver metallic fabric or paired with sleek, minimal accessories.

sizemattersSize Matters

Seen at: Adam Lippes, Just Cavalli, Derek Lam, Proenza Schouler

Proving more is more. Jackets and pants in particular were given an extra dose of volume. Big, boxy structural shapes reigned supreme.

9 British Designers Style Pudsey Bear for Charity

BBC Children in Need is an annual British charity appeal founded in 1980 by the British Broadcasting Corporation. While we may not be familiar with him in the states, the charity’s long-standing campaign star, Pudsey Bear, is a legitimate icon in the UK, which is why a slew of top British designers gladly participated in this collaboration.

For BBC’s latest online auction, they asked Jonathan Saunders, Henry Holland, Erdem, Mulberry, Katie Hillier, Liberty, Giles Deacon, and PPQ to give their legendary teddy bear a stylish makeover – and the results are brilliant. We particularly love Holland’s punkish take on Pudsey, which features three different colorways of his signature tartan print. Read on for the rest.

pudsey bear 2
Jonathan Saunders, Henry Holland, Erdem

pudsey bear 3
Mulberry, Katie Hillier, Liberty

pudsey bear 4
Giles Deacon, Patrick Grant, PPQ

100% of the final sale price of these bears will support BBC Children in Need. Learn more about the Designer Pudsey Collection and bid here.

#LFW: The Beauty of a Masculine Look

Androgyny through makeup is trending on the London runways, with designers like Tom Ford and Erdem focusing on a strong brow and a handsome face. Steering clear of femininity in the traditional sense of plucking and preening, the look still leaves the models beaming. Clean faces feel fresh, and a strong, natural brow feels young.

In New York, Alexander Wang took it all the way; his models didn’t wear a stitch of makeup. In London, the models at Giles were made to look as though they weren’t wearing any, but the cream blush added a glow to the models that was ‘90s Super reminiscent. At Erdem, the look was heavier handed. Eyeliner and a strong, masculine brow took hold, and a boyish side-part kept it from feeling too done. Next to the collection of black and white, where moto jackets paired with florals, the entire show was conversely hard and soft.

Erdem - @lilallimakeup

 

Tom Ford did his version of androgyny as well. Contoured faces, a strong eyebrow, and windswept hair recalled the natural beauty of Margaux Hemingway.

Tom Ford - @ctilburymakeup

For spring, when there’s the impending sense of vacation and freedom, a simpler routine feels right at home. It helps to know that, as proven here and elsewhere, femininity and beauty doesn’t have to mean curled lashes and pink lips. A groomed brow does wonders for a face. That and a natural glow are all that are needed.

In Defense of Sienna Miller’s Golden Globes Dress

I’ll spare you another Globes style gallery, but I will tell you that Kristin Wiig in Michael Kors, Rosie Huntington-Whitley in Saint Laurent, Nicole Richie in Naeem Khan, Jessica Alba in Oscar de la Renta and Kate Hudson in Alexander McQueen all looked pretty damn fantastic. While most of these ladies received tons of love on various best-dressed lists today, I was annoyed to see that my favorite look from the night is being cyberbullied. Am I completely off my rocker to think that Sienna Miller was absolutely brilliant in Erdem last night? The pastel floral appliqués on this spring 2013 number are cool as hell, and props to Miller for taking a risk. 

Daily Mail said the dress "looks awkward to the average eye." Who wants to be average? HuffPost claimed it "fell flat" because the appliqués were "fluttering in the wind." I happen to enjoy the wind-fluttering, thank you very much. Paired with a near-bare face, swept-back hair and signature Miller statement details like Van Cleef & Arpels earrings on only one side of the ear, the entire look shined and was a breath of fresh air on an otherwise sparkle-dunked red carpet.  

The Girl star revealed to E! that she "really wanted to wear someone British." I love that she veered away from tapping an expected Brit designer for the job and instead went for a fresh talent like Erdem, whose romantic runway shows never cease to enchant during London Fashion Week.

Bra-freakin’-vo, Miss Miller.

sienna miller 2

Spring Trend: Peter Pan Collars

Peter Pan collars were a trend all over the spring 2011 runways. The school girl-inspired neckwear turned up again and again in the season’s ready-to-wear collections, which stepped it up with new ways to wear the conventional collar. Take Isaac Mizrahi‘s whimsical version of the classic button-up with a rhinestone-adorned neckline. The rounded collar look took on sophisticated edge over at Araks, with a Dutch farm girl take on the Pan collar that used contrasting trimmings on semi-sheer chiffon tops and flowing dresses.

Jill Stuart put a fun spin on a classic black collar that contrasted with sleek ivory blouses. While lace proved the perfect way to round off necklines in Erdem‘s collection of seasonal calico-printed sundresses and feminine frocks, adding Victorian touches to both with white lace, doily-like collars.

Most Wanted: Nicholas Kirkwood for Erdem Hiking Boot

All hail Nicholas Kirkwood. For Fall 2010, the mega-talented shoe designer turned out another hit collaboration—this time with Erdem, the exciting London line backed by Erdem Moralioglu. With Kirkwood’s knack for designing out-of-the-box footwear and Erdem’s signature 3D psychedelic prints, it’s no surprise that this meeting of the minds produced a boot that doubles as a work of art.

I love that they stayed true to the classic hiking boot style, with padded ankle support, a ridged rubber sole, and round-toe cap, but added smart touches like antiqued hardware and bright laces. And the silk “flutter” fabric completely seals the deal. I mean, who wouldn’t want to upholster her entire wardrobe in this rad print? Buy the boots here.

Spring’s Most Ladylike Looks

We’re just past the midway point for Spring 2011 collections, and it’s clear designers are going for a more posh and polished look. From New York to London, it’s been all about ladylike looks. That said, the strongest collections have come from designers who are mixing Uptown glamor with a more modern edge.

Lots of designers are relying on lace, as one would expect from such a demure season as this, but it’s looking best on runways when it’s being used unconventionally. At Proenza Schouler, designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez sent down some show-stopping finale dresses in bold, futuristic colors layered atop minimalist undergarments.

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In London, Christopher Kane paid homage to British aristocracy though a psychedelic lens with a collection of neon lace suiting made from perforated leather with a vinyl coating.

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Other Brits, such as Marios Schwab and Erdem, also turned out lace-clad ladies that seemed ready to kick some ass while minding their manners.

imageimage Schwab

image Erdem.

All and all, it’s not your grandma’s cup-of-tea, but most certainly worth the waitlist come spring.