Homaru Kantu is a graduate of Charlie Trotter’s and the pretension of his menu shows it. Extremely extreme, options start at $65 (one of which is Reeses Pieces) for five courses and end at $160 (with a peculiar doughnut soup), but Kantu is known for using artisanal ingredients, inventing kitschy new ways of serving food and varying his menu constantly. But is this the new wave of fine dining or the emperor’s new clothes?

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