The Publican

Following some trends—again with the communal tables and charcuterie?—but leading in some others. From those behind Blackbird, Avec, and Violet Hour, expansive place wants you to ignore the volume and focus on simple, yet confident, menu. Chef de cuisine Brian Huston offers blood sausage dish, impressive oyster menu, Buchot mussels and sustainably-harvested fish. Dizzying 90-plus beer list.

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