Is it Fall Yet? Our Favorite NYFW Collections We Can’t Wait to Wear

Alexander Wang F/W ’18

 

Is it just us or is fall fashion just so much better than spring? That was definitely the case at the NYFW FW18 shows the past two weeks. And so while most New Yorkers might be pining for spring sunshine throughout this temperamental (but mostly cold) Northeast winter, we find ourselves counting down the days until September finally returns, and we can look cute again.

From Matrix-inspired office wear at Alexander Wang to ’80s power suits at Marc Jacobs and ’00s-era Paris Hilton puppy vibes at Gauntlett Cheng, we’ve compiled here our favorite Fashion Week moments – plus two honorable mentions because, well, we just couldn’t bear to narrow it down.

 

Alexander Wang

 

 

We’ve loved Alexander Wang since he first debuted his part minimalist, part rock ‘n’ roll It-girl uniforms; but we have to say, the last few seasons have left us with a never-ending #WANGOVER. This season, though, the San Fransisco born designer channeled The Matrix-meets-The Office, delivering a range of post-apocalyptic professional wear that we want every piece of – especially, the fur-lined ’90s CK-inspired undies.

 

Marc Jacobs

 

 

Marc Jacobs is basically the Alexander Wang of the late ’90s. So, needless to say, we’re giant fans. But much like last season’s awful #WANGOVER, Marc has fallen off a bit the last few years. I mean, remember the dreadlocks fiasco? Still, it seams Jacobs got the memo (or finally found it again), and this season felt like a return to form. Part ’80s power suit, part goth noir, the Marc Jacobs FW18 collection felt like Bianca Jagger in her white suit days, if she had Grace Jones’ attitude and Siouxsie’s sense of color. What more could you possibly as for?

 

Eckhaus Latta

 

 

One of fashion’s favorite new brands, Eckhaus Latta has mastered minimalism in its purest form. For their FW18 collection, designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta built upon the easy going feel of their last few seasons, but experimented more with shape and color than they ever have before. While the knits and sheer dresses fit right into the Eckhaus Latta playbook, bright yellow flowy fabrics were a new look for the brand. Overall, the collection was bold but understated, yet what Eckhaus Latta does best isn’t actually their clothes. Season after season, and despite its growing popularity, the brand remains dedicated to its outsider ethos. And did we mention their casting always rules? This season saw a diverse runway filled with New York City favorites, including model Paloma Elsesser and indie rock royalty Coco Gordon-Moore.

 

Tom Ford

 

 

Nobody does sleek and sexy like Tom Ford. This season, the designer went all in with leopard print, mixing loud colors with the even louder print in all different sizes from head-to-toe. Not only did each look feel totally timeless, you’ve got to give it to someone who can make lime green or bright red leopard print look not only classy, but cool.

 

Chromat

 

 

Another one of the fashion industry’s favorite young designers, Becca McCharen-Tran built Chromat to empower women of all shapes, sizes and colors. While most brands have embraced a long overdue push for diversity on the runway (not looking at you, Stefano Gabbana), Chromat also delivers it IRL. With a focus on emerging technology and body positivity, the label pushes boundaries and challenges the fashion status quo. For her latest collection, McCharen stuck with oranges and neons, accessorizing each look with Flaming Hot Cheeto bags tied to models’ pants and in their hands. Rapper Slay Rizz finished out the show with a killer performance in an orange two-piece by Chromat, and even though we didn’t get any cheese puffs to go, we were sold.

 

Dion Lee

 

 

Since launching his eponymous label in 2009, Australian designer Dion Lee has consistently delivered classic yet forward-thinking clothing, with his FW18 collection serving as further proof of his talent. Outfitting traditional sportswear looks with architectural bra-tops, it seems Lee also watched The Matrix and The Office before designing his collection. But unlike Wang’s, the Dion Lee range felt modern, not futuristic – the Neo influence was subtle. Lee also brought in more feminine elements, juxtaposing the structured suits and tops with flowy skirts.

 

Gypsy Sport

 

 

Ever since winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2015, Rio Uribe has been making waves with his brand Gypsy Sport. Inspired by New York City, Uribe turned heads last year when he decided to present his Spring collection in Paris. But for FW18, Uribe returned to the city, thank god. Other than that, though, this was an all new Gypsy Sport. Over the last few years, the brand has become recognizable for their upcycled jerseys and I <3 NY logo tees, with the Gypsy Sport name in place of the heart. This season, Uribe ditched the streetwear element, presenting a romantic collection filled with suits and gothic ruffles, as well as a few sustainable aluminum looks. Of course, the designer stuck to his habit of using friends and members of the LGBTQ community as models, including 10-year-old activist and drag star Desmond is Amazing, who stole the show (and probably all of Fashion Week). Known for his willingness to experiment, it’s hard to tell whether this collection was a one-off, or the evolution of the brand. Either way, it doesn’t really matter, because whatever Gypsy Sport does is really, really good.

 

Adam Selman

 

 

Another CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund alum, Adam Selman won Fashion Week in our book. The FW18 collection was kinky, it was campy, it was part John Waters, part new wave, it was punk as fuck. Featuring a collaboration with artist Cheyco Leidmann, who created the surrealist prints Selman used on dresses and shirts, the range was bold and colorful, mixing prints, patterns and styles in an ode to photographer Ypsitylla Von Nazareth. In addition to the outfits, Selman also debuted his latest collection for sunglasses brand Le Specs. If you haven’t already been spotting his metallic cat-eyes for the last few years, get ready – this season’s heart-adorned versions are about to be everywhere. We want ours now.

 

Vaquera

 

 

Most people had never heard of New York City brand Vaquera before last NYFW, when they debuted a dress made only of blue and gold credit cards. For some reason, the look ended up on every news outlet, even though it was one of the weakest of the show. (We’re not saying we didn’t like it – we did.) What Vaquera does best is their more subtle work. This season, the designers seemed to realize that as well, presenting a range of deconstructed pieces that were delicate and cool. The highlights: an oversized blazer dress, cropped suit and crazy snakeskin skirt that all looked like they were slightly unfinished, but in reality, took forever to make. And isn’t that the best stuff anyway? The kind that costs, like, $10,000, but looks like you got it in the back of Duane Reade.

 

Calvin Klein

 

 

Oh, Raf. There’s literally nothing he could do at this point that would make us angry, because every collection he sends down the runway is as close to perfect as it gets. After presenting a men’s collection for his namesake label earlier in the week that revolved around Christiane F. and Cookie Mueller’s Drugs, Simons presented a classic Calvin Klein collection that took all of his quirky eccentricities and somehow made them look, well, classic as fuck. I mean, who else could send swimming caps and sweatshirt-less hoodies down the runway, without looking like he’s trying to be avant-garde? No one. And that’s part of his charm. Unlike a lot of of designers who, when they take over a storied brand, start to lose their individual voice, Raf’s seems to get only louder with each season, and we can’t wait to see what happens next.

 

Jeremy Scott

 

 

We have to be honest when we say that we love Moschino, but have never really caught the Jeremy Scott bug. That is, until this season, where Scott went full-on Fifth Element, with futuristic space-inspired looks. For those of you that don’t know, Jean Paul Gaultier did the costumes for The Fifth Element, and it’s basically a 2-hour fashion orgasm. So, when Scott sent Gigi Hadid down the runway in a silver overall dress, pink crop-top and matching pink LeeLoo-inspired wig – well, we almost stood up to give him immediate applause. The rest of the collection was equally amazing, with all of it feeling retro-futuristic without trying too hard. The key was nothing felt too much like a costume, just the uniform for a school in 2064.

 

Honorable Mentions

Telfar

 

 

This was Telfar Clemons’ second collection since winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, and though it was impeccable, it was the presentation that really kicked ass. Following the runway show that saw Clemons’ solidify his gender neutral ’70s aesthetic, singer/performer Dev Hynes, rapper Ian Isiah, Kelela, Oyinda, 070 Shake and Kelsey Lu took the stage for an intimate performance. The result was emotional yet understated, just like the collection itself.

 

Gauntlett Cheng

 

 

We’re big fans of Esther Gauntlett and Jenny Cheng’s self-aware brand that makes clothes for cool girls all over the world. This season, the duo went Westminster – or maybe Paris Hilton circa 2002. Either way, we were obsessed with the high fashion pieces they presented on models and a group of pups.

 

All photos courtesy of Vogue Runway

Weekend Update, #NYFW Style: Hanging with Peyton List, Travi$ Scott, and Happy Models

Peyton List and BlackBook’s Sara Spruch-Feiner at Nanette Lepore. Via @sarajanenyc on Instagram.

Alyssa: Hey girls!

Emily: Hello!!  What’d you get up to today?

Alyssa: It’s so bad but every time someone asks me that I have to look at my calendar. I’m losing my mind. Hopefully not really. Hold please. Where were you today?

Sara: Today has been insane. Honestly these are the moments I remember why I love fashion. There is a frenetic energy in this industry that is essentially inimitable. The people, their creativity is truly one-of-a-kind. I’m writing to you guys from Queen of the Night at the Paramount Hotel which is insane. We just cleared out table by THROWING dishes across a room. We are here for the new Noble collection by William Rast. It is a huge acrobatics show. The woman next to me is a horse vet and has been here before. She is showing me the ropes. It’s very interactive. We were fed short rib and wine and grapes. It’s an acrobatics show. The seats are upholstered in leopard velvet.

It was also the last day of Linda Honan’s FFF at the Highline hotel.  I dropped by Mary Helen Bowers’ Ballet Beautiful class. So that obviously necessitated a trip back to the Zappos braid bar and this time I got pics! #obsessed

Emily: Cute! I was at Alejandro Ingelmo’s presentation at Robert Miller gallery–the shoes were beautiful and it was awesome having the event at a gallery.

Alyssa: Ooh, a little art and fashion. Who was showing?

Emily: Peter Sacks. The shoes were so polished and it was cool to have them set against the backdrop of rough, texturized, modern art.

unnamed

Alyssa: So cool. I started out with DKNY, which I love loved. Coolest shoes, kind of platform sneakers… great clothes that were sporty and street but chic. Styling was great. Totally a celebration of New York and real New Yorkers. Basically I want it all.

And then I spent some time with the dudes today… Mark McNairy then the men’s presentations at Milk. Mark McNairy was so fun. Everyone (models included) had a beer in hand, and Travi$ Scott opened and closed the show. Kid is energetic. There was also a shirt that read: M*A*S*H Potatoes — I mean… Fun vibes at McNasty.

Sara: That’s funny — I raced to William Rast from the tents where I saw Nanette Lepore. I was there with actress Peyton List who is just the best. (More on her later). She sat with the cast of Orange is the New Black in the front row. And then with Carmen Electra in the MBFW lounge.

Nanette’s final model was her daughter, Violet, who drew huge cheers from the crowd. The finale was a spectacular dance party/conga line led by Nanette and Violet. The models looked like they were having so much fun!!

Alyssa: Love a good model dance party. Everyone was having fun today, including the boys at Pyer Moss, who paused mid-presentation for the all important #selfie. Usher was there… if only we’d gotten him to dance, too.

Sara: I did not have my dancing shoes on today. My feet are killing me–I put on 6 inch heels to hang out with Peyton who still towered over me 🙂

We had so much fun! She wore a blue suit by Nanette Lepore and looked unbelievable.

Emily: I feel you on the foot pain (glamorous), I’ve sworn off them for the remainder of fashion week.  Pretty sure the only people wearing heels have drivers.  That or flip flops in their purse.

Alyssa: Today at Eckhaus Latta I saw a girl carrying Timbs in clear plastic bag, the kind I use to organize stuff in my styling kit. Not so chic… but practical? Ooh and our girl Hari Nef was there, modeling in the show. Hari was in Hood By Air before that, too. BlackBook on the runway, bbs!

(P.S. you can follow us through #NYFW on Instagram at @alyssashapiro@sarajanenyc. And of course, @blackbookmag.)