Issa Rae Blasts Kanye’s Slavery Remarks During CFDA Hosting Speech

 

Issa Rae hosted last night’s Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Awards at the Brooklyn Museum, honoring the year’s best achievements in clothing and accessory design.

During her hosting monologue, Rae blasted Kanye West for his recent comments to TMZ that slavery was a choice, joking: “I’m about as fashionable as Kanye is black — only when it’s convenient,” she mused, continuing: “That joke was my choice, just like slavery.”

While West was not in the audience himself, his wife, Kim Kardashian West, was, to receive the inaugural Influencer Award.

The Insecure star wore a blue glittering Pyer Moss gown/jumpsuit with a belt that read “Every n***a is a star,” the title of the Boris Gardiner song famously sampled by Kendrick Lamar on his album To Pimp A Butterfly. She’s the first African-American to MC the show.

Take a look at her outfit below.

 

New Study Finds the Fashion Industry’s Top Positions Are Dominated by Men

 

A new study titled The Glass Runway finds that only 14% of fashion’s top positions are occupied by women, despite recent hires like Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior and Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy.

The report was conducted by the CFDA and Glamour, and found that even though women spend on average three times more on clothing than men do, their opportunities and salaries in the industry do not reflect their engagement.

For example, 85% of students enrolled in New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology are women, yet most of them have trouble finding a job above entry-level even after years in the business.

The study also looked at pay disparity – Condé Nast, for example, employs three times more women than it does men, yet its female employees earn on average two-thirds of what their male counterparts make.

Of 535 professionals interviewed for the report, 100% of women described asking for a promotion as difficult, and only 27% had received advice from their superiors on their careers.

“Fashion is a creative industry, and I think creative people have a strong sense of humanity,” said CEO of the CFDA Steven Kolb in the study. “We need to look at how to translate that humanity to more tangible opportunities for women in their careers and in their lives so that they can continue to flourish and grow.”

Is it Fall Yet? Our Favorite NYFW Collections We Can’t Wait to Wear

Alexander Wang F/W ’18

 

Is it just us or is fall fashion just so much better than spring? That was definitely the case at the NYFW FW18 shows the past two weeks. And so while most New Yorkers might be pining for spring sunshine throughout this temperamental (but mostly cold) Northeast winter, we find ourselves counting down the days until September finally returns, and we can look cute again.

From Matrix-inspired office wear at Alexander Wang to ’80s power suits at Marc Jacobs and ’00s-era Paris Hilton puppy vibes at Gauntlett Cheng, we’ve compiled here our favorite Fashion Week moments – plus two honorable mentions because, well, we just couldn’t bear to narrow it down.

 

Alexander Wang

 

 

We’ve loved Alexander Wang since he first debuted his part minimalist, part rock ‘n’ roll It-girl uniforms; but we have to say, the last few seasons have left us with a never-ending #WANGOVER. This season, though, the San Fransisco born designer channeled The Matrix-meets-The Office, delivering a range of post-apocalyptic professional wear that we want every piece of – especially, the fur-lined ’90s CK-inspired undies.

 

Marc Jacobs

 

 

Marc Jacobs is basically the Alexander Wang of the late ’90s. So, needless to say, we’re giant fans. But much like last season’s awful #WANGOVER, Marc has fallen off a bit the last few years. I mean, remember the dreadlocks fiasco? Still, it seams Jacobs got the memo (or finally found it again), and this season felt like a return to form. Part ’80s power suit, part goth noir, the Marc Jacobs FW18 collection felt like Bianca Jagger in her white suit days, if she had Grace Jones’ attitude and Siouxsie’s sense of color. What more could you possibly as for?

 

Eckhaus Latta

 

 

One of fashion’s favorite new brands, Eckhaus Latta has mastered minimalism in its purest form. For their FW18 collection, designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta built upon the easy going feel of their last few seasons, but experimented more with shape and color than they ever have before. While the knits and sheer dresses fit right into the Eckhaus Latta playbook, bright yellow flowy fabrics were a new look for the brand. Overall, the collection was bold but understated, yet what Eckhaus Latta does best isn’t actually their clothes. Season after season, and despite its growing popularity, the brand remains dedicated to its outsider ethos. And did we mention their casting always rules? This season saw a diverse runway filled with New York City favorites, including model Paloma Elsesser and indie rock royalty Coco Gordon-Moore.

 

Tom Ford

 

 

Nobody does sleek and sexy like Tom Ford. This season, the designer went all in with leopard print, mixing loud colors with the even louder print in all different sizes from head-to-toe. Not only did each look feel totally timeless, you’ve got to give it to someone who can make lime green or bright red leopard print look not only classy, but cool.

 

Chromat

 

 

Another one of the fashion industry’s favorite young designers, Becca McCharen-Tran built Chromat to empower women of all shapes, sizes and colors. While most brands have embraced a long overdue push for diversity on the runway (not looking at you, Stefano Gabbana), Chromat also delivers it IRL. With a focus on emerging technology and body positivity, the label pushes boundaries and challenges the fashion status quo. For her latest collection, McCharen stuck with oranges and neons, accessorizing each look with Flaming Hot Cheeto bags tied to models’ pants and in their hands. Rapper Slay Rizz finished out the show with a killer performance in an orange two-piece by Chromat, and even though we didn’t get any cheese puffs to go, we were sold.

 

Dion Lee

 

 

Since launching his eponymous label in 2009, Australian designer Dion Lee has consistently delivered classic yet forward-thinking clothing, with his FW18 collection serving as further proof of his talent. Outfitting traditional sportswear looks with architectural bra-tops, it seems Lee also watched The Matrix and The Office before designing his collection. But unlike Wang’s, the Dion Lee range felt modern, not futuristic – the Neo influence was subtle. Lee also brought in more feminine elements, juxtaposing the structured suits and tops with flowy skirts.

 

Gypsy Sport

 

 

Ever since winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2015, Rio Uribe has been making waves with his brand Gypsy Sport. Inspired by New York City, Uribe turned heads last year when he decided to present his Spring collection in Paris. But for FW18, Uribe returned to the city, thank god. Other than that, though, this was an all new Gypsy Sport. Over the last few years, the brand has become recognizable for their upcycled jerseys and I <3 NY logo tees, with the Gypsy Sport name in place of the heart. This season, Uribe ditched the streetwear element, presenting a romantic collection filled with suits and gothic ruffles, as well as a few sustainable aluminum looks. Of course, the designer stuck to his habit of using friends and members of the LGBTQ community as models, including 10-year-old activist and drag star Desmond is Amazing, who stole the show (and probably all of Fashion Week). Known for his willingness to experiment, it’s hard to tell whether this collection was a one-off, or the evolution of the brand. Either way, it doesn’t really matter, because whatever Gypsy Sport does is really, really good.

 

Adam Selman

 

 

Another CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund alum, Adam Selman won Fashion Week in our book. The FW18 collection was kinky, it was campy, it was part John Waters, part new wave, it was punk as fuck. Featuring a collaboration with artist Cheyco Leidmann, who created the surrealist prints Selman used on dresses and shirts, the range was bold and colorful, mixing prints, patterns and styles in an ode to photographer Ypsitylla Von Nazareth. In addition to the outfits, Selman also debuted his latest collection for sunglasses brand Le Specs. If you haven’t already been spotting his metallic cat-eyes for the last few years, get ready – this season’s heart-adorned versions are about to be everywhere. We want ours now.

 

Vaquera

 

 

Most people had never heard of New York City brand Vaquera before last NYFW, when they debuted a dress made only of blue and gold credit cards. For some reason, the look ended up on every news outlet, even though it was one of the weakest of the show. (We’re not saying we didn’t like it – we did.) What Vaquera does best is their more subtle work. This season, the designers seemed to realize that as well, presenting a range of deconstructed pieces that were delicate and cool. The highlights: an oversized blazer dress, cropped suit and crazy snakeskin skirt that all looked like they were slightly unfinished, but in reality, took forever to make. And isn’t that the best stuff anyway? The kind that costs, like, $10,000, but looks like you got it in the back of Duane Reade.

 

Calvin Klein

 

 

Oh, Raf. There’s literally nothing he could do at this point that would make us angry, because every collection he sends down the runway is as close to perfect as it gets. After presenting a men’s collection for his namesake label earlier in the week that revolved around Christiane F. and Cookie Mueller’s Drugs, Simons presented a classic Calvin Klein collection that took all of his quirky eccentricities and somehow made them look, well, classic as fuck. I mean, who else could send swimming caps and sweatshirt-less hoodies down the runway, without looking like he’s trying to be avant-garde? No one. And that’s part of his charm. Unlike a lot of of designers who, when they take over a storied brand, start to lose their individual voice, Raf’s seems to get only louder with each season, and we can’t wait to see what happens next.

 

Jeremy Scott

 

 

We have to be honest when we say that we love Moschino, but have never really caught the Jeremy Scott bug. That is, until this season, where Scott went full-on Fifth Element, with futuristic space-inspired looks. For those of you that don’t know, Jean Paul Gaultier did the costumes for The Fifth Element, and it’s basically a 2-hour fashion orgasm. So, when Scott sent Gigi Hadid down the runway in a silver overall dress, pink crop-top and matching pink LeeLoo-inspired wig – well, we almost stood up to give him immediate applause. The rest of the collection was equally amazing, with all of it feeling retro-futuristic without trying too hard. The key was nothing felt too much like a costume, just the uniform for a school in 2064.

 

Honorable Mentions

Telfar

 

 

This was Telfar Clemons’ second collection since winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, and though it was impeccable, it was the presentation that really kicked ass. Following the runway show that saw Clemons’ solidify his gender neutral ’70s aesthetic, singer/performer Dev Hynes, rapper Ian Isiah, Kelela, Oyinda, 070 Shake and Kelsey Lu took the stage for an intimate performance. The result was emotional yet understated, just like the collection itself.

 

Gauntlett Cheng

 

 

We’re big fans of Esther Gauntlett and Jenny Cheng’s self-aware brand that makes clothes for cool girls all over the world. This season, the duo went Westminster – or maybe Paris Hilton circa 2002. Either way, we were obsessed with the high fashion pieces they presented on models and a group of pups.

 

All photos courtesy of Vogue Runway

Janelle Monáe Gives A Powerful Speech at the CFDA Awards

Photo: @SaintAngeles on Instagram

The CFDA Awards last night saw political statements from a score of fashion’s biggest names. Founder’s Award winner Pat McGrath said “Fashion is an industry where the real insiders are all outsiders,” and in accepting the award for Swarovski Award for Positive Change, Kenneth Cole said, “Thank you for recognizing a socially conscious business model and platform that I believe is so important in this time in which we are living.” But the real speech MVP of the night? Miss Janelle Monáe.

Accepting the CFDA Board of Directors’ Tribute for her contributions to February’s Women’s March on DC, alongside feminist legend Gloria Steinem and Planned Parenthood President Cecile Richards, Monáe quickly steered the conversation out of stilettos and into solidarity.

“As human beings it is going to be our responsibility to take care of one another,” she began. “Women’s rights are human rights. LGBTQ rights are human rights. Poor folks’ rights are human rights. Immigrants’ rights are human rights. Minorities’ rights are human rights. So as human beings let us never forget that none of us are free until we are all free. I ask you tonight—the dreamers… the students up there, I see y’all! We’re here. We’re all here. And we’re artists.”

She continued, “I never wanted to be a politician because artists get to be honest. We get to tell it like it is through our work. And I ask you guys tonight to stand with me. Let’s continue to speak out against the sexism, the racism, the homophobia, the Islamophobia, and all those things that are constantly trying to divide us. In these moments of turmoil, I know we see it, and we’re tired of it—we must choose freedom instead of fear.”

Take a look at the speech, below:

CFDA Announces Plans to Make Fashion Even Faster

Fashion shows are a “broken system,” according to the Council of Fashion Designers of America, who announced yesterday that they’ve been investigating ways to restructure the twice-yearly New York Fashion Week schedule. Rather than previewing what to expect in the coming season, the CFDA is moving toward a more consumer-driven experience that presents in-season collections already available for purchase.

We have designers, retailers and everybody complaining about the shows,” said CFDA Chairman Diane von Furstenberg to WWD. “Something’s not right anymore because of social media, people are confused […] We have some ideas. Everyone seems to feel that the shows being consumer-driven is a very good idea.”

Alongside Boston Consulting Group, the CFDA will begin conducting a survey after the holidays that closely examines this potential by assessing who in the industry is in favor of a change. Though they’ve yet to pinpoint the perfect solution, von Furstenberg suggested a shift would allow brands to preview their collections more intimately with press and retailers six months out. Once product has shipped, these brands could then produce a more timely big-budget production to coincide with the official release. 

With this organization, fall collections would be shown in September and spring in February, which CFDA President and CEO Steven Kolb said would benefit designers and shoppers equally. “We want to take a broken system and create a new system,” he told WWD. “Ninety-five percent of the people I’ve spoken to say, ‘Amen.’”

Inside the CFDA After Party with Victor Cruz, Gigi Hadid, Jhene Aiko and More

Jenna Lyons, Maxwell Osborne, Prabal Gurung, and Dao Yi Chow at the CFDA After Party. Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

January Jones, Janelle Monae, Zackary Quinto, Bella Hadid, Jemima Kirke (and the Fat Jew) showed up to celebrate the exclusive CFDA After Party co hosted by Refinery29 at the Top of the Standard.

After the CFDA Awards it’s the after party — and supper — where winners and stars celebrated fashion’s finest.

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Rachel Roy and Britney Snow. Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

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Cynthia Rowley and Harley Viera Newton. Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

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Diane Von Furstenberg. Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

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Gigi Hadid and Bella Hadid. Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

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Janelle Monae and Legendary Damon. Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

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Jhene Aiko, Prabal Gurung, and January Jones. Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

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Jenna Lyons. Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

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Jenna Lyons, Maxwell Osborne, Prabal Gurung, Dao Yi Chow. Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

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Tom Van Dorpe, Miles McMillan, Zackary Quinto, Harley Viera-Newton, Richard Chai and Gigi Hadid. Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

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Victor Cruz with Ovadia & Sons. Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

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Gigi Hadid (and Bella Hadid). Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

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Esteban Cortazar and  Hanne Gaby Odiele. Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

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Jemima Kirke and Zackary Quinto. Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

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June Ambrose. Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

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Mickey Drexler, Karlie Kloss and Casey Neistat. Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

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Instagram’s Kevin Systrom and The Fat Jew. Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

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Daria Strokous and Natasha Poly. Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

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Maxwell Osborne and Misha Nonoo. Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

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Jason Wu and Nadja Swarovski. Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

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Maxwell Osborne and Binx Walton. Photo: Joe Schildhorn/BFAnyc.com

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Joan Smalls and Victor Cruz. Photo: Joe Schildhorn/BFAnyc.com

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Karen Elson, Tabitha Simmons and Jessica Hart. Photo: Joe Schildhorn/BFAnyc.com

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Taraji P. Henson and Vanessa Hudgens. Photo: Joe Schildhorn/BFAnyc.com

20 Must See Photos + CFDA Awards Winners

Kim Kardashian West wears custom Proenza Schouler with designers Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez. Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

From Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen to Pharrell Williams, the CFDA Awards winners and all the must see photos of the night.

The CFDA Awards — fashion’s Oscars for honoring the best designers and figures in the industry, and, of course, a chance for celebs to pull out all the sartorial stops. A pregnant Kim Kardashian wore sheer, presenter Amanda Seyfried wore a glorious sequined Rodarte number, Pharrell wore a normal-sized hat, Taraji P. Henson looked red hot in Vera Wang, designer Betsey Johnson performed her signature split on the red carpet, and The Fat Jew even showed up, rosé in hand.

Here’s who won:

Womenswear Designer of the Year: Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row

Menswear Designer of the Year: Tom Ford

Accessory Designer of the Year: Tabitha Simmons

Swarovski Award for Womenswear: Rosie Assoulin

Swarovski Award for Menswear: Shayne Oliver for Hood By Air

Swarovski Award for Accessory Design: Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel for Mansur Gavriel

Fashion Icon Award: Pharrell Williams

Lifetime Achievement Award: Betsey Johnson

Media Award: Instagram

International Prize: Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli

See all the greatest looks and photos of the night here:

Betsey Johnson and Pharrell Williams after Williams accepted the Fashion Icon Award.2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Award Presentation

Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen with presenter Amanda Seyfried after accepting the award for Womenswear for The Row2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Award Presentation
Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

Pharrell and Kanye West2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Award Presentation
Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

Amanda Seyfried in a stunning, sparkling Rodarte creation.2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - ArrivalsPhoto: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

Dang, Gigi! Gigi Hadid in a gold jumpsuit — perfection.2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Winners Walk
Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com 

Model Imaan Hammam looking gorgeous in Creatures of the Wind.2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez flank a newly pregnant Kim Kardashian West, wearing a custom dress by the designers.2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

Pharrell Williams and Helen Lasichanh with Kim Kardashian West and Kanye West2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

Empire‘s Taraji P. Henson gives a wave, wearing a custom Vera Wang gown.2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

Taraji P. Henson giving Alexander Wang an enthusiastic hello.2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

Menswear designer of the year Tom Ford.
2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

Posh Spice Victoria Beckham
2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

CFDA President Diane Von Furstenberg with Bill Cunningham at the 2015 CFDA Awards. 2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

Betsey Johnson shows off her signature split — post cartwheel — on the red carpet.2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

Stunning Coco Rocha glows in custom Banana Republic by Marissa Webb.2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

Emmy Rossum in Dion Lee.2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

The Fat Jew, at the CFDA Awards for some inexplicable reason (though surely to the delight of many).2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

Juliette Lewis in a white, feathery ball skirt courtesy of Christian Siriano.2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

Karlie Kloss looking gorgeous in DVF.2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

Tinashe wearing  Public School very very well.2015 CFDA Fashion Awards - Arrivals
Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

 

Find Out Who’s Nominated for a CFDA Award

Photo Credit: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

Last night, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) announced the nominees and honorees for the 2015 CFDA Fashion Awards at an event at Rockefeller Center, hosted by CFDA President Diane von Furstenberg and Nadja Swarovski. This year’s CFDA Awards, in Collaboration with Swarovski, will be handed out June 1 at the official ceremony to take place at Lincoln Center. Below see the rundown of this year’s nominees and honorees:

The Womenswear Designer of the Year Award nominees:

Joseph Altuzarra for Altuzarra

Marc Jacobs

Michael Kors

Lazaro Hernandez  and Jack McCollough for Proenza Schouler

Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row

The Menswear Designer of the Year Award nominees:

Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne for Public School

David Neville and Marcus Wainwright for Rag & Bone

Thom Browne

Tim Coppens

Tom Ford

The Accessory Designer of the Year Award Nominees:

Alexander Wang

Irene Neuwirth

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler

Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row

Tabitha Simmons

The Swarovski Award for Womenswear Nominees:

Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne for Public School

Rosie Assoulin

Ryan Roche

Swarovski Award for Menswear Nominees:

Shayne Oliver for Hood by Air

Alex Orley, Matthew Orley and Samantha Orley for Orley

Ariel and Shimon Ovadia for Ovadia & Sons

Swarovski Award for Accessory Design Nominees:

Paul Andrew

Eva Zuckerman for Eva Fehren

Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel for Mansur Gavriel

Meanwhile, the honorary awards will go to a diverse group of fashion luminaries.

The Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award, named for the fiercely independent, four-time CFDA Fashion Award winner, goes to Betsey Johnson.

The Media Award, given in honor of Eugenia Sheppard, the influential journalist who revolutionized fashion reporting during her time at the New York City Herald Tribune, will be given to Instagram.

The Founders Award, given in honor of CFDA founder Eleanor Lambert who is widely credited with putting American fashion on the map, will go to Millard “Mickey” Drexler, Chairman and CEO of J.Crew Group, Inc.  

The International Award will go to Maria Grazia Chiuriand Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino for their creative contribution to the international fashion stage.

What You Need to Know About the New, CFDA-Improved Fashion Calendar

The CFDA purchased the 65-year-old Fashion Calendar back in October, and now it’s officially launched. What to know about the exclusive new service:

1. It’s members only. Annual membership will cost $550 although special memberships will also be available, such as week-long ones for market weeks at $150.

2. One of the primary goals is to avoid scheduling conflicts, hopefully helping to alleviate the whole three-fashion-shows-within-five-minutes-of-each-other scenario.

3. The calendar already has more than 650 subscribers.

4. It can be used as a web app, and can be viewed on a phone, but there is not yet an app for your iPhone or Android.

5. There is mass potential for partnerships to come, though they are not established yet, with brands ranging from Fashion GPS to Uber and the MTA.

Learn more here.