Runway Rundown: All The Best From Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear, Resort and Fall ’18 Couture

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Valentino Fall ’18 Couture

 

A lot has happened on the runway over the last few weeks. There was Paris Couture Week; before that, some designers showed their Spring ’19 collections; and in between all of those, there was Resort (which we don’t usually care for, but this season had one great moment). So, we don’t blame you if you’ve missed some things. And because we love you, we’re going to be your fashion fairy godmothers, and round up everything you need to see if you haven’t already (and if you have, all of the amazing things you should look at again). Below, our favorite runway moments — or, as we like to call them, the only ones worth mentioning.

 

Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear:

Spring can be really boring. I mean, florals, for Spring? Groundbreaking. No, but seriously, it can really hard to re-invent the wheel when that wheel is a limited range of flowing skirts, mini dresses and caftans. That’s why our favorite brands threw out seasonal rules altogether and did things like patent leather and hoodies.

 

Alyx

 

For Matthew Williamson’s first ever runway show for his four-year-old brand Alyx (or, as its named now, 1017 Alyx 9SM for Williamson’s birthday and the location of his first studio at 9 Saint Marks), the designer went all out. Instead of debuting a ton of cliche Spring pieces, like bathing suits and floral dresses, the collection looked almost as if it could’ve been for Fall. With a post-apocalyptic vibe perfect for our current political climate, Willliamson’s pieces looked like a uniform for, albeit incredibly fashionable, anti-fascist soldiers. Sign me up.

 

Vetements

 

VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019 – WATCH THE OFFICIAL VIDEO – LINK IN THE PROFILE

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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For fashion world darling Demna Gvasalia’s turn on the runway, the designer paid homage to his home country, Georgia. Gvasalia casted the show with all Georgian teenagers, and took the opportunity to teach fashion insiders about the current political turmoil happening in the region. In fact, each piece from the collection comes with a giant bar code, that once scanned with your iPhone, will open an app that features facts about the country. And as much as I want to hate Vetements, I wish I could afford to pay $1,000 for a sweatshirt.

 

Kenzo

 

Prints, prints, prints. #KENZOSS19

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Kenzo S/S ’19 was all about prints. Gingham, checks, polka-dots, snakeskin — you name it, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon designed it, and styled it together. The whole maximalist, should-be-clashing-but-instead-looks amazing thing has always been Kenzo’s vibe, but each season Lim and Leon seem to do it better and better. After last year’s Spring collection, I really thought the brand had reached their peak, but this season even makes me want to wear color.

 


 

Resort:

Honestly, I shouldn’t have even included Resort on this list, since it’s really not a list – it’s just Miu Miu.

 

Miu Miu

 

If Miu Miu’s Resort ’19 collection was bad, it truly wouldn’t have even mattered. With a casting like the one they had at The Regina Hotel in Paris last week, including Rowan Blanchard, Kaia Gerber, Uma Thurman, Chloe Sevigny and Naomi Campbell, no one would have even noticed the clothes. But we did, because the collection was perfect. Kind of preppy, but with a race car driver-meets-Valley of the Dolls-meets-Maui sort of look, the Miu Miu collection was what Miuccia Prada still does best, even after all these years: it was fun, it was free, and somehow, between all the clashing prints and furry heels, it was still subtle.

 


 

Fall ’18 Couture:

Couture is all about fantasy; it’s about staring at beautiful clothes you desperately want but have absolutely nowhere to wear them to. When it came to this year’s Couture Week, our favorite designers didn’t let us down, delivering some of the dreamiest collections we’ve ever seen grace the runway. I mean, Kaia Gerber at Valentino. Enough said. But don’t worry, we’ll say more anyway.

 

Chanel

 

For his Fall ’18 Chanel couture show, Karl Lagerfeld paid homage to Paris. Honestly, everything the guy does is good, and the fact that he’s still able to send tweed two-pieces down the runway, and make them look good — well, that alone, proves he’s a genius. In addition to his love of Paris, the designer built this collection around what he calls the “high profile” — long skirts that unzip to show thigh-bearing minis underneath. “You can wear it zipped down when you visit your banker, no?” he told Vogue. “And zipped up when you see your lover after!”

 

Valentino

 

At this point, there’s no way you haven’t seen at least one photo from the Valentino couture show. Images of Kaia Gerber in her amazing beehive have literally been flooding the internet. But for once, the talk is true and all the hype is worth it. The Valentino collection was the MVP of Couture Week — and maybe all of 2018. Obviously, Pat McGrath and Guido Palau killed it with the beauty; but the collection itself was completely breathtaking. I mean, the models looked like actual angels floating down the runway in their billowy gowns and floral headdresses.

 

Fendi

 

 

Fendi always knows what they’re doing. For their couture collection, the brand took a step back from the logomania that’s taken over their last few seasons, and created a ’60s-inspired ode to fur. While a lot of the industry has vowed to go fur free, Lagerfeld has doubled down with Fendi. Though the collection included bits of actual fur, it was more about the ways in which he treated other fabrics that created a sort of gaudy (but in a good way), glam feel that I totally could’ve imaged Liz Taylor or Anne Welles in.

 

Margiela

 

Discover highlights from our Autumn-Winter 2018 ‘Artisanal’ Collection designed by @jgalliano: The nomadic idea of taking life on the road is conveyed in abundant layering where garments interweave and mutate. #maisonmargiela #artisanal #artisanalartistry – Music: “Unchained Melody” Written By: Alex North & Hy Zaret Courtesy Unchained Melody Publishing LLC – Black Saturn, Nicholas Hill, Luciano Ugo Rossi, Glenn Herweijer; Ben Sumner. KPM Music When The Clock Stops, Nikky French. KPM Music Breakacuda,Benjamin Medcalf. Anger Music Circus Caravan MYMA. Justement Music Flight Remembered, Nicholas Hill, Glen Herweijer, Ben Sumner. KPM Music The Arrival, David James Caton, Harry Valentine. Anger Music Etude in e major, Frederic Chopin, Tolga Kashif, KPM Music Warhammer, Darren Mudge. Anger Music Arrangement : Jeremy Healy

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Galliano went all Fifth Element for his latest Margiela Artisanal collection (he’s too cool for couture, natch). Using VR headsets and iPhones as accessories, the designer sent a retro-futuristic, technology-obsessed collection down the runway. And hey, since people are already attached to their phones, physically adhering them to our outfits seems like a natural next step. That, or we’re going to war with aliens and Galliano is designing the outfits.

 

Viktor and Rolf

 

To celebrate their 25 years together, Viktor & Rolf decided to take 25 of the brand’s most iconic looks, and update them for their Fall ’18 couture collection. That update meant turning everything white and covering them in Swarovski crystals. Though I’ve always been a fan of Viktor & Rolf, there’s literally nothing more perfect than the bed dresses they originally created for their Fall ’05 collection — or, at least, I thought, until I saw this season’s iteration, complete with white bedazzled pillows and a down evening dress. Sigh. This is what dreams are made of.

 

Photos & Video: Instagram

Kenzo Presents Futuristic Hiking Gear for Resort 2013

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When Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim took over Kenzo last year, I knew that the French fashion house was in for an exciting treat. After all, the OC founders were partially responsible for launching the careers of Rodarte and Proenza Schouler—two brands that have expertly managed to reach mainstream audiences without losing cult-status appeal. For Kenzo, Leon and Lim are trying to do just the opposite: infuse new cool into a globally recognized brand. They do it well for resort 2013. 

Similar to what we saw in resort 2012, Kenzo is heavy on the pattern play for their after-spring-but-before-fall phase. But rather than opt for pop hues, the brand takes inspiration from the earthy and jewel-toned color palettes found in trekking attire and punches them up with mismatched jumbles of prints. Volume also plays a heavy part in this collection, courtesy of intentionally bulky outerwear and A-line dresses, as does function.

Besides the ridiculously killer footwear (those hiking boots and snakeskin platforms are sure to instantly sell out), collection highlights include a transformable jacket that can go from mid-length to cropped in one zip, drawstring pants (in a cool way), a baroque-meets-camo pantsuit and a bag that features a built-in iPad case. See the complete collection here

It’s All New: Balenciaga’s Store, Thom Browne’s Look, LVMH’s Fund: Today’s #StyleScoop

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Catch up on the latest happenings in fashion and style:

Fledgling designers will have another shot at a helping hand thanks to LVMH’s new global fashion prize. WIth members like Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Phoebe Philo, Nicolas Ghesquiere and Riccardo Tisci on the board, winners will be privy to their advice along with a 300,000 euro prize. The prize aims to find the fashion designer of tomorrow – without the American/British limits the CFDA and BFC place on their funds. Kenzo/Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim will join in on the search. The 30 semifinalists will be flown by LVMH to Paris to show their collections in March.

Alexander Wang bowed his new Balenciaga retail store in SoHo, feted last night by the likes of Julianne Moore, Joseph Altuzarra, Max Snow, Vanessa Traina, and Julia Restoin Roitfeld. What to expect? Lots of green marble.

Love Thom Browne but afraid of a highwater? Fortunately for those seeking a classic American look, Thom Browne is expanding his offerings to include a new line – andt this is a little confusing, so stay with me – called Thom Browne. What about his other Thom Browne line? It’ll be renamed Thom Brown New York. The new Thom Browne will feature his aesthetic with a more classic fitting suit.

CFDA winners Dao Yi Chow and Maxwell Osbourne of Public School are working hard on their J.Crew collaboration collection, and there’s a whisper in the air about a possible women’s line. Which is great news for women. Fingers crossed.

The fashion weeks controversy has been ongoing – scheduling is a nightmare for everyone, and it’s no secret that Milan has been the stickiest of all the cities in refusing to budge or cooperate. But this is progress – Giorgio Armani joined the National Chamber of Italian Fashion in an attempt to reinvigorate Milan Fashion Week. He still wants all Italian designers to show in Italy. But he recognizes the need for reorganization. We’re on the right track now.

On to more serious business, those working to improve safety standards in the Bangladesh factories have found some common ground and are moving toward an agreement. Good news all around.

Fashioneer: Kenzo Can’t Stop Being Cool

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Newsflash: Kenzo is really cool. Like, really, really cool. From designing futuristic hiking gear to booking cult-favorite musician Blood Orange at their London Fashion Week party, under the creative direction of Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim the Paris-based fashion house continues to roll out compelling collections and wicked collaborations that call to a new, more hip generation of Kenzo fans. Case in point: their color-happy fall/winter campaign and latest Vans collab.

To match iconic artist Jean-Paul Goude‘s campaign images for the brand, which includes a group shot (pictured) starring an exciting blend of dancers and models (heyyy Xiao Wen!), Kenzo teamed up with Carl Burgess and Thomas Traum to release a promo video, which you can see here. The clip is set in a marble palace with Kenzo-patterned walls and features a model storming through the venue to a party beat as her looks change from one killer ensemble to the next.

This week Kenzo also released their second round of limited edition Vans kicks, which are adorned with four new prints in eight new colors. Scoop them up here before it’s too late, and stay tuned for more examples of said coolness. 

Opening Ceremony Founders New Creative Directors of Kenzo

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Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, founders of directional boutique Opening Ceremony, have been tapped to lead LVMH’s Kenzo label. Their first collection is set to debut this fall. “After eight positive years, Kenzo and Antonio Marras have decided to end their collaboration,” announced the French luxury group. As abrupt as it sounds, leading a brand feels like a natural next step for Leon and Lim, considering how they’ve single-handedly propelled a number of labels to stardom, including Rodarte and Proenza Schouler.

“The retailers are good at creating contemporary products and, more, they’re good at communicating what they do,” notes Cathy Horyn of The New York Times. “And Kenzo, which needed new excitement, will provide them with a bigger stage, not to mention the resources of LVMH, which has owned the label since 1993.”

So, what does this mean for the Opening Ceremony brand? Will Leon and Lim continue to manage, or will their brand’s creative team step up while the duo becomes acclimated to their new roles? Either way, we can’t wait to see what cutting-edge concepts Leon and Lim have in store for Kenzo 2.0.

Saturday With Spike Jonze & Opening Ceremony’s Founders

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A new two-part video interview on VBS.TV features director Spike Jonze talking shop with Carol Lim and Humberto Leon–the brains behind the Opening Ceremony empire.

In the video, the duo shows off their talent for talking in unison: “I’m really obsessed with twins and two people speaking similarly,” Leon laughs. Lim and Leon, who now oversee a total of four stores as well as a shop and blog, divulge what it was like to start their brand. Basically, it boiled down to laziness, an urge to travel and $20,000 (the pair could only get a bank loan to match as much as they’d saved: $10,000). With that money, they jetted off to Hong Kong to buy up wares to stock as part of a rotating focus on various countries, just like the Opening Ceremony, which inhabits a new nation every four years.

“Within the first 2-and-a-half weeks nearly everything had sold out. So we had to go back and double our buy,” they say of the total 16 trips they took that year to buy up more stock. “The momentum just became this thing where if you didn’t buy it at Opening Ceremony then you wouldn’t get it,” Leon says of the business model that turned a sleepy Soho store into an international sensation. In years since, Leon and Lim have continually filled their shops with wares you can’t find anywhere else: be they exclusive imports or one of a kind OC collaborations (from Chloe Sevigny and Keds to Levi’s).

The second part of the interview also entails a tour of the newly opened OC store in the Ace Hotel. There’s toothpaste from Japan, Opening Ceremony condoms (customized by the likes of Jeremy Scott), the entire Criterion Collection and a pretty amazing pizza chair with removable pepperoni chairs. There’s also a touching last few minutes that includes lots of platonic love spouting, tears and a three-way hug.