Is it Fall Yet? Our Favorite NYFW Collections We Can’t Wait to Wear

Alexander Wang F/W ’18

 

Is it just us or is fall fashion just so much better than spring? That was definitely the case at the NYFW FW18 shows the past two weeks. And so while most New Yorkers might be pining for spring sunshine throughout this temperamental (but mostly cold) Northeast winter, we find ourselves counting down the days until September finally returns, and we can look cute again.

From Matrix-inspired office wear at Alexander Wang to ’80s power suits at Marc Jacobs and ’00s-era Paris Hilton puppy vibes at Gauntlett Cheng, we’ve compiled here our favorite Fashion Week moments – plus two honorable mentions because, well, we just couldn’t bear to narrow it down.

 

Alexander Wang

 

 

We’ve loved Alexander Wang since he first debuted his part minimalist, part rock ‘n’ roll It-girl uniforms; but we have to say, the last few seasons have left us with a never-ending #WANGOVER. This season, though, the San Fransisco born designer channeled The Matrix-meets-The Office, delivering a range of post-apocalyptic professional wear that we want every piece of – especially, the fur-lined ’90s CK-inspired undies.

 

Marc Jacobs

 

 

Marc Jacobs is basically the Alexander Wang of the late ’90s. So, needless to say, we’re giant fans. But much like last season’s awful #WANGOVER, Marc has fallen off a bit the last few years. I mean, remember the dreadlocks fiasco? Still, it seams Jacobs got the memo (or finally found it again), and this season felt like a return to form. Part ’80s power suit, part goth noir, the Marc Jacobs FW18 collection felt like Bianca Jagger in her white suit days, if she had Grace Jones’ attitude and Siouxsie’s sense of color. What more could you possibly as for?

 

Eckhaus Latta

 

 

One of fashion’s favorite new brands, Eckhaus Latta has mastered minimalism in its purest form. For their FW18 collection, designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta built upon the easy going feel of their last few seasons, but experimented more with shape and color than they ever have before. While the knits and sheer dresses fit right into the Eckhaus Latta playbook, bright yellow flowy fabrics were a new look for the brand. Overall, the collection was bold but understated, yet what Eckhaus Latta does best isn’t actually their clothes. Season after season, and despite its growing popularity, the brand remains dedicated to its outsider ethos. And did we mention their casting always rules? This season saw a diverse runway filled with New York City favorites, including model Paloma Elsesser and indie rock royalty Coco Gordon-Moore.

 

Tom Ford

 

 

Nobody does sleek and sexy like Tom Ford. This season, the designer went all in with leopard print, mixing loud colors with the even louder print in all different sizes from head-to-toe. Not only did each look feel totally timeless, you’ve got to give it to someone who can make lime green or bright red leopard print look not only classy, but cool.

 

Chromat

 

 

Another one of the fashion industry’s favorite young designers, Becca McCharen-Tran built Chromat to empower women of all shapes, sizes and colors. While most brands have embraced a long overdue push for diversity on the runway (not looking at you, Stefano Gabbana), Chromat also delivers it IRL. With a focus on emerging technology and body positivity, the label pushes boundaries and challenges the fashion status quo. For her latest collection, McCharen stuck with oranges and neons, accessorizing each look with Flaming Hot Cheeto bags tied to models’ pants and in their hands. Rapper Slay Rizz finished out the show with a killer performance in an orange two-piece by Chromat, and even though we didn’t get any cheese puffs to go, we were sold.

 

Dion Lee

 

 

Since launching his eponymous label in 2009, Australian designer Dion Lee has consistently delivered classic yet forward-thinking clothing, with his FW18 collection serving as further proof of his talent. Outfitting traditional sportswear looks with architectural bra-tops, it seems Lee also watched The Matrix and The Office before designing his collection. But unlike Wang’s, the Dion Lee range felt modern, not futuristic – the Neo influence was subtle. Lee also brought in more feminine elements, juxtaposing the structured suits and tops with flowy skirts.

 

Gypsy Sport

 

 

Ever since winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2015, Rio Uribe has been making waves with his brand Gypsy Sport. Inspired by New York City, Uribe turned heads last year when he decided to present his Spring collection in Paris. But for FW18, Uribe returned to the city, thank god. Other than that, though, this was an all new Gypsy Sport. Over the last few years, the brand has become recognizable for their upcycled jerseys and I <3 NY logo tees, with the Gypsy Sport name in place of the heart. This season, Uribe ditched the streetwear element, presenting a romantic collection filled with suits and gothic ruffles, as well as a few sustainable aluminum looks. Of course, the designer stuck to his habit of using friends and members of the LGBTQ community as models, including 10-year-old activist and drag star Desmond is Amazing, who stole the show (and probably all of Fashion Week). Known for his willingness to experiment, it’s hard to tell whether this collection was a one-off, or the evolution of the brand. Either way, it doesn’t really matter, because whatever Gypsy Sport does is really, really good.

 

Adam Selman

 

 

Another CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund alum, Adam Selman won Fashion Week in our book. The FW18 collection was kinky, it was campy, it was part John Waters, part new wave, it was punk as fuck. Featuring a collaboration with artist Cheyco Leidmann, who created the surrealist prints Selman used on dresses and shirts, the range was bold and colorful, mixing prints, patterns and styles in an ode to photographer Ypsitylla Von Nazareth. In addition to the outfits, Selman also debuted his latest collection for sunglasses brand Le Specs. If you haven’t already been spotting his metallic cat-eyes for the last few years, get ready – this season’s heart-adorned versions are about to be everywhere. We want ours now.

 

Vaquera

 

 

Most people had never heard of New York City brand Vaquera before last NYFW, when they debuted a dress made only of blue and gold credit cards. For some reason, the look ended up on every news outlet, even though it was one of the weakest of the show. (We’re not saying we didn’t like it – we did.) What Vaquera does best is their more subtle work. This season, the designers seemed to realize that as well, presenting a range of deconstructed pieces that were delicate and cool. The highlights: an oversized blazer dress, cropped suit and crazy snakeskin skirt that all looked like they were slightly unfinished, but in reality, took forever to make. And isn’t that the best stuff anyway? The kind that costs, like, $10,000, but looks like you got it in the back of Duane Reade.

 

Calvin Klein

 

 

Oh, Raf. There’s literally nothing he could do at this point that would make us angry, because every collection he sends down the runway is as close to perfect as it gets. After presenting a men’s collection for his namesake label earlier in the week that revolved around Christiane F. and Cookie Mueller’s Drugs, Simons presented a classic Calvin Klein collection that took all of his quirky eccentricities and somehow made them look, well, classic as fuck. I mean, who else could send swimming caps and sweatshirt-less hoodies down the runway, without looking like he’s trying to be avant-garde? No one. And that’s part of his charm. Unlike a lot of of designers who, when they take over a storied brand, start to lose their individual voice, Raf’s seems to get only louder with each season, and we can’t wait to see what happens next.

 

Jeremy Scott

 

 

We have to be honest when we say that we love Moschino, but have never really caught the Jeremy Scott bug. That is, until this season, where Scott went full-on Fifth Element, with futuristic space-inspired looks. For those of you that don’t know, Jean Paul Gaultier did the costumes for The Fifth Element, and it’s basically a 2-hour fashion orgasm. So, when Scott sent Gigi Hadid down the runway in a silver overall dress, pink crop-top and matching pink LeeLoo-inspired wig – well, we almost stood up to give him immediate applause. The rest of the collection was equally amazing, with all of it feeling retro-futuristic without trying too hard. The key was nothing felt too much like a costume, just the uniform for a school in 2064.

 

Honorable Mentions

Telfar

 

 

This was Telfar Clemons’ second collection since winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, and though it was impeccable, it was the presentation that really kicked ass. Following the runway show that saw Clemons’ solidify his gender neutral ’70s aesthetic, singer/performer Dev Hynes, rapper Ian Isiah, Kelela, Oyinda, 070 Shake and Kelsey Lu took the stage for an intimate performance. The result was emotional yet understated, just like the collection itself.

 

Gauntlett Cheng

 

 

We’re big fans of Esther Gauntlett and Jenny Cheng’s self-aware brand that makes clothes for cool girls all over the world. This season, the duo went Westminster – or maybe Paris Hilton circa 2002. Either way, we were obsessed with the high fashion pieces they presented on models and a group of pups.

 

All photos courtesy of Vogue Runway

Insta-Critic: Adam Selman’s Girl Gang in Gingham

For his Fall/Winter 2015 collection, Adam Selman was inspired by the 1974 John Waters film, “Female Trouble.” True to his inspiration, Selman sent out his models on a set that looked more schoolyard than catwalk. In addition to the beehives, ankle socks and heels lent saucy styling to the clothes, which playfully mixed gingham prints, bold colors, and sweet bow appliques.

Beehives for days

@adamselman WERKING after his #FW15 show. #nyfw A photo posted by V Magazine (@vmagazine) on

Adam Selman takes the stage after his show

@iiswhoiis SAYS HI. @adamselman

A photo posted by V Magazine (@vmagazine) on

Hey Kesha

6 Special Moments from #NYFW Day 2: White Chicks, RiRi, and Karlie Kloss

Photo by Kevin Tachman via @voguemagazine on Instagram

Day two! The catch up continues. From Jason Wu to Zimmermann to Suno, we hit the very hot (and steamy) concrete in spades today. Sweaty dresses, expensive cabs, and a collective 14 (is that all?) caffeinated beverages later, we’re home and onto our second shift–writing about all of it. Here’s today’s recap–

(P.S. you can follow us through #NYFW on Instagram at @alyssashapiro, @sarajanenyc, and @emilyovaert. And of course, @blackbookmag.)

Emily: Best part of my day, hands down, was seeing artist Dustin Yellin take the runway in a Misha Nonoo dress.

Sara: With, like, a Starbucks cup, right? Haha.

Emily: Yes– it was like something out of White Chicks. He actually pulled off walking in heels pretty well and it was hilarious.

Alyssa: Dustin was definitely doing his best white girl impersonation. I don’t know if girlfriend can really walk in heels… I’m actually pretty sure he can’t even.

Sara: The instagram-induced NYFW envy is real. I was at Adam Selman, but as soon as I left and saw Instagrams with RiRi popping up I was sad-face-emoji. But actually, it was a million degrees inside and I couldn’t stay–I spent half the show contemplating my new (brilliant, IMHO) idea that show programs be printed on those cardstock fans on a stick, ya know? Wouldn’t that be amazing? No matter what I do, I’m sweating in a not-cute way in 10 minutes! Then I see girls decked out and I swear they don’t have sweat glands.

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Rihanna and Adam Selman photographed by Kevin Tachman

Alyssa: Is there a cute way to sweat, though? The show notes at Siki Im were printed on a decently thick stock of paper that worked wonderfully. So, thanks Siki!

Emily: Dude I’m with you.  I made the mistake of wearing a silk dress in the subway today and had awkward sweat stains in inconvenient places.

Alyssa: The trick is to not sit down.

Sara: I saw about 1489567345 girls in crop tops today and while I couldn’t–ever– I envied their nearer-to-nudity while I dreamt of taking off my already light dress… Alyssa–can we talk about the fact that you saw KARLIE today? (I am a social media creeper. Cool.)

Alyssa: I don’t know if I’m allowed to geek out this hard but pretty much every time I see Karlie Kloss on the runway my heart skips a beat. She walks like a panther. It’s so GOOD. She brings life to the clothes. I’m all about her.

Sara: I’ve heard people say she has an insane walk and I need to see it to understand it. Fingers crossed. ALSO, re. Karlie–she totes ‘grammed herself doing pilates this morning. Girl #werqs. I saw Lynn Yaeger at Suno, which by the way, might have been my favorite show yet. So that was my fangirl moment of the day.

Alyssa: Speaking of fanning out, I got to see Chris Gelinas at the CG presentation this morning. I pretty much adore him, and I adore his collection, and I really enjoy the thought and process that goes into creating the materials for the pieces. One of my favorite pieces from his presentation was a really gorgeous short sleeve jacket made of a nylon tweed with silk organza overlay, hand frayed, and with a machine embroidered graphic pattern. It’s so complex but it’s not fussy. The collection is actually pretty nonchalant for all its details. And I got three hugs out of him — a really lovely start to the day.

Sara: Fun fact: I was in this tiny, crowded room when he won his MADE for Peroni award last year and it was adorable. Yay CG. New designers are the shit. Also, while there weren’t any moms or babies in my life today, I did get a REALLY cool gold temporary tattoo (haha, that sentence) at the tents today.

Alyssa: Flash tats!

Emily:  I’ve seen those everywhere! Been meaning to get one after seeing it on Beyoncé’s Instagram. Today I snagged two gift bags with various beauty products. By the end of fashion week I’m hoping to have enough shampoo / conditioner to last me a year.

Alyssa: You’re more likely to get dry shampoo in those bags, because who has time to wash her hair, amiright?

Sara: Emily: jeal. Alyssa: I hit up a braid bar today and am now lying down in a tank top and a ridiculously fancy updo. Showers are for squares. I will probably fall asleep with it…soon.

Alyssa: Yeah right, girl! We have trend stories to do 🙂

Fashion Notes on Rihanna’s Video for Pour It Up

Have you watched Rihanna’s new music video for Pour It Up yet? Stylist supreme Mel Ottenberg took Rihanna to another level of naked while managing to pile on a remarkably high number of accessories per clothing item capita.

Watch, then we’ll break it down.

Note the jorts-cum-belted thong Rihanna so daringly wears in the video – paired with fur, because bare bum or not, no one wants Rihanna to get chilly. They are a true feat of tailoring.

Speaking of that fur, it probably smells like wet dog by now, considering its waterlogged travels to the throne. 

Fringe! Channeling Rodarte, are we?

Ever wonder where every Chanel belt a supermodel ever wore in the ‘90s/early ‘00s went? Found! (Also, jealous.)

Is Rihanna’s costume designer Adam Selman responsible for these red fingernail-ed gloves? How Margiela/Celine/something of him.

Big ups to Lynn Ban, the jewelry designer responsible for all the baubles Rihanna wears (with not much else) for Pour It Up. Chillin’ on ice! Rihanna isn’t the only fan – Madonna wore Lynn Ban in the Steven Klein shot Secret Project Revolution film, and Brit Brit sported some LB in Work Bitch. All that Lynn Ban is werking, bitch.