Runway Rundown: All The Best From Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear, Resort and Fall ’18 Couture

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Valentino Fall ’18 Couture

 

A lot has happened on the runway over the last few weeks. There was Paris Couture Week; before that, some designers showed their Spring ’19 collections; and in between all of those, there was Resort (which we don’t usually care for, but this season had one great moment). So, we don’t blame you if you’ve missed some things. And because we love you, we’re going to be your fashion fairy godmothers, and round up everything you need to see if you haven’t already (and if you have, all of the amazing things you should look at again). Below, our favorite runway moments — or, as we like to call them, the only ones worth mentioning.

 

Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear:

Spring can be really boring. I mean, florals, for Spring? Groundbreaking. No, but seriously, it can really hard to re-invent the wheel when that wheel is a limited range of flowing skirts, mini dresses and caftans. That’s why our favorite brands threw out seasonal rules altogether and did things like patent leather and hoodies.

 

Alyx

 

For Matthew Williamson’s first ever runway show for his four-year-old brand Alyx (or, as its named now, 1017 Alyx 9SM for Williamson’s birthday and the location of his first studio at 9 Saint Marks), the designer went all out. Instead of debuting a ton of cliche Spring pieces, like bathing suits and floral dresses, the collection looked almost as if it could’ve been for Fall. With a post-apocalyptic vibe perfect for our current political climate, Willliamson’s pieces looked like a uniform for, albeit incredibly fashionable, anti-fascist soldiers. Sign me up.

 

Vetements

 

VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019 – WATCH THE OFFICIAL VIDEO – LINK IN THE PROFILE

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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For fashion world darling Demna Gvasalia’s turn on the runway, the designer paid homage to his home country, Georgia. Gvasalia casted the show with all Georgian teenagers, and took the opportunity to teach fashion insiders about the current political turmoil happening in the region. In fact, each piece from the collection comes with a giant bar code, that once scanned with your iPhone, will open an app that features facts about the country. And as much as I want to hate Vetements, I wish I could afford to pay $1,000 for a sweatshirt.

 

Kenzo

 

Prints, prints, prints. #KENZOSS19

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Kenzo S/S ’19 was all about prints. Gingham, checks, polka-dots, snakeskin — you name it, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon designed it, and styled it together. The whole maximalist, should-be-clashing-but-instead-looks amazing thing has always been Kenzo’s vibe, but each season Lim and Leon seem to do it better and better. After last year’s Spring collection, I really thought the brand had reached their peak, but this season even makes me want to wear color.

 


 

Resort:

Honestly, I shouldn’t have even included Resort on this list, since it’s really not a list – it’s just Miu Miu.

 

Miu Miu

 

If Miu Miu’s Resort ’19 collection was bad, it truly wouldn’t have even mattered. With a casting like the one they had at The Regina Hotel in Paris last week, including Rowan Blanchard, Kaia Gerber, Uma Thurman, Chloe Sevigny and Naomi Campbell, no one would have even noticed the clothes. But we did, because the collection was perfect. Kind of preppy, but with a race car driver-meets-Valley of the Dolls-meets-Maui sort of look, the Miu Miu collection was what Miuccia Prada still does best, even after all these years: it was fun, it was free, and somehow, between all the clashing prints and furry heels, it was still subtle.

 


 

Fall ’18 Couture:

Couture is all about fantasy; it’s about staring at beautiful clothes you desperately want but have absolutely nowhere to wear them to. When it came to this year’s Couture Week, our favorite designers didn’t let us down, delivering some of the dreamiest collections we’ve ever seen grace the runway. I mean, Kaia Gerber at Valentino. Enough said. But don’t worry, we’ll say more anyway.

 

Chanel

 

For his Fall ’18 Chanel couture show, Karl Lagerfeld paid homage to Paris. Honestly, everything the guy does is good, and the fact that he’s still able to send tweed two-pieces down the runway, and make them look good — well, that alone, proves he’s a genius. In addition to his love of Paris, the designer built this collection around what he calls the “high profile” — long skirts that unzip to show thigh-bearing minis underneath. “You can wear it zipped down when you visit your banker, no?” he told Vogue. “And zipped up when you see your lover after!”

 

Valentino

 

At this point, there’s no way you haven’t seen at least one photo from the Valentino couture show. Images of Kaia Gerber in her amazing beehive have literally been flooding the internet. But for once, the talk is true and all the hype is worth it. The Valentino collection was the MVP of Couture Week — and maybe all of 2018. Obviously, Pat McGrath and Guido Palau killed it with the beauty; but the collection itself was completely breathtaking. I mean, the models looked like actual angels floating down the runway in their billowy gowns and floral headdresses.

 

Fendi

 

 

Fendi always knows what they’re doing. For their couture collection, the brand took a step back from the logomania that’s taken over their last few seasons, and created a ’60s-inspired ode to fur. While a lot of the industry has vowed to go fur free, Lagerfeld has doubled down with Fendi. Though the collection included bits of actual fur, it was more about the ways in which he treated other fabrics that created a sort of gaudy (but in a good way), glam feel that I totally could’ve imaged Liz Taylor or Anne Welles in.

 

Margiela

 

Discover highlights from our Autumn-Winter 2018 ‘Artisanal’ Collection designed by @jgalliano: The nomadic idea of taking life on the road is conveyed in abundant layering where garments interweave and mutate. #maisonmargiela #artisanal #artisanalartistry – Music: “Unchained Melody” Written By: Alex North & Hy Zaret Courtesy Unchained Melody Publishing LLC – Black Saturn, Nicholas Hill, Luciano Ugo Rossi, Glenn Herweijer; Ben Sumner. KPM Music When The Clock Stops, Nikky French. KPM Music Breakacuda,Benjamin Medcalf. Anger Music Circus Caravan MYMA. Justement Music Flight Remembered, Nicholas Hill, Glen Herweijer, Ben Sumner. KPM Music The Arrival, David James Caton, Harry Valentine. Anger Music Etude in e major, Frederic Chopin, Tolga Kashif, KPM Music Warhammer, Darren Mudge. Anger Music Arrangement : Jeremy Healy

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Galliano went all Fifth Element for his latest Margiela Artisanal collection (he’s too cool for couture, natch). Using VR headsets and iPhones as accessories, the designer sent a retro-futuristic, technology-obsessed collection down the runway. And hey, since people are already attached to their phones, physically adhering them to our outfits seems like a natural next step. That, or we’re going to war with aliens and Galliano is designing the outfits.

 

Viktor and Rolf

 

To celebrate their 25 years together, Viktor & Rolf decided to take 25 of the brand’s most iconic looks, and update them for their Fall ’18 couture collection. That update meant turning everything white and covering them in Swarovski crystals. Though I’ve always been a fan of Viktor & Rolf, there’s literally nothing more perfect than the bed dresses they originally created for their Fall ’05 collection — or, at least, I thought, until I saw this season’s iteration, complete with white bedazzled pillows and a down evening dress. Sigh. This is what dreams are made of.

 

Photos & Video: Instagram

Get Inspired for NYFW with the 5 Best Couture Week Street Style Trends

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All photos: Julien Boudet/BFAnyc.com

In Paris, it’s currently 45 degrees and couture city. We might be bundled up today in NYC, but with some inspiration from one of our other favorite cities we can get a head start on prepping for the fast-approaching NYFW.

1. TECHNICOLOR PRINTS
PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY ONE

 

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY ONE

 

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY ONE

 

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY TWO

 

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY TWO

 

2. FULL-SKIRTED COATSPARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY ONE

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY ONE

 

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY ONE

 

3. MINI STATEMENT BAGSPARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY ONE

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY ONE

 

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY ONE

 

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY TWO

 

4. BLACK SHEARLING/FURPARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY ONE

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY ONE

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY ONE

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY ONE

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY ONE

5. EMBROIDERY + EMBELLISHMENT
PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY TWO

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY TWO

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY TWO

PARIS FASHION WEEK #PFW Street Style Haute Couture S/S 2015 - DAY TWO

7 Couture Moments from Instagram for Your Daily Dose of Fabulous

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Catherine Baba on the street at Paris Couture. Photo: Julien Boudet/BFAnyc.com

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Kris Jenner decides real pants are a no-go. But so much do we love the strategically placed clutch. Also: Ruthie Friedlander’s apt description of Jenner as a “lovely cockatoo” on the below Instagram she posted.

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@ruthiefrieds on Instagram

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The bride wore a space blanket — backstage at Chanel, anyway.

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@michelgaubert on Instagram

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More metallic for the bride, this time deliberately and on the runway. Schiaparelli couture is shaking up bridal with gold lamé and — we like this — an afro.

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@malinajoseph on Instagram

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Only in our fantasies and on Karl Lagerfeld‘s Chanel couture runway is Baptiste Giabaconi the gardener.

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@jshi809 on Instagram

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This triple super model moment — Karlie Kloss, Amber Valletta, and Eva Herzigova backstage at Versace haute couture with Pat McGrath. Stunners.

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@karliekloss on Instagram

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Christian Dior‘s image director for makeup Peter Philips grabs this ‘gram of a ‘gram featuring Kinga Rajzak backstage before the show.

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@peterphilipsmakeup on Instagram

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More than mildly obsessed with the hair at Dior by Guido Palau.

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@guidopalau on Instagram

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John Galliano Debuts a Wild Couture Collection for Maison Margiela

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Maison Margiela Spring 2015 Couture illustrated by Joseph Larkowsky

When Anna Wintour first stepped out at the British Fashion Awards in December in the first gown John Galliano designed under his new appointment as creative director of Margiela, the fashion world wrinkled their collective nose and shrugged their shoulders a little. I mean, yes, very pleasant. Lovely black floor length number with swirling floral detail, an almost mimic of a Galliano dress Wintour has worn previously from his Fall 1995 collection under his eponymous label. But for a world preview of what is to come, it was, by any standards, a tad mundane.

Cut to Monday afternoon in London. With tension building, and after the shocking news that Galliano would be showing there instead of the traditional French capital during the official Couture season in a few weeks, the fashion elite gathered for what turned out to be a complete barrage of ideas, intrigue, illusion, and amazing craziness.

Galliano was known during his previous employment for his extravagance, glamour, beauty, and eye for creating red carpet ready ball gowns for any Hollywood A-Lister. Margiela however, is not known for its Hollywood affiliation, but its constant play on the essence of fashion, fabric manipulation, frivolity, and raw ideas.

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It seems Galliano took advantage of this and really experimented with basically anything the designer and team could find. This was plainly explained by the first look, a beige paneled waistcoat outlined with sprayed black toy cars, racing around the neckline, pockets, and hem. Models wore two tone tights, with matching shoes sporting sculpted heels.

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Red made a prominent appearance, in skirts teamed with tiger skin jackets, a column halter dress and a 3D embroidered frock-coat and ball gown, the former covered in sprayed cabochons and seashells depicting a tribal Schiaparelli-esque face, the latter strewn with a golden bullion bib, and an eclectic mix of…stuff teamed with a golden scull mask, reminiscent of the Roman Catacomb Saints.

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Galliano’s trademarks raised their iconic heads. His affiliation and constant reinvention of the 1920/’30s saw the light in a scalloped fringe and loose, cropped opera coats, as well as the golden glittering hair caps, as well as bias cut skirts and sheer tulle appliqué gowns. He also touched on some of the ideas the House of Margiela had done previously; stonewash and black denim hot pants made an appearance, as well as a selection of masculine black suits, some double breasted, some encased in a tufty shrug of black hair.

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This collection is still in its early stages; it’s been a while since we have seen such passion and interest in design, and especially couture. It is a grower, and it does require a closer look for anyone who may be skeptical. The details, the ideas, and the execution are all phenomenal, as blatant or as quietly concealed as they may be. It will definitely be a collection to remember.

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As for where to go from here, I’m really not sure. Galliano quickly becomes a master wherever he is. He harbors the passion and talent to apply it to any scenario, blatantly seen during his one season stint at Oscar de la Renta. His aesthetic and own personal style and taste will always follow him, and it will always be something his avid followers want to see. Whether the appointment at Margiela will be a long term fix, we don’t know, but as an initial mark-making exercise on the current consumer driven face of fashion, it was indeed more one made with a spray-can instead of a fine-tipped pen.

Collection images courtesy of Maison Margiela

Watch the Valentino Haute Couture Show, in NYC for the Very First Time

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Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

The fashion masses trudged uptown in the snow for last night’s Valentino Couture show, put on at the now empty Whitney Museum. Guests like Sofia Coppola, Emma Roberts, Katie Holmes, Karolina Kurkova, and more sat front row — Kurkova attended on the arm of Valentino Garavani himself.

The show celebrates the opening of Valentino on 5th Avenue.

Watch a stream here.

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Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

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Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

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Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

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Photo: Neil Rasmus/BFAnyc.com

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Photo: Neil Rasmus/BFAnyc.com

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Photo: Neil Rasmus/BFAnyc.com

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Karolina Kurkova and Valentino Garavani. Photo: Neil Rasmus/BFAnyc.com

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Ivanka Trump. Photo: Neil Rasmus/BFAnyc.com

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Katie Holmes. Photo: Neil Rasmus/BFAnyc.com

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Calvin Klein, Anna Wintour, and Olivia Munn. Photo: Neil Rasmus/BFAnyc.coBFA_11067_1347841
Sofia Coppola. Photo: Neil Rasmus/BFAnyc.com

BFA_11067_1347864Emma Roberts and Prabal Gurung. Photo: Neil Rasmus/BFAnyc.com

Pregnant: The Most Modern Bride at Chanel Couture

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Karl Lagerfeld and seven months pregnant model Ashleigh Good at the Chanel fall 2014 couture show in Paris. Photo via Instagram.

It should be no surprise that lots of people have sex before marriage (although you might shock some of the ladies who Karl catered to at the Paris-Dallas Métiers d’Art 2013/2014 show in December). Karl Lagerfeld made his feelings on pre-marital pregnancy quite clear at the Chanel couture show in Paris today. Model Ashleigh Good, actually seven months pregnant, looked stunning in Karl’s modern Baroque wedding dress, set as always at the glorious Grand Palais.

Shotgun brides take note. This is how you do it.

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Via Gabrielle Hackworthy on Twitter

Visual Xanax: Untie Me

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Let’s get ready to undo the week…

Photo: Freja Beha Erichsen photographed by Javier Vallhonrat for Vogue UK, May 2006

Need another hit? Click here.

STYLE SCOOP: Vionnet + Chalayan, The Gap, Leaving Lincoln Center

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Everybody’s ditching Lincoln Center. Could Spring Studios be the new venue? Considering DVF and Michael Kors have supposedly hopped on board, and the space has housed a few fashion events previously, including Calvin Klein’s 10 year anniversary show.

The Gap has a new creative director: designer Rebekka Bay.

The Cambodian factories are as dangerous as ever. In retaliation to a workers’ strike, Cambodian forces opened fire.

Hussein Chalayan has been tapped as Vionnet’s new demi-couture designer. We’ll see his moves on January 21 during couture week in Paris.

Image: Vionnet

Unique Creatures: Nan Kempner, a Couture Collector and Supremely Stylish Badass

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Nan’s love of fashion was borne in her blood, her mother and grandmother famously clotheshorses themselves. At 19, Nan purchased her first piece of couture, a Christian Dior white silk sheath with mink trim that she cried over to get the price down. At the time Yves Saint Laurent was the head designer there, and his curiosity over her need for the dress caused him to seek her out. Thus begins one of the largest couture collections in existence.

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