Last night at Guastavino’s under the 59th Street bridge, gourmet meat slingers D’Artagnan celebrated 25 years of systematically slaughtering animals, with a massive bath of flesh—cooked and alive. The French were everywhere, dressed in the company’s signature red and white, and less drunk off small glasses of actual red wine than the red wine sauce those chicken legs were braised in. The highlight of the night was mega restaurateur Drew Nieporent (Corton, Nobu, Tribeca Grill) joining Top Chef host Tom Colicchio (who just shredded “Takin’ Care of Business”) on stage for an insane cover of Plastic Bertrand’s “Ca Plane Pour Moi.” We say insane because we never thought Nieporent was capable of hitting those high notes, and because the elderly gentleman in front of us was clearly high on ecstasy. Video after the jump.
Chris Cheung, executive chef of East Village resto/lounge China 1, was raised in Chinatown and describes himself as “fixated on Northern Chinese cuisine with an American sensibility.” He’s worked in the kitchens of celebrated chefs such as Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Wylie Dufresne, Daniel Angerer, and Jehangir Mehta.
Describe your gig at China 1. I come up with the menu, manage the kitchen, make good food, keep the costs down and quality up, keep the space clean, manage people well — not just in my own department but in every facet of the restaurant — and create the profile for China 1.
How’d you get your start? I worked in a couple of restaurants here and there before I went to the Culinary School in New York. I wound up doing an internship at Vong, and it opened up a world of things for me. Jean-Georges and Nobu had a lot to do with changing my life. I worked at Judson Grill until the owner had problems, and he referred me to Nobu in Tribeca. When I got there, I found it was run like nothing I’d ever seen, and for a young line cook, it was great to share in the success of the restaurant and be able to create new and innovative things for our guests.
Where do you go out? I always go back to where I grew up: Chinatown. Hop Kee on Mott Street is nothing fancy, but it’s old style Cantonese. I like steak, so Peter Luger’s is the old-school paradigm. I haven’t been to the new Daniel because it’s not an everyday affordable place, but if you want great food, Daniel Boulud knows how to do it.
Who do you look up to? Drew Nieporent is one of those guys who can light up a room, always remembers who you are, always instills a good feeling when you meet him. He’s one of the best. Believe it or not, I seriously respect Steve Hansen. The business model he has worked for many, many years is great. Having worked for him, I know how to reduce costs and run a restaurant through systems that work.
What are your expectations for the hospitality industry now? Obviously, nobody can tell the future, but I have a hope it will get better than it is now. I’ve grown up in a lot of fine dining kitchens, and I definitely think that the trend is towards the more casual, further from formal dining. At least in New York. Becoming a little casual can be more healthy.
Anything you dislike about your industry these days? People in the spotlight who know they have the power to put a restaurant on the map with lots of media coverage sometimes take it too far. One mistake or even a misunderstanding can lead to taking it over the top with a bad review, and the next thing you know you have five bad reviews in five publications with the restaurateur not being able to have his side of the story explained in the same space. On the other hand, there are lots of people into great food who support restaurants, so you have to take the good with the bad.
Something that no one knows about you? It’s about exposure. New York seems to be a big town, but as far as talented chefs go there are a lot of us out there. When you’re below the level of notoriety like Jean-Georges, you really, really fight for recognition. There’s so much competition that you can get a little bit lost, so you have to stay on course.
Guiltiest pleasure? Baseball. The Yankees. You try to catch the games with time constraints, and I’ve done it since I was a kid.
Any non-industry projects in the works? Everything I do has to do with the career, food, the restaurant.
Jeffrey Chodorow, owner of China Grill, Asia de Cuba, Kobe Club, Ono, and other esteemed global eateries, dishes on Schrager, disses on DiSpirito, then row-row-rows his colorful boat ashore. Point of Origin: I was born in the Bronx, but my father died the year I was born, so my mother and I moved to Miami. I grew up in Miami Beach, where we lived with her sister. They were both manicurists in a Cuban barbershop, and they used to go to Havana for the weekend — which, incidentally, is how Asia de Cuba eventually came to be. I opened China Grill because I knew the Asian and Cuban pantry, so it seemed like a natural. I grew up very poor in a very wealthy Miami area where we went through school drills, hiding under our desks during the Cuban missile crisis. Some friends built a bomb shelter in their property which was nicer than our apartment! This was before Castro came in.
Occupations: With my very logical legal background, I got seduced by the restaurant business in Los Angeles. I was supposed to buy a football team, and I met this guy at Spago. The next day, I was having a meeting with the bank that had the stadium in Foxboro, and we stopped at Chinois on Main in Santa Monica. Next thing I knew, I was back in New York, opening China Grill. The guy who had the lease where I wanted the restaurant at 20th and 6th reneged, and another friend who was a broker had a space available immediately under the CBS building at 6th and 52nd. I hated it. It was shaped like a dumbbell, a big barn with a narrow corridor, but the architect said we could make it work. I made two decisions that, in hindsight, were the major factors in the success of China Grill: I moved the entrance from 52nd to 53rd, across from MoMA and the Hilton. At that time, all the customers came from the Upper East Side for the nighttime business. All my friends in the restaurant business said “Four restaurant have failed there,” and I was obligated to be open for lunch. I figured the way to get people in there for dinner was to exempt the first six months from lunch, so when it opened, it only opened for dinner. All the people at CBS complained! I needed to force people to come for dinner, and eventually opened for lunch.
Everybody in the industry speculates that you and Ian Schraeger met in jail. Yes? No? This whole episode is a weird story-in-a-story. By 1987, Ian Schraeger and Steve Rubell were already out of the Morgans Hotel and into the Royalton; their financiers were doing a building up on 6th Avenue. They were supposed to do the restaurant with Brian McNally, but they couldn’t get a liquor license (Brian didn’t have any money at the time), so they wanted to meet me. They came and asked if I’d like to do 44 in the Royalton for them. I met Steve first. We share a passion for Twizzlers licorice, and there was a jar in his office. Then I met Ian. They both told me the story of how the Royalton was going to be the next generation of a social gathering. The whole thing sort of seduced me into the mix. It was like oil and water, but they put up all of the money for everything but the liquor license. I don’t know why this was, but Ian said, “We’ll put up all the money for the hotel, and you put up all of the money to open the restaurant (payroll, graphics, etc).” There was a hitch. They wanted me to buy a Phillipe Starck hostess stand, a kind of Winged Victory of burled walnut that was tapered from the top down. It cost $30,000. Ian said, “Look, Jeff, if you want to do the deal, you’ve got to buy the stand.” It was impractical, there was no top, there was no drawer space, there was no place for the phone — I had to put Velcro on it — but it was a gorgeous piece of furniture. I put the stand next to the hotel column, so when you enter the hotel, you look down the blue carpet and see this beautiful piece of furniture.
China Grill in Manhattan was on fire, too and before long, Ian called me, “Nobody said the idea wouldn’t travel; how about you do the space in Morgans Hotel? I know it’s a bad location, but I’ll give you a fabulous deal.” I only made one condition after the Royalton: I wasn’t enjoying it because I felt pigeonholed to do a hotel restaurant. I called Ian and told him that I wanted to do a restaurant in a hotel, not a hotel restaurant. The deal was done. Jefferson Carey was my first chef of Asia de Cuba, and I felt the menu had to be a certain type. At the time there was no fusion, so it was revolutionary in those days. But I thought if I could create demand from outside the hotel, it would work. I was set on Chino Latino restaurants. He was amazed. He had just gotten engaged, and his fiancé was Cuban. Later, the New York Times said the newest thing was a Nuevo Latino restaurant — mine. Meanwhile, Brian had opened in Ian’s Delano in Miami, and it was doing good business, but doing no money. So Ian asked me to take it over in 1996. It became Asia de Cuba.
Any non-industry projects in the works? I would say, I’m interested mostly in food related things, my other big interest is IICA contemporary art at [alma mater] Penn, and I have donated a reasonable amount of money to the school. My son was also at Penn and is interested in contemporary art, plus I thought it was an opportunity to do something. Also, there are a lot of creative people out there … great cooks who aren’t chefs. Ask Rocco [DiSpirito], one of the contestants on Dancing with the Stars!
Favorite Hangs: My favorite hangouts are not all in New York. I love some of the Cuban places in Miami like Yakosan, a place in North Miami Beach, a Japanese tapas bar with all small plates. I like quirky things. They also have spaghetti bolognese; all of the sushi chefs hang out there. I like Versailles; Ciochi, the place on Sixth and Collins, a Cuban hole-in-the-wall for the Cuban sandwiches and black bean soup, and the Latin American Cafe. In New York, the Cuban hangouts like Park Blue with its list of half-bottles of wine and phenomenal drinks; Sakagura on 43rd between 2nd and 3rd, on the north side of the street, in a white office building … on the floor there’s a little sign for Sakagura. You walk past the front desk to the fire exit and down the stairs to the wooden door that leads to the sake bar. No sushi, just small plates of Japanese food, across from Sushi Yasuda. In the basement, it’s all surprise. I like the old style places. I love Dan Tana’s in LA. I love Nanni’s on 46th. Old time places … they’re not trying to do anything modern. There are certain dishes on the menu where the food is great. They’re hangouts I gravitate to — the old stuff. I try all the new stuff.
Industry Icons: I think the reason my relationship with Ian works so well is that we had so much mutual respect for each other. He gave me the ability to think beyond what I knew. I realized when I got back together with him that if you looked at it objectively, it would make no sense, but he was so successful that you couldn’t pick it apart as to what made it so successful. When I opened Asia de Cuba in Morgans Hotel, he wanted to send out a postcard. So I get the mock-up, and the front is like a beautiful photo of Morgans with three doors, a great postcard. The estimated price was $80,000 — and it was 1997! I almost fell off my chair. That was why our relationship worked: It may not have made sense to me, but if he felt passionate, I respected his vision and he respected my business acumen. Ian Schrager and Drew Nieporent, we’re all battling the same battles. I have tremendous respect for them, and I don’t view it as competition. I feel that we’re just up against the same thing.
Who are some people you’re likely to be seen with? I think I’m kind of a private person. I’d rather spend time with my family than anybody. Of course, we socialize, but there’s nobody in particular that I spend an inordinate amount of time with.
Projections: Right now, I’m very focused on international, and I want to do India and China. I just got back from Monte Carlo. It’s such an international place, and you wouldn’t know there was a global community there.
What are you doing tonight? Last night, I took my wife to Georgica Pond for three hours with lobster. I was on the phone the entire day and I was actually impressed that I could row that far! But I was an Eagle Scout and had a canoeing badge. Tonight, I’m having dinner with my eldest son who graduated from Wharton last year, and is going to law school. I’ve offered him a job! We opened the Kobe Beach Club in the Hamptons next to the Lily Pond, and he decided to open Kobe Hot Dogs! When I was doing Ono, he was closely watching! He went out and got the equipment, brought the chef and the relishes and these special iced teas and a papaya drinks … he’s a bright kid. I have a 19-year-old who wants to be a sushi chef. He’s at his first year at Boston University. A few years ago he wanted an apprenticeship in Tokyo in a sushi restaurant in the Chanel building. So being a foodie has really paid off for the whole family.