Runway Rundown: All The Best From Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear, Resort and Fall ’18 Couture

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Valentino Fall ’18 Couture

 

A lot has happened on the runway over the last few weeks. There was Paris Couture Week; before that, some designers showed their Spring ’19 collections; and in between all of those, there was Resort (which we don’t usually care for, but this season had one great moment). So, we don’t blame you if you’ve missed some things. And because we love you, we’re going to be your fashion fairy godmothers, and round up everything you need to see if you haven’t already (and if you have, all of the amazing things you should look at again). Below, our favorite runway moments — or, as we like to call them, the only ones worth mentioning.

 

Spring ’19 Ready-to-Wear:

Spring can be really boring. I mean, florals, for Spring? Groundbreaking. No, but seriously, it can really hard to re-invent the wheel when that wheel is a limited range of flowing skirts, mini dresses and caftans. That’s why our favorite brands threw out seasonal rules altogether and did things like patent leather and hoodies.

 

Alyx

 

For Matthew Williamson’s first ever runway show for his four-year-old brand Alyx (or, as its named now, 1017 Alyx 9SM for Williamson’s birthday and the location of his first studio at 9 Saint Marks), the designer went all out. Instead of debuting a ton of cliche Spring pieces, like bathing suits and floral dresses, the collection looked almost as if it could’ve been for Fall. With a post-apocalyptic vibe perfect for our current political climate, Willliamson’s pieces looked like a uniform for, albeit incredibly fashionable, anti-fascist soldiers. Sign me up.

 

Vetements

 

VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019 – WATCH THE OFFICIAL VIDEO – LINK IN THE PROFILE

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VETEMENTS SPRING-SUMMER 2019

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For fashion world darling Demna Gvasalia’s turn on the runway, the designer paid homage to his home country, Georgia. Gvasalia casted the show with all Georgian teenagers, and took the opportunity to teach fashion insiders about the current political turmoil happening in the region. In fact, each piece from the collection comes with a giant bar code, that once scanned with your iPhone, will open an app that features facts about the country. And as much as I want to hate Vetements, I wish I could afford to pay $1,000 for a sweatshirt.

 

Kenzo

 

Prints, prints, prints. #KENZOSS19

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Kenzo S/S ’19 was all about prints. Gingham, checks, polka-dots, snakeskin — you name it, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon designed it, and styled it together. The whole maximalist, should-be-clashing-but-instead-looks amazing thing has always been Kenzo’s vibe, but each season Lim and Leon seem to do it better and better. After last year’s Spring collection, I really thought the brand had reached their peak, but this season even makes me want to wear color.

 


 

Resort:

Honestly, I shouldn’t have even included Resort on this list, since it’s really not a list – it’s just Miu Miu.

 

Miu Miu

 

If Miu Miu’s Resort ’19 collection was bad, it truly wouldn’t have even mattered. With a casting like the one they had at The Regina Hotel in Paris last week, including Rowan Blanchard, Kaia Gerber, Uma Thurman, Chloe Sevigny and Naomi Campbell, no one would have even noticed the clothes. But we did, because the collection was perfect. Kind of preppy, but with a race car driver-meets-Valley of the Dolls-meets-Maui sort of look, the Miu Miu collection was what Miuccia Prada still does best, even after all these years: it was fun, it was free, and somehow, between all the clashing prints and furry heels, it was still subtle.

 


 

Fall ’18 Couture:

Couture is all about fantasy; it’s about staring at beautiful clothes you desperately want but have absolutely nowhere to wear them to. When it came to this year’s Couture Week, our favorite designers didn’t let us down, delivering some of the dreamiest collections we’ve ever seen grace the runway. I mean, Kaia Gerber at Valentino. Enough said. But don’t worry, we’ll say more anyway.

 

Chanel

 

For his Fall ’18 Chanel couture show, Karl Lagerfeld paid homage to Paris. Honestly, everything the guy does is good, and the fact that he’s still able to send tweed two-pieces down the runway, and make them look good — well, that alone, proves he’s a genius. In addition to his love of Paris, the designer built this collection around what he calls the “high profile” — long skirts that unzip to show thigh-bearing minis underneath. “You can wear it zipped down when you visit your banker, no?” he told Vogue. “And zipped up when you see your lover after!”

 

Valentino

 

At this point, there’s no way you haven’t seen at least one photo from the Valentino couture show. Images of Kaia Gerber in her amazing beehive have literally been flooding the internet. But for once, the talk is true and all the hype is worth it. The Valentino collection was the MVP of Couture Week — and maybe all of 2018. Obviously, Pat McGrath and Guido Palau killed it with the beauty; but the collection itself was completely breathtaking. I mean, the models looked like actual angels floating down the runway in their billowy gowns and floral headdresses.

 

Fendi

 

 

Fendi always knows what they’re doing. For their couture collection, the brand took a step back from the logomania that’s taken over their last few seasons, and created a ’60s-inspired ode to fur. While a lot of the industry has vowed to go fur free, Lagerfeld has doubled down with Fendi. Though the collection included bits of actual fur, it was more about the ways in which he treated other fabrics that created a sort of gaudy (but in a good way), glam feel that I totally could’ve imaged Liz Taylor or Anne Welles in.

 

Margiela

 

Discover highlights from our Autumn-Winter 2018 ‘Artisanal’ Collection designed by @jgalliano: The nomadic idea of taking life on the road is conveyed in abundant layering where garments interweave and mutate. #maisonmargiela #artisanal #artisanalartistry – Music: “Unchained Melody” Written By: Alex North & Hy Zaret Courtesy Unchained Melody Publishing LLC – Black Saturn, Nicholas Hill, Luciano Ugo Rossi, Glenn Herweijer; Ben Sumner. KPM Music When The Clock Stops, Nikky French. KPM Music Breakacuda,Benjamin Medcalf. Anger Music Circus Caravan MYMA. Justement Music Flight Remembered, Nicholas Hill, Glen Herweijer, Ben Sumner. KPM Music The Arrival, David James Caton, Harry Valentine. Anger Music Etude in e major, Frederic Chopin, Tolga Kashif, KPM Music Warhammer, Darren Mudge. Anger Music Arrangement : Jeremy Healy

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Galliano went all Fifth Element for his latest Margiela Artisanal collection (he’s too cool for couture, natch). Using VR headsets and iPhones as accessories, the designer sent a retro-futuristic, technology-obsessed collection down the runway. And hey, since people are already attached to their phones, physically adhering them to our outfits seems like a natural next step. That, or we’re going to war with aliens and Galliano is designing the outfits.

 

Viktor and Rolf

 

To celebrate their 25 years together, Viktor & Rolf decided to take 25 of the brand’s most iconic looks, and update them for their Fall ’18 couture collection. That update meant turning everything white and covering them in Swarovski crystals. Though I’ve always been a fan of Viktor & Rolf, there’s literally nothing more perfect than the bed dresses they originally created for their Fall ’05 collection — or, at least, I thought, until I saw this season’s iteration, complete with white bedazzled pillows and a down evening dress. Sigh. This is what dreams are made of.

 

Photos & Video: Instagram

alexa BlackBook: IKEA Fever

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IKEA has long been a staple for both bargain hunters and streamline-design lovers. Now, fashion kings like Virgil Abloh (just named Louis Vuitton’s new menswear designer) are repurposing the store’s iconic blue-and-yellow logo on inventive streetwear. 
 In honor of the Swedish fever, we asked three creatives for their takes on Ikea’s iconic “Frakta” bag.

 

Brooklyn garden whiz Brook Klausing recycled his “Frakta” bag as a pretty planter.

 

Brook Klausing, a garden designer and owner of Brooklyn’s Brook Landscape, elected to use his “Frakta” bag as a flower planter, putting his own spin on eco-upscaling. “We drew inspiration from fast fashion and fast furniture to create our own version: fast foliage,” he tells Alexa.

 

LA artist Neil Raitt adorned the trusty tote with his own palm print.

 

Los Angeles-based artist Neil Raitt (who points to Bob Ross’ kitschy 1980s TV program “The Joy of Painting” as an inspiration for his repetitive landscapes — on exhibit at LA’s Anat Ebgi gallery and this year’s NYC Armory Show) also took a crack at the big blue bag. He inlaid a palm-tree print, which he originally created in 2016 for an exhibition at Mon Chéri gallery in Brussels, to create a portable piece of art.

“When you look at an Ikea bag, with its blue plastic and yellow lettering, it’s immediately recognizable,” he says. “So, I wanted to bring in something equally accessible, like a palm tree.”

 

Interior designer Ryan Korban stitched a kitschy pillow — complete with Ikea trim.

 

And finally, New York-based interior designer Ryan Korban (who’s created eye-catching spaces for all manner of high-end fashion labels, including Alexander Wang’s NYC flagship and Balenciaga stores across the globe) dreamed up a DIY Ikea throw pillow. It’s the perfect spot to rest your head after putting together all that furniture.

 

Photos by Lizzy Snaps Sullivan; Tamara Beckwith; Courtesy of Neil Raitt and Anat Ebgi.

 

Balenciaga’s New Menswear Show Featured Actual Dads Walking With Their Kids

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@Balenciaga on Instagram

Today, Demna Gvasalia unveiled his third menswear collection for Balenciaga since taking over the famed brand two seasons ago. In the past, we’ve seen everything from big, boxy coats to high fashion Bernie Sanders – now, Gvasalia is giving us a new twist of haute couture: dad vibes, worn on the shoulders of real dads with their real kids.

“I thought it was so beautiful to see a young man with a child and it’s so hopeful and so positive,” Gvasalia told Dazed. “There was this hopefulness actually that drove through the whole season, the kids represented that hope.”

Opting out of the now-expected uber cool athletic streetwear seen on so many mens’ runways, Gvasalia directed his design concepts toward the banal. The first model wore a sports coat and jeans – otherwise wore cords, polos, and patterned dad shirts. There were leather bags made to look like grocery bags, dry cleaning bags draped like capes, and pants with shorts superimposed over them.

What’s more, the show took place outdoors in a forest in the Bois de Boulogne in Paris, a park infamous for its high volume of gay cruising. The runway stretched along a carpet with seats on either side, so long it you almost could not see the end of it.

Take a look at some of our favorite looks below, then head to Balenciaga’s site to watch the entire show:

Bernie Sanders Chuckles in Response to Balenciaga’s ‘Feel the Bern’ Show

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Photo via @Balenciaga on Instagram

Following Demna Gvasalia’s “Feel the Bern”-inspired Fall 2017 menswear show in Paris, Our Lord and Savior Bernie Sanders has finally deigned to respond to the design dedication.

“I want to ask you, as a closing question, about something that is admittedly rather frivolous,” said CNN anchor Jake Tapper in a recent interview. “I want to ask you about this bizarre sighting at Paris Fashion Week from Balenciaga. Take a look – these are a number of people – models on the runway – in Bernie clothes. Did you ever think that you would become a fashion icon?

“Of my many attributes, being a great dresser or a fashion maven is not one of them,” Sanders chuckled in response, to which Tapper proclaimed “Well, apparently there’s a designer out there who begs to differ.”

Here’s the video clip:

Take a look at Gvasalia’s political runway show (which was styled with oversized pins and loose ties a la Sanders as well) below:

Steal This Look: The Foxy Flapper

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We know what’s been on your mind: you want to look like a fennec fox flapper girl rocking twenties partier meets Demna Gvasalia meets woodland creature vibes. But you don’t have the know-how or the statement pieces to implement your vision. Fear no more: we’ve got the advice and shopping links to let you implement all your foxiest dreams.

The Statement Glitzy Jacket.

This entire look is based off of three adjectives: loud, glittering, and over-the-top. It all comes down to a wild, statement jacket – the centerpiece of this look. While it’s up to you to find the right version for your own aesthetic, we’re obsessed with the drag queen, club kid extravagance of BCALLA’s designs, which have been worn by everyone from Gaga to Pearl. bcalla_fw16_by_michael_burk_02 bcalla_ss16_4

 

Michael Burk for BCALLA.

The Tall, Tight Boot.

To pair with your big jacket, you’ll need some slender, sleek boots a la Balenciaga Spring ’17. These Vetements ones are a huge crush of ours, as are these velvet Balenciaga dream thigh-warmers.

 

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The look is fairly simple, all things considered. If you have the resources, pair your ensemble with a sensible neck ruff, thick blonde moustache, and the genetics of a Fennec Fox. Happy strutting!

 

Insta-Critic: Channeling the 1950s at Balenciaga, Alexander Wang-Style

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Against a carpet of black-and-white window pane checks, Alexander Wang sent out clothes that married Balenciaga’s rigorous penchant for form with his own downtown sensibilities. From a distance, there was a Hitchcock-heroine elegance: varsity letter sweaters, tweed pencil skirts, sleek updos, and leather gloves harkened back to a decidedly prim vision of the 1950s. But a closer look revealed the street elements close to Wang’s heart were there in the details. There was a touch of tough-girl menace in the styling: punky pearl cuffs climbed the ears and leather buckles served as collars and straps.

On the runway at #Balenciaga. #PFW

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A car coat gets a bold update

So glad sideburns are a thing at Balenciaga. I’ve got plenty of fodder for those. A photo posted by Man Repeller (@manrepeller) on

The bold beauty look at Balenciaga

Window pane redux at @balenciaga. -@tomokoogura #PFW #FW15 #BNYfieldnotes

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A new take on classic Balenciaga cuts and patterns

Lady Gaga at Balenciaga

Detalles en la colección #FW15 de @Balenciaga, presentada hoy durante #PFW. #Balenciaga

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Punk is in the details

The Return of the Blonde Supers + Sasha, Natalia, & Gemma’s Best Campaigns of All Time

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Sasha Pivovarova in the Saint Laurent resort 2014 campaign shot by Hedi Slimane

There was, embarrassingly, an actual squawk emitted from this editor when my eyes caught Gemma Ward stomping down the spring 2015 Prada runway in Miuccia‘s socks + high, high heels.

Gemma’s presence had been missed since 2008, when the ethereal, fair-haired beauty with the most delicate bone structure retired from the fashion industry altogether.

It’s easy to remember models in groups; Christy Turlington + Linda Evangelista + Naomi Campbell, Joan Smalls + Karlie Kloss + Cara Delevingne, and then there’s Gemma Ward + Natalia Vodianova + Sasha Pivovarova.

All three of the latter grouping are starring in major campaigns this season. For Gemma, it’s Prada photographed by Steven Meisel. For Sasha, it’s Balenciaga. Most recently announced is Natalia for Stella McCartney.
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Sasha Pivovarova for Alexander Wang‘s Balenciaga, shot by Steven Meisel and styled by Panos Yiapanis, whose work is new to the house.

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Natalia Vodianova shot by new photographed Harley Weir, and styled by Stella McCartney herself.

To celebrate their collective presence on the scene, we’ve rounded up their best campaigns of all time. 

GEMMA WARD

Photographed by David Sims for Balenciaga’s spring 2006 campaign (also featuring Caroline Trentini, Erin Wasson, Lily Donaldson, Raquel Zimmermann, Iselin Steiro, and Hana Soukupova):
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Starring in Dolce & Gabbana’s spring 2008 campaign photographed by Steven Klein:
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Ward also modeled for Dolce’s fall 2006 campaign, again lensed by Steven Miesel. Others appearing in the campaign included Coco Rocha, Lily Donaldson, Julia Stegner, and Iselin Steiro:
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NATALIA VODIANOVA

Stella McCartney fall/winter 2010 photographed by Mert & Marcus:
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Louis Vuitton spring 2008 photographed by Mert & Marcus:2891-800w

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Givenchy spring/summer 2010 photographed by Mert & Marcus, also featuring Mariacarla Boscono:15446-800w

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Chanel Beauty spring 2009 photographed by Dominique Issermann:5531-800w

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YSL spring 2010 styled by Joe McKenna and photographed by Inez & Vinoodh:16210-800w

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SASHA PIVOVAROVA

Giorgio Armani spring 2009 photographed by Mert & Marcus:
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John Galliano spring 2009:5488-800w

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Saint Laurent resort 2014 photographed by Hedi Slimane:170136-800w

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Longchamp spring 2009 also starring Kate Moss photographed by Mert & Marcus:3718-800w

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Chanel prefall 2009 photographed by Karl Lagerfeld:7174-800w

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Gisele Bündchen’s Undeniable Sex Appeal

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Balenciaga’s fall campaign shot by Steven Klein

Hello yaaasss this is so good! They cut all of Gisele’s hair and went for the super short shear for Balenciaga’s fall campaign, lensed by Steven Klein. Alex Wang likes her like that. (We do too.) This proves, if nothing else, that sex isn’t just about long, wavy locks. But then again those thigh high patent boots aren’t hurting.

Get a Whiff of Alexander Wang’s First Balenciaga Perfume

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Anna Ewers styled by Vanessa Traina Snow and shot by Steven Klein. Photo courtesy of Balenciaga.

Alexander Wang previewed his first fragrance for Balenciaga during the resort preview on Thursday. B Balenciaga is at once fresh and woody, with notes of lily of the valley, violet green leaves, edamame, and cedar and cashmeran wood. “I’ve always been attracted to scents with strong green notes, and we also added a darker woody flair to it,” Wang told WWD.

The bottle is reminiscent of the marble flooring in Cristobal Balenciaga’s original Paris salon, also calling to mind the marble patterns Wang incorporated into his first collection for the house. Architectural, the bottle also represents well his designs for the house.

B joins two other current Balenciaga fragrances; Florabotanica and Rosabotanica, on sale come October at Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, and select Sephora locations.