Suzy Menkes will leave the New York Times to join Condé Nast International at all of the international Vogue websites. Big moves, and big losses for the NYT this year — Suzy Menkes now, Cathy Horyn just before fashion week, and Eric Wilson who decamped to InStyle.
Jennifer Lawrence fell in Dior. Again. At the Oscars. Again. Girlfriend is the clumsiest couture wearing chick we’ve ever heard of, and we kind of love it. Watch a GIF here.
A little nepotism in Paris — Yeezy’s soon to be sister-in-law Kendall Jenner walked in the Givenchy show Sunday. ‘Ye and fiancée Kim Kardashian are buddy buddy with designer Riccardo Tisci.
David Lynch’s set design for Kenzo included this creepy, hallow-eyed, grey head. So.
Catch up on the latest happenings in fashion and style:
Giambattista Valli is set to open its first store in Milan, to be unveiled during the city’s February fashion week.
Designer Francesco Russo heads to Christian Dior as the house’s new women’s footwear designer.
Ralph Lauren International’s (previous) president has tapped out. Daniel Lalonde had submitted his resignation in September.
Capsule Market Square is happening – this will be the tradeshow’s first open-to-the-consumer event. It’ll be open on December 14-15 at 82 Mercer Street, featuring goods from Creatures of Comfort, Want les Essentiels de la Vie, Mark McNairy, Nudie Jeans, Billy Reid, Maison Kitsuné, and others.
Condé Nast is getting into e-commerce, setting up a new online retail division within the company.
Marc Jacobs admitted to being nervous about leaving Louis Vuitton behind.
A 22-year-old fashion-obsessed Ohio student is in hot water after hacking into Conde Nast’s computer system and stealing over one thousand images. Ross Ulrich has recently confessed and has agreed to pay the publisher $12,500 to settle a copyright lawsuit, The Smoking Gun reports. When asked about his motivation for accessing the Conde Nast system, Ulrich claimed that it was simply to obtain images that he could be the first to post online. He added that many bloggers and fan sites compete to publish images from paparazzi agencies and fashion photo shoots. The higher res the better, Ulrich noted.
Ulrich leaked the December 2009 cover of W, featuring Demi Moore, on The Fashion Spot, and later posted nearly the entirety of GQ‘s December 2009 issue on his own blog, FashionZag. Ulrich also accessed Warner Bros. internal server, though the film company has decided not to further pursue a federal lawsuit filed last year, according to Ulrich.
Carine Roitfeld, the infamous and influential editor of French Vogue, has announced her resignation from the magazine after 10 years at the helm, in order to focus on personal projects. Under Roitfeld’s tenure, French Vogue has became one of the most progressive and creative fashion publications in the world and has set a standard for excellence in fashion editorial. “It’s 10 years that I’m editor of the magazine, I think it’s time to do something different,” Roitfeld told Cathy Horyn at the New York Times. “When everything is good, maybe I think it’s the time to do something else.”
Jonathan Newhouse, CEO of Condé Nast International, told Vogue UK: “It is impossible to overstate Carine’s powerful contribution to Vogue and to the fields of fashion and magazine publishing. Under her direction, Vogue Paris received record levels of circulation and advertising and editorial success. Carine herself has become widely known as a beacon of style, fulfilling the role with charm and graciousness. She has become a giant in her profession [and] will be deeply missed. I am extremely grateful to her for what she has achieved.”
Emmanuelle Alt (pictured above with Roitfeld and Karl Lagerfeld), French Vogue’s equally revered fashion director, is the likely pick to continue Roitfeld’s legacy. But we have to wonder what Anna Wintour thinks of all of this.
Blame it on print’s slow and inevitable death: Conde Nast is looking to
survive breath new life into its titles by launching restaurants in their honor. “Moscow is already home to the Vogue cafe, the GQ bar, and the Tatler club,” says NPR. Now it’s Asia’s turn. “The company is establishing a new division, called Condé Nast Restaurants, that will be based in Hong Kong and run by Stuart Nielsen, a regional director of food and beverages for Intercontinental Hotels Group,” explains the Wall Street Journal of the endeavor.
“The company initially is targeting places like Dubai and Hong Kong and early efforts will focus on licensing Vogue and GQ, which have 17 and 15 international editions, respectively,” says the WSJ, adding that one or two restaurants are likely to open by 2011 with as many as five each year to follow. “We’re convinced doing restaurants in the right way will strengthen the power of our brands [elsewhere],” Conde Nast’s Chairman, Jonathan Newhouse, told the paper. While such a licensing agreement might help the monolithic publisher make a quick chunk of change, perhaps their time and effort might be better spent adapting magazines to the digital space—and continuing to put out print products that speak for themselves—instead of diluting their already fragile brand identities.
Photo of Vogue Cafe Moscow
The future of magazines is on everyone’s mind these days, from the Chairman of Conde Nast to fashion blogs. Style.com ran a four-part series featuring commentary on the subject from such heavyweights as Hedi Slimane and Olivier Zahmn, and blog Business of Fashion has been adding to conversations pulled from the Financial Times‘s Business of Luxury Summit, hosted in Los Angeles. In its latest installation, BoF highlights points made by Jonathan Newhouse, Chairman of Conde Nast, during a speech at the luxury conference. Newhouse offered musings on new media versus old, and the future of the publishing and fashion industries.
He talked about how GQ “was the first magazine to place its entire printed product on a mobile device and to charge a price. It is selling 20 thousand copies without any promotional support.” Still, compared with the average print circulation of a major national magazine, there’s no doubt GQ’s digital sales leave something to be desired. Beyond magazines, Newhouse touched on luxury fashion and the digital sphere’s impact on the industry. “Will not broader availability impact [luxury fashion’s] capacity to charge high prices and command a high profit margin? These are questions which the luxury industry has yet to squarely confront,” Newhouse said of the inevitably less ‘exclusive’ nature of luxury fashion now that high-fashion brands are being forced to embrace the masses via the internet.
“The media is changing with technology, but the dream of luxury remains something magic and timeless,” Newhouse added, somewhat optimistically. One fashion brand facing this conundrum right now is Burberry, a brand that’s “trying to remain understood by its regular customers and reaching at the same time a new, modern target. They want to give an impulsion, to modernize the brand while protecting their authentic and timeless heritage, which can be quite complicated and tricky,” says Luxury Social Media. So far, Christopher Bailey and Burberry seem to be negotiating that line successfully, with youthful collaborations and a healthy 3-D obsession, but what the eventual outcome of such ambitious embracing of the digital world could mean for luxury fashion, which has long prided itself on its exclusivity and tradition, remains to be seen.
Photo of Burberry SS11
I suppose you can stop the rock. With the sun starting to set ever-so-slightly on Condé Nast, it was a matter of time before bosses pulled the plug on some of the more essential expenditures. I know, I know, if Men’s Vogue wasn’t considered essential, then what would be? Well, “Fashion Rocks” naturally. The magazine empire’s star-studded televised gala fusing pop music with high fashion, which has ran strong for five years, will take a break for 2009. It’ll remain in limbo until the company can afford to stop pinching pennies. Although issuing a festive memo to all top-level Condé Nast editors encouraging them to “Go Green!” and use mass transit before promptly cutting off their access to town cars could feasibly go a long way to that end. But until then we can always revel in the event’s brief legacy, which called for artists like Christina Aguilera and The Arcade Fire to set the stage ablaze as supermodels swaggered down the catwalk.