Style Scoop: BFA Awards, Louis Vuitton in Miami, and Karl’s Rolex

In Paris or Munich? Drop by one of the Karl Lagerfeld stores to pick up the Kaiser’s latest customization: a 19,000 euro, matte black Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss with Uncle Karl’s profile at 7 o’clock.

So who won at last night’s British Fashion Awards? Christopher Kane made out big as Womenswear Designer of the Year; Miuccia Prada took home top honors for International Designer; Kate Moss was honored for her 25 years in the industry (talk about staying power – she has a face and body that just won’t quit – see Playboy for proof); Burberry took home two honors for menswear and designer brand; JW Anderson took home the prize for new establishment; Nicholas Kirkwood was named Accessories Designer of the Year – for the third year in a row; and One Direction’s Harry Styles was recognized by Vodafone for embodying the spirit of London in style. I guess he’s named aptly.

Unfortunate news for internet shoppers – the Supreme Court has ruled to uphold New York’s internet tax… meaning your purchases from Amazon and and other online retailers aren’t exempt any longer. This evens the playing field for brick-and-mortar stores, so it’ll be good for business… just maybe not so much for the shopper.

Part of Versace is up for sale, up to a 20% stake. The sale would make some of those involved billionairesnot including Donatella, surprisingly.

Louis Vuitton is set to unveil “a house by the shore” during Design Miami. The house was conceived in 1934, but hadn’t been built ’til now.

Mary Katrantzou Steals the Show at London Fashion Week

While we previously reserved the long weekend for some much-needed R&R, we ended up spending the majority of it glued to our computer screens as we watched the amazingness going on at London Fashion Week. From collective "ohs" and "ahs" at Christopher Kane to makeshift snowstorms at Burberry Prorsum to Alexa Chung levitations and supermodel table dances at Stella McCartney’s surreal dinner party, there’s no better place to be right now than across the pond, digitally or otherwise. Keeping up with LFW’s exciting season is designer Mary Katrantzou, who showed earlier today and has already received tons of praise for her out-of-this-world collection.

If Katrantzou didn’t demonstrate that she’s the queen of technicolor prints before, then this is the range that does it. Prints were bold, offbeat, and imaginative. Showstudio said it best by explaining that the designer used a block color technique that comprised of "massing millions of images of objects of similar colors – pencils, spoons, chess-pieces, hedges, typewriters, that kind of thing – and somehow manipulating those to fit the human form, to flattering effect." The result? 32 pieces of wondrous perfection. See the complete collection here.

Pleasantly Quirky: The Creative Nature of #LFW

New York Fashion Week lasts eight days, not counting the designers who squeeze presentations in before and after the official dates, meaning there are hundreds upon hundreds of collections to be seen that “week”. In comparison, London lasts a short five days, sending editors across the Atlantic without a moment for breath. Some would skip the abbreviated London shows in order to make it to Milan in time, but London is giving us more and more reason to land at Heathrow.  

 

In New York, trends gather. Oxford shirts, black and white, use of lamé… in London, everything is different. What it has in common is that unique London verve.

 

For instance, no one does prints the way that Mary Katrantzou does prints. With such captivating visuals, you’d think that would be enough – slap it on an A-line dress and call it a day – but instead, Katrantzou takes it further. Why not repurpose a lampshade as a skirt? She’s done it before. For spring, she showed excessive ruffles, and details of leather shoes, blown up almost beyond recognition. Though the prints are consistently present every season, she’s also consistently surprising us. It’s never predictable.

Mary Katrantzou/ @elnazyazdani

J.W. Anderson went for nude this season, his first look showing a sheer babydoll dress sized for a toddler and worn as a top, with a similarly styled skirt for coverage, if you’d consider it that. Strategically placed bows over whisper sheer fabric made up the top of half of one dress, with chevron sculpted fabric below. This collection was not wanting for texture.

JW Anderson / @alexcarl

 

Worth a mention: Antonio Berardi’s pretty collection, which, though it was awfully pink, wasn’t so sweet as it was cool. Inventive silhouettes, mullet hemlines, crocodile embossing next to leopard spots, and did I catch a hint of Renaissance flair? Just a hint though. It all melded together perfectly, making it impossible not to notice.

Antonio Berardi

Christopher Kane continued his wildly imaginative streak. Teardrop shaped cutouts lain on their sides, holographic footwear, strategic sheer paneling, cartoonish flowers, and what looked like watercolor painted tinsel all traipsed down the runway. Requisite fashion sweatshirt and pleated midi skirt aside, it didn’t look like anything anyone else was doing. Which is the case for most of those who showed in London. Individuality, uniqueness, creativity – that spirit of London is so pervasive in its clothing, making London Fashion Week all the more exciting. 

 

Christopher Kane/@bof

Designing for the Social Media Set at #LFW

If no one likes your Instagram selfie, did the outfit ever really exist? 

With Facebook, and Facebook photo albums, fast fashion sped up to a dizzying pace, and disposable clothing named itself king. If you weren’t going to wear it more than once, what did quality matter, anyhow? That was then.

Taking into account the importance of impressions, and given that every editor and blogger attending a fashion show or presentation is want to Instagram the hell out of it, it makes sense that the new collections, and the sets produced to showcase the designs, are made to be photographed. It’s a way to edge in on the competition.

Take Sophia Webster into account. Across the pond, London Fashion Week has taken hold. Our quirky relative to the East has made good on a few things so far this LFW: Charming eccentricity, and Instagram-able presentation. The Sophia Webster collection itself was bright, cheery, colorful, and good on camera, but the set! Well, take a look at the photo above.

Last week, the Wall Street Journal recognized social media’s importance in fashion and retail. Influencers, or “the word formally known as bloggers,” according to WSJ style reporter Elizabeth Holmes, bring an audience with them on social media. The more apt they are to snap, the more impressions a brand makes. Brand are hoping that the more likes a ‘gram gets, the more cha-chings it’ll translate to at the cash register. This means that not only is the front row changing faces, but also that the designers are taking the internet and social media into account when creating the collections.  

Of Christopher Kane’s spring show, in a panel on Monday Lou Stoppard from ShowStudio – a site founded and directed by photographer Nick Knight – said the collection was for “the street style generation – everything is quite iconic.” She’s referring to the Tumblr-friendly details of the show, how the clothes will translate on the street to pure street style photographer bait.  It’s a genius way to up brand awareness. Who can resist snapping those holographic heels, the cutouts, and the outlandish floral motifs?  

Christopher Kane, via @bof

The trends themselves may fade more quickly, but the social media savvy of fashion designers just seems to be taking off.

Marc Jacobs’ Entire Spring / Summer 2012 Collection Stolen In Paris

Mysteriously, all 42 ‘looks’ (i.e, outfits, because some of us are wearing sweatpants and don’t follow up on fashion lingo) have vanished in Paris. 

One wonders how someone could pull off such a stunt without some kind of Oceans 11-esque tomfoolery, yet apparently, it’s been done without a trace. In an email sent out to fashion editors earlier today the Marc Jacobs spokesperson declared that their November 17th ‘press day’ (i.e, re-showing of the line) would no longer be taking place due to the theft. 

Theft is not entirely unusual in the fashion world; in 2007 designer Christopher Kane was the victim of theft when his entire 2008 spring/summer collection was stolen from his studio just days before it premiered at London’s fashion week. At least Marc’s collection got to be premiered – it’s going to be incredibly hard for whoever stole the items to try and sell them on anything other than the black market. 

More on this as it develops. 

Behold the Christopher Kane & J Brand Denim Collaboration

Back in February, we revealed that this year’s Vogue Fashion Fund winner Christopher Kane was teaming up with denim label J Brand to produce a line of jeanswear for his resort 2012 collection. While the range isn’t up for grabs until November, Telegraph nabbed an exclusive first look at the goods, which feature stonewashed skinny jeans and neon pedal pushers (above). See more looks after the jump.

image Dark and light denim come in J Brand’s classic glove fit. Pedal pushers are a nice nod to SS12’s Bermuda shorts.

image While the range doesn’t include the signature Kane acid-trip prints we hoped for, it does offer some retro flair by way of fluorescent bell-bottoms.

Peep the full collection here.

Christopher Kane Teams Up With J Brand for Capsule Denim Collection

Fresh off his 2011 Vogue Fashion Fund win, a dazzling London Fashion Week show, and major props from Anna Wintour, London-based designer Christopher Kane has announced that he’s working with J Brand to produce jeanswear for his 2012 resort collection. In addition to the use of denim, the line will employ a range of other fabrics, which we hope will include a touch of Kane’s signature acid-trip prints.

This isn’t the first time that he’s collaborated with the US-based premium denim company. Last year, Kane and four other emerging designers created limited edition jeans for J Brand in support of their 5×5 project, which went so well that he and J Brand founder Jeff Rudes decided to delve into a long-term business venture. Denim with fresh, innovative design and an ultra-flattering fit? So long, jeggings!

SS11’s Candy-Colored Palette

FW10 might be all about camel coats and a neutral palette, but come spring, fashion will be sporting a slew of candy-colored shades. The message at Milan Fashion Week, at least in terms of color, is loud and clear, bright and cheerful. Prada led the week’s crusade for color with a collection that included vibrant splashes of oranges, greens, and blues, by way of structured garments and sumptuous fur accessories. When Skittle-toned hues weren’t served up in monochromatic ensembles, they surfaced in banana prints and bold stripes. Jil Sander’s catwalk was likewise awash in bright shades. Raf Simons, a critics’ favorite this season, played with flowing, floor-length silhouettes in a color wheel Rothko would have approved of.

Meanwhile, Missoni sent kaleidoscopic prints in remarkably bold colors down its runway this week. Christopher Kane and Marc Jacobs, too, showed clothes in a paint wheel of unapologetic brights. But, as with many trends, there’s a counterpart at work: subtle, monochromatic earth tones as seen on the runways of Armani (where gray was omnipresent) and Dolce & Gabbana (whose SS11 collection included not a single piece that wasn’t white).

Photo of Versus SS11 via Style.com

Spring’s Most Ladylike Looks

We’re just past the midway point for Spring 2011 collections, and it’s clear designers are going for a more posh and polished look. From New York to London, it’s been all about ladylike looks. That said, the strongest collections have come from designers who are mixing Uptown glamor with a more modern edge.

Lots of designers are relying on lace, as one would expect from such a demure season as this, but it’s looking best on runways when it’s being used unconventionally. At Proenza Schouler, designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez sent down some show-stopping finale dresses in bold, futuristic colors layered atop minimalist undergarments.

imageimage

In London, Christopher Kane paid homage to British aristocracy though a psychedelic lens with a collection of neon lace suiting made from perforated leather with a vinyl coating.

image

Other Brits, such as Marios Schwab and Erdem, also turned out lace-clad ladies that seemed ready to kick some ass while minding their manners.

imageimage Schwab

image Erdem.

All and all, it’s not your grandma’s cup-of-tea, but most certainly worth the waitlist come spring.