Just as there are comedians’ comedians, there are chefs’ chefs. These gourmands may toil in obscurity their entire lives or bask in the approbation of the public as well as their peers, but their manic focus on cuisine makes these concerns secondary. Such chefs are invariably their own worst critics, even as they deny anyone else the authority to criticize. And just such a chef, we hear, will next month drop his career-long invisibility cloak and cook, publicly, for more than two days straight somewhere in Chelsea.
Details are sketchy but the chef is widely beloved by some of the world’s greatest foodmongers, and many will be pitching in to help out during the marathon eatgasm. We have actually heard his name pronouned — reverently! — over the phone, but it absolutely defies transcription (especially from a trilingual informant talking to a unilingual reporter). It sounded something like “Nicholas Enslerfymarcorn”,” and we’re told he’s of Lebanese-Greek origin with a little Cape Verde thrown in. More as we learn more.