Is it Fall Yet? Our Favorite NYFW Collections We Can’t Wait to Wear

Alexander Wang F/W ’18

 

Is it just us or is fall fashion just so much better than spring? That was definitely the case at the NYFW FW18 shows the past two weeks. And so while most New Yorkers might be pining for spring sunshine throughout this temperamental (but mostly cold) Northeast winter, we find ourselves counting down the days until September finally returns, and we can look cute again.

From Matrix-inspired office wear at Alexander Wang to ’80s power suits at Marc Jacobs and ’00s-era Paris Hilton puppy vibes at Gauntlett Cheng, we’ve compiled here our favorite Fashion Week moments – plus two honorable mentions because, well, we just couldn’t bear to narrow it down.

 

Alexander Wang

 

 

We’ve loved Alexander Wang since he first debuted his part minimalist, part rock ‘n’ roll It-girl uniforms; but we have to say, the last few seasons have left us with a never-ending #WANGOVER. This season, though, the San Fransisco born designer channeled The Matrix-meets-The Office, delivering a range of post-apocalyptic professional wear that we want every piece of – especially, the fur-lined ’90s CK-inspired undies.

 

Marc Jacobs

 

 

Marc Jacobs is basically the Alexander Wang of the late ’90s. So, needless to say, we’re giant fans. But much like last season’s awful #WANGOVER, Marc has fallen off a bit the last few years. I mean, remember the dreadlocks fiasco? Still, it seams Jacobs got the memo (or finally found it again), and this season felt like a return to form. Part ’80s power suit, part goth noir, the Marc Jacobs FW18 collection felt like Bianca Jagger in her white suit days, if she had Grace Jones’ attitude and Siouxsie’s sense of color. What more could you possibly as for?

 

Eckhaus Latta

 

 

One of fashion’s favorite new brands, Eckhaus Latta has mastered minimalism in its purest form. For their FW18 collection, designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta built upon the easy going feel of their last few seasons, but experimented more with shape and color than they ever have before. While the knits and sheer dresses fit right into the Eckhaus Latta playbook, bright yellow flowy fabrics were a new look for the brand. Overall, the collection was bold but understated, yet what Eckhaus Latta does best isn’t actually their clothes. Season after season, and despite its growing popularity, the brand remains dedicated to its outsider ethos. And did we mention their casting always rules? This season saw a diverse runway filled with New York City favorites, including model Paloma Elsesser and indie rock royalty Coco Gordon-Moore.

 

Tom Ford

 

 

Nobody does sleek and sexy like Tom Ford. This season, the designer went all in with leopard print, mixing loud colors with the even louder print in all different sizes from head-to-toe. Not only did each look feel totally timeless, you’ve got to give it to someone who can make lime green or bright red leopard print look not only classy, but cool.

 

Chromat

 

 

Another one of the fashion industry’s favorite young designers, Becca McCharen-Tran built Chromat to empower women of all shapes, sizes and colors. While most brands have embraced a long overdue push for diversity on the runway (not looking at you, Stefano Gabbana), Chromat also delivers it IRL. With a focus on emerging technology and body positivity, the label pushes boundaries and challenges the fashion status quo. For her latest collection, McCharen stuck with oranges and neons, accessorizing each look with Flaming Hot Cheeto bags tied to models’ pants and in their hands. Rapper Slay Rizz finished out the show with a killer performance in an orange two-piece by Chromat, and even though we didn’t get any cheese puffs to go, we were sold.

 

Dion Lee

 

 

Since launching his eponymous label in 2009, Australian designer Dion Lee has consistently delivered classic yet forward-thinking clothing, with his FW18 collection serving as further proof of his talent. Outfitting traditional sportswear looks with architectural bra-tops, it seems Lee also watched The Matrix and The Office before designing his collection. But unlike Wang’s, the Dion Lee range felt modern, not futuristic – the Neo influence was subtle. Lee also brought in more feminine elements, juxtaposing the structured suits and tops with flowy skirts.

 

Gypsy Sport

 

 

Ever since winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2015, Rio Uribe has been making waves with his brand Gypsy Sport. Inspired by New York City, Uribe turned heads last year when he decided to present his Spring collection in Paris. But for FW18, Uribe returned to the city, thank god. Other than that, though, this was an all new Gypsy Sport. Over the last few years, the brand has become recognizable for their upcycled jerseys and I <3 NY logo tees, with the Gypsy Sport name in place of the heart. This season, Uribe ditched the streetwear element, presenting a romantic collection filled with suits and gothic ruffles, as well as a few sustainable aluminum looks. Of course, the designer stuck to his habit of using friends and members of the LGBTQ community as models, including 10-year-old activist and drag star Desmond is Amazing, who stole the show (and probably all of Fashion Week). Known for his willingness to experiment, it’s hard to tell whether this collection was a one-off, or the evolution of the brand. Either way, it doesn’t really matter, because whatever Gypsy Sport does is really, really good.

 

Adam Selman

 

 

Another CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund alum, Adam Selman won Fashion Week in our book. The FW18 collection was kinky, it was campy, it was part John Waters, part new wave, it was punk as fuck. Featuring a collaboration with artist Cheyco Leidmann, who created the surrealist prints Selman used on dresses and shirts, the range was bold and colorful, mixing prints, patterns and styles in an ode to photographer Ypsitylla Von Nazareth. In addition to the outfits, Selman also debuted his latest collection for sunglasses brand Le Specs. If you haven’t already been spotting his metallic cat-eyes for the last few years, get ready – this season’s heart-adorned versions are about to be everywhere. We want ours now.

 

Vaquera

 

 

Most people had never heard of New York City brand Vaquera before last NYFW, when they debuted a dress made only of blue and gold credit cards. For some reason, the look ended up on every news outlet, even though it was one of the weakest of the show. (We’re not saying we didn’t like it – we did.) What Vaquera does best is their more subtle work. This season, the designers seemed to realize that as well, presenting a range of deconstructed pieces that were delicate and cool. The highlights: an oversized blazer dress, cropped suit and crazy snakeskin skirt that all looked like they were slightly unfinished, but in reality, took forever to make. And isn’t that the best stuff anyway? The kind that costs, like, $10,000, but looks like you got it in the back of Duane Reade.

 

Calvin Klein

 

 

Oh, Raf. There’s literally nothing he could do at this point that would make us angry, because every collection he sends down the runway is as close to perfect as it gets. After presenting a men’s collection for his namesake label earlier in the week that revolved around Christiane F. and Cookie Mueller’s Drugs, Simons presented a classic Calvin Klein collection that took all of his quirky eccentricities and somehow made them look, well, classic as fuck. I mean, who else could send swimming caps and sweatshirt-less hoodies down the runway, without looking like he’s trying to be avant-garde? No one. And that’s part of his charm. Unlike a lot of of designers who, when they take over a storied brand, start to lose their individual voice, Raf’s seems to get only louder with each season, and we can’t wait to see what happens next.

 

Jeremy Scott

 

 

We have to be honest when we say that we love Moschino, but have never really caught the Jeremy Scott bug. That is, until this season, where Scott went full-on Fifth Element, with futuristic space-inspired looks. For those of you that don’t know, Jean Paul Gaultier did the costumes for The Fifth Element, and it’s basically a 2-hour fashion orgasm. So, when Scott sent Gigi Hadid down the runway in a silver overall dress, pink crop-top and matching pink LeeLoo-inspired wig – well, we almost stood up to give him immediate applause. The rest of the collection was equally amazing, with all of it feeling retro-futuristic without trying too hard. The key was nothing felt too much like a costume, just the uniform for a school in 2064.

 

Honorable Mentions

Telfar

 

 

This was Telfar Clemons’ second collection since winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, and though it was impeccable, it was the presentation that really kicked ass. Following the runway show that saw Clemons’ solidify his gender neutral ’70s aesthetic, singer/performer Dev Hynes, rapper Ian Isiah, Kelela, Oyinda, 070 Shake and Kelsey Lu took the stage for an intimate performance. The result was emotional yet understated, just like the collection itself.

 

Gauntlett Cheng

 

 

We’re big fans of Esther Gauntlett and Jenny Cheng’s self-aware brand that makes clothes for cool girls all over the world. This season, the duo went Westminster – or maybe Paris Hilton circa 2002. Either way, we were obsessed with the high fashion pieces they presented on models and a group of pups.

 

All photos courtesy of Vogue Runway

Raf Simons Unveils Young Americana-Inspired Fall 17 Campaign for Calvin Klein

Photography: Willy Vanderperre for Calvin Klein.

Today Raf Simons unveiled the Ready-to-Wear campaign for his Fall 17 collection, his first since taking over as Creative Director of Calvin Klein several months ago. When this line made its debut in February at New York Fashion Week, it wowed critics and audiences alike, earning him both Menswear and Womenswear Designer of the Year at the 2017 CFDA Awards. Now, we get to see the iconic clothes from that collection modeled on a desert highway as they prepare to hit retailers across the globe.

The campaign was shot by frequent Simons collaborator Willy Vanderperre, and includes in the background billboard images from his ‘American Classics’ campaign, a meta touch to Simons consisently boundary pushing ideas about what fashion imagery should look like. He’s fresh off his much-anticipated and pleasantly-received New York Men’s Week show for his own private label, where he presented Blade Runner-influenced garments on a wet, neon-lit street on the Lower East Side.

Simons will debut his second collection for Calvin Klein very soon, at New York Fashion Week in September.

 

The Men of ‘Moonlight’ Star in New Calvin Klein Underwear Campaign

Lead Photo: @CalvinKlein via Instagram

Fresh off their historic, surprise Best Picture win last night, the men of Moonlight have started off their new lives as Oscar darlings by stripping down to their skivvies for Raf Simons’ new underwear campaign for Calvin Klein. Even if they hadn’t taken home film’s biggest award, after seeing these photos, we would have decidedly declared this week belonging to them. Trevante Rhodes, Alex Hibbert, Ashton Sanders, and Best Supporting Actor winner Mahershala Ali look fabulous in the new images, shot by Willy Vanderperre. Take a look below:

Raf Simons Unveils Andy Warhol and Richard Prince Inspired Campaign

All photography by Willy Vandeperre.

Just days ahead of his NYFW debut as Creative Director of Calvin Klein, Raf Simons has dropped a new ad campaign set in front of the iconic artwork of visionaries including Andy Warhol, Richard Prince, and Sterling Ruby.

The campaign is titled ‘American Classics’ and photographed by Willy Vandeperre, with styling by Olivier Rizzo. On CalvinKlein.com, the designer dissects the meaning behind each model(s) paired with each painting. Over Instagram, the label explained that the campaign is “a celebration of Calvin Klein’s iconic underwear and jeans; acknowledging their status as Pop and showing them in the world of art.”

Check out Simons’ art-inspired new campaign in the following slides.

The Dish and Dispatch from Milan Fashion Week

Models backstage at Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2015. Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com

Gucci was the talk of Milan; it was intended to be Frida Giannini‘s last collection (her departure was announced last December; she has been creative director since 2006). Last week it emerged that she was given a quick boot, and her deputy, Alessandro Michele, charged with producing a new collection in the space of a week. Actually, it was very Frida — feminine and romantic, with dashes of color, contrasting with the somber collections everyone else sent down the runway (this year’s predominant palate: gray). The puzzle was just how much Alessandro Michele inherited, and how much he altered.

The rumor is that Riccardo Tisci will take over just as soon as his contract with Givenchy is up (in about a year), while Alessandro steers the ship in the interval. For what it’s worth, I really loved the collection, but there will nothing there for GQ, Details, Esquire — it’s definitely not what Americans would consider men’s fashion. It was as if all the cute boys raided their girlfriend’s closets.

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Outwardly, Prada appeared to play it safe, drawing on military uniforms in a collection that included women as well as men. The silhouettes were tight and geometric, lots of double-breasted jackets, very tailored, and naval. Epaulets on the shoulders of some of the men’s jackets were echoed in the bows on the shoulders of the women’s dresses. Many of the fabrics were lightweight — nylon jackets, gray mohair sweaters. I loved it, but as usual you would have to be super skinny to get away with it. You’ve got eight months left to diet.

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Military motifs showed up also in Italo Zucchelli‘s F/W collection for Calvin Klein, but this time with a futuristic patina that summoned Blade Runner–an army of sharply silhouetted models in every shade of grey. In fact Zucchelli was more inspired by film noir than sci-fi, but it’s that combination of brooding masculinity and dystopia that makes this collection come to life. Double-breasted coats, parkas, black vinyl jeans, and cropped sweater and bomber jackets, often embossed with animal prints, felt signature Calvin Klein without feeling in any way repetitive.

12 Fashion Stories You Need To Read Now

It’s campaign season. Let’s discuss.

1. Moschino Amputates Sasha Luss

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When I hear about photoshop mishaps concerning magazine covers or ad campaigns all of which are staked on amounts of money beyond my meager imagination, I can only think one thing. Who let this happen? It’s so obvious that it will be called out, and so, IMHO, ‘twould be better to let bodies be real and avoid the outpouring of critique that is then inevitable. But sometimes, it’s not even about body image. As is the case in Moschino’s otherwise pretty cool new ad campaign, shot by Steven Meisel and starring the very hip Anna Ewers, Hollie-May Saker, and a mysteriously one-legged Sasha Luss. Whatever happened to your leg, Sasha, we hope it was painless and you’re back on two feet now…and all that.

2. Biebs for CK (#hiscalvins) 

biebs

Justin Bieber may skateboard in sweater dresses and frequently rock harem pants, but no matter what trend he tries, he stays loyal to his Calvins, because, duh. The now-20 year old drops trou (well, rocks ’em extra low-rise) to show off that infamous waistband in a series of also photoshopped pics for his starring role in the new campaign. He appears to have received an, um, upgrade, in definition, as well as some extra pubes. Cool.

3. And…in the Category of People Who Hang Out With Biebs, We Have Kylie Jenner on the Cover of Cosmo

kylie

All by herself. So there Kendall. And Kim. And Khloe. She’s sporting hyper-ombre’d hair (grey?), a trend I didn’t know was still happening, and discusses her lips (a very popular topic of conversation in this world) stating that surgery is not something she “desires” right now, and she has simply learned to kontour. Oh, to be a Kardashian.

4. Alexa’s Music Video Debut–Inspired by Denim

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Alexa Chung’s music video debut, directed by Gia Coppola, and inspired by her upcoming collaboration with AG, features the leggy Brit enthusiastically performing a karaoke rendition of her song “Blue Denim” (how meta) to an audience of bored party guests. She’s got on a little denim dress and white skimmers and looks cool (obviously) in spite of her disinterested friends (and boyfriend?). I would like the dress, please.

5. Bloggers Go Print on Lucky’s Latest Cover

lucky cover

Chiara Ferragni of The Blonde Salad, Nicole Warne of Gary Pepper Girl, and Zanita Whittington of Zanita.com.au have just become the first bloggers to grace the cover of a major mag. It’s no surprise that it’s Lucky being that Editor-in-Chief, Eva Chen, is known for pioneering the rocky road that is the relationship between print and digital. This is sure to be a cover that stirs up opinions.

6. This is Not the Best Revenge

C. Wonder, awkwardly founded by Chris Burch after his divorce from ex-wife Tory, and said to be an act of revenge, will close its last 11 stores due to the competitive nature of the industry. The brand’s social media accounts are already gone. Burch, however, will be okay. He recently bought an island in Indonesia.

7. Jared Leto’s Abs Might Make You Want a Fanny Pack

leto

Here is an example of ombre that I have no sass about. You do you, Jared Leto, you shirtless, legging-ed “hip pack” hawker. I’d also like to note that this seems very appropriate to Jordan Catalano-era fashion too.  Some celebs make fragrances, Leto has this. 

8. The Show Will Go On at Schiaparelli

In spite of Marco Zanini’s recent exist and the house of Schiaparelli’s current creative director-less-ness, the show will go on, on January 26th for Paris Couture Week.

9. The Jagger Sisters Team Up for Sonia Rykiel

rykiel

The beautiful offspring of Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall, sisters Georgia May and Elizabeth Jagger co-star in Sonia Rykiel’s new ad campaign shot by Juergen Teller. The two also both walked in the September runway show. This casting represents a cross-section of those we’re seeing make headlines–the celebrity/model/celebrity-by-association hybrid. Either way, the girls have their father’s rockstar panache.

10. Marc Kerimzadeh Joins the CFDA as Editorial and Communications Director

The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute Benefit celebrating ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: Savage Beauty Exhibition - InsidePhoto: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

Kerimzadeh formerly worked at WWD and has fifteen years of fashion coverage experience. He will help the CFDA develop their editorial voice and brand.

11. Cara Delevingne: Renaissance Woman

 

Another woman whose name requires many “///” Ms. Delevingne can now add “contributing editor” to her supermodel/actress/designer/set-of-eyebrows C.V.

12. Jourdan Dunn Makes History

jourdan dunn

Jourdan Dunn made history this month as the first Black solo cover model for Vogue UK in 12 years. She’s wearing a beautiful Prada dress and Patrick Demarchelier took the pics. The last woman to do so was Naomi Campbell in 2002.

Cozy Up to the Season’s Softest, Fuzziest, Furriest Sweaters

remilamandetimcoppens
Jackson O’kief (Re:Quest) wears sweater by Tim Coppens, boxer briefs by Calvin Klein.

remilamandecalvinklein
Ian Sheridan (New York Model Management) wears sweater by Calvin Klein.

remilamandefendi

Fielding Lewis (New York Model Management) wears sweater by Fendi.

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Jackson wears sweater by Givenchy.

remilamandeburberry
Ian wears sweater by Burberry.

Photographed by Rémi Lamandé in NYC
Styled by Alyssa Shapiro

Nothing Gets Between a Moss and Her Calvins

Kate Moss’s little sister Lottie is all of 16, and here she is repping for Calvin Klein as part of MyTheresa’s Re-Issue Project. Like Kate before her, this Moss is clad in CK jeans, logo sports bras, sweatshirts, and tees for the retailer, with photos by Michael Avedon (yes, he is related to Richard — his grandfather).

See more of the cute Moss in Calvin updated classics below, and get shopping on July 16.

Calvin Klein Lottie Moss 1 Vogue 14July14 Calvin Klein Jeans X Mytheresa Calvin-Klein-2 Calvin Klein Jeans X Mytheresa Calvin-Klein-3 Calvin Klein Jeans X Mytheresa Calvin-Klein-4 Calvin Klein Jeans X Mytheresa Calvin-Klein-5 Calvin Klein Jeans X Mytheresa Calvin-Klein-6 Calvin Klein Jeans X Mytheresa Calvin-Klein-7 Calvin Klein Jeans X Mytheresa

 

All photos: Lottie Moss by Michael Avedon for Calvin Klein/MyTheresa Re-Issue Project

 

Visual Xanax: Collecting Smiles

May your Monday be cheery.

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Images: Drew Barrymore photographed for Arena UK, July 1994; Police eyewear campaign image; Karen Elson photographed by Irving Penn for Vogue Italia, March 1997; Christy Turlington and Kate Moss backstage in the ’90s; Linda Evangelista photographed by Peter Lindbergh for Vogue Italia, June 1990; Claudia Schiffer for Chanel, 1992; Kate Moss for Calvin Klein, 1992

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